Automotive Addicts Lounge V4 - Lube my pistons, baby
5,001 replies, posted
theres also a ~myth~ that I have no idea is right, that oiled filters can affect MAF sensors over a long time
you're really not going to see a noticeable difference with a fancy air intake on a 120hp motor
[editline]2nd March 2016[/editline]
spending money on some suspension goodies will see you better off in a miata
[QUOTE=rampageturke 2;49853858]theres also a ~myth~ that I have no idea is right, that oiled filters can affect MAF sensors over a long time
you're really not going to see a noticeable difference with a fancy air intake on a 120hp motor
[editline]2nd March 2016[/editline]
spending money on some suspension goodies will see you better off in a miata[/QUOTE]
Oiled filters are not really recommended with MAF sensors, I don't imagine that you'd have to do anything other than spray down your MAF with MAF cleaner every 3-5k miles though if you cared.
[editline]2nd March 2016[/editline]
K&N filters really won't add any power vs the average higher quality paper filter. The only filter that you could drop in that will actually add power would be something along the lines of a UNI filter which is a proper high flow foam filter. They're also amazing for jamming into extremely tight turbo setups where you need a flexible filter.
They don't filter fine particulates nor do they last for years upon years though.
[editline]2nd March 2016[/editline]
More power would probably be found through minimizing heatsoak though as well. Wrapping your exhaust, using a non-thermally conductive intake manifold gasket and deleting any coolant lines to keep the intake manifold cool would help a good bit. Putting a cold air intake on something which heats the balls out of the IATs anyways isn't probably going to help much unless you have a high quality intake which was actually tuned for your setup.
This would all really depend on how well your ECU corrects for IATs though as it's really possible that you could do a ton of "bolt-ons" and find 1hp or even loose hp.
Does anyone know if the roadkill on demand url still work? I knew it worked for at least two ep's.
[editline]3rd March 2016[/editline]
goddamnit and I cant even find the url here on the forum.
fgikjgkhghgfhdsgjhf
I'm just gonna sit here, cry to myself and wish I was some 30yearold that got sponsored to do things halfass and make a video about it.
[QUOTE=Bucketboy;49852018]It's a 2003 9-3 SS.[/QUOTE]
Just throw the filter in there then. It's a turbo car; IATs mean fuck all as long as the intercooler is doing its job. It'll sound better at least.
[url]https://cleveland.craigslist.org/cto/5458339406.html[/url]
The 80's is really tempting with this one.
[QUOTE=DuCT;49856028][url]https://cleveland.craigslist.org/cto/5458339406.html[/url]
The 80's is really tempting with this one.[/QUOTE]
I don't like the way those 300ZXs look. I love the Z32s and I love most of the other 80s cars like the RX-7, Supra, AE86, etc. but I can't stand the Z31.
[editline]3rd March 2016[/editline]
I really wanna buy a project car but it's probably useless since I'm gonna be leaving for college in a few months. After I get my tax refund in a few weeks I'll have about $2700 which should be plenty to buy a bad idea car and have enough leftover.
this looks like a pretty cheap terrible idea
[URL="https://newyork.craigslist.org/lgi/cto/5439849157.html"]https://newyork.craigslist.org/lgi/cto/5439849157.html[/URL]
360,000 city miles? maybe he means highway?
From what i've gathered, mid 90's BMW is a no go
Don't quote me on that though, I'm not a BMW expert and i'm just going off of what other people have told me.
mid 90s bmws are strong as hell though?
regularly see them with 500k+ km over here without big problems.
yeah as long as you're not buying an m mid 90s bmws will last 300k miles easy
[editline]3rd March 2016[/editline]
[QUOTE=dwt110;49856221]I don't like the way those 300ZXs look. I love the Z32s and I love most of the other 80s cars like the RX-7, Supra, AE86, etc. but I can't stand the Z31.
[editline]3rd March 2016[/editline]
I really wanna buy a project car but it's probably useless since I'm gonna be leaving for college in a few months. After I get my tax refund in a few weeks I'll have about $2700 which should be plenty to buy a bad idea car and have enough leftover.
this looks like a pretty cheap terrible idea
[URL="https://newyork.craigslist.org/lgi/cto/5439849157.html"]https://newyork.craigslist.org/lgi/cto/5439849157.html[/URL]
360,000 city miles? maybe he means highway?[/QUOTE]
if you go look at it pay attention to the brake pedal. if it's worn out real bad then it is city and not highway
[QUOTE=DPKiller;49855272]Does anyone know if the roadkill on demand url still work? I knew it worked for at least two ep's.
[editline]3rd March 2016[/editline]
goddamnit and I cant even find the url here on the forum.
fgikjgkhghgfhdsgjhf
I'm just gonna sit here, cry to myself and wish I was some 30yearold that got sponsored to do things halfass and make a video about it.[/QUOTE]
If you find it let me know, Ive been looking too.
[QUOTE=Psygo;49856997]mid 90s bmws are strong as hell though?
regularly see them with 500k+ km over here without big problems.[/QUOTE]
Are you saying Beemers are strong as hell?
Unbreakable?
They live, dammit?
The only way to kill an old German car is by not doing scheduled maintenance, which usually kills it very quickly. That BMW is worth buying, but in my opinion $1200 is a bit of a stretch.
Does anyone know here know car electronics well enough to help me? I need to override a safety switch on a Automatic 1973 BMW so I can start it in any gear. I have reasons to believe that the safety switch is busted and I would like to confirm it. ( I would also like to just drive the damn thing again )
These might be useful, please excuse me for them being in Dutch;
[t]http://puu.sh/ntrXE/1b6a221e63.png[/t][t]http://puu.sh/nts5c/daf7c8865f.png[/t]
[t]http://puu.sh/nts9D/adea144b76.png[/t][t]http://puu.sh/ntsc0/9695977d37.png[/t]
Also a link to the PDF file:
[url]https://www.dropbox.com/s/j9pr10xiq8kcqt5/BMW-E12-vraagbaak-4-4.pdf?dl=0[/url]
Electric stuff starts at page 23/47
[QUOTE=rampageturke 2;49853858]theres also a ~myth~ that I have no idea is right, that oiled filters can affect MAF sensors over a long time
you're really not going to see a noticeable difference with a fancy air intake on a 120hp motor
[editline]2nd March 2016[/editline]
spending money on some suspension goodies will see you better off in a miata[/QUOTE]
Oiled filters can cause MAF issues, though it can be avoided by oiling the filter lighter. The heavier the oiling, the more gets sucked into the engine until it soaks into the filter.
You can tell if you've oiled too much, as it will actually leave a film of oil in the intake.
[QUOTE=FordLord;49859833]Oiled filters can cause MAF issues, though it can be avoided by oiling the filter lighter. The heavier the oiling, the more gets sucked into the engine until it soaks into the filter.
You can tell if you've oiled too much, as it will actually leave a film of oil in the intake.[/QUOTE]
I'm glad I know that it's a legit issue now, the last car I had that I got an oiled filter on (was actually switching from a shitty cone filter back to standard airbox) had a MAP sensor instead of a MAF, does it cause issues there also?
removed the ugly stickers and headlight tint. aaaaaand the check engine light came on. waited one day too late to take it to inspection.
cant wait for it to get warm out so I can start fixing the paint. looks way better in pics than person.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/82w3pqY.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/vbwwsJv.jpg[/t]
BMW wagons look so much better than the sedans IMO. They're proportioned just about perfectly.
[QUOTE=Timezbrick;49859011]Does anyone know here know car electronics well enough to help me? I need to override a safety switch on a Automatic 1973 BMW so I can start it in any gear. I have reasons to believe that the safety switch is busted and I would like to confirm it. ( I would also like to just drive the damn thing again )
These might be useful, please excuse me for them being in Dutch;
[t]http://puu.sh/ntrXE/1b6a221e63.png[/t][t]http://puu.sh/nts5c/daf7c8865f.png[/t]
[t]http://puu.sh/nts9D/adea144b76.png[/t][t]http://puu.sh/ntsc0/9695977d37.png[/t]
Also a link to the PDF file:
[url]https://www.dropbox.com/s/j9pr10xiq8kcqt5/BMW-E12-vraagbaak-4-4.pdf?dl=0[/url]
Electric stuff starts at page 23/47[/QUOTE]
I have a better chance of translating arabic than i do reading this
[QUOTE=rampageturke 2;49860171]I'm glad I know that it's a legit issue now, the last car I had that I got an oiled filter on (was actually switching from a shitty cone filter back to standard airbox) had a MAP sensor instead of a MAF, does it cause issues there also?[/QUOTE]
Map sensors are usually located far off on a vacuum line or mounted on something that is separated by a passage, maybe if you poured oil directly into it but they're not a very complicated or sensitive sensor like a MAF is.
Ground the brown/black wire at the starter relay, or at the trans range switch, which ever is easier. That's what it looks like to me, anywho.
Otherwise.. find the starter relay. You should have 4 populated wires to mess with. 1, maybe 2 will go to 12v when turning the key to 'start'. If 2 don't go to 12v, one is probably constant 12v (although from what I see, both contacts should go to 12v at start). One will lead from the relay to the starter itself (and if you jump between the switched 12v wires and this contact, it will crank), and one will go to the trans range switch. You want to ground the one that leads to the trans range switch.
Alternatively, as long as there are TWO switched 12v starter wires at the relay, you can jump between one of them and the wire that leads directly to the starter itself. It's probably the 2 thicker wires, if there are size differences.
[QUOTE=Trekintosh;49861294]BMW wagons look so much better than the sedans IMO. They're proportioned just about perfectly.[/QUOTE]
The late 90's early 2000's M5 wagon makes my nether regions feel really good.
[t]https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/ed/67/19/ed6719b7867b8a167639abd12afc71e9.jpg[/t]
hnnnnnnnn
[QUOTE=Slithers;49858282]The only way to kill an old German car is by not doing scheduled maintenance, which usually kills it very quickly. That BMW is worth buying, but in my opinion $1200 is a bit of a stretch.[/QUOTE]
no clue what you're talking about, we haven't changed oil in my dads e34 520i for the last 100k km, and we've run it nearly empty for a long time, little bit of slapping from the chain otherwise it's good. filled it back up haven't heard it since. though it does burn a lot of oil now.
[QUOTE=VOSK;49865526]The late 90's early 2000's M5 wagon makes my nether regions feel really good.
[t]https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/ed/67/19/ed6719b7867b8a167639abd12afc71e9.jpg[/t]
hnnnnnnnn[/QUOTE]
there was no e39 m5 touring. only a concept that never got taken any further
Any good video tutorial demonstrations on the basics of car maintenance?
I know all the small stuff like changing tyres, checking oil, and most of the stuff that you can access easily under the hood.. but, not things like checking brakes and general wear & tear.
Anything on this guys channel.
[url]https://www.youtube.com/user/EricTheCarGuy[/url]
Just saw an f-type rolling down my street. Really nice car
[QUOTE=rampageturke 2;49860171]I'm glad I know that it's a legit issue now, the last car I had that I got an oiled filter on (was actually switching from a shitty cone filter back to standard airbox) had a MAP sensor instead of a MAF, does it cause issues there also?[/QUOTE]
Like slayer said, it wouldn't cause MAP issues nearly as much.
Probably what you would notice on an MAP based car is, the IACV valve would require more frequint cleaning. The one on my MAP based Impreza is upstream of the MAP port, much more exposed.
[QUOTE=Strontboer;49867735]Someone send money please
[url]http://www.marktplaats.nl/a/auto-s/bmw/m1023748157-bmw-323ci-coupe-e46-automaat-m3-uitgevoerd-csl-19inch-lmv.html?c=9b26ed2a557deff636f4f8b9c5b7a618[/url][/QUOTE]
Why does it say 231.434 km in the (description?) area and 181.572 km in the (summary?) area?
Either way, that's a good price for a 17yo car in that good of a condition.
[QUOTE=Bradyns;49867804]Why does it say 231.434 km in the (description?) area and 181.572 km in the (summary?) area?
Either way, that's a good price for a 17yo car in that good of a condition.[/QUOTE]
Because we have a system that checks KM's on cars on each yearly checkup. The system indicated it should have 230k, but the cars says 181k. So it's been tampered with.
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