Automotive Addicts Lounge V4 - Lube my pistons, baby - General

I got my license a few months after I turned 18. Then again, 18 is the required age in Norway to get a driving license for a car.

I got my learners permit at 14, restricted minors license at 15, and full license at 16. Midwest is best West. [editline]6th April 2016[/editline] [QUOTE=Serj22;50081386]In automotive news my third child was born last night. Emmet Maverick-Gunner who will be the most badass kid with a beard and horse by the age of 2.[/QUOTE] Is this an analogy for you buying another dart?

[QUOTE=Minimole;50081823]I got my drivers license today or what in British Columbia is called my "N" which means new driver so I can drive on my own. Never told any of you guys cause it seemed embarrassing I only just got my license at 19[/QUOTE] I didn't get a license until 18, only difference is I just spent my first 4 years driving without a license. it was kind of the usual back then

[QUOTE=Birdman101;50082122]I got my learners permit at 14, restricted minors license at 15, and full license at 16. Midwest is best West. [editline]6th April 2016[/editline] Is this an analogy for you buying another dart?[/QUOTE] Nope. Real child. All my fb friends on here can check there and see. It's legit. Buying another dart is not on the radar for at least like .......... A week or something.

[QUOTE=Serj22;50082866]Nope. Real child. All my fb friends on here can check there and see. It's legit. Buying another dart is not on the radar for at least like .......... A week or something.[/QUOTE] huh, neat ...you gonna turbo it? [editline]6th April 2016[/editline] if you do, make sure to put something around the wastegate, I hear those can get a little messy on real childs.

[url]http://jackson.craigslist.org/cto/5521224578.html[/url] someone loan me $7500

[I]"The brake system will also have to be gone through"[/I] welp, its scrap metal

[QUOTE=Birdman101;50083603][I]"The brake system will also have to be gone through"[/I] welp, its scrap metal[/QUOTE] however bad it is I've driven worse conveniently if it's actually bad enough to potentially kill me, it's not that hard or expensive to adapt GM brake parts to fit.

[QUOTE=Minimole;50081823]... Never told any of you guys cause it seemed embarrassing I only just got my license at 19[/QUOTE] Dont worry. I got my license 11 years ago. Something something my insurance rates are x amount of dollars. Etc etc

well you know as easy and inexpensive as replacing a whole brake system can be.

I filled a old generators holes with MMO and let her sit for ~2months. Finally got around to breaking her free today. I got all excited and hooked 12v to it and hit the electric start. I did not think about what I was about to do. About that time liquid pong noise and all of a sudden #MoneyShot. Remember guys before you get all excited thing about the situation and make sure your not in the firing line of the cylinders discharge. Tomorrow see if her starter will even turn it over with full compression, clean out carb and shoot gas down her throat and see if we can get a explosion out of it. I also hope one of the cylinders decide it wants to be higher compression, 70 | 120 so I hope the rings are just stuck.

70 psi will run fine, just not ideal at all

I think I got my tofu car fixed. Changed out the fuel filter and pressure regulator. The filter was actually pretty nasty, might've been the original 31 year old fuel filter that came with the car. Took it for a spin, filled the tank, floored it on the highway and I think the issue's resolved. It didn't bog down on me. [thumb]http://i.imgur.com/SFW4bQl.jpg[/thumb] [thumb]http://i.imgur.com/Mh1BpLK.jpg[/thumb] [thumb]http://i.imgur.com/CmLbbS7.jpg[/thumb]

[QUOTE=Plate Phelps;50084440]I think I got my tofu car fixed. Changed out the fuel filter and pressure regulator. The filter was actually pretty nasty, might've been the original 31 year old fuel filter that came with the car. Took it for a spin, filled the tank, floored it on the highway and I think the issue's resolved. It didn't bog down on me. [thumb]http://i.imgur.com/SFW4bQl.jpg[/thumb] [thumb]http://i.imgur.com/Mh1BpLK.jpg[/thumb] [thumb]http://i.imgur.com/CmLbbS7.jpg[/thumb][/QUOTE] Awesome!

[QUOTE=Minimole;50081823]I got my drivers license today or what in British Columbia is called my "N" which means new driver so I can drive on my own. Never told any of you guys cause it seemed embarrassing I only just got my license at 19[/QUOTE] Meh I've been driving since 12 (benefits of growing up in the middle of nowhere in alabama) but didn't get an actual license til 18 cause I never took drivers ed but for some reason I could just magically drive at 18 :speechless:

[QUOTE=Plate Phelps;50084440]I think I got my tofu car fixed. Changed out the fuel filter and pressure regulator. The filter was actually pretty nasty, might've been the original 31 year old fuel filter that came with the car. Took it for a spin, filled the tank, floored it on the highway and I think the issue's resolved. It didn't bog down on me. [thumb]http://i.imgur.com/SFW4bQl.jpg[/thumb] [thumb]http://i.imgur.com/Mh1BpLK.jpg[/thumb] [thumb]http://i.imgur.com/CmLbbS7.jpg[/thumb][/QUOTE] How have I not seen this car before? Dude that looks beautiful!

crosspost from another forum because I figure it might help someone. nobody ever talks about dynamic compression because nobody really knows anything about it, but me being the lunatic I am have a pretty good grasp [quote]compression is supposed to be ambient air pressure * compression ratio (more on that later). so for example at sea level a compression ratio of 10:1 would be 147 PSI. you said in your intro that you're from south texas, so figuring you're at 500 feet (14.44 PSI) with the straight plug head (11 cc) on a 66cc that's about 86 PSI, with a slant head closer to 105, with a 7cc billet head around 135, a 6cc billet head is 158, a 5.3 is 179, and anything smaller is weirdo with a race bike territory that most vendors don't sell because they know the average consumer won't know where to buy race gas and will blame it on the vendor when the detonation they didn't notice blows a hole in the piston and then there's me, the weirdo with a race bike who knows where to get race gas. I'm running a shaved down fred head with a 4.8cc combustion chamber on a 69cc factory stroker, and since I'm at sea level I'm running a theoretical 211.68 PSI compression. now it's time to tell you to ignore everything I said completely, because it's all used static compression ratios when dynamic is what really matters. I assume you know what static compression ratio is, but if not it's the ratio between the volume of your cylinder and the volume of your cylinder head. dynamic compression ratio is a little more complicated, it's your static compression ratio minus the compressible fluid lost out of your ports or past your rings or head gasket if they're not sealing. people don't realize that the reason expansion chambers work so well is because they effectively increase the dynamic compression closer to the usually very high theoretical compression through a particular RPM band by shoving what compressible fluid gets lost out the ports on the compression stroke back in. dynamic compression ratio is always way lower than static. I would never be able to get away with my 14.4:1 compression ratio in a 4 stroke gasoline engine, 14.4:1 is on the low end of what you see in diesel engines. the easy way to find your dynamic compression ratio is to measure your stroke minus however far the exhaust port is opened. so my actual dynamic compression ratio is around 8.95:1, which in a 4 stroke would equate to 131.6 PSI. now it's time for a second considerably smaller wrench in the system. crankcase compression. my crankcase compression ratio is 1.5:1. fortunately all you have to do is multiply that last figure (136.1) times your crankcase compression ratio. the figure I come up with is 197.4 PSI, which is almost dead on the money the figure I get when I do a compression test. if your rings and head gasket aren't suspect, you'll also get the same figure when you do the same math the formula is D = pi (bore^2) * stroke while exhaust port is closed (aka corrected compression ratio) R = D / displacement of the cylinder head P = R * atmospheric pressure C = P * crankcase compression ratio (stock is 1.1-1.2 depending on which engine you got) when compression testing a 4 stroke, you want as close to variable P as possible, when testing a 2 stroke you want as close to C as possible. if you've gone over, you've either done the math wrong or your pistons are shaped funny, or as crassius says it's currently flooded[/quote]

[QUOTE=Plate Phelps;50084440]I think I got my tofu car fixed. Changed out the fuel filter and pressure regulator. The filter was actually pretty nasty, might've been the original 31 year old fuel filter that came with the car. Took it for a spin, filled the tank, floored it on the highway and I think the issue's resolved. It didn't bog down on me. [thumb]http://i.imgur.com/SFW4bQl.jpg[/thumb] [thumb]http://i.imgur.com/Mh1BpLK.jpg[/thumb] [thumb]http://i.imgur.com/CmLbbS7.jpg[/thumb][/QUOTE] Nice relic

[QUOTE=Plate Phelps;50084440]I think I got my tofu car fixed. Changed out the fuel filter and pressure regulator. The filter was actually pretty nasty, might've been the original 31 year old fuel filter that came with the car. Took it for a spin, filled the tank, floored it on the highway and I think the issue's resolved. It didn't bog down on me. [thumb]http://i.imgur.com/SFW4bQl.jpg[/thumb] [thumb]http://i.imgur.com/Mh1BpLK.jpg[/thumb] [thumb]http://i.imgur.com/CmLbbS7.jpg[/thumb][/QUOTE] Gorgeous whip!

As of friday this week the s40 will be mine. Keep a look out in the coming weeks as I have plans to turn it into a blasphemous jayyy deeee emmmmm parody of a car. It will involvo (sry) a full size Swedish flag flying off the rear bumper. Excited.

Attention everyone: [quote][url=http://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/buying-maintenance/news/a28733/new-e39-m5-e46-m3-for-sale/]Enthusiast Auto Group is selling a 2004 M3 with just [I]494 [/I]miles for $99,990, and a 2003 E39 M5 with [I]309 [/I]miles for $149,990[/url][/quote] [sp]Absurd prices, even for the mileage. But I know I'd still buy them if I could![/sp]

Alright, I'm going to get a $1400 tax return this year, so I've been looking at suspension parts to fix up my 9-5. I finally settled on the [URL="http://www.partsforsaabs.com/product_info.php?cPath=2_189_206&products_id=4398"]Bilstein B8 shocks with some Lesjøfors lowering springs from Maptun[/URL], and this assortment of bushings and balljoints: [t]http://i.imgur.com/LGHl8Uk.png[/t] All in all it comes in at around $1100, not counting the alignment and making it legal, but that shouldn't be too bad.

[QUOTE=butre;50085894]crosspost from another forum because I figure it might help someone. nobody ever talks about dynamic compression because nobody really knows anything about it, but me being the lunatic I am have a pretty good grasp[/QUOTE] 2 strokes are so much easier, it's laughable the amount of kids who slam 12.5:1(or more) pistons into a otherwise stock D series motor and expect it to be a race motor. Good thing they get it street tuned normally because if they put that garbage on a dyno they'll figure out that they made exactly the same as a proper rebuild/tune would have. They're now knock limited, the cam profile doesn't suit the compression and overall the head still flows like poop. It's nowhere near as easy with 4 strokes since an overall package of many parts go into a overall performance increase. That said I'd still love to toss some high comp pistons in a single cam, get it all balanced out and slam a $80 cam regrind in it from Delta with some valve springs then top it all off with RDX injectors to run E85 for maybe about $500 in parts. Since this article, everyone has had a total hardon for GX pistons which I think have since tripled in price because of it. [url]http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/engine/htup-0708-wrenchin-d16a6/[/url] It's pretty crazy what these motors can make coming from being like 105hp, I'd personally skip the stroker crank since D16's are already a decent amount of a stroker compared to say the D13's, D14's and D15's the platform was initially designed for. [editline]7th April 2016[/editline] [QUOTE=Gulen;50088158]Alright, I'm going to get a $1400 tax return this year, so I've been looking at suspension parts to fix up my 9-5. I finally settled on the [URL="http://www.partsforsaabs.com/product_info.php?cPath=2_189_206&products_id=4398"]Bilstein B8 shocks with some Lesjøfors lowering springs from Maptun[/URL], and this assortment of bushings and balljoints: [t]http://i.imgur.com/LGHl8Uk.png[/t] All in all it comes it at around $1100, not counting the alignment and making it legal, but that shouldn't be too bad.[/QUOTE] Replace all your swaybar hardware too if you're gonna go through the trouble of the rest of it, if you spend all that doing the swaybar links and bushings would be worth every cent afterwards.

I did the front swaybar bushings and the right hand link last summer. I've got a spare link kicking about, so I might pop it in at the same time. Rear swaybar would be another $50. I might do it, I'll have to look into how much the shipping for the bushings will be, as well as the alignment before I do anything. [editline]7th April 2016[/editline] Also, the coolant dropped down to ~60C this last winter when doing long distance driving, could it be time to replace the thermostat?

I keep finding videos of people turboing their MAGNUM 318 motors... Must resist the boost... Still need to finish my SC V6 first. Grr.

I want a motorcycle. :(

I really want to buy a Nissan Silvia S14, a Nissan Skyline R32 GTR or a Mazda RX-7 FD.

[QUOTE=Birdman101;50083137]huh, neat ...you gonna turbo it? [editline]6th April 2016[/editline] if you do, make sure to put something around the wastegate, I hear those can get a little messy on real childs.[/QUOTE] The waste gate has a turbo blanket on it to solve that. Paint job came out weird I expected it to be darker but it's like straight white.

Cleaned the head up today and took it apart. Went to a really awesome truck repair place that cleaned it for free! The head guy even gave me a tour of the place while we waited for it to be cleaned. [t]http://i.imgur.com/JNusp06.jpg[/t][t]http://i.imgur.com/SyBL1Yd.jpg[/t] Super clean compared to before. [t]http://i.imgur.com/PD7kdVQ.jpg[/t][t]http://i.imgur.com/yG41yHx.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/lUDAM7x.jpg[/t][t]http://i.imgur.com/0QGAAN2.jpg[/t] Then I took it apart in my apartment. [t]http://i.imgur.com/AIWC1et.jpg[/t][t]http://i.imgur.com/puaV3sa.jpg[/t] Don't spill oil on the floor. :v: [t]http://i.imgur.com/TX0bXly.jpg[/t][t]http://i.imgur.com/S552N34.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/gsQGiBz.jpg[/t]

Ended up having to buy a cheap set of wrenches, $8 for 11. Part of my truck is Metric, part is standard. I'm not 100% sure, but I think engine componants are metric, body/suspension are standard mostly. Either way, thanks to them, I was able to tighten my high idle solenoid bracket and have high idle for the first time. I thought the solenoid was dead, which is very costly due to rarity. I scored a good set of visors, $6 for a set. Very dirty, but were a simple restoration project. Clorox wiped, then vinyl cleaner used, then vinyl protectant. It feels much softer, looks 10x better in person. Bottom is how they were when I got them, top is restored; [T]http://i.imgur.com/9ed0W2D.jpg[/t] My oem set has cracks, and a mirror glued to the passenger visor. I plan to get a clip on mirror for the passenger side. Only hard part is; I need to copy/replicate a special Diesel sticker that is on the driver's visor. It is not in production or reproduction, I see no pictures at all online.