Automotive Addicts Lounge V4 - Lube my pistons, baby - General

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I'm going back home to Seattle soon after moving away for 6 months and I want to finally get my precious aw11. There are a couple on clist. I want an SC with t-tops and there is one with 200k miles for $5k. Or one that's not SC with similar miles for $1.3k. I'm antsy.

The 5k is sort of a rough price unless it's in really good shape, but I only say that because I've seen similar in decent shape with fewer miles for cheaper, I could be totally wrong. But then again if it had all of its maintenance done on schedule you'll have a winner. I live in the rust belt so it's hard to get a decent MR2 period for me :v: also, make sure you check the t-tops for leaking, I think they have ways to fix it now but I hear the t-tops always leak

Doing some super cheapo repaint, this shit is pretty fun. I fucked up by not checking the forecast, so just as I finished touching up on bare spots it started raining. For the ral painting I'm gonna try using a spray gun if the equipment is any good, but plan A was to roll paint anyways. [T]https://hostr.co/file/lumIidWeS2ZN/Snapchat-2714246140950571930.jpg[/T] [editline]23rd March 2016[/editline] The fuck. Why is it vertical when the uploaded file was rotated, and opening in a new tab puts it in landscape.. [editline]23rd March 2016[/editline] I guess this is what people call 99% rust free?[t]https://hostr.co/file/nuvuU1lbhmCc/Snapchat--5667728989513345962.jpg[/t] I mean now there's even less rust because of the hole, soo...

[QUOTE=deathmog;49987454]The 5k is sort of a rough price unless it's in really good shape, but I only say that because I've seen similar in decent shape with fewer miles for cheaper, I could be totally wrong. But then again if it had all of its maintenance done on schedule you'll have a winner. I live in the rust belt so it's hard to get a decent MR2 period for me :v: also, make sure you check the t-tops for leaking, I think they have ways to fix it now but I hear the t-tops always leak[/QUOTE] I don't know how you guys feel about linking clist ads but here is the SC. [url]https://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/cto/5469216597.html[/url] Not the best condition but I want to keep this car forever when I get it :3

[QUOTE=Trekintosh;49987273]Good info, thanks. I was just thinking of Hondayota engines because when you look for complete running engines on Craigslist around here, you find Hondas and Toyotas right at the bottom of the price barrel. I'm not really looking for fabricating custom transmission adapters and such, I'd much rather just find a matching pair tranny/engine than anything else. I'm trying to get a running driving usable drivetrain for as little money as possible. I do love the idea of putting a diesel in something though, are there any small Cummins or Powerjokes for cheap? Or a subaru engine? Surely those boxers would be nice and usable, easy to fit in things.[/QUOTE] I'd go like KA24 or something Toyota then, those would probably be the easiest to retrofit into something for the cheapest price. If you go Nissan you should be able to pull off EFI since there will be plenty of aftermarket while if you go Toyota grabbing a 22R and going with a carb would be very easy to do. Diesel and cheap do not exist in the same sentence. Your best bet would be a 4BT Cummins if you want a "small cummins", the "big" diesel motors are heavy and expensive in every way though. Expect to pay top dollar for something with 300k and looks like it was dredged from the bottom of the ocean. Subaru stuff is very expensive and are really fat and wide. While I'm sure you could swap one into something you'll still have to fight the already fragile transmissions which probably wouldn't enjoy being dumped into something twice as heavy with a welded center diff to put the power to the rear. Unless you already have these parts laying about, I wouldn't even think about it.

[QUOTE=Castle;49987828]I don't know how you guys feel about linking clist ads but here is the SC. [url]https://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/cto/5469216597.html[/url] Not the best condition but I want to keep this car forever when I get it :3[/QUOTE] Oh wow, that looks pretty clean and I really dig that color. I would still try to haggle them down if you can, but that's just me. Mine is N/A so I'm not sure what to look for in terms of the supercharger, but definitely check [I]all[/I] the nooks and crannies for rust. If you can, open the rear trunk and try to peek behind the upholstery on the sides, rust tends to hide in there too. Check behind the plastic in the wheel wells too. Good luck! There's a few guides out there that tell you other things to check with the MK1b too.

Guys I suspected my girlfriend was cheating on me so I waited up underneath my car in the driveway one night and she got out of a black guys car and put her panties on underneath her dress. It was only then that I noticed my axle was bent and gasket cracked. What can I do to fix the gasket?

[QUOTE=CodeMonkey3;49987901]Guys I suspected my girlfriend was cheating on me so I waited up underneath my car in the driveway one night and she got out of a black guys car and put her panties on underneath her dress. It was only then that I noticed my axle was bent and gasket cracked. What can I do to fix the gasket?[/QUOTE] Oh.

[QUOTE=Castle;49987828]I don't know how you guys feel about linking clist ads but here is the SC. [url]https://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/cto/5469216597.html[/url] Not the best condition but I want to keep this car forever when I get it :3[/QUOTE] That entire car just looks like [I]fun[/I].

I'm across the country right now, but that car is basically in my town. I'm thinking of texting him my predicament (I won't be back for a few weeks still) and how it's my dream car. Possible haggling considering it's nearly 4 times more than this one [url]https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/5453617959.html[/url] But yeah, I love this car so much, and my last car was a na miata so I'm excited to possibly be back driving a fun car

[QUOTE=Castle;49988129]I'm across the country right now, but that car is basically in my town. I'm thinking of texting him my predicament (I won't be back for a few weeks still) and how it's my dream car. Possible haggling considering it's nearly 4 times more than this one [url]https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/5453617959.html[/url] But yeah, I love this car so much, and my last car was a na miata so I'm excited to possibly be back driving a fun car[/QUOTE] Yeah, definitely haggle. That white one is still very clean and a much better price, so long as everything is in good shape. Remember that MR2s are around 30 years old, and you're gonna start replacing things that have just gotten old. [editline]23rd March 2016[/editline] That being said, I would much rather buy the white one and put a few grand into it to fix any potential issues than paying 5 grand before fixing anything.

I guess I'm just overly excited for the SUPER CHARGED part hah.

Yeah I definitely feel you there, lol. Hey guys, has anyone used TopLine's stuff before? I'm shopping for what I need for the "new" engine that's going into the MR2. [url]https://imgur.com/a/gnyG7[/url] There's a guy I found a reddit willing to sell me all of this for around $150. What do you all think? I just don't want to spend the money and then have to replace everything again in a month.

[QUOTE=Ridge;49987283]I am a big fan of targas, too. But I don't like all that metal sticking around on the Miata when the top is down. I like having everything around my head and shoulders gone if I want it.[/QUOTE] But that would be a convertible, not a targa top?

[QUOTE=Del91;49988489]But that would be a convertible, not a targa top?[/QUOTE] Yes, it would. And I want a hard top convertible version of the new Miata, that goes all the way down. I'll probably have to settle for an aftermarket hard top option down the road.

[QUOTE=Ridge;49987165]Mazda just had their big reveal. I don't like it. [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/TXkV4tih.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE] it's better than most new cars

[QUOTE=CodeMonkey3;49987901]Guys I suspected my girlfriend was cheating on me so I waited up underneath my car in the driveway one night and she got out of a black guys car and put her panties on underneath her dress. It was only then that I noticed my axle was bent and gasket cracked. What can I do to fix the gasket?[/QUOTE] Knocking the battery out so the car will be unconscious and taking it to a very secluded area and lighting it on fire. Then you must gather the remains insert into a 55gal bucket or smaller depends on how much is left of your vehicle and fill the rest of the container with water so It will sink. Dump in the nearest and deepest lake. Problem solved. Its a messy job, but if your okay with getting dirty and greasy everything will be okay.

[QUOTE=slayer3032;49987865]I'd go like KA24 or something Toyota then, those would probably be the easiest to retrofit into something for the cheapest price. If you go Nissan you should be able to pull off EFI since there will be plenty of aftermarket while if you go Toyota grabbing a 22R and going with a carb would be very easy to do. [B]Diesel and cheap[/B] do not exist in the same sentence. Your best bet would be a 4BT Cummins if you want a "small cummins", the "big" diesel motors are heavy and expensive in every way though. Expect to pay top dollar for something with 300k and looks like it was dredged from the bottom of the ocean. [B]Subaru stuff [/B]is very expensive and are really fat and wide. While I'm sure you could swap one into something you'll still have to fight the already fragile transmissions which probably wouldn't enjoy being dumped into something twice as heavy with a welded center diff to put the power to the rear. Unless you already have these parts laying about, I wouldn't even think about it.[/QUOTE] That's a shame about the diesels, but I didn't know anything about diesel at all besides [I]torque[/I] so I figured I'd ask anyways. I only brought up Subaru because I can get a complete refurbished JDM EJ20 WRX engine for $1200 here from a dedicated JDM import shop (as well as a bunch of other JDM engines), but I'm definitely not gonna bother with something for known fragile transmissions, and I didn't even think about the whole AWD thing. Only option there would be a BRZ or FRS transmission, I guess, which is $$$$.

4bt/6bt is actually a perfectly reasonable option. Diesels aren't big scary complicating motors. Especially these. No computer, just one wire for the fuel shutoff solenoid and one for the glow plugs. All the tuning is done by tweaking the injection pump (fuel +/- and injection timing), and it should already be set right if you just get a motor out of a donor vehicle. After I figured out how my 7.3 idi worked, I can safely say that old diesels are far simpler than old gassers.

[QUOTE=Trekintosh;49989028]That's a shame about the diesels, but I didn't know anything about diesel at all besides [I]torque[/I] so I figured I'd ask anyways. I only brought up Subaru because I can get a complete refurbished JDM EJ20 WRX engine for $1200 here from a dedicated JDM import shop (as well as a bunch of other JDM engines), but I'm definitely not gonna bother with something for known fragile transmissions, and I didn't even think about the whole AWD thing. Only option there would be a BRZ or FRS transmission, I guess, which is $$$$.[/QUOTE] Well the BRZ/FRS motors/transmissions have different bellhousing patterns. If you do want to go EJ20, it turns out Bill Hincher the guy who made the J series powerglide adapter plate setup has made them for EJ20 to Toyota truck gearboxes. I'd really think mounting a boxer in a conventional engine bay might be a bitch though. [url]http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/107926-w-series-toyota-trans-adaptors/[/url] You should really go talk to the dudes at that engine depot, I'm positive they could find you something really really cost effective that's out of a lesser value SUV/Truck class JDM vehicle. They can even get you something with everything from the wiring harness, ecu, transmission, mounts and much of what you need. Money is the only limit really. B18B non-vtec motors run around 1000 while a GSR B18C run like 2000. However you can get a CRV/Orthia B20B for $450 which for most intents and purposes are exactly a B18B non-vtec motor but with 84mm pistons instead of 81mm and with some tall manifolds. Accord motors are worth half the price of Prelude motors despite being as good or better than their counter parts, ect. You could probably pick up a RB30 for 1/4th of the price of a RB25/RB26 too. [editline]22nd March 2016[/editline] [QUOTE=Birdman101;49989113]4bt/6bt is actually a perfectly reasonable option. Diesels aren't big scary complicating motors. Especially these. No computer, just one wire for the fuel shutoff solenoid and one for the glow plugs. All the tuning is done by tweaking the injection pump (fuel +/- and injection timing), and it should already be set right if you just get a motor out of a donor vehicle. After I figured out how my 7.3 idi worked, I can safely say that old diesels are far simpler than old gassers.[/QUOTE] The only downside to going cummins is that they're really damn heavy, I wouldn't even consider swapping a 6BT into anything remotely not a decent sized truck like ever. 4BT wouldn't be bad as long as the vehicle is of moderate size or a truck.

[QUOTE=slayer3032;49989205]Well the BRZ/FRS motors/transmissions have different bellhousing patterns. If you do want to go EJ20, it turns out Bill Hincher the guy who made the J series powerglide adapter plate setup has made them for EJ20 to Toyota truck gearboxes. I'd really think mounting a boxer in a conventional engine bay might be a bitch though. [url]http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/107926-w-series-toyota-trans-adaptors/[/url] You should really go talk to the dudes at that engine depot, I'm positive they could find you something really really cost effective that's out of a lesser value SUV/Truck class JDM vehicle. They can even get you something with everything from the wiring harness, ecu, transmission, mounts and much of what you need. Money is the only limit really. B18B non-vtec motors run around 1000 while a GSR B18C run like 2000. However you can get a CRV/Orthia B20B for $450 which for most intents and purposes are exactly a B18B non-vtec motor but with 84mm pistons instead of 81mm and with some tall manifolds. Accord motors are worth half the price of Prelude motors despite being as good or better than their counter parts, ect. You could probably pick up a RB30 for 1/4th of the price of a RB25/RB26 too. [editline]22nd March 2016[/editline] The only downside to going cummins is that they're really damn heavy, I wouldn't even consider swapping a 6BT into anything remotely not a decent sized truck like ever. 4BT wouldn't be bad as long as the vehicle is of moderate size or a truck.[/QUOTE] I do want to note this project is months off probably as I'd have to clean out the garage first, but I am just gathering all the info I can. I'm definitely not commited to Japanese vs USA or anything like that, I'm just going purely for price. Another concern is will these little motors have enough oomph to not only get out of their own way when placed in a massive lump of old steel, but also not blow up from the strain of hauling around way more weight than they were ever designed to. Also this is the JDM place: [url]http://www.jdmcalifornia.com/[/url] I'm not a JDM guy at all, as you guys probably have noticed, but even I am drooling over the price ratio here. Imagine putting an R34 engine in a Packard Super DeLuxe.

[QUOTE=Trekintosh;49989324]I do want to note this project is months off probably as I'd have to clean out the garage first, but I am just gathering all the info I can. I'm definitely not commited to Japanese vs USA or anything like that, I'm just going purely for price. Another concern is will these little motors have enough oomph to not only get out of their own way when placed in a massive lump of old steel, but also not blow up from the strain of hauling around way more weight than they were ever designed to. Also this is the JDM place: [url]http://www.jdmcalifornia.com/[/url] I'm not a JDM guy at all, as you guys probably have noticed, but even I am drooling over the price ratio here. Imagine putting an R34 engine in a Packard Super DeLuxe.[/QUOTE] The R34's RB25 would probably be a really good choice. The non-turbo 2JZ-GE's would be really reliable and easier to find parts. For both unfortunately automatics would be the only cost effective way to go since manuals for these demand a premium. They even have the Tacoma 3RZ's actually which aren't the most terrible deal with a trans and all that too. [url]http://www.jdmcalifornia.com/product/toyota-tacoma-2-7l-3rz-jdm-engine/[/url] JDM motors are fucking amazing, low mile fresh drivetrains for budget prices at least unless they have halo car tax. Some of these motors aren't the best though, Nissan motors aren't always the most reliable and things like the RB are difficult to find parts for sometimes. You should be worrying the most about how you're going to run it too. Hacking apart a stock harness and making your own if you even can isn't a fun project. Not everything will run off megasquirt nor will many standalones work out of the box on many motors without expensive as hell crank angle sensors aftermarket and the like. LS motors are great because they're dirt cheap and most of the wiring and ECU lives in the engine bay too. Many if not most Japanese cars have wiring harnesses which are highly connected to the interior chassis harness and will require much hacking apart and a half cut or donor car to provide it. JDM engines may even have a entirely different engine harness making a local junkyard harness still mostly useless as donor parts.

[QUOTE=slayer3032;49989620]The R34's RB25 would probably be a really good choice. The non-turbo 2JZ-GE's would be really reliable and easier to find parts. For both unfortunately automatics would be the only cost effective way to go since manuals for these demand a premium. They even have the Tacoma 3RZ's actually which aren't the most terrible deal with a trans and all that too. [url]http://www.jdmcalifornia.com/product/toyota-tacoma-2-7l-3rz-jdm-engine/[/url] JDM motors are fucking amazing, low mile fresh drivetrains for budget prices at least unless they have halo car tax. Some of these motors aren't the best though, Nissan motors aren't always the most reliable and things like the RB are difficult to find parts for sometimes. You should be worrying the most about how you're going to run it too. Hacking apart a stock harness and making your own if you even can isn't a fun project. Not everything will run off megasquirt nor will many standalones work out of the box on many motors without expensive as hell crank angle sensors aftermarket and the like. LS motors are great because they're dirt cheap and most of the wiring and ECU lives in the engine bay too. Many if not most Japanese cars have wiring harnesses which are highly connected to the interior chassis harness and will require much hacking apart and a half cut or donor car to provide it. JDM engines may even have a entirely different engine harness making a local junkyard harness still mostly useless as donor parts.[/QUOTE] Just how intricate would the wiring need to be? I was expecting a minimum of dashboard, speedo, lights, gear select, and accessories. ABS and TCS sensors, too, maybe? Would the ECU be happy enough without those? I'd be perfectly happy to skip them and just ignore ABS and TCS/ESM altogether. O2 sensors would be a must too, I suppose. What else is there?

[QUOTE=slayer3032;49989205] You could probably pick up a RB30 for 1/4th of the price of a RB25/RB26 too. [editline]22nd March 2016[/editline] [/QUOTE] An RB30E would have to imported from Australia, if you want any decent power you'd need to turbocharge it. Other wise it doesnt have much over, the previous L28E which are abundant in the USA, if you want RB power grab an RB25DET.

It's only been a few days and[URL="http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/_/SSE-AD-3891385"] that Vehicross [/URL]is down to 11,000. I'm actually starting to considering offering 2k just so I can get my foot in the door if nothing happens.

[QUOTE=FlandersNed;49990171]It's only been a few days and[URL="http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/_/SSE-AD-3891385"] that Vehicross [/URL]is down to 11,000. I'm actually starting to considering offering 2k just so I can get my foot in the door if nothing happens.[/QUOTE] I'm sorry but I think it's absolutely awful. Looks wise

[QUOTE=FlandersNed;49990171]It's only been a few days and[URL="http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/_/SSE-AD-3891385"] that Vehicross [/URL]is down to 11,000. I'm actually starting to considering offering 2k just so I can get my foot in the door if nothing happens.[/QUOTE] Are you sure you want to pay 11k for that? 11k can get you a lot more

[QUOTE=Jimmaye;49989713]An RB30E would have to imported from Australia, if you want any decent power you'd need to turbocharge it. Other wise it doesnt have much over, the previous L28E which are abundant in the USA, if you want RB power grab an RB25DET.[/QUOTE] If he were to consider getting something from aus, it should be either a f6 motor or an AU 6cyl (cos they're awesome). And since his exchange rate is so good he could probably afford both + shipping and have enough for the rest of his car.

[QUOTE=slayer3032;49987865]I'd go like KA24 or something Toyota then, those would probably be the easiest to retrofit into something for the cheapest price. If you go Nissan you should be able to pull off EFI since there will be plenty of aftermarket while if you go Toyota grabbing a 22R and going with a carb would be very easy to do. Diesel and cheap do not exist in the same sentence. Your best bet would be a 4BT Cummins if you want a "small cummins", the "big" diesel motors are heavy and expensive in every way though. Expect to pay top dollar for something with 300k and looks like it was dredged from the bottom of the ocean. Subaru stuff is very expensive and are really fat and wide. While I'm sure you could swap one into something you'll still have to fight the already fragile transmissions which probably wouldn't enjoy being dumped into something twice as heavy with a welded center diff to put the power to the rear. Unless you already have these parts laying about, I wouldn't even think about it.[/QUOTE] The Subaru 5MT isn't all that fragile, until you get up around 350HP and are doing launches. Upgraded gears are fairly cheap. LGT gears are better, aftermarket ones are the best but more expensive. There is the JDM/UK boxer diesel available, though not cheap. That'd be a unique swap.