Automotive Addicts Lounge V4 - Lube my pistons, baby - General

[QUOTE=Trekintosh;50353599]I MET FRYBURGER TODAY!!! Please excuse my inexcusable facial stubbery. I was not expecting to meet a celebrity today. He had the Crusher Camaro on a trailer with no more EFI. I was so excited I forgot to take a picture of the car. [t]http://i.imgur.com/mDRKMXN.jpeg[/t][/QUOTE] Congratulations man. Sometimes I dream about going hot rod power tour and meetinget Finnigan and Fryburger. What motor did the Camaro have? LS still? Blower?

Saw a gorgeous 4th gen Buick Skylark this morning on the drive to work. Tan or gray with black stripes with red edges on those stripes. Looked amazing, sounded great, just a guy cruising with his dog at 8am, caught in rush hour traffic.

[QUOTE=jazxsora;50348482]Man initially getting my 900 back from its transmission swap I was incredibly pleased with the work the shop did. Two months down the road though it started ticking like a bastard. I check the oil and it was nearly empty, took 2.5 quarts to get it to max. I took it back to them and they couldn't find anything incredibly wrong with it. It only recently started noticeably leaking, it didnt dump into the transmission and I don't believe it's consuming it. It's possible it's blowing by while I'm driving, which would explain why there's hardly any oil in my driveway. It's only been about 400 or so miles and half its oil is gone already. Now I have two options, bring it back to the guys who did the swap who while they know the car now might screw something up, or bring it to someone new. If doing it myself was an option I absolutely would because then I'd know who or what to blame but something like this it just isn't. Thoughts?[/QUOTE] Obviously, bring it to new people because your current guys are not leaving every stone unturned with this one. Unless there can be circumstances where they will without a doubt fix it, and not charge you additionally, or at least at the full rate. [video=youtube;TuGutyKGklI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TuGutyKGklI[/video] Looks like my hillclimb friend isn't going to make the first climb. This most recent video highlights some of the most painful setbacks and issues. Gotta give it to him for trying, and also being so stoic with his emotions.

Those video's he's making are really good. Hope he continues (and gets popular!) because he's cool shit :)

[QUOTE=DPKiller;50354886]Congratulations man. Sometimes I dream about going hot rod power tour and meetinget Finnigan and Fryburger. What motor did the Camaro have? LS still? Blower?[/QUOTE] I think it was the LS but it didn't have the Holley EFI on it any more, different intake. No blower or ram air, just open filters.

[QUOTE=Bucketboy;50351510]I scanned my 9-3 with an OBD2 scanner without suspecting anything and i got a P0138, the internet says it has something to do with the O2 sensor for bank 1 sensor 2, some say it has to do with the catalyst or a leaking injector so i'm pretty confused. Anyone got an idea? The check engine lights was not even on and i'm not feeling anything wierd with the car either.[/QUOTE] Bank 1 sensor 2 is the second O2 sensor, which sits behind your catalytic converter, and monitors if the converter is working as it should. You shouldn't notice a difference in performance, but you might have an issue getting it inspected.

Is any one savvy on turbos? I've talked to like, 3(?), Companies that sell turbos and asked them what size turbo I should get. I'm wanting a turbo that'd be good for daily driving and spirited driving. 3.8L OHV. Looking to make 250-300WHP. So far I've been suggested a GT30 and a GT35. Which I think is a 55mm and 61mm respectively. But those are turbos typically used in upgrades 4 cylinder applications. Any help would be good.

Isn't the smaller than usual turbo for making good bottom-end torque which is better for daily driving and occasional spirit? I believe that's what Serj was talking about some time ago on his Dart.

[QUOTE=Trekintosh;50359509]Isn't the smaller than usual turbo for making good bottom-end torque which is better for daily driving and occasional spirit? I believe that's what Serj was talking about some time ago on his Dart.[/QUOTE] Also a smaller turbo is faster to spool up than a larger, given they're both bolted to identical engines.

So my sister totaled our trusty Ford Freestyle a couple days ago. My dad and I have been searching around for a replacement vehicle in the $5000 range. Is there anything major to look out for on Volkswagen Jettas from the early 2000s? We've kinda narrowed things down to a '99 with 98k on the VR6, an '02 with 78k on the 2.0, and an '05 with 112k on the 2.5.

Got quotes from a couple of cheap turbo people. CXRacing: $250 for a GT3568 T4 On3: $390 for a GT3582 T3 VS Racing: $250 for a GT3582 T3

Went to see a stage of the portugal rally with some friends today. It was great, we spent 5 hours standing in the same spot, drinking beer and watching the rally. The classics division was a lot of fun to watch, the people driving the mk2 escorts were driving them harder than I was expecting them to, go to see a quattro, a delta integrale and a couple of datsuns. Then the WRC cars arrived straight from Ponte de Lima, you don't really get a sense of how much they have to throw the cars around until you see them live, the amount of work the suspension was doing was insane, and, despite it being a mix of cobble stone and tarmac they still threw the cars around like it was nothing. Neuville, Osberg and Meke were probably my favorites to watch. Got a snap of latvala's polo. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/66313298/kek/asdfgada/IMG_20160520_190736.jpg[/t] Wrc2 and R5 was a lot of fun to watch as well, some of those drivers were really giving it their all, but it was a really tight winding stage, a lot of drivers were driving very carefully. All in All it was fun watching fast cars and drinking with friends. oh yeah I also recorded some Wrc2 cars because what is rally without the sound. [vid]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/66313298/kek/asdfgada/VID_20160520_200443.mp4[/vid] [URL="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/66313298/kek/asdfgada/VID_20160520_195240.mp4"]extra[/URL] [URL="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/66313298/kek/asdfgada/VID_20160520_195440.mp4"]videos[/URL]

^Almost makes me want to renew my WRC sub. I gave it a try earlier this year for Rally Sweden. I wasn't wholly disappointed, but I did keep feeling shortchanged with their limited coverage, and seemingly no way to watch the lower tier classes (WRC2, 3, etc). Was probably one of the worst years for Sweden too, with all the warm weather and all. Watched a little Monte Carlo and very little Mexico. Felt I should've just saved my money for WEC sub, and maybe MotoGP when there is a sale or enough races go by that they won't charge so much. [video=youtube;U8EiLlOG0rI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U8EiLlOG0rI&feature=youtu.be[/video] So confirmation of the CRX not making it to Ascutney :( He still will reach his goal of [I]racing for the weekend[/I], in that he will be borring this beaut: [IMG]http://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13230103_1589587934704083_6338793662340475169_n.jp g?oh=1ba58e1188d5dafa4a82d15efc103e12&oe=57E10DAD[/IMG]

Quick question. Do tire treadware warrenties cover premature cracking/dry rot? The tires on my Impreza are all from early 2013 (verified by sidewall dates), which is when I bought them. Car has not sat around much at all. Have not used any 'ultra tire shine' products that could have dried the tread out. [T]http://i.imgur.com/VBF1bOe.jpg[/t] The sidewalls have no cracking, all four are this way. It makes me feel uneasy for sure. They are Douglas Xtra Trac II's. Other than the cracking, i notice no handling, braking, or noise differences.

I wouldn't worry about it, if you know the manufacture date is good I'd think that most of the reason cracking tires are dangerous is because the banding inside would rust out or become compromised from contaminates. If you still have them 3-4 years down the road absolutely replace them by then but if you run them out in the next year contemplate replacing them at the wear bars.

[QUOTE=Lerlth;50359376]. 3.8L OHV. Looking to make 250-300WHP. So far I've been suggested a GT30 and a GT35. Which I think is a 55mm and 61mm respectively. But those are turbos typically used in upgrades 4 cylinder applications. Any help would be good.[/QUOTE] On a 3.8, either of those is going to get on boost quickly (particularly with the ball bearing hubs). Either should also have no problem getting you the output you want. Shit, my buddy has a GT28 Miata that was making ~240 to the wheels. [editline]20th May 2016[/editline] [QUOTE=cardfan212;50359586] Is there anything major to look out for on Volkswagen Jettas from the early 2000s? We've kinda narrowed things down to a '99 with 98k on the VR6, an '02 with 78k on the 2.0, and an '05 with 112k on the 2.5.[/QUOTE] You should look out for them being massive piles of shit. Go the VR6 if you must. The 1.8T, though vaunted by people, is garbage if the previous owner didn't maintain it.The turbo will also be gone. 2.5 is just meh all around and the VR6 sounds awesome.

[QUOTE=CptVague;50362108]On a 3.8, either of those is going to get on boost quickly (particularly with the ball bearing hubs). Either should also have no problem getting you the output you want. Shit, my buddy has a GT28 Miata that was making ~240 to the wheels. [/QUOTE] Sweet. I'm just going to have to tune it well. It's only got cast pistons, but I'm not too worried since a lot of what Sloppy mechanics does involves cast parts. Low boost and high flow. What sucks is that the rest of the setup will be more expensive then the turbo. FMI, BOV, piping, ECU, injectors, and whatever else.

[QUOTE=Lerlth;50362225]Sweet. I'm just going to have to tune it well. It's only got cast pistons, but I'm not too worried since a lot of what Sloppy mechanics does involves cast parts. Low boost and high flow. What sucks is that the rest of the setup will be more expensive then the turbo. FMI, BOV, piping, ECU, injectors, and whatever else.[/QUOTE] The only real problem with cast/stock pistons is that you're often going to destroy the ringlands the second you start hitting some detonation at a higher power level. Provided it gets tuned and tuned well most higher quality cast pistons will live a perfectly happy life provided you're not stretching the limits of your fuel or well far beyond your motor.

[QUOTE=slayer3032;50361962]I wouldn't worry about it, if you know the manufacture date is good I'd think that most of the reason cracking tires are dangerous is because the banding inside would rust out or become compromised from contaminates. If you still have them 3-4 years down the road absolutely replace them by then but if you run them out in the next year contemplate replacing them at the wear bars.[/QUOTE] I generally run 10k miles per year per vehicle, this car was getting 15k a year when it was my one vehicle. Due to this, I've never had a tire all that long and have never had a cracked tire issue. With how they are lasting, I will likely get 2 more years out of them. I replace well before the wear bars and resell them, if possible.

[QUOTE=FordLord;50362949]I generally run 10k miles per year per vehicle, this car was getting 15k a year when it was my one vehicle. Due to this, I've never had a tire all that long and have never had a cracked tire issue. With how they are lasting, I will likely get 2 more years out of them. I replace well before the wear bars and resell them, if possible.[/QUOTE] You should really be fine then, I probably wouldn't buy the same tires again though.

[QUOTE=slayer3032;50362966]You should really be fine then, I probably wouldn't buy the same tires again though.[/QUOTE] Other than cracking; they've handled better, gripped better, lasted better tread wise, than any tire I have had. For being an all season; they do better in the snow and ice than the dedicated snow tires i had, yet handle the street better thsn any street tire I've had. Unless I find a better tire I'd honestly take the chance again to get that superior performance they've given me.

[QUOTE=FordLord;50361626]Quick question. Do tire treadware warrenties cover premature cracking/dry rot? The tires on my Impreza are all from early 2013 (verified by sidewall dates), which is when I bought them. Car has not sat around much at all. Have not used any 'ultra tire shine' products that could have dried the tread out. [T]http://i.imgur.com/VBF1bOe.jpg[/T] The sidewalls have no cracking, all four are this way. It makes me feel uneasy for sure. They are Douglas Xtra Trac II's. Other than the cracking, i notice no handling, braking, or noise differences.[/QUOTE] Have they been sitting on dirt when the car's been parked? Because that can cause premature tread "rot"

I just got my first paycheck, which was small. I am so impatient to get a car. I miss driving. [editline]21st May 2016[/editline] i need atleast 2500 for anything worthwhile here

Can anybody recommend a decent dual action polisher? Sick of doing my wrist when applying polish to get rid of swirls created by the previous owner and don't want to shell out to get it wet sanded [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/teYeZbI.jpg?1[/IMG]

[QUOTE=Van-man;50363422]Have they been sitting on dirt when the car's been parked? Because that can cause premature tread "rot"[/QUOTE] Our driveway is made of 'crush and run', basically crushed rocks and rock dust. Our previous house was the same thing, so it has been parked on crush and run since I've had these tires. Possibly the same idea? I hadn't heard of it before, but i could see how it could happen.

[QUOTE=Trekintosh;50359509]Isn't the smaller than usual turbo for making good bottom-end torque which is better for daily driving and occasional spirit? I believe that's what Serj was talking about some time ago on his Dart.[/QUOTE] Yup. A smaller turbo will spool faster so you can make boost at lower RPMS, instead of mashing the gas to get boost. [editline]21st May 2016[/editline] [QUOTE=Lerlth;50362225]Sweet. I'm just going to have to tune it well. It's only got cast pistons, but I'm not too worried since a lot of what Sloppy mechanics does involves cast parts. Low boost and high flow. What sucks is that the rest of the setup will be more expensive then the turbo. FMI, BOV, piping, ECU, injectors, and whatever else.[/QUOTE] The turbo itself is the cheapest part of the build. What you are not factoring in are fittings, couplers, and T-strap clamps. ALl those will quickly add up.

[QUOTE=FordLord;50365625]Our driveway is made of 'crush and run', basically crushed rocks and rock dust. Our previous house was the same thing, so it has been parked on crush and run since I've had these tires. Possibly the same idea? I hadn't heard of it before, but i could see how it could happen.[/QUOTE] Most likely, I just know that tire manufacturers generally stress that their warranties technically are only valid when the car more or less is only used on pavement of some sort.

All this talk of expensive turbo setups, ECU tuning, etc. Makes me glad that my 6.2 is simple to turbo. I plan to, someday, do a simple turbo swap from the 6.5 with minor upgrades. It'll be a mild boost setup, with high reliability. Maybe 50-75hp/100-150tq gains for around $300-500. I'd do a single, probably 5" stack on one side as a throw back to classic 2-stroke Detroits. [editline]21st May 2016[/editline] [QUOTE=Van-man;50366608]Most likely, I just know that tire manufacturers generally stress that their warranties technically are only valid when the car more or less is only used on pavement of some sort.[/QUOTE] Probably 90% of the driving is pavement, parking is 99% rock. If i can get ahold of the manufacturer, I'll see what's up with the warrenty. It's not too bad right now, but i planned on running these tires a good bit longer before selling them

[QUOTE=Serj22;50365662]Yup. A smaller turbo will spool faster so you can make boost at lower RPMS, instead of mashing the gas to get boost. [editline]21st May 2016[/editline] The turbo itself is the cheapest part of the build. What you are not factoring in are fittings, couplers, and T-strap clamps. ALl those will quickly add up.[/QUOTE] That's why I'm going supercharged first. Kind of get getting a similar setup, get an ecu working, and then later down the line swap to a turbo and build up from there.

when you finally manage to squeeze a gauge into your dash after a week of making the gauge-hole ever so slightly bigger, but the re-skinned vinyl gets slightly caught and peels back just that small amount as it goes in and it's totes BS. :cry: It's still pretty good progress I reckon. I couldn't even fit a gauge in before lol.