Automotive Addicts Lounge V4 - Lube my pistons, baby
5,001 replies, posted
[QUOTE=deathmog;49988385]Yeah I definitely feel you there, lol.
Hey guys, has anyone used TopLine's stuff before?
I'm shopping for what I need for the "new" engine that's going into the MR2.
[url]https://imgur.com/a/gnyG7[/url]
There's a guy I found a reddit willing to sell me all of this for around $150.
What do you all think? I just don't want to spend the money and then have to replace everything again in a month.[/QUOTE]
Anybody?
[QUOTE=deathmog;49991227]Anybody?[/QUOTE]
I can say I have not heard of them before.
At first, I couldn't even find their real webpage.
It looks like a lot of places used to carry them (searching the part numbers in the photos brings up results, but the pages no longer have the parts), but at this point I only see them on their own webpage.
I don't see good, solid reviews. Personally, I wouldn't risk it.
[QUOTE=FlandersNed;49990171]It's only been a few days and[URL="http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/_/SSE-AD-3891385"] that Vehicross [/URL]is down to 11,000.
I'm actually starting to considering offering 2k just so I can get my foot in the door if nothing happens.[/QUOTE]
This is such a strange car to really want imo, I feel like you could get much better for whatever you're looking for out of a car for the money... I can understand feeling passionate for a car and not wanting anything else but it strikes me as a weird one to be that way about lol
[QUOTE=deathmog;49991227]Anybody?[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=FordLord;49991324]
I don't see good, solid reviews. Personally, I wouldn't risk it.[/QUOTE]
I prefer to stay in the realm of "We know this product works its been used over and over and is sold by just about every one". Fel Pro.
Okay thanks guys!
[QUOTE=Jimmaye;49989713]An RB30E would have to imported from Australia, if you want any decent power you'd need to turbocharge it. Other wise it doesnt have much over, the previous L28E which are abundant in the USA, if you want RB power grab an RB25DET.[/QUOTE]
I was under the impression the RB30 was a truck motor which came in like the Nissan Patrol and some other similar large vehicles? I just assumed it would be extremely cheap while still being on the RB platform. It wasn't really a serious recommendation but rather a example of similar motors on a platform being vastly cheaper to it's "high performance" counterparts just because it's from a different class of vehicle in Japan or something. I've never heard of them in the states so I assume no one actively cuts up those vehicles and sells them to a market where they didn't get imported to.
[QUOTE=Trekintosh;49989683]Just how intricate would the wiring need to be? I was expecting a minimum of dashboard, speedo, lights, gear select, and accessories. ABS and TCS sensors, too, maybe? Would the ECU be happy enough without those? I'd be perfectly happy to skip them and just ignore ABS and TCS/ESM altogether. O2 sensors would be a must too, I suppose. What else is there?[/QUOTE]
ABS would be an entirely different system, nothing uncomplicated would have TCS but what may complicate things greatly would be mid-late 90's automatic transmission computers or any automatic transmission computers if you go that route. There is usually a good bit more wiring soon as this comes in and unless you went like LS there's not gonna be a aftermarket trans controller.
All your sensors like o2, map, maf, tps and the like should be on the engine harness. Generally if a sensor is on the motor, it needs it to run. Pre-96 stuff definitely won't complain if you delete the evap but I think JDM cars have a temp sensor in the cat or something along those lines. Unless you go with a later year fancy car ecu, it shouldn't have any immobilizers or canbus stuff where you'd have to use the whole dash harness with a ton of extra computers or anything silly. Sometimes you'll have some sensors on your dash/chassis harness like a rear o2 or a reverse sensor
Each motor is going to be vastly different to get running. You're gonna want to pick something easier to fit into your chassis by oil sump placement and the like then figure out if it's easy to make work in a completely different chassis. If you don't see aftermarket harnesses made for the motor or standalone ecus being compatible with it that's generally not a good sign. You'll want something which can run independent of all of it's interior parts because you'll most likely be running your own gauges and inputs. For the most part, only a speedometer will be the difficult part to get working as far as gauges. The gear selector will have to be cut, hacked and fabbed into whatever you swap it into and your accessories will end at an alternator or possibly power steering if you want to get really creative or someone's done it before. Things like your fuel pump can be wired up using the ecu's outputs for relays but you can probably just hook that stuff to a switch and depin it from your engine loom.
Here's a rough image of what a aftermarket harness for a honda designed to replace all the engine harness wiring while still retaining all of the stock wiring. You basically just unplug the engine from the chassis harness then wire in a new one. The stock engine harness is removable at the shock tower but all of the ABS, headlight, fuse box and other chassis wiring comes through the firewall with the wiring that goes to the shock towers and comes from the ECU wiring. Here's all the wiring short of the engine harness in a standard 2000 fully optioned car.
[url]http://honda-tech.com/southern-california-sales-59/fs-00-01-integra-obd2b-gsr-cabin-dash-floor-wire-harness-2840131/[/url]
Now, almost none of that actually connects to the engine. Here's what a honda engine harness looks like just for reference. Almost all of this solely goes between the ECU and the engine.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/mil-spec-engineharnesslol.jpg[/t]
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/mil-spec-b-series-engine-harness_2.jpg[/t][t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/mil-spec-b-series-engine-harness-1.jpg[/t]
Now, here's an aftermarket harness. This is a fancy one with a mil-spec quick disconnect. If you ignore the "chassis plugs" and wiring you have 5 plugs now, the blue 5th to the right is for a injector resistor box so that's just a feature. The 3 to the left are your ECU plugs and you just toss that into your ECU. The 4th on the right which has the "chassis plugs" harness plugged into it is all of the wiring that actually goes back into the car. On a honda all of the gauge cluster inputs go over to the drivers side, go into the interior fuse panel then go into the gauge cluster. The plugs on this harness plug right into all that. The free wires are what actually make the car run only one of which is really "needed". The fuel pump relay wire, CEL light, service jumper/CEL flash wire, ELD and ECU constant memory. Some cars may pass signals through the gauge cluster to the ECU but that seems silly and only cable speedo hondas do this since the vss signal is generated at the cluster via cable. So it's possible you may have to get a little creative with a couple sensors at most. Since you'd be starting from scratch you would however need to create things like a "main relay" and use an ignition switch to safely supply power to it all too. Many ECUs also have inputs for brake switches, clutch switches and the like so some of that may pass through to the ECU, ect. I'm not really electrically knowledgeable but if you look at all the pin diagrams and look over whatever connects outside the engine harness and satisfy all it's needs you should be completely solid. If you can find aftermarket harnesses for your motor, doing this becomes a lot easier.
I usually leave out abs, tcs, etc. when I'm building a car. abs is a detriment in the dirt and tcs is for pussies. if you're smart enough for cadence braking then abs is redundant anyway
[QUOTE=deathmog;49988385]Yeah I definitely feel you there, lol.
Hey guys, has anyone used TopLine's stuff before?
I'm shopping for what I need for the "new" engine that's going into the MR2.
[url]https://imgur.com/a/gnyG7[/url]
There's a guy I found a reddit willing to sell me all of this for around $150.
What do you all think? I just don't want to spend the money and then have to replace everything again in a month.[/QUOTE]
Topline shit is okay, it's replacement quality stuff, not better than OE, but cheaper and will work with stock applications. I used to sell head sets/full gasket sets from them back in the day. OE head gasket is the way to go, outside of turbo applications.
[QUOTE=Aetna;49958423]
Not the mayonnaise. :( And only in two cylinders too... Whenever I hear "BMW" and "mayonnaise" in the same sentence I feel the need to punch something.[/QUOTE]
late reply but, nah no mayo in my engine. For some reason cylinders 1/6 had failed something which caused rust buildup (failed coil?)
[QUOTE=slayer3032;49986097] You could go K series which is cheaper than F20C but unless you get a K24 CRV lump you're gonna pay good money.[/QUOTE] K-series has more potential than the F20 as well. But it's still expensive.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;49986097]
You could go J series V6... Here's where we're gonna get crazy, custom and possibly expensive but you can find a J lump from any old Ddyssey, Pilot, TL or Accord for really cheap. Now there's basically two ways to go J RWD, there's a JV6 swap Miata kit which you can go out right now and buy but you're gonna pay 6x what you paid for the motor alone and you'd still need a Miata trans.
[URL]http://www.superfastmiatas.com/JV6 Miata Kit.html[/URL][/QUOTE]
This is indeed crazy. I kinda like it. For a Miata
[QUOTE=slayer3032;49986097]Otherwise, I'd go like KA24DE or maybe something Toyota like the 3RZ Tacoma motor. Both come in RWD and manual while being dirt cheap.[/QUOTE]
This is the answer and I don't even know what the fuck it's going into. The KA24 gets a lot of hate for no damn reason.
[QUOTE=CptVague;49995443]K-series has more potential than the F20 as well. But it's still expensive.
This is indeed crazy. I kinda like it. For a Miata
This is the answer and I don't even know what the fuck it's going into. The KA24 gets a lot of hate for no damn reason.[/QUOTE]
KA24's aren't bad at all but they need to be taken care of and gone over well. Old ass KA's that are beat in beat 240's are why they get hate. Shiban had a couple S13's and his was a straight nightmare of every issue the KA has ever. If you completely go through one, they're great but if you just slam in a junkyard KA you're probably gonna have a bad time. I don't think you can go wrong with one though, 240 guys dump KA24E's for gas money.
[QUOTE=gaboer;49995426]late reply but, nah no mayo in my engine. For some reason cylinders 1/6 had failed something which caused rust buildup (failed coil?)[/QUOTE]
coilpacks are your friend. Carry a spare one.
[url]http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/cto/5462001207.html[/url]
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA WHY DON'T I HAVE ANY MONEY I think I'm in love
[img]http://puu.sh/nRY0b/97787a24b2.jpg[/img]
At least I would be if the pictures weren't so damn blurry. I'd definitely be checking it out if I had 2 grand to spare.
[editline]24th March 2016[/editline]
It'd be the absolute perfect car to put a 1.0L ecoboost in if I could get ahold of one, too.
[QUOTE=Trekintosh;49996258][url]http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/cto/5462001207.html[/url]
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA WHY DON'T I HAVE ANY MONEY I think I'm in love
[img]http://puu.sh/nRY0b/97787a24b2.jpg[/img]
At least I would be if the pictures weren't so damn blurry. I'd definitely be checking it out if I had 2 grand to spare.
[editline]24th March 2016[/editline]
It'd be the absolute perfect car to put a 1.0L ecoboost in if I could get ahold of one, too.[/QUOTE]
[url]http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/pts/5494736810.html[/url]
[url]http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/pts/5454292990.html[/url]
[url]http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/pts/5451578529.html[/url]
[url]http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/pts/5489857035.html[/url]
[url]http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/pts/5490065991.html[/url]
[url]http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/pts/5502424907.html[/url]
[url]http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/pts/5463200804.html[/url]
[url]http://palmsprings.craigslist.org/pts/5467324325.html[/url]
[QUOTE=slayer3032;49996630][url]http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/pts/5494736810.html[/url]
[url]http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/pts/5454292990.html[/url]
[url]http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/pts/5451578529.html[/url]
[url]http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/pts/5489857035.html[/url]
[url]http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/pts/5490065991.html[/url]
[url]http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/pts/5502424907.html[/url]
[url]http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/pts/5463200804.html[/url]
[url]http://palmsprings.craigslist.org/pts/5467324325.html[/url][/QUOTE]
I'm not gonna swap out the original Crosley engine if it runs fine already unless it's for something that I seriously adore, which is basically either the 1.0 EcoBoost or some sort of psycho bike engine. The KA24E is nice but it doesn't have the panache of the others. As it is though I am seriously gonna try to sell some significant stuff to get the Crosley.
[editline]24th March 2016[/editline]
And now I feel bad cause you went to the effort of finding all those engines for me :(
It's highly unlikely that I'd actually get the Crosley, too, unfortunately. I'm just not sure if there's enough stuff I'd be able to sell before it someone else gets it. The listing has been up for 30 days, but I'm just not a lucky man.
A message from south jersey:
Fuck brake lines and rust.
Thank you.
I finally ran my new booster lines and the moment pedal pressure was applied the old line to the rear blew.
Jeep lyfe :v:
So turns out The '85 Celica was an ebay scam. But fear not, for I have found the ultimate vehicle.
BEHOLD!
[img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5027205/00707_7QCVbhGo422_600x450.jpg[/img]
[url]https://akroncanton.craigslist.org/cto/5501496957.html[/url]
[url]http://www.engineswapdepot.com/?p=9381[/url]
Oh my
However, I have found some ratty Civics for dirt cheap.
[url]https://akroncanton.craigslist.org/cto/5493494421.html[/url]
[url]https://akroncanton.craigslist.org/cto/5503961026.html[/url]
[url]https://akroncanton.craigslist.org/cto/5503794636.html[/url]
[QUOTE=DuCT;49999100]So turns out The '85 Celica was an ebay scam. But fear not, for I have found the ultimate vehicle.
BEHOLD!
[img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5027205/00707_7QCVbhGo422_600x450.jpg[/img]
[url]https://akroncanton.craigslist.org/cto/5501496957.html[/url][/QUOTE]
DP pls buy this vehicle
[QUOTE=Del91;49999111][url]http://www.engineswapdepot.com/?p=9381[/url]
Oh my[/QUOTE]
Why those rims tough :(
[QUOTE=Trekintosh;49996680]I'm not gonna swap out the original Crosley engine if it runs fine already unless it's for something that I seriously adore, which is basically either the 1.0 EcoBoost or some sort of psycho bike engine. The KA24E is nice but it doesn't have the panache of the others. As it is though I am seriously gonna try to sell some significant stuff to get the Crosley.
[editline]24th March 2016[/editline]
And now I feel bad cause you went to the effort of finding all those engines for me :(
It's highly unlikely that I'd actually get the Crosley, too, unfortunately. I'm just not sure if there's enough stuff I'd be able to sell before it someone else gets it. The listing has been up for 30 days, but I'm just not a lucky man.[/QUOTE]
I just searched KA24, KA24E and KA24DE and linked any postings which didn't look like crap and were actually engines lol. There's no transmissions that bolt upto the 1L EcoBoost and a quick google suggests no one is really putting them into things yet.
[QUOTE=Code3Response;49999215]DP pls buy this vehicle[/QUOTE]
Sorry bud, I like this one better. Has a lot more towing options and its a FULLSIZE.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1031910/Img%20Dump/2013-08-12%2014.50.42.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=Timezbrick;49999304]Why those rims tough :([/QUOTE]
Why a fucking RB20 is a far better question, imo. All the parts availability issues of the better RB engines, none of the potential!
Welp, the engine on my dad's 2000 Isuzu rodeo is toast. It barely hit 120k miles. We're in the process of debating whether it's worth it to fix a sub $2000 car despite it having new-ish tires, clutch, brakes, shocks, etc. or just getting a new Tacoma that will definitely hold its value over time.
So I'm thinking more and more about this car.
[url]https://akroncanton.craigslist.org/cto/5503794636.html[/url]
I want to learn stick, and it's cheap. Plus, it seems to be the perfect candidate for ratting it out. These things are easy to work on, right?
[QUOTE=ToastedBread;50001113]Welp, the engine on my dad's 2000 Isuzu rodeo is toast. It barely hit 120k miles. We're in the process of debating whether it's worth it to fix a sub $2000 car despite it having new-ish tires, clutch, brakes, shocks, etc. or just getting a new Tacoma that will definitely hold its value over time.[/QUOTE]
Did the timing belt blow?
[QUOTE=Trekintosh;49996258][url]http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/cto/5462001207.html[/url]
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA WHY DON'T I HAVE ANY MONEY I think I'm in love
[img]http://puu.sh/nRY0b/97787a24b2.jpg[/img]
At least I would be if the pictures weren't so damn blurry. I'd definitely be checking it out if I had 2 grand to spare.
[editline]24th March 2016[/editline]
It'd be the absolute perfect car to put a 1.0L ecoboost in if I could get ahold of one, too.[/QUOTE]
It was sold more than 2 weeks ago, never mind then.
so copper-nickel lines are the tits. This was the first time I've actually been hyped while doing brakelines.
All my MJ needs now is some coolant and it's ready to burn these shitty bald tires for youtube. and then to attempt DDing.
I'm so ready boys, straightpiped with a 5spd I missed this so much ;~;
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