Automotive Addicts Lounge V4 - Lube my pistons, baby - General

[video=youtube;J8A0OZnMbuc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J8A0OZnMbuc[/video] MCM is doing a C900! Finally!

3rd and final. Your TC seal, TC or your Front pump seal is gone. Yank that trans off, see watcha have there and it will be simple as pie. Don't get discouraged because "oooooits a transmission" The scary parts appear not to be the issue.

[QUOTE=SilentOpp;49839881]Sounds like a cracked torque converter or really bad front pump seal. The torque converter is leaking out all of it's fluid when you shut the engine off, and a full converter is required for an automatic to move. If the crack isn't that big, the converter will eventually fill and begin to transfer power to the transmission, which yours is doing. I would stop driving it though, you are liable to do real damage to the transmission once that trans finally runs out of fluid. This happens all the damn time when someone doesn't torque the nuts down to spec on the torque converter where the studs pass through the flexplatel. Easy fix, replace the pump seal or the cracked torque converter. Provided you didn't run it out of fluid it shouldn't need further transmission work. The hardest part of the job is dropping the y pipe, I recommend having a helping hand and removing the transmission crossmember first.. You'll need to remove driveshafts, trans crossmember, transfer case, exhaust, etc, so you can pull the transmission away from the block. The AOD and E4OD are heavy pigs but even a harbor freight tranny jack can handle it.[/QUOTE] [QUOTE=DPKiller;49840765]3rd and final. Your TC seal, TC or your Front pump seal is gone. Yank that trans off, see watcha have there and it will be simple as pie. Don't get discouraged because "oooooits a transmission" The scary parts appear not to be the issue.[/QUOTE] Awesome thanks for the help guys, I guess I'll start lifting up the truck and getting messy. Quick question: Does the engine need to be running to check the trans fluid or just warmed up?

I really sorta want to pick this up, I like how they look and it would be nice to deliver pizzas with: [url]http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/5459543297.html[/url] Shit pictures but I just spoke to the guy over the phone and got some more in depth info. I'd have to check it out but I don't see any red flags so far. [editline]29th February 2016[/editline] I could Mazda 121 conversion it

My aunt is telling me that her friend has a 2007 Pontiac Grand Am for sale for $1000, old lady owned with 80k miles. As far as I know, the Grand Am stopped production in 2005, so it might actually be a Grand Prix. Thoughts?

[QUOTE=Cpt.Funkymonk;49840903]Awesome thanks for the help guys, I guess I'll start lifting up the truck and getting messy. Quick question: Does the engine need to be running to check the trans fluid or just warmed up?[/QUOTE] Not sure if you have the AOD or the E4OD in your truck, but either should be checked with the engine running and transmission warm while parked on a level surface.

[QUOTE=Birdman101;49839943]oh, all right ...yeah it totally is. [t]http://i.imgur.com/4WEctvU.png[/t] And my least favorite thing about this is you cant do a single bit of research on exhaust systems without seeing at least 20 conversations that go like this: dumbass: hey guis i herd frommy fredn taht if i cut off my cats it adds 50 hp. it dis true!?!?!?! shithead: NOOOOO DONT TOUCH THE CATS IF YOU EVEN DO ANYTHING ITS [B][I][U]HIGHLY ILLEGAL[/U][/I][/B] AND THE EPA ARE GONNA ARREST YOU AND FINE YOU $25,000 DOLLARS YOU POLLUTING SCUM!!!!!!! THINK OF THE POLLUTION!!!!!!!!!![/QUOTE] just pull it out and replace then. or go test pipe and get a fake downstream o2

[QUOTE=SilentOpp;49841345]Not sure if you have the AOD or the E4OD in your truck, but either should be checked with the engine running and transmission warm while parked on a level surface.[/QUOTE] And if it did need an additional half quart should that be done while the truck is running too?

You can add fluid running or non running, no problem there. Remember to let it sit for a little bit to allow all the fluid to run down the wall of the dipstick tube, otherwise it throws off the reading / makes it impossible to read right.

[QUOTE=butre;49841404]just pull it out and replace then. or go test pipe and get a fake downstream o2[/QUOTE] I bought this thing a long time back and it didn't work on my Integra, supposedly they work great on like Mustangs and Subarus. I paid like $40 for it then bought a little project box and wired it to a Honda o2 plug. I'd sell it for like $20 shipped. Bought it from here if anyone is interested in what it is. [url]http://web.archive.org/web/20120724084401/http://www.ubertechnics.com/o2_simulator_2.5.aspx[/url] [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/Craigslist/2014-01-16%2001.49.42.jpg[/t][t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/Craigslist/2014-01-16%2001.50.04.jpg[/t]

[QUOTE=clutch2;49841457]You can add fluid running or non running, no problem there. Remember to let it sit for a little bit to allow all the fluid to run down the wall of the dipstick tube, otherwise it throws off the reading / makes it impossible to read right.[/QUOTE] Sorry to be so annoying, So I checked the fluids, properly this time. I was low on fluid, I added about 3/4 of a quart of ATF (The proper kind). I put it into drive and it started to creep forward (Which it didn't do earlier). It's still leaking, at a fairly rapid rate. Does this mean it's just a seal? or could the Torque Converter still be damaged?

Hi guys new here, Anyways this is my vehicle I bought it about 2 years ago at 65k got 81 on it now and I'm trying to change the transmission and diff fluid and I'm looking for a plastic tube pump thing couldn't find one at advanced auto, homedepot or walmart does anyone know where to get this fluid pump thing I'm talking about. [t]http://i.imgur.com/CTd6PT4.jpg[/t]

[QUOTE=Jagur;49841769]Hi guys new here, Anyways this is my vehicle I bought it about 2 years ago at 65k got 81 on it now and I'm trying to change the transmission and diff fluid and I'm looking for a plastic tube pump thing couldn't find one at advanced auto, homedepot or walmart does anyone know where to get this fluid pump thing I'm talking about. [t]http://i.imgur.com/CTd6PT4.jpg[/t][/QUOTE] Harbor Freight fluid transfer pump?

[QUOTE=Cpt.Funkymonk;49841693]Sorry to be so annoying, So I checked the fluids, properly this time. I was low on fluid, I added about 3/4 of a quart of ATF (The proper kind). I put it into drive and it started to creep forward (Which it didn't do earlier). It's still leaking, at a fairly rapid rate. Does this mean it's just a seal? or could the Torque Converter still be damaged?[/QUOTE] Its all a guess until you pop her open and blow her load. Your not looking at much money wise. Within a sub 150$ range. But the most time consuming thing is pulling your trans along with your 4x4. Something that you don't see in front of your eyes if magically make a quart dissapear and magically make a quart of Lucas trans stopleak appear in your trans. It will boost trans pressure and 2 magically help any other seals that might not like you..... You will still probably have to take her apart. [editline]1st March 2016[/editline] [QUOTE=Jagur;49841769]Hi guys new here, Anyways this is my vehicle I bought it about 2 years ago at 65k got 81 on it now and I'm trying to change the transmission and diff fluid and I'm looking for a plastic tube pump thing couldn't find one at advanced auto, homedepot or walmart does anyone know where to get this fluid pump thing I'm talking about. [t]http://i.imgur.com/CTd6PT4.jpg[/t][/QUOTE] [sp]penis pumps work great. It appears you already have one judging by your car.[/sp] Oriellys doessss. [url]http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PFM0/W1145/N0410.oap?ck=Search_N0410_-1_1831&pt=N0410&ppt=C0139[/url] Used it before. Its okay. Wish I did not ruin my VW CIS-E fuel pump....... That bitch pumped like a madman and did not give a single fuck what it pumped. (Don't permanently convert one into a water fountain)

Got my engine up on a stand instead of just sitting on blocks now. It's nice to know that putting a slant on an engine stand is totally possible - yes it does lean over the stand a bit. It is solid though. [URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/225%20Rebuild%20project/IMG_20160229_180815663_zpsfaaezmut.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/225%20Rebuild%20project/IMG_20160229_180815663_zpsfaaezmut.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Got some goodies too. [URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/225%20Rebuild%20project/IMG_20160229_190636729_zpsix9ajnni.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/225%20Rebuild%20project/IMG_20160229_190636729_zpsix9ajnni.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

ARP headstuds, O ringed head, billet bottom end, roller cam and rockers, push 50 psi of boost through that bitch! ... and maybe then you'll make as much power as a stock 440 ;) In all honesty have you considered throwing a set of 4.55 gears or something flat retarded like that (at the least 3.55s)? It'd really wake up the car. 2.76 to 4.10s in my cousin's dart was a whole other animal, but I dont think the 7 1/4 can take much, dakota rears, maveric ford 9", or mustang 8.8s are pretty cheap popular replacements [thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsjagbxf55.jpeg[/thumb] Got a set of 275/60/R15 M/T ET Street tires for the duster (28/10.5/R15). Housing ends will be in in a week and I'm gonna order 4 wheel wilwoods tomorrow

Think I found a nice cruise speed. It's been siting there at 28.4 for the past hour. [t]http://i.imgur.com/P84ugsy.jpg[/t] Not bad fo a big old V8 with a 4-speed.

Serj what did your Slant make on the dyno the last time youy ran it? Gah wiring harness time,figuring on just replacing it all and getting rid of the stuff people have "customized" previously.

[QUOTE=ToastedBread;49841318]My aunt is telling me that her friend has a 2007 Pontiac Grand Am for sale for $1000, old lady owned with 80k miles. As far as I know, the Grand Am stopped production in 2005, so it might actually be a Grand Prix. Thoughts?[/QUOTE] You should check it out, those cars look like they sold for a lot more than that.

So my dad and I replaced the springs in my sisters Commadore. [T]https://scontent.fmel1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpl1/v/t1.0-9/12799158_1735233880025623_2631142868694233318_n.jpg?oh=98b87649ab6c4e0d65323d958b250fea&oe=5754AAA7[/T] Yeah, I don't think they sprung much anymore. And the dealer had the audacity to say they were 'professionally lowered'.

Something I've noticed is that you guys seem to buy 200k mile cars no problem, is this considered normal? For example cars here in the Netherlands with 125k miles are considered worn out. Because of my racing hobby I don't really have the money for a daily driver but I would like a BMW E46 or something cheap like that. I can find some decent ones for sure, but most of them with 175k-200k miles on em.

the REAL way to lower any commodore [t]http://static.productreview.com.au/pr.products/142020_makita_9565h_125mm_angle_grinder.jpg[/t] related, I hate it when you go over a speed bump too fast in a lowered commodore and the springs in the rear fall out

[QUOTE=Strontboer;49843226]Something I've noticed is that you guys seem to buy 200k mile cars no problem, is this considered normal? For example cars here in the Netherlands with 125k miles are considered worn out. Because of my racing hobby I don't really have the money for a daily driver but I would like a BMW E46 or something cheap like that. I can find some decent ones for sure, but most of them with 175k-200k miles on em.[/QUOTE] I'm to the point it's probably easier to name the things I haven't replaced on my 180k mile Civic. While very little of it overall was absolutely required I would only now would happily drive it across the country at a moments notice. Metal doesn't wear out though(shh salt doesn't exist here), I'd happily drive something with 500k. Since you race I'd assume that they're prepped with fresh bushings, ball joints, steering components, brakes or anything rubber, ect. After around 200k miles you're basically just looking at those items wearing out on any car. I'd expect things like ball joints or bearings to fail where the OEM parts wouldn't on a 75k mile car. Another thing which might show up are issues with the luxuries have like power steering, ABS, climate controls, electric windows or other fancy BMW features/systems. All of this is of course ignoring any sort of powertrain wear which would be expected. I assume you wrench on your cars, if you get something for a good price and it was well taken car of I don't see why anything with 200k miles is anything to be worried about provided inspect you it well. While maintaining a higher mileage car can sometimes be expensive for the average person, parts really aren't that expensive and spending $1000 in labor for a $20 part to be replaced will always be $20.

The only high mile vehicles I buy are diesels, anywhere from 300k km to 500k km they've all more or less ran the same. The old 12 and 24 valve cummins diesels go to 700-1mil km easily with it not being all to uncommon to hit a million -miles- on US examples on the stock engine. The nice thing about an older vehicle is if there was any common things that go on them or issues, they've been changed out. [editline]1st March 2016[/editline] All about doing your research and knowing what to look for

[QUOTE=Strontboer;49843226]Something I've noticed is that you guys seem to buy 200k mile cars no problem, is this considered normal? For example cars here in the Netherlands with 125k miles are considered worn out. Because of my racing hobby I don't really have the money for a daily driver but I would like a BMW E46 or something cheap like that. I can find some decent ones for sure, but most of them with 175k-200k miles on em.[/QUOTE] you can get away with it in areas with lots of paved highways and not much stop and go traffic. if the car has an hour meter check that instead of worrying about mileage [editline]1st March 2016[/editline] for example my daily driver truck has 290k on it but about 270k of it was on the highway. hardly anything has been replaced in it. some dash switches are a little wonky and the gauges don't work and it pulls right when you go on the brakes but literally everything else about it is working oem parts

[QUOTE=Strontboer;49843226]Something I've noticed is that you guys seem to buy 200k mile cars no problem, is this considered normal? For example cars here in the Netherlands with 125k miles are considered worn out. Because of my racing hobby I don't really have the money for a daily driver but I would like a BMW E46 or something cheap like that. I can find some decent ones for sure, but most of them with 175k-200k miles on em.[/QUOTE] On a chevy standpoint of the ol' GMT400 chassis. Aslong as she has not been used for a tow rig her entire life mainly you only gonna have to worry about breaks,suspension,trans, and tidbits around the motor. Even though the motor is not a roller cam its still very hard to fucking kill one under normal driving conditions wile maintaining it. Now the new chevy's with the 4.3 5.3's 6.0's and 6.2's. (LS based) now thoes you will eventually have emissions issues,tidbits around motor issues, possibly a rare case of the cylinder deactivation crap going wonky. But generally these newer ones are built tougher in the drive train area then ever. I would not EVER second guess my self buying another (already have 3 why stop now) 250k+ mile chevy...But then again I live in Texas, no salt and only mud.

[QUOTE=Trekintosh;49842060]Think I found a nice cruise speed. It's been siting there at 28.4 for the past hour. [t]http://i.imgur.com/P84ugsy.jpg[/t] Not bad fo a big old V8 with a 4-speed.[/QUOTE] IIRC between 55 and 65MPH is considered highway speed and is where your engine is most efficient.

Yeah I guess that makes sense. I mean I'm not completely new to reparing cars. Altough unlike most people I learned it all from racing, instead of learning it from my first daily drivers. I guess it should be safe to widen my search horizon a bit, maybe look at 200-250K mile beamers. I guess problems wouldn't be that hard since I littrely know the E36 and E46 inside out. I can dream every panel, bolt and nut on those cars :v:

Psh then you're set man. Honestly there's only around 5 things I worry about on a high mileage car. 1. Rust. This is obvious if it's bad or not. Around here rust kills all the good Hondas, Toyotas, etc. They're running strong but unsafe because of structural compromise at the suspension mounting points. 2. Interior 'quality'.. again, obvious. I can't stand something that looks like it's obviously got 250k on it and every seat and panel is shredded and cracked. Doesn't effect the car's reliability of course. 3. Nickel and dimed from maintenance. At that mileage it's ripe to need every motor mount, ball joint, suspension bushing, etc replaced. A DIY'er doesn't need to worry quite as much since bushings and such are cheap, and doing the work yourself is free, lol. 4. Engine history. This one's obvious. A higher mileage engine like 200k+ can be a time bomb if it wasn't properly cared for. My Corollabortion has 232k miles right now and I trust it completely because I know my dad (first owner) always changed the oil at 3k, and now I do, and it was never beat on, etc. However not knowing the history can be a gamble.. but a BMW straight 6 is a pretty solid engine that I wouldn't worry that much about. Worst case, new engine goes in. 5. Transmission. This is more for automatics. It's about the same case as the engine.. if it's been beaten / neglected it can be a time bomb. A manual either has good synchros or one's that have been beat and are worn by this point, generally. Once again.. worst case is stuff a new trans in. That's the main stuff I take in mind with high mileage cars. History / previous owners is everything.

[QUOTE=Strontboer;49843226]Something I've noticed is that you guys seem to buy 200k mile cars no problem, is this considered normal? For example cars here in the Netherlands with 125k miles are considered worn out. Because of my racing hobby I don't really have the money for a daily driver but I would like a BMW E46 or something cheap like that. I can find some decent ones for sure, but most of them with 175k-200k miles on em.[/QUOTE] It depends a lot on the vehicle, to me. A diesel or a Subaru, 200k isn't bad at all. Classic cars where the mileage is unknown, if it looks good, sounds good, I go for it. Other vehicles, it's really a case by case basis. We had an Isuzu Rodeo with a shot trans at 150k miles, an 02 Camaro with 100k or so that was a theft recovery and hacked together (bent axle tube, wrong year steering column, etc.) also had failing cat converters.