Automotive Addicts Lounge V4 - Lube my pistons, baby
5,001 replies, posted
[QUOTE=Strontboer;49867844]Because we have a system that checks KM's on cars on each yearly checkup. The system indicated it should have 230k, but the cars says 181k. So it's been tampered with.[/QUOTE]
Same here, but ours work on averages of the car model across the board.
What happens if an old pops drove it 5,000km over 10years, then gave it to someone who clocked the other 176,000km?
Given Occam's Razor though, you are most likely correct.
[QUOTE=Bradyns;49867881]Same here, but ours work on averages of the car model across the board.
What happens if an old pops drove it 5,000km over 10years, then gave it to someone who clocked the other 176,000km?
Given Occam's Razor though, you are most likely correct.[/QUOTE]
Nah it doesn't work like that. When you buy the car, the licence plat is registered and the clocked couple of KM's are then locked in.
Then each time you have your yearly (required) checkup, they see how much is on the clock, and then put that in the log. If the previous entry was 50k, and the next one is 60k then it "looks good" but it also looks good if the previous entry was 50k and it's now on 200k. It still looks good, it only tells you it hasn't had proper maintenance over the previous 150k KM. The only way the system says something is wrong is if the newer entry is lower then the previous entry.
[editline]4th March 2016[/editline]
Also, the fact that it's NOT forbidden to fuck with your odometer makes the system really fucking useless. You can still have 50k on the clock, drive another 100k and right before the checkup put it to like 60k.
[QUOTE=Psygo;49865581]no clue what you're talking about, we haven't changed oil in my dads e34 520i for the last 100k km, and we've run it nearly empty for a long time, little bit of slapping from the chain otherwise it's good. filled it back up haven't heard it since. though it does burn a lot of oil now.[/QUOTE]
You do that in a 80s-1996 MB with a V8 and you blow the camshafts out of the towers. So while that may work for a 520i or a 190E 2 liter, it doesn't work for all.
[t]http://imgkk.com/i/-ljg.png[/t]
This pleases me.
[QUOTE=Squarebob;49868558][t]http://imgkk.com/i/-ljg.png[/t]
This pleases me.[/QUOTE]
Wow I didnt know blackstone offered a complimentary dick sucking with each oil analysis
So I may be picking up a 1997 BMW 328i Coupe (Manual Transmission) tomorrow for free. The PO said it overheats and he changed the radiator. It still runs so, worse case scenario, it's toast. Best case, free BMW :smug:
[QUOTE=Birdman101;49868668]Wow I didnt know blackstone offered a complimentary dick sucking with each oil analysis[/QUOTE]
That's pretty much the best part of blackstone.
Took the head off and found out that cylinder 3 had the intake valve open on that particular revolution, and filled with water while it was laying in the bed of the truck of the previous owner. I have confirmed it is completely overhauled. The pistons are .040 oversize, so it's now a 228ci. Luckily the water was only there a short time, so I spilled it out, vacuumed the cylinders and wiped what surface rust had formed. There's no pitting so it's ok to move on.
[URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/225%20Rebuild%20project/IMG_20160302_074734861_zpscqqwwkhf.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/225%20Rebuild%20project/IMG_20160302_074734861_zpscqqwwkhf.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
So that was a fun bit of cleanup, oiled the cylinders and rotated the engine a few times then I went ahead and mounted my ARP headstuds.
[URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/225%20Rebuild%20project/IMG_20160302_082754194_zpstdegm8ch.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/225%20Rebuild%20project/IMG_20160302_082754194_zpstdegm8ch.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
I only had to clean out about 4 of the threads that weren't screwing in, but that was it, the rest was easy, and now I was able to torque the head down to 80ft/lbs wheras stock only goes to 60, and have a problem with stretching and warping the head.
[URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/225%20Rebuild%20project/IMG_20160302_134858764_zpsk7hapxaf.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/225%20Rebuild%20project/IMG_20160302_134858764_zpsk7hapxaf.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
I sandblasted most of the valve cover and am slowly getting that ready for paint.
And I hacked up the stock exhaust manifold because I have a plan.
[URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/225%20Rebuild%20project/IMG_20160302_141730100_HDR_zpsmtrr2qp5.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/225%20Rebuild%20project/IMG_20160302_141730100_HDR_zpsmtrr2qp5.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Also the dude who rebuilt the engine put these nice 340 valve springs on, then painted them because he didn't believe in tape for some reason.
[URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/225%20Rebuild%20project/IMG_20160302_075313529_zpst0aeztho.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/225%20Rebuild%20project/IMG_20160302_075313529_zpst0aeztho.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
how long before that pretty white motor is completely covered in oil
test drove a new wrangler
what a posh, luxurious, smooth yacht/spaceship/couch
what am I supposed to do with my life now
[QUOTE=butre;49869993]how long before that pretty white motor is completely covered in oil[/QUOTE]
With blowby? Instantly. But with all new rings and stuff - maybe 10,000 miles? The turbo definitely doesn't help.
A lot of the stock springs have the paint mark on them for mopars. I had a couple sets laying around and it was a split between orange, blue, and bare.
Also, why would you only blast like 70% of the valve cover??
[QUOTE=POLOPOZOZO;49870145]test drove a new wrangler
what a posh, luxurious, smooth yacht/spaceship/couch
what am I supposed to do with my life now[/QUOTE]
wranglers are extremely popular around where I live. I finally got to drive them over the summer as a valet and let me say they are probably one of the worst new cars I have ever had the displeasure of driving. The only one that I liked was a TJ with a 5 speed, only because the stick distracted me from the otherwise awful driving experience. The handling/powertrain is ass, the interior is ass, the fuel economy and safety is ass, and the NVH is the worst of any car I have ever been in.
But if you enjoyed it then all the power to you, that's just my experience with them. I'm not sure I'd buy a new one and the prices for used ones is absurd but an older 2 door with the 4.0L straight six and a five speed would be a fun summer cruiser to me.
On a different note, how worth it/not worth it are those exotic driving experiences? I'm getting a couple hundred in my tax return and wanna do something stupid. 3 laps in a super car of my choosing is like $200-$250 but that's basically like $60/minute.
Hello, I was wondering if you people who are more well-versed in cars could help me identify one?
[IMG]http://orig01.deviantart.net/921a/f/2016/064/9/8/s_by_renakryik-d9u0di6.png[/IMG]
Location is Iran or Iraq, not sure, if that helps
[QUOTE=RenaFox;49871513]Hello, I was wondering if you people who are more well-versed in cars could help me identify one?
[IMG]http://orig01.deviantart.net/921a/f/2016/064/9/8/s_by_renakryik-d9u0di6.png[/IMG]
Location is Iran or Iraq, not sure, if that helps[/QUOTE]
Looks like an 80's japanese car. Like a Toyota Crown or something.
[editline]5th March 2016[/editline]
yup, it is. 1984 Toyota Crown.
[t]http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg128/stahlz_ae86/Meganscrown001.jpg[/t]
Putting some equal length headers on the Forester, got part way through taking it apart, one bolt was rounded and another snapped clean off the moment we started to turn it. Welp, now headers are leaking until I can get some more studs tomorrow. Hopefully some EL headers are going to be worth the power gains though! Also means my exhaust system is finished and I can work on a new intercooler and boost controller.
[QUOTE=dwt110;49870813]But if you enjoyed it then all the power to you[/QUOTE]
no
it was bad
it was just a luxury suv
there was nothing enjoyable about this vehicle, and I bet the old ones are way more fun
[editline]5th March 2016[/editline]
literally every single car manufactured today is keeping up with the joneses: the car
it looks more and more like will never enjoy a driving a vehicle in my entire life
How involved would it be to convert a pre-computer car to a manual transmission? Let's say a 1975 corolla? I found one that is absolutely mint, but the catch is that it is an auto.
Is it as simple as picking up a t50 transmission, trans mount, a clutch pedal, a clutch master cylinder, a matching flywheel and clutch kit as well as possibly a longer/shorter driveshaft, and banging it all together? Maybe cut the transmission tunnel a bit?
[t]http://i.imgur.com/Pf7kFET.jpg[/t]
Got em installed finally, glad I didn't do them myself as it looked bloody awkward to do without all the correct tools/lifting equipment. Just need to bed them em and I can try them out properly.
Ignore the filth, I drove through a fucking blizzard and I was shitting myself for about 3 hours as anything made me loose traction. (The snow was totally random and I couldn't have prepped for it).
So, I'm trying to figure out if I want to keep my car until it really truly dies and then convert it over to a project car, or if I want to trade it in on another vehicle once I get it paid off this year. What I'm currently leaning towards is keeping my Charger after I pay it off, and open another savings account where I throw my current minimum payment into it each month as if I'm still paying on the car as a safety net in the event something catastrophic happens to the car again. The goal would be to keep the car as long as possible, buy a cheap beater if something bad happens, and turn it into a project car since I do still like the car. I just kinda want something with more power and more fun, but don't really want to turn my only car into a project car which will sit unusable 30% of the time.
Thoughts, fellow cheap-ass car guys on a strict budget?
[QUOTE=PyroCF;49873087][t]http://i.imgur.com/Pf7kFET.jpg[/t]
Got em installed finally, glad I didn't do them myself as it looked bloody awkward to do without all the correct tools/lifting equipment. Just need to bed them em and I can try them out properly.
Ignore the filth, I drove through a fucking blizzard and I was shitting myself for about 3 hours as anything made me loose traction. (The snow was totally random and I couldn't have prepped for it).[/QUOTE]
Why aren't they lubricated at all?
Not so much car related but I'm reparing some old as fuck machine
[img]http://i.imgur.com/tKrCQ9S.jpg[/img]
Everything is rusted together :(
above freezing means time to wash the car
[t]http://i.imgur.com/k9rDjpq.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=ToastedBread;49872640]How involved would it be to convert a pre-computer car to a manual transmission? Let's say a 1975 corolla? I found one that is absolutely mint, but the catch is that it is an auto.
Is it as simple as picking up a t50 transmission, trans mount, a clutch pedal, a clutch master cylinder, a matching flywheel and clutch kit as well as possibly a longer/shorter driveshaft, and banging it all together? Maybe cut the transmission tunnel a bit?[/QUOTE]
Depends on the car, you definitely won't have to cut the tunnel unless you're swapping some random trans into it. You may have to cut/fab up mounts and clutch pedal/master cylinder assemblies though.
It seems like they're considered a KE30 chassis or are similar to one, this page might answer all you need.
[url]http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/49567-ke30-manual-conversion/[/url]
[QUOTE=ToastedBread;49872640]How involved would it be to convert a pre-computer car to a manual transmission? Let's say a 1975 corolla? I found one that is absolutely mint, but the catch is that it is an auto.
Is it as simple as picking up a t50 transmission, trans mount, a clutch pedal, a clutch master cylinder, a matching flywheel and clutch kit as well as possibly a longer/shorter driveshaft, and banging it all together? Maybe cut the transmission tunnel a bit?[/QUOTE]
I have done this myself in my 1979 Nissan Skyline, measure up the old auto and new manual box and if there different lengths you may need a driveshaft off a manual model, (I didnt need too thank god). The auto models would have a bigger trans tunnel but you may need to cut for the shifter. also grab the manual trans mounts too.
Its easy as piss.
[t]https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1710/25452502471_0d18b3a7f2_o.jpg[/t]
apparently my dad got inspired by Hobbes, went out and got this thing as his new daily
i guess we're Jag people now
Not true Jag people until you drive only V12s and have a wallet filled with only dead skin flakes and flies.
Also.. we have a new model for the shirts that are goin down. :v:
[URL=http://s465.photobucket.com/user/isaact1234/media/image1_zpspz6hgxr5.jpg.html][IMG]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/isaact1234/image1_zpspz6hgxr5.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s465.photobucket.com/user/isaact1234/media/Dallen1Front_zpsy5hxu8gb.jpg.html][IMG]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/isaact1234/Dallen1Front_zpsy5hxu8gb.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
This one's for a buddy who drives a GTI.. he's good for "I want something with the back of my car, and a racing phrase.. surprise me!" haha
[QUOTE=clutch2;49876502]have a wallet filled with only dead skin flakes and flies. [/QUOTE]
Well the XJ has the XK6 an the X type has a ford V6 in it so that shouldn't be a problem, I should at least have a few fivers left
Just saw this on the local CL:
[img]http://imgur.com/xsBvMwn.png[/img]
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