Automotive Addicts Lounge V4 - Lube my pistons, baby
5,001 replies, posted
[QUOTE=DPKiller;50334928]I like thoes vinage firestone tires.[/QUOTE]
Good as dirt though, you can see the cracks and stresses in them. I'm surprised they are gonna keep them on there, along with the original fluids and such. At least I think I read that right. But I don't follow the logic of keeping parts that would need servicing, just to drive the car properly, kept on for auctioning, or any kind of sale. But, I guess the typical buyer might appreciate those things and hoard them anyway for memories and the fact that they were original.
Are CXRacing parts "reliable"? Seems pretty good for about $220 to get a brand new turbo. For low boost situations that is. Seems like a lot of people use it for their Vortec and LSx turbos.
[T]http://i.imgur.com/jfyQcNo.jpg[/t]
[T]http://i.imgur.com/ZVSICWi.jpg[/t]
Summer pictures with my grill cover off. Got the rear window lock on today, i like it.
It's that Norwegian constitution day again so I Norway'd the Merc
[t]http://puu.sh/oUT4f.jpg[/t]
Usually I use the Beetle on this day :(
Was cool and not raining today so I changed out my spark plugs and coils. God were they bad, so worn they had almost double the gap they were supposed to have. I couldnt get my socket on the back driver side plug because theres some debris or something down in the socket. I'll have to borrow a shop vac and clean it out. Runs waaaay better now though. Just need that filter I ordered to get here.
[QUOTE=NO ONE;50334049]
You guys might be interested in my friend's videos documenting his painstaking progress of trying to race prep a Honda CRX as a plan B for the start of the local hillclimb season.
Day 2 video up today:
[video=youtube;bXggQ90hBUQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bXggQ90hBUQ[/video]
He was [I]supposed to[/I] have his Datsun S30 ready, but a large hold up occurred from his cage fabricator. I don't know how he made things work smoothly before, since we're in NH and his fabricator is in VT (helps that the hillclimbs are in VT though). But basically, if my friend had left the cage work until later in the build, it might have worked out better with the schedule (supposedly). I don't even have the full story, but from what I can follow, it wasn't just the fabricator issue that was a hold up. But yeah, his plan B is this CRX, and even that is a crapshoot, but at the same time he just might manage. Even then, he most likely would only miss the first hillclimb of the season, but he is putting the pressure on himself to not start missing climbs.[/QUOTE]
Pretty sweet, great to see a east coast EF getting put back on the road doing something other than slowly becoming slammed and then scrapped when it's been fully used and ruined. You should tell him to window weld up the motor mounts if they're worn a hell, he has the time and still hasn't put the Z6 in. I've never seen a honda subframe crack but I know the EF subframes do at times.
I've heard supposedly that you a DA subframe which I would assume is stronger but what people don't say is that you will have to weld on it a little at least since you have to fill the "valley" where a power steering rack mounts most likely like putting a EG manual rack into a DC Integra. The DA subframe would also come with a better front swaybar and far better mounting styles for it. You can't use the tension rods or front crossmember from a DA though as the front end is longer.
If he goes for a traction bar setup to replace the probably equally rusty front crossmember and so it's easier to tune caster. Make sure he doesn't get one with heim joints on both sides because it will twist and they're junk.
[video=youtube;0E0akBrYlm4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0E0akBrYlm4[/video]
Damn that car was a total fucking piece, those aftermarket LCAs with the sick mad poly bushings are always hilarious. Poly is such a terrible material for LCA bushings.
[QUOTE=Lerlth;50335689]Are CXRacing parts "reliable"? Seems pretty good for about $220 to get a brand new turbo. For low boost situations that is. Seems like a lot of people use it for their Vortec and LSx turbos.[/QUOTE]
CXRacing is far more reputable than most chinese parts slingers. You still need to be careful as some of the stuff they sell is as bad as much of what you'd expect but they definitely sell some absolute gems of crazy cheap but good enough parts. Look to what people Sloppy Mechanics use and maybe even post in the facebook group asking for some suggestions on cheap turbos for something that isn't an LS.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/3ivmhjI.jpg[/t][t]http://i.imgur.com/bdepFh5.jpg[/t][t]http://i.imgur.com/J9Jg6d3.jpg[/t][t]http://i.imgur.com/mX83nnp.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/xZdGNLP.jpg[/t]
i
what
is that a hexa rotor six series?
It's a Bangle-butt version, too. Ew.
That's fuckin awesome and ridiculous
Holy shit.. that will sound amazing and rip like all getout too.
Saw this when driving to the beach today in Petaluma CA. [img]http://i.imgur.com/e7MnG9m.jpg[/img]
It sure gets hot in those things..
The rebuild kit for my gl1000 carbs is arriving today, I'm psyched.
I get a certain amount of satisfaction from cracking open a set of filty carbs and eviscerating the scum and varnish from its jets and circuits.
Why is it $500+for a generic one size fits all roof rack jesus christ this is why I want a pickup
Im having some problems. So i posted earlier about my radio stopping but i went to replace the fuse for it today and its still intact.
When i go to put a fuse in it sparks at me.
Man initially getting my 900 back from its transmission swap I was incredibly pleased with the work the shop did. Two months down the road though it started ticking like a bastard. I check the oil and it was nearly empty, took 2.5 quarts to get it to max. I took it back to them and they couldn't find anything incredibly wrong with it. It only recently started noticeably leaking, it didnt dump into the transmission and I don't believe it's consuming it. It's possible it's blowing by while I'm driving, which would explain why there's hardly any oil in my driveway. It's only been about 400 or so miles and half its oil is gone already.
Now I have two options, bring it back to the guys who did the swap who while they know the car now might screw something up, or bring it to someone new. If doing it myself was an option I absolutely would because then I'd know who or what to blame but something like this it just isn't. Thoughts?
[QUOTE=FordLord;50332495]Which direction is it blowing?
It should be blowing towards the engine.
Though, from how i picture it fromm your pist, it sounds like the opposite?[/QUOTE]
bit late of a reply but here's a pic
[t]http://i.imgur.com/BbYqggs.jpg[/t]
small fan has the orange sticker on top. not much room for fan in front of the turbo either!
I get my first paycheck at my new job this friday. Then I can start saving for a car. I miss driving.
I scanned my 9-3 with an OBD2 scanner without suspecting anything and i got a P0138, the internet says it has something to do with the O2 sensor for bank 1 sensor 2, some say it has to do with the catalyst or a leaking injector so i'm pretty confused. Anyone got an idea?
The check engine lights was not even on and i'm not feeling anything wierd with the car either.
I'm calling this the Frankencar now
[t]http://puu.sh/oXTCa.jpg[/t]
[t]http://puu.sh/oXTGi.jpg[/t]
Does a diesel take much fuel to start after it's warm? I was theorycrafting an idea for an auto start-stop system for semi trucks and buses.
[QUOTE=Trekintosh;50352221]Does a diesel take much fuel to start after it's warm? I was theorycrafting an idea for an auto start-stop system for semi trucks and buses.[/QUOTE]
I imagine they don't. My guess is they use even less fuel than petrol powered engines to start while they're already warm.
[QUOTE=Trekintosh;50352221]Does a diesel take much fuel to start after it's warm? I was theorycrafting an idea for an auto start-stop system for semi trucks and buses.[/QUOTE]
I know of a prototype system for large road-going vehicles that built the starter and alternator into the flywheel, and were meant to be further developed to be part of a efficient start-stop system
It used a 48 volt DC system though, so no-go with usual accessories.
[QUOTE=Ldesu;50352161]I'm calling this the Frankencar now[/QUOTE]
E30? What happened to the poor thing?
[QUOTE=Raygen;50352696]E30? What happened to the poor thing?[/QUOTE]
Yes
Major, [I]major[/I] rust repair for a customer
[QUOTE=Van-man;50352494]I know of a prototype system for large road-going vehicles that built the starter and alternator into the flywheel, and were meant to be further developed to be part of a efficient start-stop system
It used a 48 volt DC system though, so no-go with usual accessories.[/QUOTE]
The CUCV used a 24V setup, but the cab itself was 12v. Possibly the case there?
[QUOTE=Van-man;50352494]I know of a prototype system for large road-going vehicles that built the starter and alternator into the flywheel, and were meant to be further developed to be part of a efficient start-stop system
It used a 48 volt DC system though, so no-go with usual accessories.[/QUOTE]
I know older semis had a compressed air based starter and had a compressor built into the engine to run the air brakes, air adjustable seat, starter, ect. Seems like that could work, as long as the air tank didnt leak.
[QUOTE=FordLord;50352814]The CUCV used a 24V setup, but the cab itself was 12v. Possibly the case there?[/QUOTE]
That's just milspec shit.
I MET FRYBURGER TODAY!!!
Please excuse my inexcusable facial stubbery. I was not expecting to meet a celebrity today. He had the Crusher Camaro on a trailer with no more EFI. I was so excited I forgot to take a picture of the car.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/mDRKMXN.jpeg[/t]
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