Automotive Addicts Lounge V4 - Lube my pistons, baby

[clutch2]

[QUOTE=DPKiller;50688848]Clutch, do you do compustar stuff? I have fallen in love with the Pro T11.

But there is litterly NO good useful information on there website what computer works with it and what the blade dilly is.[/QUOTE]

Yea. BestBuy finally starting fuxin with Compustar about 3 years ago and it seems like 90% of installers are believers in it now over Viper, LOL.

The great part is it's all modular.

The 7200 brain is what you start with, it'll do remote start, door locks, trunk, light flash, horn honk, etc. All the normal stuff.

Then you choose a set of remotes. It can be the basic 1-way remotes, or you can buy the T11 remote pack. Doesn't matter. The remote packs come with the remotes and the appropriate antenna.

Then you can add extras... like if you hook up door and trunk triggers and turn on the "factory style alarm" option, it becomes an alarm as well! And you can buy the FT-ALARMIT kit and you'll then get a tilt/shock sensor and siren to add to it.

There's also the 7000 brain, which comes with the alarm components and the siren, plus a port for a backup battery.

If you want smartphone control, you get the DRONE module and plug it in, then subscribe.

There's a port for temp sensor if you have drone, and if your remote supports interior temp readings, the temp sensor will come with the remotes to be plugged in.

Then you have the BLADE. This thing is FUCKING KICKASS!!!!! It's the bypass module for if you have a chipped key in most cases, of course not Audis and cars you need to wrap a key with.. but still on those it'll usually tap into CAN wires and do things like controls door locks through data, etc. You can check make/model/year coverage on the Idatalink website for what's covered for each car. The Blade docks into the Compustar brain itself, then there's an extra plug that'll plug into the brain with the appropriate wires, which makes the prewires sooooo clean. Of course no chipped key means you don't need a Blade, so there's that.

The one big stipulation for compustar is to get the full use of it you'll need an Idatalink account to allow you access to flash the Blade module AND to program settings on the brain (otherwise there's the oldschool way of pressing buttons and counting flashes), and you'll also need the USB cable to allow you to connect the brain to the computer;
[url]https://www.amazon.com/Autopage-ADSUSB-Cable-Driver-Update/dp/B0035F0KZC[/url]

Favorite remote start systems out there by far currently.

Here's the prewire for a General Motors vehicle, 2008+ or so.
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234042/IMG_0176_zpsf2a511f0.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234042/IMG_0176_zpsf2a511f0.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

You'll notice that there's no thick wires being used. Compustar thought of everything. If the ignition system in the vehicle is low current (under 3 amps) you can use what they call the 'low current harness' which is all thin wires. GMs are 2 amp, and are a great candidate for this. Look at how nice it all twists together.. Awesome.

Then there's even their other accessory, the EZGO, which is a prox key module add on. It's just a little tag on your keychain and when you walk up to the car it unlocks, and when you walk away it locks. It works great, too.

[Del91]

Fuck that sounds amazing

[LineArc]

Guess the cylinder head

[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsrtvhqxrr.jpeg[/thumb]

It weighs as much as a small car

I can play with turbo inline 6's to serj :smile:

[FlandersNed]

[video=youtube;RKp1_HI6hvc]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RKp1_HI6hvc[/video]

This video has 835,000 views for some reason and it came out 2 weeks ago. Who is this guy, and what is he saying?

Also, I found the most epic car advert ever.

[video=youtube;Mo9sbt_e4Ic]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mo9sbt_e4Ic[/video]

[Lerlth]

[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;50689477]Guess the cylinder head

It weighs as much as a small car

I can play with turbo inline 6's to serj :smile:[/QUOTE]

Woh, is that for your [Retarded Cheap] truck you picked up not too long ago? The 2500, I think?

I've never really done any research on Cummins performance. Especially not head upgrades and stuff. What do people typically do besides power screw, turbo, and exhaust?

[LineArc]

Yeah, i'm doing a chocolate milk maker delete on it right now. I'm pretty sure a coolant passage got into an oil passage so im doing the headgasket and oil cooler.

Yup, pretty much throw an intake and exhaust, #0 fuel plate, pin the wastegate to 35 psi, and give it a little more pre boost fueling and you can hit 400hp and 1000ft/lbs on stock turbo.

Headstuds, 100hp injectors, 4000rpm governer springs, and a 68mm can get to close to 500-600hp and 1200ft/lbs i think

[editline]11th July 2016[/editline]

They're pretty robust mills and easy to make power with. 98 12v is the best year, the 24v is 98.5-2002 and is another league, harder to make power with, but more streetable, not as reliable

[editline]11th July 2016[/editline]

[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsjkoya5ts.jpeg[/thumb] i may be pickin this unit up as a trade for me other truck

[Gulen]

[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;50689477]Guess the cylinder head

[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsrtvhqxrr.jpeg[/thumb]

It weighs as much as a small car

I can play with turbo inline 6's to serj :smile:[/QUOTE]

Can't ever miss a Cummins head. What's with the boxes on top though? Only seen it on Cummins

[laserpanda]

[QUOTE=Grenadiac;50670602]I'm seeing tons of these fuckin polaris slingshots everywhere I go. What's the deal? They're everywhere. I saw 4 separate ones today. Are they just cheap or something?

If I wanted a 3 wheeler I'd get a Morgan.[/QUOTE]

They aren't that cheap iirc. A guy I work with bought one for around 20k when they first came out.

[LineArc]

[QUOTE=Gulen;50690662]Can't ever miss a Cummins head. What's with the boxes on top though? Only seen it on Cummins[/QUOTE]

Only ever seen it on the 12v and select industrial diesels, they're individual rocker covers. I think the train of thought is that if something goes then it wont take out the others with it, and in addition they seal better than one big solid one. I like 'em, much easiet to service.

[Missing User]

Today I learned that we get vehicles replaced based on resale value and not miles.

We have vehicles at 150k+ from 2011 that are beat to shit and I'm guess they're not going to be replaced

[WhiteFox08]

[QUOTE=clutch2;50683105]Ching ching!! $$ [/QUOTE]

[t]https://vgy.me/mAknsR.jpg[/t]

My god it looks like its begging for death.

[butre]

I wish they'd hurry up and release those things. I love 3 cylinder engines

[editline]12th July 2016[/editline]

idk why they don't just put an extra wheel in the back though

[NO ONE]

Fucking Elio, from all the shit I've read about them, [url=http://www.cheatsheet.com/automobiles/is-the-elio-on-its-last-legs.html/?a=viewall]it seems it will never be real[/url]. I WANT to believe, I [I]almost[/I] went for the investment opportunity (something like invest $1k and watch it grow in 2-3 years), and I told a good chunk of people about it. The fact it also has gotten plenty of good press (on the prototypes) was another redeeming factor. But the issue is, they are far too unspecific with just about everything they share, and there are many signs of things crumbling within. We have no real proof of concept sort of speak. No tangible results, which is stupid, because they are not trying to revolutionize cars, simply make them incredibly efficient. They are taking the simplicity approach, but their company is anything but.

[WhiteFox08]

[QUOTE=butre;50693607]I wish they'd hurry up and release those things.[/QUOTE]

I wish they'd would hurry up and mercy kill it. :nope:

[Del91]

Why its cheap and gets great gas mileage. I'd commute in it

[clutch2]

Well, they just released their newest prototype on June 30th that features a stamped and reinforced frame/ body like the production model should/ will have.. they're getting there slowly. Like ya'll said, I want to believe as well.. the idea is solid, and the results thus far have been neat albeit slow.

It's almost a "back to basics" sort of look and feel to the car, at least this prototype. The interior reminded me more of my '99 Corolla than the new stuff the big 3 are pumping out. And I like that. I'm not on their bandwagon with a preorder, but when (or if?) they hit the streets I'm going to watch very closely for a couple years and if they're reliable and do well I'm highly considering using one for my commuter car. to replace the Corolla which will be at like 300,000mi by then.

Here's a quick little copypasta write up from a headunit I installed today for a coworker. The interesting thing about the Chrysler 200 2015+ is that the HVAC display is the factory radio's screen, so all of this fancy shit allowed us to install a new, much much better radio AND it still displays that stuff on the screen. This is next level integration from Idatalink's Maestro RR system.

Used the CH3 and Maestro RR combo to do a 4200NEX radio in a Chrysler 200 with mid-level radio in it. That would be the small color screen that's in most of them.

You will need a headunit compatible with full Maestro RR integration, like the X200 NEX series or the 9702s. Maestro does everything, and I mean everything. It'll retain the whole HVAC panel complete with volume and tuning knob, full SWC integration, keeps the radio info display on the cluster, factory aux, and even backup camera WITH dynamic lines. So in short it's dope.

To keep sat order the SAT1 adapter and it'll plug right into a tuner.
To keep USB get a FEMALE mini USB to MALE normal USB cable, or cut and solder one on.
If the car has collision avoidance make sure to get the Maestro Speaker, too.

The factory bezel for the mid trim radio don't accommodate a DDIN, but snipping about 1/2" off at the bottom will make it fit. I used a 99-2011 kit for its versatility. Lots of plastic to cut behind the dash, too, but that's easy. There's a big metal mount for the factory radio that needs to be removed, and it's welded to the factory dash crossbeam.. but if you bend it back and forth for a couple minutes it'll break out eventually.

The unit barely fits in the dash because of a computer module's plug at the bottom of the radio cavity. I set the unit right on top of that plug and that got it at just the right position.

[url=http://s465.photobucket.com/user/isaact1234/media/Mobile%20Uploads/714E30F5-28C0-4BD3-BE3B-A314711E18EA_zpsdgujycyx.jpg.html][img]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/isaact1234/Mobile%20Uploads/714E30F5-28C0-4BD3-BE3B-A314711E18EA_zpsdgujycyx.jpg[/img][/url]

The plug in the back
[url=http://s465.photobucket.com/user/isaact1234/media/Mobile%20Uploads/E9C927F9-517F-4CFA-AED9-B72B12E27DB1_zpszmhmgcf2.jpg.html][img]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/isaact1234/Mobile%20Uploads/E9C927F9-517F-4CFA-AED9-B72B12E27DB1_zpszmhmgcf2.jpg[/img][/url]

[url=http://s465.photobucket.com/user/isaact1234/media/Mobile%20Uploads/B052F08F-629B-4EC6-B36F-3425239FEDBD_zpsi02uznfp.jpg.html][img]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/isaact1234/Mobile%20Uploads/B052F08F-629B-4EC6-B36F-3425239FEDBD_zpsi02uznfp.jpg[/img][/url]

[url=http://s465.photobucket.com/user/isaact1234/media/Mobile%20Uploads/3DC84DFA-472A-4EA8-A17F-5045524D621C_zpskrmjusmi.jpg.html][img]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/isaact1234/Mobile%20Uploads/3DC84DFA-472A-4EA8-A17F-5045524D621C_zpskrmjusmi.jpg[/img][/url]

[url=http://s465.photobucket.com/user/isaact1234/media/Mobile%20Uploads/93460241-B078-4D36-A743-A15D690B0871_zps1heyz3zz.jpg.html][img]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/isaact1234/Mobile%20Uploads/93460241-B078-4D36-A743-A15D690B0871_zps1heyz3zz.jpg[/img][/url]

[Serj22]

[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;50691649]Only ever seen it on the 12v and select industrial diesels, they're individual rocker covers. I think the train of thought is that if something goes then it wont take out the others with it, and in addition they seal better than one big solid one. I like 'em, much easiet to service.[/QUOTE]

The neeed for individual heads is for sealing. They seal much better than a full valve cover. On larger diesel motors, like train size, each cylinder has an individual head for the same reason. It's way easier to seat it flat.

[Ridge]

It looks sooo damn happy to be out and driving around!

[img]http://i.imgur.com/8sObPdih.jpg[/img]

[Metallics]

[QUOTE=Ridge;50694518]It looks sooo damn happy to be out and driving around!

[img]http://i.imgur.com/8sObPdih.jpg[/img][/QUOTE]

Aw man, frogeye sprites are the absolute best

[LineArc]

[QUOTE=Serj22;50694003]The neeed for individual heads is for sealing. They seal much better than a full valve cover. On larger diesel motors, like train size, each cylinder has an individual head for the same reason. It's way easier to seat it flat.[/QUOTE]

I know on the bigger 8.3L cummins they have 3 individual heads for each two cylinders, that would make more sense than one giant head that could potentially warp more as well. A lot easier for replacing parts and servicing as well

[Strontboer]

So they just jacked a steel rim with bold tires from my stepfathers car. Like, the car was right in between a new merc s class and a fucking tesla.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/CiwA9lL.jpg[/img]

Also they LEFT the wheel cap, but they took the fucking bolts.

[Adeptus]

[QUOTE=Strontboer;50695192]So they just jacked a steel rim with bold tires from my stepfathers car. Like, the car was right in between a new merc s class and a fucking tesla.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/CiwA9lL.jpg[/img]

Also they LEFT the wheel cap, but they took the fucking bolts.[/QUOTE]

It is a common occurrence here in Argentina. It's due to the fact that there are more low-mid range cars than a merc S class or a Tesla (like your stepfather's) and therefore it's easier to sell the stolen part.

[arcticdrinker]

Would I be retarded for trading my 2013 Mustang 5.0 for a 68 Olds 442 with a 455?

I've always thought about DD'ing a classic. Mustang is paid off and I have a 96 Jeep Cherokee too.

[Grenadiac]

I think that sounds like an awesome trade.

[Hickleberry]

[QUOTE=NuclearAnnhilation;50695840]Would I be retarded for trading my 2013 Mustang 5.0 for a 68 Olds 442 with a 455?

I've always thought about DD'ing a classic. Mustang is paid off and I have a 96 Jeep Cherokee too.[/QUOTE]

DD'ing a classic isn't as fun as you think. My buddy sold his new(er) car to buy a '69 Mustang and hated life every time we had an exceptionally cold morning. We genuinely spent more time working on it than he did driving it.

[Grenadiac]

[QUOTE=Aetna;50696137]DD'ing a classic isn't as fun as you think. My buddy sold his new(er) car to buy a '69 Mustang and hated life every time we had an exceptionally cold morning. We genuinely spent more time working on it than he did driving it.[/QUOTE]

They aren't all cranky on cold days. I guess it depends on the state of the car. Survivor cars seem to be better dailies than mechanically restored ones for some reason. Several of my friends daily unrestored 50s-60s cars with no serious problems.

[arcticdrinker]

[QUOTE=Aetna;50696137]DD'ing a classic isn't as fun as you think. My buddy sold his new(er) car to buy a '69 Mustang and hated life every time we had an exceptionally cold morning. We genuinely spent more time working on it than he did driving it.[/QUOTE]

I live in Florida, would that make a difference? Doesn't exactly get cold here. Friend DD'd a 66 Pontiac in high school and generally didn't have many issues.

Then again I'm in the military and could be moved around whenever. I'm just thinking since my Jeep is pretty reliable it wouldn't be too bad.

Honestly I'm probably going through a phase (lol) I don't tend to keep cars for long. It helps to have a relatively expensive car that's paid off.

[Hickleberry]

[QUOTE=NuclearAnnhilation;50696243]I live in Florida, would that make a difference? Doesn't exactly get cold here. Friend DD'd a 66 Pontiac in high school and generally didn't have many issues.

Then again I'm in the military and could be moved around whenever. I'm just thinking since my Jeep is pretty reliable it wouldn't be too bad.

Honestly I'm probably going through a phase (lol) I don't tend to keep cars for long. It helps to have a relatively expensive car that's paid off.[/QUOTE]

If you really want a classic car, flip your mustang and by yourself a cheap, reliable DD and a nice classic that you can drive when you're in the mood, even daily if you want. It's just good to have an alternative source of transport if the classic takes a dump and you can't find parts or whatever.

[Rockeiro]

[video=youtube;d8K25X_tAsQ]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d8K25X_tAsQ[/video]

[Grenadiac]

[QUOTE=Aetna;50697114]If you really want a classic car, flip your mustang and by yourself a cheap, reliable DD and a nice classic that you can drive when you're in the mood, even daily if you want. It's just good to have an alternative source of transport if the classic takes a dump and you can't find parts or whatever.[/QUOTE]

He's got a Jeep as a backup