Automotive Addicts Lounge V4 - Lube my pistons, baby - General

[QUOTE=Serj22;49905710]Or if you go through all that trouble you can just... you know... paint the car...[/QUOTE] I couldn't help but think that... the only advantage here is no sanding or buffing required, just a clean car to start with. I guess if you're REALLY hellbent on changing the color but already have a well maintained paint job, then this is a good option.

So my friend's bimmer seems to have finally bit the dust. He's been driving this thing for yeaaars. [img]https://2dbdd5116ffa30a49aa8-c03f075f8191fb4e60e74b907071aee8.ssl.cf1.rackcdn.com/9817537_1457631346.6599.jpg[/img] Rest in peace you glorious bastard. His GF has put up a gofundme without his knowledge. He's apparently not taking it very well and she wants to help. I'll throw some cash at it when I get paid.

I've gone from this: [t]http://puu.sh/noMnn.jpg[/t] to this: [t]http://puu.sh/nBLDT.jpg[/t] Not much left to do before I'll get to test it :v:

[QUOTE=Aetna;49905816]I couldn't help but think that... the only advantage here is no sanding or buffing required, just a clean car to start with. I guess if you're REALLY hellbent on changing the color but already have a well maintained paint job, then this is a good option.[/QUOTE] That's the thing, you need good paint for any of these temporary things to work. Even then, they generally cost more than a real paint job, with most not looking as good.

[QUOTE=slayer3032;49904633]Purple power is kind of crap, if you leave it on aluminum for anything more than a literal few seconds you will etch the living fuck out of it.[/QUOTE] That sounds like a positive testament to it's quality, actually.

[QUOTE=latin_geek;49907042]That sounds like a positive testament to it's quality, actually.[/QUOTE] It is, but you need to be careful with it. It can also melt some forms of unprotected vinyl, and leaves streaks when not used correctly in diluted form on interiors.

Here's the latest three videos I've made on the Daytona. [video=youtube;SNU4tCgj6B8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SNU4tCgj6B8[/video] [video=youtube;HtCjZbqd7Aw]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HtCjZbqd7Aw[/video] [video=youtube;R42VsdSlT-8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R42VsdSlT-8[/video]

Okay guys I'm saving my money to buy my first car, I'm thinking of buy a volvo 240 wagon.. Thoughts?

How can someone not like the pure rage that a rotary has? [video=youtube;LkQ6RRhNE9o]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LkQ6RRhNE9o[/video] It's fucking beautiful.

[QUOTE=kirederf7;49907321]Okay guys I'm saving my money to buy my first car, I'm thinking of buy a volvo 240 wagon.. Thoughts?[/QUOTE] I don't know Euro prices, but you can get an 850 or v70 wagon for a good price. Plus, you can get a turbo, which really helps move the brick.

fwd v70r is best brick

[QUOTE=latin_geek;49907042]That sounds like a positive testament to it's quality, actually.[/QUOTE] I suppose but if you intend to clean an engine bay or a motor with any aluminum parts, it's the wrong product to use. It also burns/stains paint pretty bad unless you dilute it and hose it off. Then on the flip side, if you actually want a harsh chemical like acetone or even diesel it doesn't match up at all. When cleaning disgusting engine parts covered in grease, it's useless since you can't let shit soak in it for more than a few seconds and even if you do spray it on and leave it to sit it doesn't even work well while carb cleaner/acetone will just totally rip it all away. I find simple green far more useful since you can let stuff soak in it for as long as you feel. I find it useless in the things I want it to do and to mess up the things I expect it to do, it's great to have around but you have to be careful what you use it on. Purple power is decent for spot degreasing, getting the final layer of oils off after being fully scrubbed down and pulling oil out of cement and containing it after a spill. I also use it to clean my repurposed bathroom vanity I use as a workbench, some quick sprays and a wipe down usually does the job of anything that goes onto it but it's stained the unpainted sheetrock in the garage. I also usually use it on my wood stool which is often used as a work surface.

[QUOTE=Serj22;49905710]Or if you go through all that trouble you can just... you know... paint the car...[/QUOTE] So spend a week or two sanding every nook and cranny? This is way quicker for almost the same result. Then it's removable. Closer to a vinyl wrap than anything, shiny finish that can still go back to factory without damaging the OEM paint underneath.

[QUOTE=deathmog;49903685]So I think friday I'm going to start to really investigate this motor. Today we pulled one of the cam covers off and they seemed okay, but we only checked one of them quickly, definitely will take a closer look later. I'm going to take my time, but I'm incredibly nervous about this whole thing because I admittedly don't have a hell if a lot of experience tearing down engines. Is there anything I should know? Any particular things I shouldn't do? I've been doing some 4AGE research but any advice helps. Thanks![/QUOTE] The engine's pretty simple ('70's technology), but I will say label the fucken valve shims and buckets. If you do not, you will be sad later. If you're not going to get the valves cut, you may as well label those too. Like I said earlier, do the oil and water pumps since the engine is out.

[QUOTE=Trilby Harlow;49901102]Why do you say that? I did a lot of research beforehand, and i know two longtime members of JCNA as well as two retired jaguar mechanics, and the consensus between all of that was that as long as you refresh the fluid in the transfer cases and differentials every 75-100k, it'd be very unusual for an X type to have any real problems before 350k. Maybe you're thinking of the 2000-2003ish XJ's? They had timing chain problems that would cause major cracking in the blocks which was fixed as production went on[/QUOTE] No, I'm thinking of the X type. They're terribly unreliable, slow, piss poor quality transverse engined mongrels. Myself and the other guys at Jaguar hate them with a firey passion. They're the least reliable of our whole misbegotten line of cars.

[QUOTE=CptVague;49909246]The engine's pretty simple ('70's technology), but I will say label the fucken valve shims and buckets. If you do not, you will be sad later. If you're not going to get the valves cut, you may as well label those too. Like I said earlier, do the oil and water pumps since the engine is out.[/QUOTE] Thank you!

Miata joined the I'm an old car and I won't start club. Cranks but no ignition. Currently trying to follow a guide from Miata.net to try and diagnosis. Have already narrowed it down a little. [QUOTE=Tmaxx;49907497]How can someone not like the pure rage that a rotary has? [video=youtube;LkQ6RRhNE9o]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LkQ6RRhNE9o[/video] It's fucking beautiful.[/QUOTE] Best Rotary of them all: [video=youtube_share;sxXtpMngivM]http://youtu.be/sxXtpMngivM?list=FLrQkd-G942CEqZkiiaoLf2Q[/video]

I talked to my uncle on the phone today and it turns out my grandpas truck actually never started right since the new motor was put in. It always took around 30 seconds of cranking. That makes me feel even better about fixing it.

[QUOTE=NO ONE;49909931]Miata joined the I'm an old car and I won't start club. Cranks but no ignition. Currently trying to follow a guide from Miata.net to try and diagnosis. Have already narrowed it down a little. Best Rotary of them all: [video=youtube_share;sxXtpMngivM]http://youtu.be/sxXtpMngivM?list=FLrQkd-G942CEqZkiiaoLf2Q[/video][/QUOTE] I just don't get how someone can drive this thing and not have a rock hard rager.

[QUOTE=viper shtf;49909628]No, I'm thinking of the X type. They're terribly unreliable, slow, piss poor quality transverse engined mongrels. Myself and the other guys at Jaguar hate them with a firey passion. They're the least reliable of our whole misbegotten line of cars.[/QUOTE] dude lol i'm a locksmith and we get calls out to open the doors on 03+ mazda 6 and jag x types (mostly the x type; but the ford mondeo, mazda 6, and x type share the platform) for the doors getting fucking stuck shut. Jaguar has this brilliant idea about making EVERYTHING ELECTRICALLY ACTUATED. So if the door lock actuator dies, you cannot open the door. Manual door lock is electric. Car battery dies, you're fucked. You have to destroy the door card to get the actuator out and force the door open. I also got called out on a 2010 XF, battery died, keys in trunk. Jaguar decides to: Make everything electronic. Owner couldn't open glove compartment to get manual, because electric. Trunk won't open, only electric. Can't juice the battery, no jump points under hood... battery in trunk (oh and there's no ground point either, you have to make one.) No trunk access from back seat (hole in middle) Basically he got fucked and had to shell out $300 for a key. Fucking lol.

could you not just slim jim it?

Well shit. Another friend totaled his shitbox. I'm also not saying shitbox lightly. It was a [I]shiiiiitbooooooox[/I] 96 accord, but with literally none of the upsides. Inside was literally full of garbage. But now its totaled and he needs a new car by [I]monday.[/I]

[QUOTE=viper shtf;49909628]No, I'm thinking of the X type. They're terribly unreliable, slow, piss poor quality transverse engined mongrels. Myself and the other guys at Jaguar hate them with a firey passion. They're the least reliable of our whole misbegotten line of cars.[/QUOTE] The car they are based on - the Ford Mondeo/Contour - is mechanically a relatively reliable vehicle (I owned one) but yeah the build quality in the Fords at least is abysmal. Dashboard panels are made with Ford's trademark Playskool Plastic and will warp and shift around from heat. Those things were [I]slapped[/I] together. Granted, the Jag will have far nicer bits and pieces on the inside. Unfortunately, Jaguar 'improved' the Ford with their usual "wtf were you thinking" engineering, like Amplar posted above.

it's closer to not having a huge hole in it [t]http://puu.sh/nCNO5.jpg[/t] except for that huge hole.

Found another stock hardtop samurai owner with some cool vidz [media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TNVjcx_-wKg[/media] I'm clearly not pushing mine hard enough. Here's another video of his that more closely approximates my driving conditions. [media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZpcOj5D9F-A[/media]

Bleh, I'm getting tired of this outboard engine. First it would crank slowly, then without the plugs in it cranked nicely, then it'd randomly crank or just spin, or do nothing, and now it seems entirely dead. And of course there's no information on it online.

[QUOTE=S31-Syntax;49911616]Well shit. Another friend totaled his shitbox. I'm also not saying shitbox lightly. It was a [I]shiiiiitbooooooox[/I] 96 accord, but with literally none of the upsides. Inside was literally full of garbage. But now its totaled and he needs a new car by [I]monday.[/I][/QUOTE] What are the upsides to a '96 Accord?

[QUOTE=CptVague;49912530]What are the upsides to a '96 Accord?[/QUOTE] Should be more clear, none of the upsides of a car that actually was taken care of. Not "refurbished" and sold by a damn chevron service center.

yea well one of the four new balljoints I put in last year just shit the bed on me. Guess I'll be doing that one over. Again. Probably the source of my clunk too. God damnit blazer. You have like 60 weeks left before I am ok selling you. 60. Lets get through these with ease.

[QUOTE=Amplar;49910694]dude lol i'm a locksmith and we get calls out to open the doors on 03+ mazda 6 and jag x types (mostly the x type; but the ford mondeo, mazda 6, and x type share the platform) for the doors getting fucking stuck shut. Jaguar has this brilliant idea about making EVERYTHING ELECTRICALLY ACTUATED. So if the door lock actuator dies, you cannot open the door. Manual door lock is electric. Car battery dies, you're fucked. You have to destroy the door card to get the actuator out and force the door open. I also got called out on a 2010 XF, battery died, keys in trunk. Jaguar decides to: Make everything electronic. Owner couldn't open glove compartment to get manual, because electric. Trunk won't open, only electric. Can't juice the battery, no jump points under hood... battery in trunk (oh and there's no ground point either, you have to make one.) No trunk access from back seat (hole in middle) Basically he got fucked and had to shell out $300 for a key. Fucking lol.[/QUOTE] Yep. So true. Their door latches haven't gotten any better either. I've replaced quite a few. Oh, try the threaded rod part of the spare tire holddown. It makes a passable ground.