Automotive Addicts Lounge V4 - Lube my pistons, baby - General

[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;50955714]Advisory: Wheel hop in a 500hp truck without traction bars kills driveshafts... [thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpstwqzjtap.jpeg[/thumb] Now I'm debating whether I should 6 speed swap the truck now so I only have to shorten it once, but that'll be $3500 just for the trans and clutch, not including a new shaft... [editline]26th August 2016[/editline] What kinda truck are you looking for? Cummins, duramax, or powerstroke?[/QUOTE] To be honest... any of them. I just want to get a diesel so I can get rid of this stupid 2014 Focus I bought and get back into a truck. I love Cummins personally, but the platform they're in is absolute junk between Dodge's front end and their transmissions. The LBZ Duramax is my secret go-to but I'm a Ford and Dodge kinda person. Basically whatever diesel comes up that I'm able to get financed for is the one I'll get as long as its in good shape. [editline]27th August 2016[/editline] I can only imagine what it's like up there for diesel's but I know down here in Arkansas every kid wants one so they can roll coal and look cool for their friends. I'm just trying to make power and go from point a to point b while also being able to tow whatever I want.

update on my bike situation, think i'm going to grab this off my local cl: [url]http://lexington.craigslist.org/mcy/5723064706.html[/url] after talking to a friend who used to be a mechanic, he says it is probably just dirty carbs or another easy fix, maybe a bad CDI box (idk what this is, assuming its something like an ECU) in the worst case. worst case scenario, i buy it and i dont make any progress and just sell it for what i paid, best case i get a 2k bike for 750 plus the 100 bucks ill have to pay to get to it and back in a uhaul [editline]27th August 2016[/editline] not only do i get a good deal on a first bike this way, but ill get a little bit of hands on experience with maintenance and also wont have to upgrade to something bigger in a year

[QUOTE=MisterLANCE;50955678]Yes, it's just a cobra 75. I wanted something I could easily take out so it doesn't get stolen when I have the top and doors off.[/QUOTE] Protip: Build it into the dash. [IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/P1033604.jpg[/IMG] Thee more you build into the car, the less shit that ends up going missing when you leave the top off.

[QUOTE=pentium;50955839]Protip: Build it into the dash. [IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/P1033604.jpg[/IMG] Thee more you build into the car, the less shit that ends up going missing when you leave the top off.[/QUOTE] Is that a Cobra 29 LTD?

[QUOTE=pentium;50955839]Protip: Build it into the dash. [IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/P1033604.jpg[/IMG] Thee more you build into the car, the less shit that ends up going missing when you leave the top off.[/QUOTE] Praticing the good ol reach around to get to the mic ehh? [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1031910/Owned%20Vehicles/92%20Chevy%201500/IMAG1016.jpg[/t] [editline]27th August 2016[/editline] [QUOTE=Dr. Deeps;50955863]Is that a Cobra 29 LTD?[/QUOTE] Nah I think shes a Realistic TRC-428 or somthing. *goes back into cave* Noooope I dont know anything about CB's or anything. I only like warping antennas.

All this talk of CB's makes me miss the one I had in my old dodge. [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/WooELIv.jpg[/IMG]

[QUOTE=pentium;50955839]Protip: Build it into the dash. [IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/P1033604.jpg[/IMG] Thee more you build into the car, the less shit that ends up going missing when you leave the top off.[/QUOTE] I have a stock double din cd player radio, and I really like the style of it, and the fact that nobody will try to rip it out. replacing with a single din is a no go mostly because all of them light up like a christmas tree. That's the reason I went with the cobra 75. The box and everything is in the dash, the coax runs up through my roll bar, and the only thing that's visible is the handset. I dont leave much to steal in the car. The glovebox is empty, and the center console only contains an aux cable and $10 sunglasses. The actual things (jumper cables, paperwork, jack, tools, etc) are all located in an under floor steel locking deck. btw nice tracker, my dad had one but sold it probably 7 years back or so.

I think I may have found the source of my horribly creeking/knocking suspension: [t]http://i.imgur.com/nUjPPlZ.jpg[/t] You're looking at the top mount bearing. It's supposed to look like this: [t]http://i.imgur.com/d3GF45Y.jpg[/t] It came apart while I was compressing the spring in the strut. This is probably the one I opened up a couple months back when I lowered my car. Something must've happened when I replaced the ball joint a week back, since it went from a little bit of knocking to a horrible knock/creeking going over bumps/braking/accelerating/getting out of the car. Replaced with all new bearings yesterday.

[QUOTE=evilweazel;50954361]What year you shooting for? I wanted a Taco until I started looking up prices for them. They hold their value too well, in my opinion. Even the older ones are still high as hell. The Toyota badge makes vehicles cost a bit more than they're actually worth most of the time, in my experience. They're good trucks no doubt, probably some of the best available. However, the price point they're usually put at seems hard to justify to myself. That's why I decided to nab my Xterra instead. Same thing happens with 4runners and Land Cruisers especially. Turned out pretty well for me when we were selling my rav4, though, so I'm a hypocrite. :v:[/QUOTE] I'm looking at about 06 to 11. Yeah, they're expensive, but if their reliability is what everyone says, I can justify that. I was hoping not to go above 15 to 20k at the highest end, though.

[QUOTE=DPKiller;50955969]Praticing the good ol reach around to get to the mic ehh? [ Nah I think shes a Realistic TRC-428 or somthing. *goes back into cave* Noooope I dont know anything about CB's or anything.[/QUOTE] You were correct. I tried to fit a Cobra in there but it was too long for the hole. (:v:) Mine is modified so the antenna connector is underneath and not at the back otherwise the heater box is in the way. The PA loudspeaker mode is rather nice though. Also the mic is there because I'm saving a space for a CarTel...or a car cradle for a satellite phone. [img]http://shop.windowscentral.com/images/product_images/accessories/additional_images/6027/large/1.jpg[/img]

I got the new radiator and radiator support in my car pretty painlessly. I had to bend the ac condenser/trans cooler back a little for it to fit, but it didnt leak. Unfortunately now the ac doesnt work. The compressor cycles, but sounds like its working too hard, like one of the lines in the condenser is kinked. I might try to bend it back down to un kink it, but theres a good chance ill break it and ill need a new one. Just wondering, if one of the transmission cooler lines are kinked, will the atf not flow where its supposed to, or will it just heat up quicker?

[QUOTE=Birdman101;50957605]I got the new radiator and radiator support in my car pretty painlessly. I had to bend the ac condenser/trans cooler back a little for it to fit, but it didnt leak. Unfortunately now the ac doesnt work. The compressor cycles, but sounds like its working too hard, like one of the lines in the condenser is kinked. I might try to bend it back down to un kink it, but theres a good chance ill break it and ill need a new one. Just wondering, if one of the transmission cooler lines are kinked, will the atf not flow where its supposed to, or will it just heat up quicker?[/QUOTE] Depends on the trans. 99% of the time the cooler lines are low pressure high volume right from the troque converter. I wouldn't even chance it even the slightest as the heat from the TC can fry your trans before you will have time to react.

[QUOTE=DPKiller;50957676]Depends on the trans. 99% of the time the cooler lines are low pressure high volume right from the troque converter. I wouldn't even chance it even the slightest as the heat from the TC can fry your trans before you will have time to react.[/QUOTE] Well i already drove it 60 miles to see my fiance, har har har. Guess ill order another condenser/trans cooler and ride my bike till then.

[QUOTE=Dr. Deeps;50955733]To be honest... any of them. I just want to get a diesel so I can get rid of this stupid 2014 Focus I bought and get back into a truck. I love Cummins personally, but the platform they're in is absolute junk between Dodge's front end and their transmissions. The LBZ Duramax is my secret go-to but I'm a Ford and Dodge kinda person. Basically whatever diesel comes up that I'm able to get financed for is the one I'll get as long as its in good shape. [editline]27th August 2016[/editline] I can only imagine what it's like up there for diesel's but I know down here in Arkansas every kid wants one so they can roll coal and look cool for their friends. I'm just trying to make power and go from point a to point b while also being able to tow whatever I want.[/QUOTE] When you buy a diesel you get what you pay for. Certain models go for an arm and a leg. Hmmm... okay let me put it this way. If you pay $5000 for a running and driving STOCK 6L ford (2003-2007) you have the [B]chance[/B] that the *insert pretty much anything to do with the engine* goes costing you $1000-5000 ultimately leading to you paying $10000 for a dependable truck. If you go with an old dodge (94-02) then you pay a little more ($7000-13000 for a real nice example) but you're also offsetting the fact that they will need very little work. The automatics go, but the manuals are bulletproof. The engine is 1200lbs and because of that the fronts do go on them. For a totally new front, doing it yourself, you're looking at under $2000. Thats upper and lowers, steering box, power steering pump, and the whole tie rod/drag link set up. Its not that they have bad fronts, its just that they're very frequently neglected. I'll give you a little guide: 94-96 12 valves: Fuel mileage: 20-25mpg stock, I've seen as high as 25-30mpg with mild mods on 2wd trucks. cheap, abundant, caveman simple. Interior is a little lackluster, otherwise good trucks. The engines dont make as much power as the later ones but they still have lots of potential 97: Bigger injection pumps (especially in the the manual), more power potential. 98: Best year, but really rare in a 12 valve. Updated interior, largest injection pump in a manual (makes tons of power), first year of the quad cab (4 opening doors) but last year of the 12 valve. If you can find a 12 valve, quad cab, 5 speed, you've got a unicorn. Best of the best. 98.5-99 24v: Fuel mileage: 10-13L/100km stock, 9-11L/100km modded first years of the 24v, few odd problems because its the first year of the 24v. No torque management on the automatics so they rip a little harder. There is an engine block called a 53 block, its is prone to cracking. Few have it, but just make sure if you're looking. 99-2002 24v: Fuel mileage: 10-13L/100km stock, 9-11L/100km modded starting in 2000 you can now get the trucks with 4 wheel discs and also in HO with a 6 speed. The 6 speed is virtually indestructible up to 800hp, but the engine doesn't have as much power potential for 600+, but better potential for torque under 600 (half the stuff gets swapped out anyways when you're hot rodding it). 99 is also the first year of the updated sport front clip. Best/rarest combo is a 2002 24v 6 Speed HO quad cab short box sport. 24v's are good engines, the injection pumps are prone to failure if you dont have a good fuel pump but if you install a FASS then you'll never have to worry about it. They cant make as much power as a 12v in stock form, but they are a lot cleaner and more tunable. Lemme know if you want to know about third gens (2003-2009) For fords: 93-97(???) OBS 7.3L Fuel mileage: not very good I hear. The only ford I look forward to finding later in a crewcab short box. They're pretty solid units, they have shit all for power but they're tough as nails. 97-2002 (???) 7.3L Fuel mileage: not a clue, not very good i hear Good trucks, the only ford I'd get in the new body style on account of the 7.3L. The interior feels huge as does the truck and its not exactly the prettiest, but the interior stuff straight up to 2015 bolts right in. [URL="tel:2003-2007 6"]2003-2007 6[/URL] Leaker Fuel mileage: 16L/100km stock, 10-14L/100km deleted Its honestly not [I]horrible[/I] provided you "bullet proof" it which can cost $5000+ to do properly. That involves EGR delete, headstuds, O ringed head, headgaskets, oil cooler delete, non vgt turbo (they like to go, but its not totally needed), new injectors ($2000), and a really good dual fuel filter kit. Even then you have stupid shit like the FICM, ECM, O rings, and all sorts of random shit that can go. If you cummins swap one, then you've got a good truck 2008-2011 6.4L Fuel mileage: 20L/100km stock, 12-14L/100km tuned/deleted. Actually worse than the 6.0L. Heaps of electrical problems, engine is a total lemon, even "bullet proofed" the headgaskets like to go on account of only using 4 headbolts per cylinder. I dont know them specifically as to what goes, I just know they're bad. On the plus side, with just a tune you can push 250hp more than stock haha Chevys! 19??-19?? 6.5L Gutless, full of problems, poor fuel mileage. No, just no. Before these were the 6.2L and one other, they aren't much better either. Ford lord can go into details but the trucks around the old diesels are trash. 2000-2003 LB7 Duramax Decent trucks, but the headgaskets and injectors like to go 2004-2005 LLY duramax They fixed the headgasket issue but the injectors are still prone to going 2006/2007 duramax Bullet proof, one of the best trucks out there, but expect a premium. Fuel mileage is all the same, 16-21L/100km stock, 9-11L/100km Thats the basics of them all. I know dodges better because thats what I'm used to, but I'm not totally bias towards them. They have there problems, as do the other trucks, you just pick which problems you want to deal with and whether you want to pay for them now (with a good truck), or later (with a bad truck that will need fixing/bulletproofing) If you want something cheap that you'll never have to drop more than $1000 into, 94-98 12 valve. Only thing you may have to do is steering components if it bothers you, and they dont have much for cab space. but they are cheap, fun, reliable, and make tons of power with ease

Dang, that's wicked informative. I was confused trying to figure out the conversion from metric to MPG for fuel mileage at first, but to be honest that is better than I was expecting, and it's only 10-15 mpg less than I get in my Focus now so that won't hurt too bad with a long commute.

[QUOTE=butre;50955730]I have AAA for that. free towing up to 100 miles is pretty rad when you buy a total roadkill car. just make up a story about why it's not going. tell them it just won't start. they'll say no if you tell them you bought beater turd that doesn't run. free cab too, next time you get shitfaced just pull some spark plug boots off and tell them it's running like shit[/QUOTE] I've used over 10 tows, helping out friends and what not or getting garbage towed back to my house. I've only once actually needed AAA and that was because I wrecked an OEM axle with a brand new clutch on the Civic in the DMV parking lot :v: Tow driver was super cool and slid the car back a little so we could look under the front before it even came off the truck because I figured it was a possibility the trans could have had a window instead because of the gravely noises. AAA is the best but here we have the tows limited to 3 a year per member on the plan, dunno if that's just an Oregon thing because AAA is different in each state.

So today. [quote="me"]Just lift it in and I'll strap it to the rollcage. Is it that heavy?[/quote] [quote]Yes, and it will make it too top heavy. There's no fuckin' way that's going to be lifted in. We have to put it on its side.[/quote] [quote="me"]But then I can't close the back. I can't be driving down the highway with my back swung open.[/quote] [quote]You have any more straps?[/quote] 20 minutes later: [IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/New%20Bucket/IMG_5686.jpg[/IMG] My suspension was aaaaaangry.

[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;50958188]When you buy a diesel you get what you pay for. Certain models go for an arm and a leg. Hmmm... okay let me put it this way. If you pay $5000 for a running and driving STOCK 6L ford (2003-2007) you have the [B]chance[/B] that the *insert pretty much anything to do with the engine* goes costing you $1000-5000 ultimately leading to you paying $10000 for a dependable truck. If you go with an old dodge (94-02) then you pay a little more ($7000-13000 for a real nice example) but you're also offsetting the fact that they will need very little work. The automatics go, but the manuals are bulletproof. The engine is 1200lbs and because of that the fronts do go on them. For a totally new front, doing it yourself, you're looking at under $2000. Thats upper and lowers, steering box, power steering pump, and the whole tie rod/drag link set up. Its not that they have bad fronts, its just that they're very frequently neglected. I'll give you a little guide: 94-96 12 valves: Fuel mileage: 20-25mpg stock, I've seen as high as 25-30mpg with mild mods on 2wd trucks. cheap, abundant, caveman simple. Interior is a little lackluster, otherwise good trucks. The engines dont make as much power as the later ones but they still have lots of potential 97: Bigger injection pumps (especially in the the manual), more power potential. 98: Best year, but really rare in a 12 valve. Updated interior, largest injection pump in a manual (makes tons of power), first year of the quad cab (4 opening doors) but last year of the 12 valve. If you can find a 12 valve, quad cab, 5 speed, you've got a unicorn. Best of the best. 98.5-99 24v: Fuel mileage: 10-13L/100km stock, 9-11L/100km modded first years of the 24v, few odd problems because its the first year of the 24v. No torque management on the automatics so they rip a little harder. There is an engine block called a 53 block, its is prone to cracking. Few have it, but just make sure if you're looking. 99-2002 24v: Fuel mileage: 10-13L/100km stock, 9-11L/100km modded starting in 2000 you can now get the trucks with 4 wheel discs and also in HO with a 6 speed. The 6 speed is virtually indestructible up to 800hp, but the engine doesn't have as much power potential for 600+, but better potential for torque under 600 (half the stuff gets swapped out anyways when you're hot rodding it). 99 is also the first year of the updated sport front clip. Best/rarest combo is a 2002 24v 6 Speed HO quad cab short box sport. 24v's are good engines, the injection pumps are prone to failure if you dont have a good fuel pump but if you install a FASS then you'll never have to worry about it. They cant make as much power as a 12v in stock form, but they are a lot cleaner and more tunable. Lemme know if you want to know about third gens (2003-2009) For fords: 93-97(???) OBS 7.3L Fuel mileage: not very good I hear. The only ford I look forward to finding later in a crewcab short box. They're pretty solid units, they have shit all for power but they're tough as nails. 97-2002 (???) 7.3L Fuel mileage: not a clue, not very good i hear Good trucks, the only ford I'd get in the new body style on account of the 7.3L. The interior feels huge as does the truck and its not exactly the prettiest, but the interior stuff straight up to 2015 bolts right in. [URL="tel:2003-2007 6"]2003-2007 6[/URL] Leaker Fuel mileage: 16L/100km stock, 10-14L/100km deleted Its honestly not [I]horrible[/I] provided you "bullet proof" it which can cost $5000+ to do properly. That involves EGR delete, headstuds, O ringed head, headgaskets, oil cooler delete, non vgt turbo (they like to go, but its not totally needed), new injectors ($2000), and a really good dual fuel filter kit. Even then you have stupid shit like the FICM, ECM, O rings, and all sorts of random shit that can go. If you cummins swap one, then you've got a good truck 2008-2011 6.4L Fuel mileage: 20L/100km stock, 12-14L/100km tuned/deleted. Actually worse than the 6.0L. Heaps of electrical problems, engine is a total lemon, even "bullet proofed" the headgaskets like to go on account of only using 4 headbolts per cylinder. I dont know them specifically as to what goes, I just know they're bad. On the plus side, with just a tune you can push 250hp more than stock haha Chevys! 19??-19?? 6.5L Gutless, full of problems, poor fuel mileage. No, just no. Before these were the 6.2L and one other, they aren't much better either. Ford lord can go into details but the trucks around the old diesels are trash. 2000-2003 LB7 Duramax Decent trucks, but the headgaskets and injectors like to go 2004-2005 LLY duramax They fixed the headgasket issue but the injectors are still prone to going 2006/2007 duramax Bullet proof, one of the best trucks out there, but expect a premium. Fuel mileage is all the same, 16-21L/100km stock, 9-11L/100km Thats the basics of them all. I know dodges better because thats what I'm used to, but I'm not totally bias towards them. They have there problems, as do the other trucks, you just pick which problems you want to deal with and whether you want to pay for them now (with a good truck), or later (with a bad truck that will need fixing/bulletproofing) If you want something cheap that you'll never have to drop more than $1000 into, 94-98 12 valve. Only thing you may have to do is steering components if it bothers you, and they dont have much for cab space. but they are cheap, fun, reliable, and make tons of power with ease[/QUOTE] The 7.3 diesels, completely depending on options, vary from 16-22mpg. Our 2000 crewcab, long bed, 6 speed got 18mpg. The 6.2/6.5 Detroits: there are TONS of myths on these motors, more myths than facts. The 6.2 is incredibly reliable, easy to get power out of, and gets 20-25mpg in most vehicles. The 6.2 mostly came in squarebodies, in anything from half ton 2wd trucks, to 1.25 ton CUCV's. The 6.5 is not as reliable, though most issues are preventable. MPG is in the 20mpg range. This only came in the newer bodies with IFS, which i HATE. These also came in anything from half tons, to one tons. I would choose a 6.2 over a 6.5, personally. Year range is 1982-1993 on 6.2, 1993-1999 for 6.5. These are still made today for the military. 1993 was a crossover year, a non-turbo 6.5 was available that one year.

Yeah I'm looking to make more power than you can get from a 6.2 or a 6.5. Wasn't even considering those tbh. [editline]27th August 2016[/editline] [QUOTE=pentium;50960820]So today. 20 minutes later: [IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/New%20Bucket/IMG_5686.jpg[/IMG] My suspension was aaaaaangry.[/QUOTE] What even is that?

A [del]vending machine[/del] new beer fridge. [IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/New%20Bucket/IMG_5693.jpg[/IMG] I managed to get home AFTER the rain so my car is soaked.

Moldy carpeting builds character.

Went to the EVE OF DESTRUCTION redneck races thing tonight to see my friend's old Corolla go ham. They had a burnout contest, and there was 3 contestants they decided needed to to a "burn off" since the audience cheers put them about even. One was a big Cummins Dodge Ram, it must've been built because when it built boost it popped like it had launch control, and just generally sounded beefy as hell. Tons of black smoke to compliment the white tire smoke, loud exhaust.. it was a good show. So a few seconds into his burnout he just stopped, and the only smoke coming out was a bunch of white smoke out the exhaust pipe :v: He limped it back into the pits and probably got the credit cards ready. But hey, it's all for laughs. As long as Valon's the diesel guy, what do you think man? No doubt running a pretty high boost and pushing it to the limit and probably bouncing redline (2k RPM lol). Did he blow a headgasket right then and there, or did he blow up the turbo and the smoke we were seeing was actually blue-ish from oil? Other possibilities?

[QUOTE=pentium;50960820]So today. 20 minutes later: [IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/New%20Bucket/IMG_5686.jpg[/IMG] My suspension was aaaaaangry.[/QUOTE] You fuck stick I want your tracker How much did you get it for? If I had the room for it and I wasnt saving for a house, I would love a mildly beat up tracker to use as a big offroad go kart that I can also haul stuff in.

If memory serves he's had it for eons. Kind of like everything else he owns, it's old, reliable, and proven to be good.

yeah first time I saw him make a post about it was like 6 years ago

Probably the longest anyone in AA has had a single vehicle :v: I've been through 4-5 since I first found y'all, I've just gotta keep this Focus for longer than usual since I financed it.

I've had my Silverado for 11 years now, I think I hold the record

[QUOTE=Dr. Deeps;50961644]Probably the longest anyone in AA has had a single vehicle :v: I've been through 4-5 since I first found y'all, I've just gotta keep this Focus for longer than usual since I financed it.[/QUOTE] You've made me realize I had my previous cars for a average of 2 years. Granted they were beaters, but my current car isn't. It's more a decent car that's been slightly neglected by PO and needs some TLC.

[QUOTE=butre;50961655]I've had my Silverado for 11 years now, I think I hold the record[/QUOTE] 11 years ago I was 11 so kinda hard for me to own a vehicle otherwise I would probably be there with you :v: [editline]28th August 2016[/editline] [QUOTE=Van-man;50961669]You've made me realize I had my previous cars for a average of 2 years. Granted they were beaters, but my current car isn't. It's more a decent car that's been slightly neglected by PO and needs some TLC.[/QUOTE] Mine lasted anywhere between 6-9 months and this is the current longest that i have had one vehicle. I love the car and all but I miss having a truck.

i had my 86 since 2010. still haven't driven it. it's k tho.