Automotive Addicts Lounge V4 - Lube my pistons, baby - General

[QUOTE=CoilingTesla;49621634]Anyone have any advice for someone looking for a trucking job?[/QUOTE] If you already have your CDL then just start applying to random company's. If you dont have your CDL and you would like to be pad for by a company and go work for that company in the end call up Swift and say hello. Most if not all company will not plane out and hire a driver and send them off on their merry way. You will mostly likely have a "trainer" for 1-6 months. Swift, Werner, Schneider and Con-way are all good go-to company's that will pay for your CDL and get you rolling. (This is not my secret trick up my sleeve when my current boss pisses me off to the point I quit) Also 4chan /o/ has afew drivers, pop in there and say hello. Spit on the measly Pepsi driver as he is not a REAL truck driver.

[QUOTE=DPKiller;49621693] Spit on the measly Pepsi driver as he is not a REAL truck driver.[/QUOTE] What about the Coca-Cola driver?

[QUOTE=JesseR92;49621878]What about the Coca-Cola driver?[/QUOTE] They are not real OTR drivers. They are normally Local only.

Maybe I'm crazy but I'd much rather be a long haul trucker than a local single-axle driver. Having to regularly deal with city traffic in a semi, even if it is a tiny one, seems like hell to me.

So uh today I disassembled a Unifi UF65 projector, replaced the fan unit and put it back together and I got my Hella 500 driving lights and roof basket hhehehehe

[QUOTE=CoilingTesla;49621634]Anyone have any advice for someone looking for a trucking job?[/QUOTE] A lot of warehouses have a warehouse associate to driver program if you don't have your cdl, they'll pay for your cdl classes on your days off. Be prepared for some awful schedules though.

Tempting... 1997 dodge neon sport [url]http://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/5419943771.html[/url] - only 98,000 miles on the engine New parts recently added.... -brake pads -calipers -rotors -Windsheild -divers side window - gloss black paint job -spark plugs -spark plug wiring -fuel injectors -fuel filter -radiator fans -AC missing sunroof windo ... Also, what the fuck did I just find. 2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser Limousine [url]http://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/5401872666.html[/url] *Currently a well Maintained DOT vehicle* New Timing Belt and Water Pump 15" TV 1000 Watt sound system Lighted Mirrored Bar Ice Bin + Wine Cooler Lighted Mirrored Ceiling Laser Light Powered Partition Between driver and passenger cab. This was Pulled ...

Jesus Christ it's as ridiculous as I thought it would be. [img]http://images.craigslist.org/00G0G_eSiOJQZsQ6_600x450.jpg[/img] The interior is actually pretty nice though

[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/Mobile Uploads/image_zpsbjbtyyd7.png[/thumb] [thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/Mobile Uploads/image_zpsy31zphft.png[/thumb] So I uploaded an ad for my truck, 200 likes and 58 comments later (still climbing) I think I've become a sucessful salesman :smug:

unripped leather seats? Thats the real selling point

You're selling a Cummins truck for only $4500? Woh.

Imo, cummins owners are a little too proud of owning a dodge. All dodge people are. I was behind a dodge hemi pickup at a stoplight yesterday, the thing was plastered with stickers and emblems. I counted 11 dodge logos, 4 "HEMI"s, 3 "RAM"s and the best part was, the driver was a highschooler with a giant cowboy hat. Truck ricers are getting more and more common around here.

Clutch, how do you deal with steering locks and immobilizers?

[QUOTE=Gulen;49625821]Clutch, how do you deal with steering locks and immobilizers?[/QUOTE] where is this going

[QUOTE=rampageturke 2;49625953]where is this going[/QUOTE] He's taking my advice and getting a steering wheel lock to prank a guy in a wheelchair.

[QUOTE=Birdman101;49625788]Imo, cummins owners are a little too proud of owning a dodge. All dodge people are. I was behind a dodge hemi pickup at a stoplight yesterday, the thing was plastered with stickers and emblems. I counted 11 dodge logos, 4 "HEMI"s, 3 "RAM"s and the best part was, the driver was a highschooler with a giant cowboy hat. Truck ricers are getting more and more common around here.[/QUOTE] Around here all of the girls that hop on "that cuntry dick" of the fake rednecks wear Cummins shirts and hoodies. One time I asked what they thought of the "new 7.3l Cummins gas engine" and they kept going on and on about how it was so great :/ I hate the people around here [editline]28th January 2016[/editline] As much as I like large trucks, I really really want a diesel Hilux

[QUOTE=deathmog;49626177]Around here all of the girls that hop on "that cuntry dick" of the fake rednecks wear Cummins shirts and hoodies. One time I asked what they thought of the "new 7.3l Cummins gas engine" and they kept going on and on about how it was so great :/ I hate the people around here [editline]28th January 2016[/editline] As much as I like large trucks, I really really want a diesel Hilux[/QUOTE] Where I'm from, it's about the chevys, because apparently they aren't smart enough to go for the GMC. Oh, and they are ALL the same: anywheres from a 2002 to a 2010 model with an axle-over conversion in the rear to drop it a little, and rims. I try not to let that shit rub off on my Ford.

Can any of you give me some insight on summer tires? I've been considering getting a set of grippy summer tires for my Miata, but on Tire Rack they list 4 potential summer performance categories. Now, my intended purpose is daily driving with occasional track time/autocrossing. With that in mind, I need a compound that still will be safe in bad rain. I live in NH, so less than ideal weather is the norm. But yeah, I think wet performance is my only real concern. I'm storing the car for the winter, and it already has adequate all-seasons on it. I probably wouldn't even put the summers on til mid April and take them off Early October. I seemed to of missed out on a set of "Ultra High Performance" summers I looked at around last week. I forget the brand, but they had a special on them and appeared to be rated alright for daily driving. Right now all that is available on the site right now are [url=http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Dunlop&tireModel=Direzza+ZII+Star+Spec&partnum=86HR4Z2SS&vehicleSearch=true&fromCompare1=yes&autoMake=Mazda&autoYear=1990&autoModel=Miata&autoModClar=]these DUNLOP DIREZZA ZII STAR SPEC's[/url]. They are a bit expensive for my tastes though, so I'm sitting on it. Plus, again, I don't know if they are as adequate as the video by Tire Rack says they are for typical New England weather. I feel I could definitely get higher performance tires than what I have on there, and since it avoids the super cold months/snow, I figured summer tires might be a good choice. Is this sound reasoning?

Any of you install guys got any advice for wiring up a backup camera in my truck? Particularly where can I run the cable into the cab? Is there usually a place to stick cables through behind the dash or something?

[QUOTE=Birdman101;49626885]Any of you install guys got any advice for wiring up a backup camera in my truck? Particularly where can I run the cable into the cab? Is there usually a place to stick cables through behind the dash or something?[/QUOTE] Welcome to old trucks. Bore you a hole and stick er in. If it's alittle tight whallow it out and shove tighter. I made my own hole for my CB cable,trailer break and aux lights. The hole worked out perfectly to go right along the firewall down and into the frame.

Ill probably see if I can drill a hole around the rear top of the left quarter panel, so I can run the cable from the frame up inbetween the door and quarter panel, then into the cab and across the dash, so I dont have to dig through the dash, unless anyone knows a better place. Then I gotta go accessory wire hunting to power the screen.

[QUOTE=NO ONE;49626841]Can any of you give me some insight on summer tires? I've been considering getting a set of grippy summer tires for my Miata, but on Tire Rack they list 4 potential summer performance categories. Now, my intended purpose is daily driving with occasional track time/autocrossing. With that in mind, I need a compound that still will be safe in bad rain. I live in NH, so less than ideal weather is the norm. But yeah, I think wet performance is my only real concern. I'm storing the car for the winter, and it already has adequate all-seasons on it. I probably wouldn't even put the summers on til mid April and take them off Early October. I seemed to of missed out on a set of "Ultra High Performance" summers I looked at around last week. I forget the brand, but they had a special on them and appeared to be rated alright for daily driving. Right now all that is available on the site right now are [url=http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Dunlop&tireModel=Direzza+ZII+Star+Spec&partnum=86HR4Z2SS&vehicleSearch=true&fromCompare1=yes&autoMake=Mazda&autoYear=1990&autoModel=Miata&autoModClar=]these DUNLOP DIREZZA ZII STAR SPEC's[/url]. They are a bit expensive for my tastes though, so I'm sitting on it. Plus, again, I don't know if they are as adequate as the video by Tire Rack says they are for typical New England weather. I feel I could definitely get higher performance tires than what I have on there, and since it avoids the super cold months/snow, I figured summer tires might be a good choice. Is this sound reasoning?[/QUOTE] Based off of you saying that the Star Specs are the only extreme summer performance available, I'm guessing you're looking at 185/60/14? 14" is a size that's been losing support by tire manufacturers for a while now. As far as I know, those Star Specs and Falken RT615k's are your only real options. Star Specs are supposedly excellent, the last bastion of stock-size Miata performance rubber. RT615k's are also very nice; 200 treadwear (same as Star Spec) and no more than $100 bucks a pop—a buddy got a deal on $75 each. They're only 195/60/15, but that's fine for Miata (I have that size). Anyway, the 14" tire market really is that cozy, which is why a lot of guys go to 205/50/15. You'll have a legitimate offering from nearly every tire company in that size. Also, since it sounds like you have to deal with a lot of foul weather, have you considered doing the whole two sets of wheels/tires thing?

I was gonna get these for my Civic here soon most likely, 14x5.5 sucks. The Civic/Integra standard tire size is 185/65/14 or 195/55/15. I'm not looking for good sticky rubber for the beater though [url]http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=BFGoodrich&tireModel=g-Force+Super+Sport+A%2FS+%28H-+or+V-Speed+Rated%29&partnum=96HR4GFAS[/url] How wide are the wheels on the miata? Maybe you could fit these? [url]http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Toyo&tireModel=Proxes+R888&partnum=055VR4R888[/url]

[QUOTE=slayer3032;49627826]I was gonna get these for my Civic here soon most likely, 14x5.5 sucks. The Civic/Integra standard tire size is 185/65/14 or 195/55/15. I'm not looking for good sticky rubber for the beater though [url]http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=BFGoodrich&tireModel=g-Force+Super+Sport+A%2FS+%28H-+or+V-Speed+Rated%29&partnum=96HR4GFAS[/url] How wide are the wheels on the miata? Maybe you could fit these? [url]http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Toyo&tireModel=Proxes+R888&partnum=055VR4R888[/url][/QUOTE] Those first tires you linked... I've had three sets of those on the 'yata and obviously liked them well enough to, y'know, go through three sets. Track tires by no means, but plenty grippy if you ask me. My younger self attacked many a mountain road with those. Great for daily driving and bad weather too. NA steelies and Daisies are 5.5", all the other wheels are 6". I have seen those Toyos in the second link mounted to the 6" NA8 alloys, once. They were ballooning a lot. Those would be right at home on some 14x7 RPF1's though, haha. Anyway, they're 100 TW and I'm sure they'd be ass in the rain so I wouldn't recommend them to OP

[QUOTE=Birdman101;49627046]Ill probably see if I can drill a hole around the rear top of the left quarter panel, so I can run the cable from the frame up inbetween the door and quarter panel, then into the cab and across the dash, so I dont have to dig through the dash, unless anyone knows a better place. Then I gotta go accessory wire hunting to power the screen.[/QUOTE] Just about any line that gets power when the key is in "run" will do the trick, the line that feeds your cabin fan switch can do the trick along with nearly any point in your under dash fuse box thats also powered while the key is in "run". If you do in-between the door and cab you have a high chance of destroying the cable for the camera with repeated opening and closing of the door, a better bet would be to get some plastic hole plugs and cut a hole in the cab behind the driver or passenger seat or the floor below if your truck is not a pickup. Some good silicone or Right Stuff even with one of those plugs and you wont have to worry about cab leaks, just a hole large enough to feed the wire and one of the plugs things,[URL="https://www.google.com/search?q=firewall+plastic+for+car+or+truck&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj6r8_D6c3KAhVEJB4KHVY8CfYQsAQINA&biw=1680&bih=865#tbm=isch&tbs=rimg%3ACTqcY2Pgd0D1IjhUptvbwzIYFdC61vPfgNOsHhu3YYi14LLDNpn4fs67FK8t7MYJqI-kQ5Q6Yp9D9gWUnavqMzrhECoSCVSm29vDMhgVEealAmxdIR_1YKhIJ0LrW89-A06wRFTL37XfWTpEqEgkeG7dhiLXgshFkNDp4RYWSnCoSCcM2mfh-zrsUEWTltkRfQj_1sKhIJry3sxgmoj6QRkOJsV-iTcW8qEglDlDpin0P2BREd6whGIqSg8SoSCZSdq-ozOuEQEUgR-EyJLnrg&q=firewall plastic for car or truck"] pretty much any one of these[/URL] and you'll be good to go.

[QUOTE=danjee;49627894]Those first tires you linked... I've had three sets of those on the 'yata and obviously liked them well enough to, y'know, go through three sets. Track tires by no means, but plenty grippy if you ask me. My younger self attacked many a mountain road with those. Great for daily driving and bad weather too. NA steelies and Daisies are 5.5", all the other wheels are 6". I have seen those Toyos in the second link mounted to the 6" NA8 alloys, once. They were ballooning a lot. Those would be right at home on some 14x7 RPF1's though, haha. Anyway, they're 100 TW and I'm sure they'd be ass in the rain so I wouldn't recommend them to OP[/QUOTE] Yeah, I'd get 15" wheels for my Civic but the HX wheels I have weigh 11.75lb each. They're so stupid light and I spent way too much getting them sprayed gunmetal. I'm excited to get some new rubber under it soon.

[QUOTE=danjee;49627771]Based off of you saying that the Star Specs are the only extreme summer performance available, I'm guessing you're looking at 185/60/14? 14" is a size that's been losing support by tire manufacturers for a while now. As far as I know, those Star Specs and Falken RT615k's are your only real options. Star Specs are supposedly excellent, the last bastion of stock-size Miata performance rubber. RT615k's are also very nice; 200 treadwear (same as Star Spec) and no more than $100 bucks a pop—a buddy got a deal on $75 each. They're only 195/60/15, but that's fine for Miata (I have that size). Anyway, the 14" tire market really is that cozy, which is why a lot of guys go to 205/50/15. You'll have a legitimate offering from nearly every tire company in that size. Also, since it sounds like you have to deal with a lot of foul weather, have you considered doing the whole two sets of wheels/tires thing?[/QUOTE] Yeah, I'll keep the all-seasons on there already because they have like 95% tread left. Don't appear to be garbage tires either. [QUOTE=slayer3032;49627826]I was gonna get these for my Civic here soon most likely, 14x5.5 sucks. The Civic/Integra standard tire size is 185/65/14 or 195/55/15. I'm not looking for good sticky rubber for the beater though [url]http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=BFGoodrich&tireModel=g-Force+Super+Sport+A%2FS+%28H-+or+V-Speed+Rated%29&partnum=96HR4GFAS[/url] How wide are the wheels on the miata? Maybe you could fit these? [url]http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Toyo&tireModel=Proxes+R888&partnum=055VR4R888[/url][/QUOTE] Well, I was kind of thinking of staying with stock size wheels since I have stock rims anyway, but then again I was also thinking of hunting for some lighter rims for this second set, so in that case I could potentially go with a different size. I considered Toyo Proxies, but I'm not sure if I should get dedicated autocross wheels just yet. Considering how close to stock the car already is, and how few mods I have planned right now, I don't see other drivers in my class running tires like Proxies. I might be wrong though, and I'm still studying the overly detailed and kinda confusing rules for SCCA to see what I should be aiming for. I mean could stock suspension even make use of all that grip? I kinda like the idea of having a high performance tire for daily driving is the thing. Since I'll be spending more time driving on the street then any course/track, I'm thinking it's best to get a performance street tire is all. Also again, my biggest concerns are basically hydroplaning resistance and I suppose treadwear.

[QUOTE=Scientwist;49628052]Just about any line that gets power when the key is in "run" will do the trick, the line that feeds your cabin fan switch can do the trick along with nearly any point in your under dash fuse box thats also powered while the key is in "run". If you do in-between the door and cab you have a high chance of destroying the cable for the camera with repeated opening and closing of the door, a better bet would be to get some plastic hole plugs and cut a hole in the cab behind the driver or passenger seat or the floor below if your truck is not a pickup. Some good silicone or Right Stuff even with one of those plugs and you wont have to worry about cab leaks, just a hole large enough to feed the wire and one of the plugs things,[URL="https://www.google.com/search?q=firewall+plastic+for+car+or+truck&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj6r8_D6c3KAhVEJB4KHVY8CfYQsAQINA&biw=1680&bih=865#tbm=isch&tbs=rimg%3ACTqcY2Pgd0D1IjhUptvbwzIYFdC61vPfgNOsHhu3YYi14LLDNpn4fs67FK8t7MYJqI-kQ5Q6Yp9D9gWUnavqMzrhECoSCVSm29vDMhgVEealAmxdIR_1YKhIJ0LrW89-A06wRFTL37XfWTpEqEgkeG7dhiLXgshFkNDp4RYWSnCoSCcM2mfh-zrsUEWTltkRfQj_1sKhIJry3sxgmoj6QRkOJsV-iTcW8qEglDlDpin0P2BREd6whGIqSg8SoSCZSdq-ozOuEQEUgR-EyJLnrg&q=firewall plastic for car or truck"] pretty much any one of these[/URL] and you'll be good to go.[/QUOTE] No, I meant drilling a hole from the back of the panel to the inside of the cab. Not in the door seal. I didnt end up doing that anyway. I found a nice grommet in the firewall [del]thats inches away from the exhaust manifold[/del] and stuck it in there. Unfortunately I had to cut the RCA plug off the wire for it to fit, and I was too cramped/grumpy/cold to solder it back on properly so I taped it up and it seems to work for now. I dont know why I thought finding a hot wire for the screen would be hard, My grandpa had a whole bunch of accessories in it. The CB doesnt work, so I took that out and used the wire from it. Its always hot, but Im gonna put a toggle switch on the wire for it, cause toggle switches are fekken cool. There was no wire at the back of the truck that was only on when the key was on, so I spliced it into the always hot wire. Because I want it working immediately, Im just gonna crawl under the bumper to unplug it when not in use. Next time I can work on it, Im gonna track that wire down and stick it on the accessory solenoid where it belongs. In short, the wiring is pretty hodgey podgey, but it works enough for me to drive it and be able to see behind me. I just ziptied the screen to the rear view mirror too. Its just like having an xray mirror that can see through my big ugly camper.

[QUOTE=Gulen;49625821]Clutch, how do you deal with steering locks and immobilizers?[/QUOTE] Steering wheel lock gets disabled, unless it's electronic there's no way around it, and the only ones that are electronic, for the most part, are factory PTS cars. I disable it by getting a blank key cut, turning the ignition to accessory, and unplugging/cutting the keysense and ACC wires. This disables the steering wheel lock without any major modifications, plus is still mostly secure since the blank key won't start the vehicle. The PTS kit comes with a plastic 'cap' to put over the ignition cyl, so you take that blank and cut it down to just a nub big enough for you to turn, then pop the cap over top so it looks nice. Immobilizers get handled the same way as a remote start. Any variable resistance wires need to be replicated, and the key needs to be replicated in some way. Most cases a normal bypass module like you'd use for a remote start will suffice. If it's a VW or something that doesn't have an immobilizer bypass option you'll have to wrap a key and wrap the ignition cyl.. same as for a remote start. Another option would be to permanently bypass it, either by turning it off on a VAGCOM (if applicable) or glue/secure a programmed transponder pellet onto the vehicle's immobilzer antenna. Obviously that's less secure and leave the vehicle open for theft/hotwiring at that point, though.

Progress on the new rear emblem for my C4 vette: [t]https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xta1/t31.0-8/12615745_952313268149798_5691652487610901498_o.jpg[/t] [t]https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpt1/t31.0-8/12604765_952313284816463_4036054697516686466_o.jpg[/t]