Automotive Addicts Lounge V4 - Lube my pistons, baby

[FordLord]

[QUOTE=FrankPetrov;50809351]I need some help with my car not starting. I know its either the battery or starter. When I was getting gas then started it, it cranked slowly once then started on the second crank. Luckily I got home. A few hours later, I tried to start it. Cranked once then clicks. Figured maybe the alt gave out and the battery was almost dead so I charged it up. Put it back in, one crank then clicks. I'm mostly leaning to a bad battery. Opinions?[/QUOTE]
Clicking and slow starts is generally battery related. Make sure all connections, grounds, are clean.
A multimeter is needed for testing what's really going on, but if you put in a fresh charged battery (1.5-2A charge overnight), with clean connections everywhere, and it clicks on startup; your best bet is battery.

How old is the battery? If it's only 1-2 years old, you may have alternator issues that shortened the life. When you get a new battery, check the alternator output without load, under load, etc.
If it's too much older, it may just be time to replace it.

[frankpetrov]

Battery is at least 5 years old, probably older.

[LineArc]

After a solid week of tracking down electrical problems and damn near memorizing the haynes manual and all electrical components to a T, I've got my 'berta special 98 12 valve up and running

And my god, its the loudest, fastest, most RUDE truck I've ever owned

[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/Mobile Uploads/image_zpsp9ipewy3.jpeg[/thumb]

It'll light the tires in third, and god knows what would happen in fourth because the clutch just slips

[Vid]http://vid1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/Mobile Uploads/trim.852C3A40-7E0B-4D81-9880-28429D4F67AB_zpst689deke.mp4[/Vid]

This is running like shit and the clutch slipping, on stock injectors. I'll be picking up some 100hp over stock injectors with the proper spray pattern soon, should have that bitch pinned to 60 psi

[editline]1st August 2016[/editline]

Cant get the video to work, currently wraps the boost guage all the way to 0. Its a 35 psi guage.

[clutch2]

[QUOTE=Lerlth;50808846]

Agree for Daytona or Disagree for Neon?[/QUOTE]

The SRT4 Neon with straight pipes is one of the coolest sounding cars you can get, and isn't particularly rude at cruising speed, either. It pops and gurgles and just sounds amazing.

Plus it's fast, like obnoxiously poorly controlled fast. You press pedal, wheels spin. With an aftermarket blowoff valve the whole package is like a bigging rolling teenage hormone box. And it's practical.. I mean, it's a 4 door FWD sedan when not being driven like a race car.

I like the SRT, personally. Look out for 3rd gear pop outs, slippy clutches, and rust. If you can get unmolested, do it, of course.

The turbo oil lines like to leak, and the turbo's way in the back.. so kinda a pain. Otherwise it's pretty much like any other Chrysler. Keep timing belts in it and you'll be happy.

If you're a person who uses cruise control a lot plan for an extra $200-$300 in parts to add it on.

BUT.. in the end if you've got a stop-n-go commute the 5 speed might mean suicide. It's a fairly easy clutch, but I don't think I could do it, I just ain't man enough for that.

Up here in Wisconsin things have been slow since Pokemon came out. I haven't done well.. anything.. outside of work it seems like. I was (am) legit burned out from working too much outside of work. It's 40 hours a week of answering dumb questions all day (I'm there to work on cars, not debate why you need the fucking $100 harness for your radio, do you want the fucking thing or not? Please leave) then go home and work to make other people happy for minimal pay. So I took a vacation from that and have been catching them all, except herp.

The icing on the cake was finishing the bumper on the Cobalt.
I replaced his gas lines first
[URL=http://s465.photobucket.com/user/isaact1234/media/Mobile%20Uploads/364BE81E-6C29-4C11-8A1D-808C3FB88B4F_zpsxjtgfgws.jpg.html][IMG]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/isaact1234/Mobile%20Uploads/364BE81E-6C29-4C11-8A1D-808C3FB88B4F_zpsxjtgfgws.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Then mounted up the finished bumper with some new foglights.
[URL=http://s465.photobucket.com/user/isaact1234/media/Mobile%20Uploads/1C193BD2-C653-442A-BE40-1B737C595A31_zps3lfiyxpc.jpg.html][IMG]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/isaact1234/Mobile%20Uploads/1C193BD2-C653-442A-BE40-1B737C595A31_zps3lfiyxpc.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

And do you know what it was worth to him? $50. That's it. When I was done he handed me a wad of cash for the materials, and said "It's all for you man, this looks sweet, thanks so much." $50 on top of materials for like 20 hours of work. :v:
I simply salted off and haven't answered his texts :v:

My buddy with the Eclipse got it tinted and I snagged this pic after that, I was digging it.
[URL=http://s465.photobucket.com/user/isaact1234/media/Mobile%20Uploads/E2AB3984-582F-46F5-A338-7178BCF4C0D0_zpstfz4j0gz.jpg.html][IMG]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/isaact1234/Mobile%20Uploads/E2AB3984-582F-46F5-A338-7178BCF4C0D0_zpstfz4j0gz.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

The other NSX in town stopped by my shop one day when he was out playing Pokemon. Finally got a couple pics of the cars together with his new wide front fenders.
[URL=http://s465.photobucket.com/user/isaact1234/media/Mobile%20Uploads/669E6ADF-7C92-4614-AA24-045143C72A9F_zps1cs4hf2m.jpg.html][IMG]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/isaact1234/Mobile%20Uploads/669E6ADF-7C92-4614-AA24-045143C72A9F_zps1cs4hf2m.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

I was working on this switch panel that day in the shop.. pretty neat. I used a spare GM radio harness that had been snipped out of a vehicle to make the whole panel easy to connect and disconnect since it's only 1 plug and not 20 spade terminals or something.
[URL=http://s465.photobucket.com/user/isaact1234/media/Mobile%20Uploads/9C666739-FC5D-49A0-BAEF-5EC8BD30CCB0_zpsaw41rxss.jpg.html][IMG]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/isaact1234/Mobile%20Uploads/9C666739-FC5D-49A0-BAEF-5EC8BD30CCB0_zpsaw41rxss.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Went for a cruise last night to grab a bite with my Subaru buddy.. under the gas station lights the cars looked so good I needed to take a pic
[URL=http://s465.photobucket.com/user/isaact1234/media/Mobile%20Uploads/E2230F57-42E3-4DD8-ACBB-AFC2B60E7B28_zpsbdwabqlm.jpg.html][IMG]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/isaact1234/Mobile%20Uploads/E2230F57-42E3-4DD8-ACBB-AFC2B60E7B28_zpsbdwabqlm.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

And then that brings us to today. I'm out of town all week for work, then I have two weeks off. And I wanna do something relaxing, right? Well I have all that Autoflex to spray wrap a car orange since we used normal paint on the Audi this spring.. we decided to do it to the green Eclipse with a couple of the days I have off! So today we lugged it over to my house, replaced the alt like it needed, and finished fixing a hole in the strut tower that we started 2 years ago but ran out of welding gas, lol. Hopefully these are some of the last pics of it green! :)

[URL=http://s465.photobucket.com/user/isaact1234/media/Mobile%20Uploads/E9DFE4C2-5488-43FD-82D1-A5698A1FB27E_zpswz62v6d7.jpg.html][IMG]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/isaact1234/Mobile%20Uploads/E9DFE4C2-5488-43FD-82D1-A5698A1FB27E_zpswz62v6d7.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Once the new 18s come for the red Eclipse, the old black 18s go back on this and it'll be like a whole new car.. no more sunfaded roof and nonsense! It was nice to have it back on the road with the new alt, too.

[lordcrypto]

[QUOTE=butre;50678697]you're right to not trust that tire. what year is the camry? if it's 04 or newer it's got the same lug pattern as the 300zx and you can just swap the wheels for the time being.

otherwise, I've driven some illegal as hell cars in my lifetime and my advice for not getting caught is as follows:

stick with no plates. you're more likely to get pulled over for no plates than wrong plates but you're in way less of a world of shit for no plates than using plates not for the car. fraud is about 90 times more illegal than no registration and will be the difference between a nasty ticket and getting arrested and having your car impounded.

stick to 3 or 4 miles per hour over the limit. cops rarely speed unless they're en-route so they're not going to sneak up behind you and spot your out of date registration. just don't go so fast that you get busted at a speed trap.

on multi-lane roads, stay in the right lane wherever possible. being in the right lane means less people will be able to see your plates, and it gives you an escape route. if you're in the right lane and there's a cop in the middle, you can duck into a parking lot way quicker than he'll be able to follow you. they're not going to clear a building for a traffic violation. on single lane roads, identifying cars in front of and behind you is considerably less work, meaning it's easier to spot a cop.

a gas station is the best place to lose a tail. cops will almost never follow you in. pull up, get out, ignore the cop (unless he's already flipped on his blues), and either get gas or go inside. if he moves on, great, if he circles, just make a phone call. they don't care to stick around that long, but if they do then be prepared to keep that phone call going for the next 3 hours. you might get lucky and it be the end of his shift anyway and he'll move on right away, or you might be stuck there for a while.

stick to freeways wherever possible. there are less cops to begin with, and the cops that are there aren't looking for registration, they're looking for dipshits doing 90 in their dad's bmw.

if you're driving at night, learn headlights. looking for crown vic lights doesn't do you much good these days, but there are still some tricks you can employ:

police cars are fleet vehicles, they're not going to spring for fancy xenons or leds.
police cars will never have dim headlights
police cars will never have excessively bright headlights
police cars sure as shit will never be a padiddle
narrow or round headlights aren't used on any police package vehicle

if you know a cop is going to be pulling up next to you at a stop light, do that thing that people who can't drive do where they pull out into the intersection and then back up out of it. with any luck someone will have pulled in behind you and you can use their car as a shield to block their view of the plates.

traffic lights are your greatest enemy if you haven't already figured it out.

learn to spot unmarked cars too. if you see someone darting up behind vehicles, staying for about 10 seconds, and then darting up behind another vehicle, it's a cop. if you see a bunch of shit on the dash that isn't just paperwork or trash, it's a cop. if you see a car with the back seat caged off, it's either a cop or a cab, treat them the same, being cautious isn't going to kill you. if you see a car with a dark tint, assume it's a cop.

it's not relevant to this situation, but if you just had expired plates:
if you're in a state with front plates, remove them. cops in front won't know where your vehicle is registered, and cops behind won't know you don't have a front plate, just don't let any cops overtake you. they probably won't notice, but they might. if you pass a cop, you've got the jump on them, allowing you ample time to pull into a parking lot and duck into a building.

[editline]9th July 2016[/editline]

I've gotten away with writing fake bill of sales for a trailer that I rarely used and didn't make fiscal sense to register too. don't think it'll work for something with a vin but it's worth noting. in that case, I had originally bought the trailer from a friend and told him of my methods in case I ever had to go to court over it.[/QUOTE]

late as fuck

but something else i've noticed after spending a ridiculously high amount of time on california's two lane freeways the past year

while yes you're not looking for crown vics so much anymore, something to watch out for with the new ford explorer police interceptor utility:

the PIU doesn't have the cheese grater grill, so if you see an explorer behind you with the cheese grater grill, you're probably fine; below is never a cop

[t]https://enthusiastnetwork.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/sites/7/2015/10/2016-ford-explorer-front-grill-044.jpg[/t]

[Strontboer]

[QUOTE=clutch2;50809511]
Then mounted up the finished bumper with some new foglights.
[URL=http://s465.photobucket.com/user/isaact1234/media/Mobile%20Uploads/1C193BD2-C653-442A-BE40-1B737C595A31_zps3lfiyxpc.jpg.html][IMG]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/isaact1234/Mobile%20Uploads/1C193BD2-C653-442A-BE40-1B737C595A31_zps3lfiyxpc.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

And do you know what it was worth to him? $50. That's it. When I was done he handed me a wad of cash for the materials, and said "It's all for you man, this looks sweet, thanks so much." $50 on top of materials for like 20 hours of work. :v:
I simply salted off and haven't answered his texts :v:
[/QUOTE]

That's kinda fucked up, I mean if it's a really good friend and he does shit for you too I'd understand it if it were a friendly gesture (doing the bumper I mean) but if you're gonna give something, at least make it worth the touble.

[Silence]

[QUOTE=Strontboer;50785658]Thanks, by the way that's stainless steel.

Any tips for getting the material clean? Would an angle grinder be good enough? Or should I also hit it with acetone?[/QUOTE]

A grinder is enough, but you have to hit it good (make sure all of the metal is shiny) and be sure to clean everywhere around the weld. Don't just clean the face of the weld. When the metal heats up, it will suck impurities from outside of the weld. Clean a good 3 to 4 inches past anywhere your weld will be (including mating surfaces if your doing a weld like the one you posted below). On some metals (especially aluminum, sometimes stainless), you might need to use acetone after making the parts completely shiny with a flap disk or grinder.

[QUOTE=Strontboer;50806891]TIG day 4

[img]http://i.imgur.com/Y80ZZwd.png[/img]

I'll stop with the updates now until I'm actually decent :v:[/QUOTE]

That's not bad, but work on feathering out on your stops and starting again in the same area. Also, I would not have tried to single pass something that thick. Use a smaller root pass dabbing dimes, then go over it walking the cup to fill it up the rest of the way.

[QUOTE=butre;50807534]what the hell is that cavity

don't bother stacking dimes unless you're welding thin aluminum. it makes for a pretty weld, but not a particularly strong one. go for fillets on steel[/QUOTE]

Fillet isn't a technique, it's a weld type where the pieces being welded create a 90 degree angle (also known as a T joint weld). You're talking about a weave, or "walking the cup" for TIG. Dabbing the filler, or "stacking dimes" isn't any weaker than a weave when done right and used correctly. Stick root passes and the first couple of filler passes are done dabbing filler. The key is to know when to use each technique.

Dabbing filler is best used for smaller passes like root passes or the first few fillers in a fillet or bevel weld. As long as you have 100% penetration on both pieces, you're fine. Weaving, or "walking the cup" are best used on the remaining fillers and cap passes on a fillet or bevel weld because you're trying to cover a wider area with a single pass of the weld.

Either way, if you're getting good penetration and tie-in to the base metals, 9 times out of 10 the weld itself will be stronger than the base metal. Using 7018LH rods welding 1/4" steel plate, the steel plate will fail before that 70,000 psi weld material will.

[Timezbrick]

Can anyone here help me figure out on how I should remove these dents?
[t]http://i.imgur.com/FxcNQEg.jpg[/t][t]http://i.imgur.com/It3oT3H.jpg[/t]
It should look like:
[t]http://i.imgur.com/Y15nUJ7.jpg[/t]
[sp] I also just noticed the tiny other dent on the hood :v:[/sp]

[FordLord]

I see straight piped SRT4's somewhat often, I don't think they sound good at all.
Usually like the typical straight piped I4, usually the turbos are untouched and the whistle isn't much.
Even worse when fart cans are slapped on.

[Silence]

I miss my Mustang. There's a hole in my heart now...... :cry:

[Lerlth]

[QUOTE=FordLord;50810612]I see straight piped SRT4's somewhat often, I don't think they sound good at all.
Usually like the typical straight piped I4, usually the turbos are untouched and the whistle isn't much.
Even worse when fart cans are slapped on.[/QUOTE]

They sound absolutely fine stock. They're straight piped from the factory, but people will put glass packs and other stupid shit on them. They sound like a little louder version of the GT Cruiser I bought and posted a video about.

[butre]

srt4s benefit from a larger diameter pipe. maxxfab makes a pretty good dump pipe for them, and borla has a killer catback

[iRex]

radiator blew a hose on I-91 (highway in MA) and barfed coolant everywhere, luckily I had a gallon of distilled water in the trunk because it was on sale for cheaper than a water bottle so i bought a couple at work so I patched the hose with ductape and dumped the water in, then limped to the nearest autozone and changed the hose in their parking lot. I feel accomplished :smug:

[Trekintosh]

I got our PT Cruiser GT running again. It drives around but alarming knocking noises are coming from the back. I don't know if it's the splash guards I've mangled or not but I'm gonna JB Weld the shit out of them to see if that's it or wheel bearings being trashed.

[Lerlth]

Track bar? My GT makes pops after hitting small pot holes. Sounds like the track bar bouncing though.

[Trekintosh]

[QUOTE=Lerlth;50813631]Track bar? My GT makes pops after hitting small pot holes. Sounds like the track bar bouncing though.[/QUOTE]

I thought that but it's rhythmic and consistent as the wheels speed up and down. It also seems louder when braking or turning left relatively sharply. It gets downright terrifyingly loud above 40.

[FordLord]

Went from heat range 6 to proper heat range 5 plugs (1 step hotter)
First time in 50k miles I have had the proper plugs, the parts store gave me the wrong ones and I didnt notice until I checked my spare parts bin.
Went to BKR5E-11 gapped to .045".

One thing;
Cylinder 1 had VERY heavy deposits. 2-4 looked nearly new, 1 had deposits as thick as 1/8".
This is the same cylinder that had the corroded coil pack connection.
So; is it poor coil connection caused poor combustion and deposits, or an issue inside the motor caused issues?

[karbine]

Cyl 1 Injector could be shit and spraying too much fuel, and EJs run rich as almighty FUCK already.

Speaking of EJs, my wrx's throttle cable snapped down an onramp with no shoulder. Took a garage door cable I had in the car and pulley'd it around my radiator cap and hand controlled the throttle all the way home :V

Oh, and my hood flew up and broke my windshield. Joy. Good thing windshield replacements are free in florida. Stronk as fuck hoodscoop

[FordLord]

[QUOTE=Amplar;50817631]Cyl 1 Injector could be shit and spraying too much fuel, and EJs run rich as almighty FUCK already.

Speaking of EJs, my wrx's throttle cable snapped down an onramp with no shoulder. Took a garage door cable I had in the car and pulley'd it around my radiator cap and hand controlled the throttle all the way home :V

Oh, and my hood flew up and broke my windshield. Joy. Good thing windshield replacements are free in florida. Stronk as fuck hoodscoop[/QUOTE]

Most of the rich issues are out of spec sensors. Nearly everything errs on the side of rich when going bad.
Mine should run pretty good now that I have the hotter plugs. At 5k+ RPMs, it'd get rich.

I suppose it could be an injector, 250k miles on untouched originals.
Though, with all I've found, I'm not sure if I have corrected the problem, or corrected side affects of the problem.
The issue that had me searching is, during long sits in traffic, it will begin to shake hard as if one cylinder is barely firing. High RPMs, quick stops, theres no issues.

[mastoner20]

[QUOTE=Trekintosh;50813715]I thought that but it's rhythmic and consistent as the wheels speed up and down. It also seems louder when braking or turning left relatively sharply. It gets downright terrifyingly loud above 40.[/QUOTE]

Is it a pop or a grind? Wheel bearings usually have more of a grinding, clattery type noise.

[Scientwist]

[QUOTE=FordLord;50817891]Most of the rich issues are out of spec sensors. Nearly everything errs on the side of rich when going bad.
Mine should run pretty good now that I have the hotter plugs. At 5k+ RPMs, it'd get rich.

I suppose it could be an injector, 250k miles on untouched originals.
Though, with all I've found, I'm not sure if I have corrected the problem, or corrected side affects of the problem.
The issue that had me searching is, during long sits in traffic, it will begin to shake hard as if one cylinder is barely firing. High RPMs, quick stops, theres no issues.[/QUOTE]

Sounds to me like a cylinder isn't firing, it wont really run rough in higher RPMs because the balance of the engine off sets the non-firing cylinder. If your able, pull cyl 1's injector and inspect the end for excessive deposits, if the end looks like it's caked to all fuck you can safely assume it's the injector.

If you want to test to see if it's only clogged or the solenoid in it is jammed, take some test leads with gator clips and either 2 AA batteries or a 9v and tap the leads to energize the injector, if it clicks theres a good chance it's clogged. In that case, blast some brake clean or throttle body cleaner into both ends to try and loosen up the gunk, going back and forth between energizing it a few times and spraying it. DO NOT hold a 9v battery to an injector, it will damage the coil as a 9v is normally more power then an injector gets milliamp wise.
Do this till no more crap comes out and it sounds nice and strong.

Also listen to how strong the click is if it does, if its weak it wont fire right because the pressure of the fuel behind it won't let it open, usually, depending on the internal design.

Of course, no clicky at all means dead injector. I find Marvel Mystery Oil works well in getting injectors to move freely, doesn't take much. Helps if the injector has an in side that you can put a hose or tube on and let the cleaner pass through on it's own.

[clutch2]

[QUOTE=Lerlth;50812117]They sound absolutely fine stock. They're straight piped from the factory, but people will put glass packs and other stupid shit on them. They sound like a little louder version of the GT Cruiser I bought and posted a video about.[/QUOTE]

Whatever it is that makes them do this.. that's the goods
[video=youtube;OliopcDsD-c]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OliopcDsD-c[/video]

[karbine]

[QUOTE=FordLord;50817891]Most of the rich issues are out of spec sensors. Nearly everything errs on the side of rich when going bad.
Mine should run pretty good now that I have the hotter plugs. At 5k+ RPMs, it'd get rich.

I suppose it could be an injector, 250k miles on untouched originals.
Though, with all I've found, I'm not sure if I have corrected the problem, or corrected side affects of the problem.
The issue that had me searching is, during long sits in traffic, it will begin to shake hard as if one cylinder is barely firing. High RPMs, quick stops, theres no issues.[/QUOTE]
EJs are factory tuned to run pig rich anyways, lol. That's partly why MPGs have never been subaru's strong point. I think they're factory rich to prevent knock from shitty fuels and keep the engine a bit cooler, EJs are finicky with their cooling systems.

[MetricMoose]

Had a small rock somehow wedge itself between the backing plate and the brake rotor, holy shit that's a terrifying noise. Drove it to the dealer, which was five minutes away and I was getting some very concerned looks from other drivers. The noise was so loud I checked under the car first to see if the exhaust was dragging, but it was definitely coming from my front right wheel.

Dealer jacked it up, took the wheel off and managed to get the tiny bitch-ass rock out of there.

[Ferosso]

[QUOTE=benjgvps;50819136]Had a small rock somehow wedge itself between the backing plate and the brake rotor, holy shit that's a terrifying noise. Drove it to the dealer, which was five minutes away and I was getting some very concerned looks from other drivers. The noise was so loud I checked under the car first to see if the exhaust was dragging, but it was definitely coming from my front right wheel.

Dealer jacked it up, took the wheel off and managed to get the tiny bitch-ass rock out of there.[/QUOTE]

My Civic's exhaust actually snapped once, right after the cat. I was doing 120 km/h on the highway at night. Now THAT'S a terrifying sound.

Let me do a little play on how the scene unfolded:

>BRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
>*vtec*
>BRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA- *dink* *bonk*
>KKKKKKRRRRRRRRRRRRFSSSSSSSSSSSSCCCCCCCCCCCCRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
>*See nothing but sparks in the rear view mirror*
>*Cars exhaust note goes from BRAAAAAAA to BRAAAAAA x 5*

Turns out the entire catback was only hanging by the rear fittings under the rear bumper, and I was dragging the rest of the pipe forwards. That was when I remembered the episode of Mythbusters where they test if a car can do a sick flip if the crank shaft breaks and drags on the ground exactly like my exhaust did.
I have literally no clue how to fix cars, so I just drove the rest of the way home, almost shitting my pants because of all the sparks and fear of hitting a pot hole.

[Levelog]

Similar thing happened to me when someone acquired my catalytic converter without my permission...

[FordLord]

[QUOTE=Amplar;50818875]EJs are factory tuned to run pig rich anyways, lol. That's partly why MPGs have never been subaru's strong point. I think they're factory rich to prevent knock from shitty fuels and keep the engine a bit cooler, EJs are finicky with their cooling systems.[/QUOTE]
They aren't too bad on fuel, mine got 27mpg mixed when newer.
I can say that, with the right plugs and good condition sensors, mine isn't too rich.

Anyways, got into an accident on the way to work.
Lady cut me off 3 times prior to the accident, never used her blinkers.
Need new fender, parking light, bumper piece.
Think the bumper cover is okay. She hit the wheel and gave it a rash, but I think it will be okay.

Countersteered to avoid hitting the curb and damaging my car more, basically resulted in her getting a PIT maneuver.

I have no idea what the media tags are now.
I'll try [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nSvrOmiNu34[/media]

[Slayer3032]

Spent some time on my window sills which I've left off my Civic for month or so since they're a bitch and a half to mess with. Finally decided it was fuck it time and burnt off what was left of the rubber coating then murdered them with a brass wire brush in my drill.

[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2016-08-02%2009.35.05-2.jpg[/t]

Have at least 5-6 hours of straight work on these pieces of shit and all I feel like I've done is ruin them. Maybe tomorrow I'll strip the last inch or so of rubber down to the "cap" so I can spray the pieces of shit. Also need to wet sand my B pillar trims since they're not really smooth and the coating looks super uneven.

If I'm lucky this weekend a buddy of mine will come over and we'll try to figure out the rear motor mount, supposedly this is how you get to the "impossible bolt" which is surrounded on all sides by the mount and firewall.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/20150117_112848_efda803cfba295489438ffb2929eb74502b7deab.jpg[/t]

[LineArc]

[QUOTE=FordLord;50820811]

[/QUOTE]

Its stupid stuff like this that makes me glad to have a big truck, because 9 times outta 10 the truck will come out unscathed and the offending vehicle gets obliterated.

I think I'll buy a dash cam after seeing this though, I imagine there would be one hell of a fuck around if you didnt have the video.

On another note, after some thought I'm planning to make a trip to Texas or California in the winter with just my truck. The idea is to put a canopy on the back, throw a bed in there, and build some storage and shelves inside the canopy to live out of, showering at gyms ever odd day. Total budget trip! Any suggestions on things to bring, places to go, and stuff to do to the truck?

This is similar to what I'm thinking: [url]http://www.desktodirtbag.com/pickup-truck-camping/[/url]

[DPkiller]

[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;50821667]Its stupid stuff like this that makes me glad to have a big truck, because 9 times outta 10 the truck will come out unscathed and the offending vehicle gets obliterated.

I think I'll buy a dash cam after seeing this though, I imagine there would be one hell of a fuck around if you didnt have the video.

On another note, after some thought I'm planning to make a trip to Texas or California in the winter with just my truck. The idea is to put a canopy on the back, throw a bed in there, and build some storage and shelves inside the canopy to live out of, showering at gyms ever odd day. Total budget trip! Any suggestions on things to bring, places to go, and stuff to do to the truck?

This is similar to what I'm thinking: [url]http://www.desktodirtbag.com/pickup-truck-camping/[/url][/QUOTE]

Just a suggestion that I could never leave without. A outdoor dual burner stove and a griddle attachment to sit on top. Easy eggs and bacon plus fajitas and pankackes and whatever else.

Also a cooler might be a PITA for your trip look into 12v refrigerators the expensive ARB, Engel , Dometic. I personally have the 33 quart dometic and I will never regret spending 700$ on a portable refrigerator. On the drive back from Port o connor this weekend I brought back frozen red fish , flounder , trout and ice cream! All stayed solid as a rock! It's fully adjustable on temp to dial down to a refrigerator.

Other than that you are golden.