Automotive Addicts Lounge V4 - Lube my pistons, baby - General

[QUOTE=Oscar Lima Echo;50138493] This might sound pretty stupid, as I haven't tried bikes since at least 8 years ago, but why doesn't the throttle just go forwards instead of backwards?[/QUOTE] Braking: Like it's now, you come off the throttle as you move your hand towards the front brake, if you had it the other way around, you'd accelerate when going for the brake.

[QUOTE=Gulen;50138604]Braking: Like it's now, you come off the throttle as you move your hand towards the front brake, if you had it the other way around, you'd accelerate when going for the brake.[/QUOTE] ohhh fuck ofcourse.

[QUOTE=Oscar Lima Echo;50138493]I'm gonna "plastidip" the same way the skirts are done, and have two tone. [editline]15th April 2016[/editline] This might sound pretty stupid, as I haven't tried bikes since at least 8 years ago, but why doesn't the throttle just go forwards instead of backwards?[/QUOTE] Skip the plastidip, it works terrible as trim paint. There's a ton of automotive trim paints out there, SEM makes a really damn good one but it's a touch spendy for what was a "$40 paint job". Pretty sure plastidip as well would end up doubling your cost easily too.

Jeez, explain this shit, i sanded down my steelies to bare metal and painter them with bbq paint last fall, now theyre eaten through with rust. [T]http://i.imgur.com/b0OHhn1.jpg[/t] Fuck the rust belt. Fuck it so hard.

[QUOTE=Birdman101;50139944]Jeez, explain this shit, i sanded down my steelies to bare metal and painter them with bbq paint last fall, now theyre eaten through with rust. [T]http://i.imgur.com/b0OHhn1.jpg[/t] Fuck the rust belt. Fuck it so hard.[/QUOTE] It's all in the prep work. There are many reasons it could bubble like that so fast, not directly caused by salt. Once you get it down to bare metal, you'd want to prep the surface with a good rust converter. Even though it looks bare, there's likely tiny pits of rust left in the wheel that'd be hard to remove. I've repainted steels and had them last a good while.

[QUOTE=FordLord;50140354]It's all in the prep work. There are many reasons it could bubble like that so fast, not directly caused by salt. Once you get it down to bare metal, you'd want to prep the surface with a good rust converter. Even though it looks bare, there's likely tiny pits of rust left in the wheel that'd be hard to remove. I've repainted steels and had them last a good while.[/QUOTE] Its only chipped off in one or two spots, on most of it the paint just became one with the rust. If i do them again, id want to dig out my sandblaster and use it. Rust it starting to show through the hole i patched and treated with por15 last fall too. Maybe I should just give up the battle against rust and embrace how it makes my car look like an old pile of trash. Fuck its so depressing, the last model year crown vic, melting into dust already.

Move west

Yea man.. the more I dig into the Audi the more I find, too. It's hell. It seems like no matter what you do it finds a way to come back.. sometimes sooner than others. Every nook and cranny in a car is like a spot just waiting for one tiny pin hole in the paint to happen then water and salt and shit gets in and all hell brakes loose and a year later it's a hole the size of your fist. I figured out why 1/2 of the rocker / pinch weld was rusty on this Audi, too. Front the front tire to about halfway back was horrible, then it was perfect and rust free. In between was a big hole. I started digging (with my grinder) and found that they must've cut out and replaced the front half of the rocker... it joined together halfway back there.. I don't know what they did but they sure fucked that up. And I ripped off the driver's fender because that's going to need to deep prep work. Scraped all the old shit seam sealer out of the rear wheel well. And I finished off by cutting out the rusty hole area in front of the rear wheel. It's looking more.. do-able. I'd say there's 4 major spots to attend to. -Replace the front half of the driver's rocker.. probably just bend something up, it's under a side skirt. I just don't want it rotting. -Patch the hole in front of the rear tire -Attend to the rust starting over the entire rear wheel well.. including getting to bare metal and then sealing properly. Finish the entire inner wheel well in bedliner to really, really seal that shit. -Behind the rear wheel well where the quarter meets the unibody where it's supposed to be spot welded... it was seam sealed together only!!! Sure as shit I peeled the two parts in half and a chunk of "glue" fell out from in between them. It's all rust that's just starting in that area, so it's clean and seal and hell.. maybe even weld it together. From there it's nothing too special, though.

I like almost everything else about here, just hate that nothing I own will stay nice because I don't have the patience to keep fixing rust on my vehicles.

Pick something up from down south and seal the hell out of it. Bed line the rockers, undercoat the hell out of it, all that jazz. Seems like it's the only way.

[QUOTE=clutch2;50140681]Pick something up from down south and seal the hell out of it. Bed line the rockers, undercoat the hell out of it, all that jazz. Seems like it's the only way.[/QUOTE] [URL="http://www.kenteurope.com/en/products/rubber-guard"]Rubber-guard[/URL] the rocker panels and under+cavity coating by someone who knows their shit. Maybe also plastic wheel well liners.

My Impreza spent 12ish years in the northern salt, it's pretty bad. Needs new rockers, new quarters. I started working on it, but it's a lot of work to do. The underbody and structural areas are great, it's just the usual body areas. My truck is from the south, but has rust for some reason. Cab corners, one rocker, and possibly the entire bed will be replaced. Other than that, it's very clean.

[QUOTE=FordLord;50142078]My Impreza spent 12ish years in the northern salt, it's pretty bad. Needs new rockers, new quarters. I started working on it, but it's a lot of work to do. The underbody and structural areas are great, it's just the usual body areas. My truck is from the south, but has rust for some reason. Cab corners, one rocker, and possibly the entire bed will be replaced. Other than that, it's very clean.[/QUOTE] Probably been used near sea or salt lake at one point in its life.

my truck has been in salt water and doesn't have any rust other than the usual surface rust on the underside

[QUOTE=butre;50142169]my truck has been in salt water and doesn't have any rust other than the usual surface rust on the underside[/QUOTE] My vehicle has been through 16 salty winters and it doesnt have any other rust than the usual and expected. No holes in the frame, nothing chipping away, etc.

Finally got these damn foglights put in. It was a bitch, because those black covers on mine were kinda worn and they were sorta molded into the frame. I had to actually cut one out because it was slightly melted. But the results look amazing to me. Now I just have to take them to the dealership because they apparently need to be activated... kinda stupid but whatever. I think I am finally done with exterior mods. [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/SYUueL7h.jpg[/IMG] So, does anyone have any suggestions for what I should do next with it? I want to do something with performance, but I am unsure at this point what to get. I'd like to get a CAI but I hear they really aren't worth putting in.

Im still deciding on what I want to do with my 300zx, forge it and big turbo? 5.3, forge it and big turbo? or maybe a 6.0? Hell someone offered me there LS3 with manual tranny and everything for 8 grand, which I didn't have and was way out of my budget but still!

[QUOTE=crazycory65;50143492]Im still deciding on what I want to do with my 300zx, forge it and big turbo? 5.3, forge it and big turbo? or maybe a 6.0? Hell someone offered me there LS3 with manual tranny and everything for 8 grand, which I didn't have and was way out of my budget but still![/QUOTE] 5.3's are cheap with a 4l60e I grabbed mine for a grand including the ecu and harness. The issue you have when you stair at your full truck related accessory's and think "this will never work in my tiny car" then you get to shell out more money for all the drive belt stuff. Lets not mention the amount of money you would have to spend / get creative with if you don't get a harness or ecu. They are cheap. Great sounding engines. Cant contest about their power yet because I need to work on the suburban more before I fell its okay to slap more power into it. (I hate how 4x4 systems feel like its make out of sticks)

so I installed new Rotors and pads today and went out to test them, and one wheel is making a rubbing noise. It's not the usual sound from pads being on the rotor, in fact it's not even a constant sound. It only makes the noise at a certain point in every wheel revolution, so obviously it gets faster the faster the wheel spins. I'm thinking there's something uneven about the rotor, since if it was the caliper or dust shield the noise would be constant. I don't know how a rotor could be uneven with a wheel over it though. Any ideas?

[QUOTE=lope;50144305]so I installed new Rotors and pads today and went out to test them, and one wheel is making a rubbing noise. It's not the usual sound from pads being on the rotor, in fact it's not even a constant sound. It only makes the noise at a certain point in every wheel revolution, so obviously it gets faster the faster the wheel spins. I'm thinking there's something uneven about the rotor, since if it was the caliper or dust shield the noise would be constant. I don't know how a rotor could be uneven with a wheel over it though.[/QUOTE] Yeah, sounds like a unevenly mounted or warped brake disk/rotor.

[QUOTE=lope;50144305]so I installed new Rotors and pads today and went out to test them, and one wheel is making a rubbing noise. It's not the usual sound from pads being on the rotor, in fact it's not even a constant sound. It only makes the noise at a certain point in every wheel revolution, so obviously it gets faster the faster the wheel spins. I'm thinking there's something uneven about the rotor, since if it was the caliper or dust shield the noise would be constant. I don't know how a rotor could be uneven with a wheel over it though. Any ideas?[/QUOTE] Most likely dust shield. I've had it happen a few times at work where I hear a scraping sound like you describe. Jack it up and push the dust shield back where you can manage, and go for a little test drive.

[QUOTE=Ldesu;50144359]Most likely dust shield. I've had it happen a few times at work where I hear a scraping sound like you describe. Jack it up and push the dust shield back where you can manage, and go for a little test drive.[/QUOTE] I thought it was the dust shield too, but if the dust shield was interfering with the rotor, then wouldn't the noise be constant so long as the wheels are spinning? The noise I'm getting occurs in only a certain point per rotation. Strangely, it stopped when the car was jacked up, and stayed gone after we lowered it again. Only after like 2 minutes of driving did it come back. [editline]16th April 2016[/editline] [QUOTE=Van-man;50144313]Yeah, sounds like a unevenly mounted or warped brake disk/rotor.[/QUOTE] The rotor has one screw in it instead of the usual two, but the other side only has one screw too and there's no such noise there. Also, with 5 lug nuts and wheel pressing down on it, I'd think that would even it out regardless of the amount of screws. These are brand new I hope they didn't come in warped.

[QUOTE=lope;50144400]The rotor has one screw in it instead of the usual two, but the other side only has one screw too and there's no such noise there. Also, with 5 lug nuts and wheel pressing down on it, I'd think that would even it out regardless of the amount of screws. These are brand new I hope they didn't come in warped.[/QUOTE] Dirt or rust between rotor and hub surface. I'm always cleaning both rotor and hub mating surface with clinical precision to avoid what you're experiencing.

[QUOTE=lope;50144400]I thought it was the dust shield too, but if the dust shield was interfering with the rotor, then wouldn't the noise be constant so long as the wheels are spinning? The noise I'm getting occurs in only a certain point per rotation. Strangely, it stopped when the car was jacked up, and stayed gone after we lowered it again. Only after like 2 minutes of driving did it come back.[/QUOTE] Actually no. When I've had the dust shield scraping it's been exactly like you've explained the noise strangely enough.

I took out my Mustang for the summer, also installed my new springs that lowered it about 2". [thumb]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3024347/20160414.png[/thumb] I need to fix the headlights as they are very foggy. If I were to sand and polish them, do you know if Meguiars headlight protectant is any good? Or should I use a clear coat?

[QUOTE=Smith;50144706]I took out my Mustang for the summer, also installed my new springs that lowered it about 2". [thumb]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3024347/20160414.png[/thumb] I need to fix the headlights as they are very foggy. If I were to sand and polish them, do you know if Meguiars headlight protectant is any good? Or should I use a clear coat?[/QUOTE] Did you get an alignment done after lowering it? Lowering a car might, or rather will to a certain point, affect the wheel alignment so you'd have to "reset" them since the lower stance is the new default. Also Meguiars is what the car detailing shop at my work use all the time and they get great results with it and have polished plenty of headlights with it before so I guess it's more than good enough.

[QUOTE=Ldesu;50144766]Did you get an alignment done after lowering it? Lowering a car might, or rather will to a certain point, affect the wheel alignment so you'd have to "reset" them since the lower stance is the new default. Also Meguiars is what the car detailing shop at my work use all the time and they get great results with it and have polished plenty of headlights with it before so I guess it's more than good enough.[/QUOTE] Okay thanks. Yeah I bought camber bolts and got them aligned.

Sup dudes, it's been a bit since I posted, mostly because life stuff. So, the most recent place I was working just closed it's doors. The owner bob had been trying to sell for like, 3 years and only JUST had some dude come and buy the place. It's now a home AC joint and Idgaf about all that. But a friend of his does painting and mechanic stuff, and gave me a job outright. So I have so far done pretty good keeping work, even though it seems almost every place I've worked at has had some kinda strange issue but what ever. Things happen. So now I get to join the ranks (soonish~) of those whom paint their own cars and those of others, but that'll come later, my own car is going to be my test bed to to high skill(maybe) over time. On car stuff, changed my rear rotors because every time I braked the whole damn car would shake and the harder I braked the more violent it would get. Got fed up and changed em', seems to have fixed the issue. Then I decided that huge muffler* I got had to go as I could no longer hear anything aside from it whilst driving. Got 2 resonators from and old Cadillac and was going to weld them side by side but misjudged the side and length, so there only one for the time being till I can figure out a better game plan. Nice and quiet with some good sound without being to quiet, leaks a bit but that's gonna be rectified before the day is over. *see: loudener [editline]16th April 2016[/editline] [QUOTE=Smith;50144706]I took out my Mustang for the summer, also installed my new springs that lowered it about 2". [thumb]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3024347/20160414.png[/thumb] I need to fix the headlights as they are very foggy. If I were to sand and polish them, do you know if Meguiars headlight protectant is any good? Or should I use a clear coat?[/QUOTE] If you do sand them, wet sand with 800 to 1000 grit and then buff them with buffing compound. You can clear them after, but try and do 2 thinish coats so it won't peel later down the line. Practice this alot first on something you care not for and do it on medium-low speed, just to get the hang of it if you've never done it before, you don't want to fuck up your headlights with a $200 "oops". Buff it too fast and it'll heat the plastic and warp/melt/fog/haze it. Most people prefer to use this kinda setup. ignore the bottle. [t]http://codemonkeycrew.com/Portals/7/ArticleImages/2010_a/Headlights/Headlight_8.JPG[/t]

[QUOTE=Smith;50144706] I need to fix the headlights as they are very foggy. If I were to sand and polish them, do you know if Meguiars headlight protectant is any good? Or should I use a clear coat?[/QUOTE] Once you get them cleaned up, put some Opti-coat on them. It's expensive ($60), but the shit works and the amount you get is enough for a couple of cars. Otherwise you will have to keep hitting them with headlight compound every couple of months.

Did the annual tire rotation today. Looks like the rear brace is starting to break up. A piece the size of my hand fell out.