Automotive Addicts Lounge V4 - Lube my pistons, baby - General

[QUOTE=Slithers;49706656]Normally I would say avoid like the plague, to which Slayer would say that's a good car or something to that effect, but I don't think you can go wrong with at least having a look. The owner seems like he's cool, and it doesn't look like everything was hacked together. It sounds good too, unlike most Hondas.[/QUOTE] Haha its my car! Didn't feel like summerizing the whole build so I just linked my CL post. Thinking about getting a cts or maybe a 3 series beemer. Looking for a sedan... the honda was my toy for a while but now I want something a bit more spacious.

[QUOTE=alex-is-epic;49706548][url]http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/5440625226.html[/url] What do you guys think?[/QUOTE] needs more photos. something showing a side view.

[QUOTE=Slithers;49706656]Normally I would say avoid like the plague, to which Slayer would say that's a good car or something to that effect, but I don't think you can go wrong with at least having a look. The owner seems like he's cool, and it doesn't look like everything was hacked together. It sounds good too, unlike most Hondas.[/QUOTE] No such thing as a "Prelude Type-R", list it as a "Prelude Si F20B" or something. The F20B is also by no means good for 500whp. It's basically just a high comp H series vtec motor with less bore without the FRM suck. Also don't advertise how much you beat on it, if you do advertise that then buyers see it as even worse than a car that looks to be beat hard. Is that a real Hytech header? Those cost a shit ton. Otherwise there's a lot of nice parts on it, some of the aesthetic mods aren't to my personal taste but it's definitely pretty well done. Also, there's no pictures of the sides/wheels. [editline]9th February 2016[/editline] [QUOTE=alex-is-epic;49706748]Haha its my car! Didn't feel like summerizing the whole build so I just linked my CL post. Thinking about getting a cts or maybe a 3 series beemer. Looking for a sedan... the honda was my toy for a while but now I want something a bit more spacious.[/QUOTE] Part it out then and put it all into an Accord/Accord wagon :v:

[QUOTE=slayer3032;49706958]No such thing as a "Prelude Type-R", list it as a "Prelude Si F20B" or something. The F20B is also by no means good for 500whp. It's basically just a high comp H series vtec motor with less bore without the FRM suck. Also don't advertise how much you beat on it, if you do advertise that then buyers see it as even worse than a car that looks to be beat hard. Is that a real Hytech header? Those cost a shit ton. Otherwise there's a lot of nice parts on it, some of the aesthetic mods aren't to my personal taste but it's definitely pretty well done. Also, there's no pictures of the sides/wheels. [editline]9th February 2016[/editline] Part it out then and put it all into an Accord/Accord wagon :v:[/QUOTE] Much prefer F20's to H22's. Had so many problems with FRM wear under boost and no machine shop will touch them around my area. Apparently it eats up tooling. And yeah, I know there is no real Type-R prelude, but hey we can dream right? I think it looks the part mostly. At least I admitted in the ad it was an si.. lol. Yeah man the hytech header was bought from my buddy who had an NA h22a build that made almost 300whp. He was rear ended and parted out the car, I ended up with the header. I paid around 450$ for it, which was a lot at the time but I saw pretty quickly that I got a deal. I didn't have a side photo ready on my lappy, but I'll add one to the ad. Wanting to get away from FWD, too.

[QUOTE=alex-is-epic;49707107]Much prefer F20's to H22's. Had so many problems with FRM wear under boost and no machine shop will touch them around my area. Apparently it eats up tooling. And yeah, I know there is no real Type-R prelude, but hey we can dream right? I think it looks the part mostly. At least I admitted in the ad it was an si.. lol. Yeah man the hytech header was bought from my buddy who had an NA h22a build that made almost 300whp. He was rear ended and parted out the car, I ended up with the header. I paid around 450$ for it, which was a lot at the time but I saw pretty quickly that I got a deal. I didn't have a side photo ready on my lappy, but I'll add one to the ad. Wanting to get away from FWD, too.[/QUOTE] Oh don't get me wrong, the F20B is a much better motor IMO but it's also a significantly cheaper motor. Yeah it requires special tooling to do FRM and only machine shops which specialize in FRM can even like hone them. There's a reason S2000 parts are also worth their weight in gold. God damn steal on that Hytech, there really isn't anything better out there. I just dislike people listing like "JDM Type-R" EG Civics and LS Integras when they don't even have a rear swaybar, are stanced to shit and/or have front end damage caused just from being low, ect.

[QUOTE=slayer3032;49707308]Oh don't get me wrong, the F20B is a much better motor IMO but it's also a significantly cheaper motor. Yeah it requires special tooling to do FRM and only machine shops which specialize in FRM can even like hone them. There's a reason S2000 parts are also worth their weight in gold. God damn steal on that Hytech, there really isn't anything better out there. I just dislike people listing like "JDM Type-R" EG Civics and LS Integras when they don't even have a rear swaybar, are stanced to shit and/or have front end damage caused just from being low, ect.[/QUOTE] Totally agree, type-r is a bit rice. Unfortunately I enjoy this flavor of rice haha. F20b's are really cool. this is my first one. I don't understand the cheaper factor... type-s cams on a better flowing head and stronger block? count me in! Cheaper too is just icing on the cake.

[QUOTE=alex-is-epic;49707464]Totally agree, type-r is a bit rice. Unfortunately I enjoy this flavor of rice haha. F20b's are really cool. this is my first one. I don't understand the cheaper factor... type-s cams on a better flowing head and stronger block? count me in! Cheaper too is just icing on the cake.[/QUOTE] Well the F20B isn't the top of the line motor, it's sort of like trying to sell off a "Integra Type-R" when you have a B16A or something. It's also cheaper because it's out of the Accords which aren't worth nearly as much as a Prelude. Sort of also like how people want to say a $400 low comp B20B from a JDM SUV is a upgrade over the more expensive B18 motors. While they're better motors most people act as though they make the vehicle worth more or something. Same with people who do a B20 swap on a Civic with a blown motor even though it would be roughly the same price to swap it rather than rebuild/replace a D series.

Anyone here have one of those steering wheel knob things? I kinda want one. It's only like $5-$10 so I can't see it being that much of a waste if I get one.

We're going to have to sell the PT Cruiser in order to keep the family business afloat. I'm gonna miss that great little car :(

[QUOTE=dwt110;49710126]Anyone here have one of those steering wheel knob things? I kinda want one. It's only like $5-$10 so I can't see it being that much of a waste if I get one.[/QUOTE] speed knob. Yes, on tractors and big rigs they serve a purpose - also on things with weird ratio steering or no power steering. I'm sorry but I have to rate you tool. It's for your own good - it's because I care.

we call them suicide knobs around here. I've heard them called brodie knobs and honestly you should probably not use any car part named after a bridge jumper based on my experience with them they live up to that suicide name

Check your local laws. They may- probably are- be illegal to have installed in a non semi, tractor, fork lift, or heavy machinery.

Lol why in the world would you want one on there?? I drive/steer one handed a lot and haven't ever found myself wishing I was so equipped. Also.. someone pls buy this; [url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/321997696170?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT[/url] Even at $2500 if it's rust free that's a screamin deal. My roommate wants in but doesn't want to deal with getting it here :v:

[QUOTE=Code3Response;49710922]Check your local laws. They may- probably are- be illegal to have installed in a non semi, tractor, fork lift, or heavy machinery.[/QUOTE] They're legal if you're handicapped. I have a buddy who's a paraplegic and he has to use one due to his hands often being tied up by his hand controls. Makes it really easy for him to grab the wheel when he needs to turn. If you're not handicapped or driving a forklift they're useless.

So my girlfriends car was for the biyearly inspection, and they found 12 type 2 faults. An hour later her grandma tells her she will buy a new car for about $18k. (well nowadays it's more like 11k but the car price is the same) And I really wish we had the car prices you guys had, because if you need a regular car, that money gets you [I]nowhere[/I]. She'll most likely end up with a regular old Polo or Golf, and it wont even be one of the new good looking ones. At least I'll probably get to drive the everloving shit out of her old car before we wreck it.

$18k? That's a ton of money, you can buy a lot of car for that. [editline]10th February 2016[/editline] You can buy a practically new car for that.

It's just 11k because of the fucking oil, but that used to be about 18k. So in other words 100 000 nok. [editline]10th February 2016[/editline] I might be looking in the wrong places though. Got any suggestions?

[QUOTE=Oscar Lima Echo;49712662]It's just 11k because of the fucking oil, but that used to be about 18k. So in other words 100 000 nok. [editline]10th February 2016[/editline] I might be looking in the wrong places though. Got any suggestions?[/QUOTE] ....finn.no? Also floor in progress. [t]http://puu.sh/n30Im.jpg[/t] Floor welded in. The water is from the cooling of the spot welder. [t]http://puu.sh/n30IC.jpg[/t]

I'm enjoying this rust repair progress.

Welp after i fix my car a new missfire is happening. P0300. The car behaves wierd when idle. It's like it's struggeling to stay on but it fails after a while. [URL="https://www.dropbox.com/s/j9i6sni5ritn358/2016-02-10%2017.53.29.mov?dl=0"]Video[/URL]

[QUOTE=Bucketboy;49713569]Welp after i fix my car a new missfire is happening. P0300. The car behaves wierd when idle. It's like it's struggeling to stay on but it fails after a while. [URL="https://www.dropbox.com/s/j9i6sni5ritn358/2016-02-10%2017.53.29.mov?dl=0"]Video[/URL][/QUOTE] Random cylinder misfire. Can be caused by all sorts of things. I'd start with your plug/wires(or coil packs, dizzy, whatever your car has)/vacuum leaks.

Jeep had misfires in the back two cylinders for a good month before I finally figured out that the dipshit who was under the hood never tightened the bolts on the intake. They weren't even hand-tight.

[QUOTE=Bucketboy;49713569]Welp after i fix my car a new missfire is happening. P0300. The car behaves wierd when idle. It's like it's struggeling to stay on but it fails after a while. [URL="https://www.dropbox.com/s/j9i6sni5ritn358/2016-02-10%2017.53.29.mov?dl=0"]Video[/URL][/QUOTE] have you ever cleaned the throttle body of your car? This also happens with VWs when you unplug the throttle body for cleaning and then dont do the self learning thing to re-align the trottle body

[QUOTE=Aetna;49713600]Random cylinder misfire. Can be caused by all sorts of things. I'd start with your plug/wires(or coil packs, dizzy, whatever your car has)/vacuum leaks.[/QUOTE] I just put 4 new coils ( Saab Originals ) on the car. That shit happens when standing idle. While driving it's as smooth as it can get, like normal. And as you can see how the lights fades and goes back.

[QUOTE=Bucketboy;49713763]I just put 4 new coils ( Saab Originals ) on the car. That shit happens when standing idle. While driving it's as smooth as it can get, like normal. And as you can see how the lights fades and goes back.[/QUOTE] Then I'd check for vacuum leaks. Those symptoms aren't electrical.

[QUOTE=S31-Syntax;49713825]Then I'd check for vacuum leaks. Those symptoms aren't electrical.[/QUOTE] Agreed. When you're actually driving the car the level of vacuum is increased enough to eliminate the symptoms. At idle there is less air and the vacuum leak becomes apparent. Your lights are dimming because the car is idling low/poorly causing the battery's voltage to droop, it's not an electrical issue. Grab yourself some throttle body or carb cleaner, and with the car running, blast small sprays over your vacuum lines and connectors. Be patient and take your time, when you hit the leak with the cleaner the motor will burn the ethanol you're spraying and it'll rev up a bit. Check all along the intake, working your way towards the motor. A lot of times elbow/accordion boots form tiny cracks that aren't really noticeable until you stretch them out.

[QUOTE=Code3Response;49710922]Check your local laws. They may- probably are- be illegal to have installed in a non semi, tractor, fork lift, or heavy machinery.[/QUOTE] Brody/Suicide knobs are legal to use in private and commercial automobiles in nearly every state. If you drive a commercial vehicle, your employer will likely restrict the use of them, however it is still legal. [url]http://www.ehow.com/list_7540144_laws-regarding-spinner-knobs.html[/url] [url]https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brodie_knob[/url] [url]http://www.suicideknob.net/state_laws.html[/url] Edit; I've been driving on the tripometer gauge for a while now and only have one issue. 0-60MPH works great, it's accurate within 1MPH with little/no stutters. At about 65MPH, it ends up 'floating' and dropping to read 10MPH faster than I am going. It stays that way until I slow to 60 again. Everything else works great on the gauge, my old one didn't do this. I don't know a ton about speedometers, just the general idea of the rotating magnet making a field to rotate the cup to rotate the needle which winds the spring. Which is why I'm not sure what part of that would let it float at 65+, but go back to normal at 60?

I was opening a taurus for a customer today and this sticker residue caught my eye.. [t]http://i.imgur.com/jjDQKwK.jpg[/t]

[QUOTE=Amplar;49715971]I was opening a taurus for a customer today and this sticker residue caught my eye.. [/QUOTE] That reminds me, I still need to remove the resodue from my trucks inspection sticker. This state hasn't done stickers in years. Felt great taking the one off my car.

Few questions: Is the G1W or whatever it is called now still the best budget dash cam? And what's a reliable place to get one? And what is a good wireless OBD2 reader and app for iOS? The most popular reader seems to be android only and all the other readers and apps for iOS have spotty reviews.