Automotive Addicts Lounge V4 - Lube my pistons, baby - General

[QUOTE=DPKiller;50724955]"Long Travel Issue" Ha you mean GM quality breaks. Or... old car vs new car breaks. Because Jesus fuck stepping into a new car and be barely touching the break pedal sends you threw the windshield is rather annoying.[/QUOTE] Funnily enough, I'm trying to get the brakes to be more like my GM diesels brakes. Firm, not much travel, good control. Both my '79 Chevy K20 350 and '84 Chevy K20 6.2 diesel have very firm brakes that i really like.

I spotted a PS13 on the highway [img]https://scontent-arn2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13680740_10154297950494035_76815682176064688_n.jpg?oh=ec075d08fdd214860beaac85522cdcdb&oe=582CC04B[/img] And apparently he spotted me too! [img]https://scontent-arn2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13669157_1630682143926342_1750722879875975230_n.jpg?oh=4ac84c846992555fe0f4c9333fd5ccbb&oe=5825E3A2[/img]

[QUOTE=ksenior;50725481]Anyone know anything about drum brake auto-adjusters? The travel on my brake pedal has been getting longer over the last few months so I ordered some new brake shoes for my back drum brakes thinking they had worn out and the auto-adjusters had no more length to adjust with. I pulled the drum of the brake a few minute ago though and the brake pads were about 50% good. I have to assume the auto adjuster is busted but it could be something else. Anyone got any ideas?[/QUOTE] Try slamming on the brakes going backwards on pavement. A bunch of times. I know it works on GMs and Dexter brakes. [editline]17th July 2016[/editline] [QUOTE=FordLord;50726085]Funnily enough, I'm trying to get the brakes to be more like my GM diesels brakes. Firm, not much travel, good control. Both my '79 Chevy K20 350 and '84 Chevy K20 6.2 diesel have very firm brakes that i really like.[/QUOTE] Ahahahahahaha not much travel. I guess I'm plagued with JP5 brakes in everything I own. I swear litterly everything I drive has roughly a inch or two of travel before you get to somthing with some beef. So you will hear the booster SsssHhhhhhhhhh way before you get slung into the windshield. [editline]17th July 2016[/editline] [QUOTE=samuel2213;50725600]Hey, a while ago my father rebuilt the FZJ-80 engine in his land cruiser, and since then it's had an oil pressure problem. A second pressure gauge has been installed to double check it and it confirms the issue. It starts fine, but once it's been run for a few minutes and the oil heats up, it loses all pressure and sounds 'rattley'. So far the oil pump, all bearings, the head is brand new (but not made by Toyota), and everything else that we can think of has been either checked or replaced. We are out of ideas by this point. If anyone has any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated.[/QUOTE] Stop running it! No pressure means no protection! Replace oil pump with high pressure version.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/UEEZ4Ns.png[/img] Any idea what this is? Street view blocks the badge along with the license plate.

[QUOTE=laserpanda;50727526][img]http://i.imgur.com/UEEZ4Ns.png[/img] Any idea what this is? Street view blocks the badge along with the license plate.[/QUOTE] i think its a daihatsu but idk the model

[QUOTE=Ldesu;50725522]I work with car glass pretty much daily. The glass guy is hesitant to cut it out because it's [I]really[/I] easy to break it while doing so, and then you're gonna have to buy another windshield. What you can try though is to use a plastic prying tool and lots of soapy water and try to push it back into place. If you can't, you could cut away the part that goes behind the windshield and then get the glass guy to put some glass glue in the crack and use that to hold it in place.[/QUOTE] I'm all for buying new glass, but the dude didn't even want to try. He just flat out said that he doesn't do that and hung up.

found it. It's a Toyota WiLL Vi. Only made for a year then discontinued for unsurprisingly poor sales.

[QUOTE=laserpanda;50727526][img]http://i.imgur.com/UEEZ4Ns.png[/img] Any idea what this is? Street view blocks the badge along with the license plate.[/QUOTE] A crime against humanity.

Ok guys, I need some help. My gfs 2000 Galant 2.4 is having some strange charging issues and with all ive read it's a toss up between the alternators regulator having some kinda problem and the ecu not telling the alt to ramp up the volts when a load is applied, like head lights and ac and shit. The alternator is a 4 wire, has G S L and FR. S and L are for volt sense and the charge light, G and FR change voltage up and down conversly (G volts go up by 0.2 - 3.5 volts and FR the oppisite) The G line is SUPPOSED to increse its volts but does not and from all my tests it stays around 5.93 volts. FR about the same except FR actually changes a little. Theres no continuity between the G and FR lines and ground so wireing is effectivly ruled out. My problem is I dont know if the FR and G line from the alt are supposed to output volts or intake from the ecu as thats where they go to. I know clutch has an absurd amount of experiance with mitsus as he fixes DSMs all the time for his buds. If anyone has anymore input on the situation I am all ears, I dont futz with many mitsus being only one other person I know has one and it still goes to the dealer for repairs. [editline]17th July 2016[/editline] Also, props to everyone able to stand posting from their phone, shit is not an easy task I tells ya.

[QUOTE=Scientwist;50728143]Ok guys, I need some help. My gfs 2000 Galant 2.4 is having some strange charging issues and with all ive read it's a toss up between the alternators regulator having some kinda problem and the ecu not telling the alt to ramp up the volts when a load is applied, like head lights and ac and shit. The alternator is a 4 wire, has G S L and FR. S and L are for volt sense and the charge light, G and FR change voltage up and down conversly (G volts go up by 0.2 - 3.5 volts and FR the oppisite) The G line is SUPPOSED to increse its volts but does not and from all my tests it stays around 5.93 volts. FR about the same except FR actually changes a little. Theres no continuity between the G and FR lines and ground so wireing is effectivly ruled out. My problem is I dont know if the FR and G line from the alt are supposed to output volts or intake from the ecu as thats where they go to. I know clutch has an absurd amount of experiance with mitsus as he fixes DSMs all the time for his buds. If anyone has anymore input on the situation I am all ears, I dont futz with many mitsus being only one other person I know has one and it still goes to the dealer for repairs. [editline]17th July 2016[/editline] Also, props to everyone able to stand posting from their phone, shit is not an easy task I tells ya.[/QUOTE] I cut the altc wire on my Integra, it's a stupid piece of shit that causes constant voltage drops and the dash lights to flicker 2-3 times when you go from idle/stop to 3500rpms. I've even noticed since doing this my battery which was one "on it's last legs" a couple years ago giving me slow starts and gigantic voltage drops when turning on the headlights right after starting the car no longer does that. It's cafe emissions garbage that only existed on the USDM OBD2+ Hondas, the only usefulness of it is that Hondata can turn it into a very useful output for converting a non-vtec ecu into a vtec, ect. You should be able to cut that without issues unless it works in the inverse where the ECU controls the alt in some stupid manner which sounds like a nightmare to troubleshoot. [editline]17th July 2016[/editline] I also really miss my Desire Z sometimes, the hinge was a beautiful action and the keyboard was crazy perfect to SSH into whatever and bang out forum posts or even a high school essay in a pinch. [t]http://cdn.teamandroid.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/HTC-Desire-Z.jpg[/t]

[QUOTE=DPKiller;50727352]Try slamming on the brakes going backwards on pavement. A bunch of times. I know it works on GMs and Dexter brakes. [editline]17th July 2016[/editline] Ahahahahahaha not much travel. I guess I'm plagued with JP5 brakes in everything I own. I swear litterly everything I drive has roughly a inch or two of travel before you get to somthing with some beef. So you will hear the booster SsssHhhhhhhhhh way before you get slung into the windshield. [editline]17th July 2016[/editline] Stop running it! No pressure means no protection! Replace oil pump with high pressure version.[/QUOTE] Adjusting the pedal helped a ton, feels much better. The diesel has JP7 brakes, gasser i think had the JP7 as well. Incredibly HD brakes. The diesel has hydroboost, powered by the power steer pump. Gasser was boosted. Both had little travel, very firm brakes.

[QUOTE=slayer3032;50728998]I also really miss my Desire Z sometimes, the hinge was a beautiful action and the keyboard was crazy perfect to SSH into whatever and bang out forum posts or even a high school essay in a pinch. [t]http://cdn.teamandroid.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/HTC-Desire-Z.jpg[/t][/QUOTE] I still use mine as a handheld SSH terminal. The hilariously low amount of ram means you need to keep a lean install on it though. Also did do some final touches on some .doc documents before submitting them. In general, people who shit on flip-out or slide-out keyboards have never really used them before.

One of my best phones was a little LG that kinda looks like a BlackBerry. It's a slide phone with a decent sized kb. Was super great for texts and stuff but it wasnt a smart phone. I still have it somewhere in my room/storage. :v:

[QUOTE=Van-man;50729148]I still use mine as a handheld SSH terminal. The hilariously low amount of ram means you need to keep a lean install on it though. Also did do some final touches on some .doc documents before submitting them. In general, people who shit on flip-out or slide-out keyboards have never really used them before.[/QUOTE] I still intend on picking up a blackberry classic at some point because it can just install android APK's and isn't a potato. Edit: How the fuck did all this end up in the AA thread? Thought it was CIP.

[QUOTE=Van-man;50729148]I still use mine as a handheld SSH terminal. The hilariously low amount of ram means you need to keep a lean install on it though. Also did do some final touches on some .doc documents before submitting them. In general, people who shit on flip-out or slide-out keyboards have never really used them before.[/QUOTE] slide out was the best available before swype became a thing. these days it's only good for like portable ssh terminals where you're typing a lot of abbreviated or shortened or straight made up words like zsh, dir, or var

[QUOTE=Van-man;50729148]I still use mine as a handheld SSH terminal. The hilariously low amount of ram means you need to keep a lean install on it though. Also did do some final touches on some .doc documents before submitting them. In general, people who shit on flip-out or slide-out keyboards have never really used them before.[/QUOTE] I updated mine to JB and the nand died on it so it won't backup or format. It's brutally slow and I just use it for Shoutcast/Pandora/Podcasts 24/7 in my bedroom. At one point it had a year and a half of uptime. It usually takes a minute or two to switch between apps and I uninstalled and disabled nearly every app and service I could short of the play store since it's too much hassle to not use it. [QUOTE=butre;50729262]slide out was the best available before swype became a thing. these days it's only good for like portable ssh terminals where you're typing a lot of abbreviated or shortened or straight made up words like zsh, dir, or var[/QUOTE] I still can't stand swype and really dislike everything automotive related being autocorrected constantly to random normal people shit.

I just add words to the phones dictionary as they come up. it's not an issue

[QUOTE=butre;50729262]slide out was the best available before swype became a thing. these days it's only good for like portable ssh terminals where you're typing a lot of abbreviated or shortened or straight made up words like zsh, dir, or var[/QUOTE] Either I'm cursed or 'swipe' "soft" keyboards are still beyond utter shit. Especially the prediction and dictionaries part, fuuuuuck that shit with a flaming rake. Back with a T-9 phone I had to disable that too, just because of how much of a nuisance it is to me. Apparently no company wants to manufacture a device that allows one to hammer down walls of text on a mobile device, except for laptop manufacturers or shitty aftermarket solutions.

you're cursed

[QUOTE=butre;50729353]you're cursed[/QUOTE] Or just a control freak. Can't stand slushboxes either, and I prefer tech in general to let me decide instead of it pretending it knows what I want.

Guys... Guys... I did a thing. [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/eJZdSZz.jpg[/IMG] It's cool though. My SO [B]REALLY[/B] wanted a PT. I said not unless it's a turbo model. Got a GT. Has an amazing exhaust. [video=youtube;5BQeM8pyvRw]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5BQeM8pyvRw[/video] May the car gods forgive me when I offer a turbo to my V6.

[QUOTE=Lerlth;50729930]Guys... Guys... I did a thing. [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/eJZdSZz.jpg[/IMG] It's cool though. My SO [B]REALLY[/B] wanted a PT. I said not unless it's a turbo model. Got a GT. Has an amazing exhaust. [video=youtube;5BQeM8pyvRw]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5BQeM8pyvRw[/video] May the car gods forgive me when I offer a turbo to my V6.[/QUOTE] I'm not sure where the paper bag goes, over the PT Cruiser or yourself but I definitely wouldn't turn down a drive if it made noises like that :v:

You commited a very big sin in the automotive industry. You better make a tribute to the all mighty LS gods to give you mercy. Sounds like the fucking cat is gone.

Well, I'm going to stick a BOV on it because yeah, Stage 1 ECU, and a boost gauge. She's into quirky cars, I'm into Mopars, starting to lean towards FWD Mopars. So hopefully this goes well. She's agreed to help me do any maintenance on it, I want her to be able to do stuff to the car without having to take it to a shop and getting a shitty reach around. I'll make up for this, I swear my brothers, for had this not had a turbo... The answer would be helllll no. Plus, I think it will be pretty funny watching her race 80-90's Mustangs.

[QUOTE=DPKiller;50727352]Try slamming on the brakes going backwards on pavement. A bunch of times. I know it works on GMs and Dexter brakes. [editline]17th July 2016[/editline] Stop running it! No pressure means no protection! Replace oil pump with high pressure version.[/QUOTE] It's not an issue with the pump. The pressure was fine before the rebuild. We think it could be the head because it's the only major part that was completely replaced. we have had engineers look at it multiple times and they couldn't find anything wrong, and we don't want to replace it and find that it's still not holding pressure.

[QUOTE=samuel2213;50730853]It's not an issue with the pump. The pressure was fine before the rebuild. We think it could be the head because it's the only major part that was completely replaced. we have had engineers look at it multiple times and they couldn't find anything wrong, and we don't want to replace it and find that it's still not holding pressure.[/QUOTE] You just told us the oil pump along with all bearings were replaced. Now I'm by far not a enginer but oil has two options go in oil passages and go threw the crankshaft and make bearings happy or two leak onto the ground. Now because you touched it it now do sent work. There could be alot of goober mistakes we can't cover via simple text but I will boil down to the most basic. Check for a plug in the oil passage. Typically a engine rebuilder will plug oil passages after they are done. Check that the pump is getting powered by whatever. Check that the oil filter has self filled. Make sure key is ran as administrator.

Just finished up changing the brakes on the Saab, only took 6 days! Technically I was done on Saturday, but the battery was dead and I was dead yesterday. Couldn't find a jack point that would let me put a jack stand on the back so I just did the fronts. Took it for a test drive, had a horrible grinding noise, but figured it'd go away after breaking them in (had a slight grind when I put the caliper with pads on, so I figured it was that), it didn't. Turns out I had bent the brake shield when I put the caliper bracket on, so it was sticking way in around the bracket, and it was touching the underside of the disc on the bottom. Bent it back and it was all good! Now there's just the occasional clunk while braking. Oh, and one of the ball joints I replaced a month or two back already has a hole in it.

[QUOTE=DPKiller;50732147]You just told us the oil pump along with all bearings were replaced. Now I'm by far not a enginer but oil has two options go in oil passages and go threw the crankshaft and make bearings happy or two leak onto the ground. Now because you touched it it now do sent work. There could be alot of goober mistakes we can't cover via simple text but I will boil down to the most basic. Check for a plug in the oil passage. Typically a engine rebuilder will plug oil passages after they are done. Check that the pump is getting powered by whatever. Check that the oil filter has self filled. Make sure key is ran as administrator.[/QUOTE] Oops sorry, Misphrased the original post (posting on a smartphone leaves alot to be desired). I meant that the pump and bearings have all been checked thoroughly and the head is brand new. We know for a fact that the pump is working because it does get pressure, but loses a majority of it after a few minutes once the oil has heated up (I know engines do lose a little bit of pressure at that point, but not to this degree). We just can't figure out where it's all going. We have checked the engine multiple times over for any leaks or gaps, with no luck.

[QUOTE=samuel2213;50732424]Oops sorry, Misphrased the original post (posting on a smartphone leaves alot to be desired). I meant that the pump and bearings have all been checked thoroughly and the head is brand new. We know for a fact that the pump is working because it does get pressure, but loses a majority of it after a few minutes once the oil has heated up (I know engines do lose a little bit of pressure at that point, but not to this degree). We just can't figure out where it's all going. We have checked the engine multiple times over for any leaks or gaps, with no luck.[/QUOTE] I know some cars have a "restrictor" in the oil system (especially turbocharged) to build up pressure for the more vital parts, and reduce the pressure for the less vital. And most likely there's also a "overpressure" relief valve, that could be leaky too, so when the oil is hotter (and less viscous) it leaks more through the relief valve. Either way, it'll be a good idea to get a schematic of the oil system (if it exists) and check every vital part of it.

I bought a brick :smug: