Automotive Addicts Lounge V4 - Lube my pistons, baby

[danjee]

Floodin' Miata

This was after I already vac'd the footwell once:

[t]http://i.imgur.com/gMTDcvo.jpg[/t]

This was most likely caused by drainholes getting plugged (infamous NA flaw). The water builds up in the fender & below the doors (I could hear it sloshing when I was driving) and just slow seeped into the carpeting allllllll night long.

After being unplugged, drainhole was pissing like this for almost 10 minutes:

[t]http://i.imgur.com/3CRelrt.jpg[/t]

It was so wet today that it was lubricating some belt and making it shriek. Also I hydroplaned and that [I]definitely[/I] could have gone worse. On the bright side, I got to have fun swinging the car's hips pulling out of every isolated intersection.

[butre]

[QUOTE=clutch2;49876502]Not true Jag people until you drive only V12s and have a wallet filled with only dead skin flakes and flies.

Also.. we have a new model for the shirts that are goin down. :v:
[URL=http://s465.photobucket.com/user/isaact1234/media/image1_zpspz6hgxr5.jpg.html][IMG]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/isaact1234/image1_zpspz6hgxr5.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s465.photobucket.com/user/isaact1234/media/Dallen1Front_zpsy5hxu8gb.jpg.html][IMG]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/isaact1234/Dallen1Front_zpsy5hxu8gb.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
This one's for a buddy who drives a GTI.. he's good for "I want something with the back of my car, and a racing phrase.. surprise me!" haha[/QUOTE]

is that the lewd side of your daki under that shirt

[Strontboer]

a waifu pillow lol

[OscarLimaEcho]

Just had some fun time in the E36.
Crashed into the guardrail, broke nothing but an indicator, and when I got home I caught my sister with some dude in a E46 when I was just trying to park.

[Strontboer]

[QUOTE=Oscar Lima Echo;49881055]Just had some fun time in the E36.
Crashed into the guardrail, broke nothing but an indicator, and when I got home I caught my sister with some dude in a E46 when I was just trying to park.[/QUOTE]

Living the way BMW intended you to.

[OscarLimaEcho]

I stalked his facebook. I guess I can understand and forgive.
[t]https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/v/t1.0-9/10659369_10204181996525834_7345207834983452459_n.jpg?oh=038f6ecb5f377516dd2a7d6b9d69ab94&oe=5795D894[/t]

[Kfacat]

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/VfCN18T.jpg[/IMG]
the dorks the dorks cannot be corked the dorks obama is keeping the dorks uncorcked the dorks the dorks the dorks it is dork dork dorkthe dorks the dorks cannot be corked the dorks obama is keeping the dorks uncorcked the dorks the dorks the dorks it is dork dork dorkthe dorks the dorks cannot be corked the dorks obama is keeping the dorks uncorcked the dorks the dorks the dorks it is dork dork dorkthe dorks the dorks cannot be corked the dorks obama is keeping the dorks uncorcked the dorks the dorks the dorks it is dork dork dorkthe dorks the dorks cannot be corked the dorks obama is keeping the dorks uncorcked the dorks the dorks the dorks it is dork dork dorkthe dorks the dorks cannot be corked the dorks obama is keeping the dorks uncorcked the dorks the dorks the dorks it is dork dork dorkthe dorks the dorks cannot be corked the dorks obama is keeping the dorks uncorcked the dorks the dorks the dorks it is dork dork dorkthe dorks the dorks cannot be corked the dorks obama is keeping the dorks uncorcked the dorks the dorks the dorks it is dork dork dorkthe dorks the dorks cannot be corked the dorks obama is keeping the dorks uncorcked the dorks the dorks the dorks it is dork dork dorkthe dorks the dorks cannot be corked the dorks obama is keeping the dorks uncorcked the dorks the dorks the dorks it is dork dork dorkthe dorks the dorks cannot be corked the dorks obama is keeping the dorks uncorcked the dorks the dorks the dorks it is dork dork dorkthe dorks the dorks cannot be corked the dorks obama is keeping the dorks uncorcked the dorks the dorks the dorks it is dork dork dorkthe dorks the dorks cannot be corked the dorks obama is keeping the dorks uncorcked the dorks the dorks the dorks it is dork dork dorkthe dorks the dorks cannot be corked the dorks obama is keeping the dorks uncorcked the dorks the dorks the dorks it is dork dork dorkthe dorks the dorks cannot be corked the dorks obama is keeping the dorks uncorcked the dorks the dorks the dorks it is dork dork dorkthe dorks the dorks cannot be corked the dorks obama is keeping the dorks uncorcked the dorks the dorks the dorks it is dork dork dorkthe dorks the dorks cannot be corked the dorks obama is keeping the dorks uncorcked the dorks the dorks the dorks it is dork dork dorkthe dorks the dorks cannot be corked the dorks obama is keeping the dorks uncorcked the dorks the dorks the dorks it is dork dork dorkthe dorks the dorks cannot be corked the dorks obama is keeping the dorks uncorcked the dorks the dorks the dorks it is dork dork dorkthe dorks the dorks cannot be corked the dorks obama is keeping the dorks uncorcked the dorks the dorks the dorks it is dork dork dork dorkdorkdorkdorkdorkdorkdorkdorkdorkdorkdorkdorkdorkdorkdorkdorkdorkdorkdorkdorkdorkdorkdorkdorkdorkdorkdorkdorkdorkdork

[TheBirdman]

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/AVIzkjc.jpg[/IMG]
Thought the truck looked cool in the dark.

[deathmog]

Making some progress with the 4AGE I've been working on -
I'm getting it ready to put on the engine stand but of course the transmission doesn't exactly want to separate even after I got all of the bolts that connect the housing to the block out.

I think it's just a matter of getting it balanced so that there's less weight/pressure on the transmission, and then I have to wiggle it free I think.

[editline]7th March 2016[/editline]

The next question is, since I'm breaking it down and everything it would be a good opportunity to paint it..does anybody have any ideas?
I was thinking of painting the valve covers too

[Slayer3032]

[QUOTE=deathmog;49882484]Making some progress with the 4AGE I've been working on -
I'm getting it ready to put on the engine stand but of course the transmission doesn't exactly want to separate even after I got all of the bolts that connect the housing to the block out.

I think it's just a matter of getting it balanced so that there's less weight/pressure on the transmission, and then I have to wiggle it free I think.

[editline]7th March 2016[/editline]

The next question is, since I'm breaking it down and everything it would be a good opportunity to paint it..does anybody have any ideas?
I was thinking of painting the valve covers too[/QUOTE]

Cast Aluminum paint all over the block, head and trans then wrinkle black, blue or red on the valve cover.

[editline]6th March 2016[/editline]

I painted my intake manifold with it, doesn't look like the crap color that "aluminum" usually is but still comes off cleaner and brighter than a clean aluminum cast object.

[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2015-08-20%2021.25.32.jpg[/t][t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2015-08-20%2021.25.43.jpg[/t]

[deathmog]

I think the biggest thing I'm looking forward to is cleaning it, it's pretty dirty right now but the one that's in my car right now is even filthier.

[t]http://i.imgur.com/g6mtMSB.jpg[/t]

[DPkiller]

[QUOTE=slayer3032;49882698]Cast Aluminum paint all over the block, head and trans then wrinkle black, blue or red on the valve cover.

[editline]6th March 2016[/editline]

I painted my intake manifold with it, doesn't look like the crap color that "aluminum" usually is but still comes off cleaner and brighter than a clean aluminum cast object.

[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2015-08-20%2021.25.32.jpg[/t][t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2015-08-20%2021.25.43.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]

I wonder why they made that fuel rail so heatsink-y. I thought the main objective is to get air the lowest possible within reason with forced induction applications

[Slayer3032]

[QUOTE=DPKiller;49883177]I wonder why they made that fuel rail so heatsink-y. I thought the main objective is to get air the lowest possible within reason with forced induction applications[/QUOTE]

It's a really simple design, I imagine they drilled this one like any way they wanted since they did and there's quite a few D series fuel rails which all look the same but have injectors, mounting holes and fprs mounted in different places or different sides.

Most of the B series stuff and the older MPFI stuff has a cast fuel rail like this.
[t]http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn173/Nemesis_R/DSCF1028.jpg[/t]

However here's the same manifold off another Integra Type-R motor but equipped with the IPT(mine had that sticker) style rail.
[t]http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a246/Side_Kick_2/Picture143.jpg[/t]

Hell, here's one that it looks like Honda cut the shit out of and put it on the Euro R Accords.
[t]http://honda-tech.com/attachments/honda-prelude-4/367469d1401828669-euro-r-intake-manifold-rdx-injectors-euro-r-intake-manifold.jpg[/t]

[Pardalis]

Is this thread car-only? I could use some pointers for getting an old KW 600R going again.

[butre]

[QUOTE=latin_geek;49883859]Is this thread car-only? I could use some pointers for getting an old KW 600R going again.[/QUOTE]

a lot of people here know about bikes. there's a bikes thread somewhere but I think it's dead. what kind of problem are you trying to diagnose? have you already gone through the carb, made sure it had compression in all cylinders, checked for vacuum leaks, and checked for spark?

[Pardalis]

[QUOTE=butre;49883885]a lot of people here know about bikes. there's a bikes thread somewhere but I think it's dead. what kind of problem are you trying to diagnose? have you already gone through the carb, made sure it had compression in all cylinders, checked for vacuum leaks, and checked for spark?[/QUOTE]

That's more or less the kind of basic checklist I'm looking for, actually. That and any warnings about tests that might just wreck the bike harder given it's condition. The thing has been sitting in a workshop for at least a decade. All I can tell from a cursory inspection is that the fuel tank's rusted (which probably means a [I]lot more[/I] is rusted) and so is the entire water circuit. Chain looks fine, choke and brakes respond, throttle is rather sticky.

[DPkiller]

[QUOTE=latin_geek;49883903]That's more or less the kind of basic checklist I'm looking for, actually. That and any warnings about tests that might just wreck the bike harder given it's condition. The thing has been sitting in a workshop for at least a decade. All I can tell from a cursory inspection is that the fuel tank's rusted (which probably means a [I]lot more[/I] is rusted) and so is the entire water circuit. Chain looks fine, choke and brakes respond, throttle is rather sticky.[/QUOTE]

take carbs off, clean. Re assemble.
take tank off, stick alittle bit of gas in it and some washers. SHAKE SHAKE SHAKE remove washers. reassemble.
take the sparkplug out of hole, stick its plug on it and hold the sparkplug by its metal bit. now with your other hand hold the bike. Now have a friend turn the bike over, if you dont have a friend use your foot. If you yelp you got spark.
use compression tester. first test all cylinders then pour alittle oin into each cyclinder wile the plugs are still out and let it sit for afew mins. Gets the rings all nice and lubbed.

make that bitch run.

Only note I really have for you is make sure to crank on it for awhile without the plug wires attached so it wont run. This will gain oil pressure and re-lube the important bits. Once you have oiled the important bits go ahead and stick your finger in the plug and the other finger on the spark plug. Crank it over to lube your mouth on how freely words can slip.

[Slayer3032]

[QUOTE=butre;49883885]a lot of people here know about bikes. there's a bikes thread somewhere but I think it's dead. what kind of problem are you trying to diagnose? have you already gone through the carb, made sure it had compression in all cylinders, checked for vacuum leaks, and checked for spark?[/QUOTE]

Bike thread died with the AA section, I like hearing about bikes and seeing cool shit done with them. I always thought it was a shame the bike stuff was never posted in the waywo thread since it's much easier and more common for people who have bikes to work on them.

[editline]7th March 2016[/editline]

[QUOTE=DPKiller;49884001]take carbs off, clean. Re assemble.
take tank off, stick alittle bit of gas in it and some washers. SHAKE SHAKE SHAKE remove washers. reassemble.
take the sparkplug out of hole, stick its plug on it and hold the sparkplug by its metal bit. now with your other hand hold the bike. Now have a friend turn the bike over, if you dont have a friend use your foot. If you yelp you got spark.
use compression tester. first test all cylinders then pour alittle oin into each cyclinder wile the plugs are still out and let it sit for afew mins. Gets the rings all nice and lubbed.

make that bitch run.

Only note I really have for you is make sure to crank on it for awhile without the plug wires attached so it wont run. This will gain oil pressure and re-lube the important bits. Once you have oiled the important bits go ahead and stick your finger in the plug and the other finger on the spark plug. Crank it over to lube your mouth on how freely words can slip.[/QUOTE]

Marvels Mystery Oil is supposed to be really great with unsticking rings and unfreezing motors. After you take out the plugs, I'd go straight to dumping MMO in the cylinder(s). Also just run the cheapest most basic oil you can find through it for the first little while and then after you get it running all decent and take it for the first test drive replace the oil with some nice fresh quality oil. I'd definitely dump at least oil the cylinders before you even turn over the motor in the slightest.

[Texasbbwlover]

[QUOTE=Trilby Harlow;49876361][t]https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1710/25452502471_0d18b3a7f2_o.jpg[/t]

apparently my dad got inspired by Hobbes, went out and got this thing as his new daily

i guess we're Jag people now[/QUOTE]

Save yourself a lot of trouble and get rid of the X Type. Please, save yourself.

[butre]

[QUOTE=DPKiller;49884001]take carbs off, clean. Re assemble.
take tank off, stick alittle bit of gas in it and some washers. SHAKE SHAKE SHAKE remove washers. reassemble.
take the sparkplug out of hole, stick its plug on it and hold the sparkplug by its metal bit. now with your other hand hold the bike. Now have a friend turn the bike over, if you dont have a friend use your foot. If you yelp you got spark.
use compression tester. first test all cylinders then pour alittle oin into each cyclinder wile the plugs are still out and let it sit for afew mins. Gets the rings all nice and lubbed.

make that bitch run.

Only note I really have for you is make sure to crank on it for awhile without the plug wires attached so it wont run. This will gain oil pressure and re-lube the important bits. Once you have oiled the important bits go ahead and stick your finger in the plug and the other finger on the spark plug. Crank it over to lube your mouth on how freely words can slip.[/QUOTE]

usually you can place the spark plug threads against an unpainted part of the engine and turn it over and see the spark and not have to shock yourself, or get an inline spark tester

[editline]7th March 2016[/editline]

[QUOTE=slayer3032;49884103]Bike thread died with the AA section, I like hearing about bikes and seeing cool shit done with them. I always thought it was a shame the bike stuff was never posted in the waywo thread since it's much easier and more common for people who have bikes to work on them.

[editline]7th March 2016[/editline]

Marvels Mystery Oil is supposed to be really great with unsticking rings and unfreezing motors. After you take out the plugs, I'd go straight to dumping MMO in the cylinder(s). Also just run the cheapest most basic oil you can find through it for the first little while and then after you get it running all decent and take it for the first test drive replace the oil with some nice fresh quality oil. I'd definitely dump at least oil the cylinders before you even turn over the motor in the slightest.[/QUOTE]

if I'm letting an engine sit for a long time I go ahead and fill the cylinders with mystery oil. anyone who doesn't is a masochist

depending on how bad the rust is I may use marvel mystery oil, I may use kerosine, or if it's real bad I'll fill it with brake fluid and light a rag on fire in there.

[S31-Syntax]

So, a friend asked my GF and I to sell her car. The deal was that we clean it up, list it, and whatever it sells for we get half. Its a 2006 VW Jetta, mechanically well taken care of, 92k miles, never missed an oil change, good tires all the time, always maintained. Cosmetically it looks like a homeless person drove it for 8 years. There was shit on [I]everything.[/I] Dead skin caked the steering wheel, shifter, all the column arms, ebrake, and theres this... [I]residue[/I] on everything else. Everything was intact, sure... just... [I][B]filthy.[/B][/I]

So we cleaned it, removed the stickers, made it look actually decent.

and then I looked at the blazer I drive... the one that shat a brake pad last monday... dubbed the SS Reckless Endangerment... and my GF brought up that if [I]we[/I] bought it we'd only have to pay the half that they wanted originally.

So long story short I got a 2006 Jetta for $1500 and now I go fast everywhere. I named her broomhilda. She's my short fat german speed-demon witch.

[FordLord]

Another site to watch out for when buying dash cams, or anything they sell; GearBest.
It's been rated as reputable, but what it's doing is scummy as fuck.
There's an 8% off coupon they sent out.
When you apply it to an item that was on discount already, it says 'Flashsale is over' and raises the items price to the original price before discounting.
IE, This dash cam I'm looking at is $72 on sale, $85 regular. When I apply the coupon, it displays 'flash sale is over' and raises my total to $77.
Removing the coupon makes the camera go back to $72.

[PyroCF]

[QUOTE=Ldesu;49873627]Why aren't they lubricated at all?[/QUOTE]

Good question well presented, I'll get back to you on that one....

[Trekintosh]

[QUOTE=FordLord;49886620]Another site to watch out for when buying dash cams, or anything they sell; GearBest.
It's been rated as reputable, but what it's doing is scummy as fuck.
There's an 8% off coupon they sent out.
When you apply it to an item that was on discount already, it says 'Flashsale is over' and raises the items price to the original price before discounting.
IE, This dash cam I'm looking at is $72 on sale, $85 regular. When I apply the coupon, it displays 'flash sale is over' and raises my total to $77.
Removing the coupon makes the camera go back to $72.[/QUOTE]

Yeah this is the same site I bought my tablet from that bricked 2 hours after I first turned it on. Basically everything is on sale so all the time to make it look like a good deal. As a side effect, it's only one deal at a time, so when you enter a coupon it overrides the first deal which is usually larger. Also the shipping times are [I]dreadful. [/I]My tablet was 4 weeks late.

[TheBirdman]

[QUOTE=FordLord;49886620]Another site to watch out for when buying dash cams, or anything they sell; GearBest.
It's been rated as reputable, but what it's doing is scummy as fuck.
There's an 8% off coupon they sent out.
When you apply it to an item that was on discount already, it says 'Flashsale is over' and raises the items price to the original price before discounting.
IE, This dash cam I'm looking at is $72 on sale, $85 regular. When I apply the coupon, it displays 'flash sale is over' and raises my total to $77.
Removing the coupon makes the camera go back to $72.[/QUOTE]

To me, gearbest is the new dealextreme. Buy cheap neato gadgets, but dont expect it to ship in less than a month and dont expect something that works for longer than a month. With those two things expected, its almost always a positive experience.

[Missing User]

62 and overcast? Perfect.

Vacuumed, and un-winterized the Blazer today. The amount of salt taken off the windows was disheartening. Supposed to rain tonight so I'll probably wash it tomorrow if I get the chance.

Checked the idler/pitman arms too- They're solid. Which lowers my confidence on what the fuck is still making that clunking noise when I turn.

[editline]7th March 2016[/editline]

Checked the ujoints as well, they actually look good for being ~17 years old.

[clutch2]

Today was the first day I could work with the shop door open, just touched 60* or so. Gorgeous.

Tonight... tonight I go pick up that SRT4. Irresponsible.. but that's what being young and single is all about.

[Scientwist]

Alright, so I have a question for the Honda dudes here. My new boss (long boring story) has a 96 Accord with the 4 cylinder and the transmission is toast.

I'm told that car has a one year only transmission in it and it needs to be replaced with ONLY that one tranny. Is this true or is he vastly misinformed. I can get the car for 500 bux but I need to know if it's going to be worth it.

It's mainly for my sister as her Merc mountaineer is shitting the bed and I don't want her to be in that death box too much longer.

[S31-Syntax]

[QUOTE=Scientwist;49888777]Alright, so I have a question for the Honda dudes here. My new boss (long boring story) has a 96 Accord with the 4 cylinder and the transmission is toast.

I'm told that car has a one year only transmission in it and it needs to be replaced with ONLY that one tranny. Is this true or is he vastly misinformed. I can get the car for 500 bux but I need to know if it's going to be worth it.

It's mainly for my sister as her Merc mountaineer is shitting the bed and I don't want her to be in that death box too much longer.[/QUOTE]

I would guess he's misinformed but its hard to be sure because [I]there were like 8 4 cylinders for that generation[/I]

[Slayer3032]

[QUOTE=Scientwist;49888777]Alright, so I have a question for the Honda dudes here. My new boss (long boring story) has a 96 Accord with the 4 cylinder and the transmission is toast.

I'm told that car has a one year only transmission in it and it needs to be replaced with ONLY that one tranny. Is this true or is he vastly misinformed. I can get the car for 500 bux but I need to know if it's going to be worth it.

It's mainly for my sister as her Merc mountaineer is shitting the bed and I don't want her to be in that death box too much longer.[/QUOTE]

96 is OBD2, OBD1 transmissions are different from OBD2 and OBD2a transmissions could possibly be different than OBD2b but those would be the next body style. The CD body style ended in 97 based on a google search of 97 accords so you should technically be looking for a 2 year transmission :v:

It's really hard to say since the 98+ Accords were US only platforms while the CD chassis lived on for another generation everywhere else in the world. That's probably why the CL was introduced then we got the TSX right after that since our market didn't have the real Accord chassis. The choice of parts and platforms, although the 4th gen Preludes were around in 96 only so it's possible but strange that they extended the OBD1 style transmissions for another couple years until the refreshes.

Syncrotech who are basically the authority on rebuilding Honda manual transmissions are selling a reman "94-97" automatic transmission for what seems like a decent price as well. So maybe the F series stuff never changed up like the B/D series. I really only have specific knowledge of B series automatics so anything I said was just a guess.
[url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Accord-1994-1997-4-Cyl-Remanufactured-Automatic-Transmission-/171203274453[/url]

[editline]7th March 2016[/editline]

Oh, you could always call them up being interested in that listing and extract the info that you need.