Automotive Addicts Lounge V4 - Lube my pistons, baby - General

Patience and saliva goes a [I]long[/I] way.

[QUOTE=Lerlth;50367500]That's why I'm going supercharged first. Kind of get getting a similar setup, get an ecu working, and then later down the line swap to a turbo and build up from there.[/QUOTE] It's the same amount of work minus the exhaust. You'll still have to manage the fuel through the ecu, and modify the plugs to a colder one, o-ring the block (rent a kit) and mount the centrifugal charger or roots blower. I wouldn't upgrade from one to the other, I'd just shoot for one and go there.

[QUOTE=Serj22;50368531]It's the same amount of work minus the exhaust. You'll still have to manage the fuel through the ecu, and modify the plugs to a colder one, o-ring the block (rent a kit) and mount the centrifugal charger or roots blower. I wouldn't upgrade from one to the other, I'd just shoot for one and go there.[/QUOTE] This is the truth. The setups and tune are pretty dissimilar.

Yeah, I meant more like the general concept can be applied. I may not be upgrading it from the supercharger to a turbo, as there's another configuration of the engine I could build for super cheap that would better support a turbo. But all of the learning would be out of the way. Building the ECU, learning to tune it, and settings things up. The initial setup for a supercharger seems to be cheaper than the turbo. I already have an Eaton M90, which cuts down on the price for the setup to begin with. The turbo seems like it would involve more work. But we'll see. I may just go straight to turbo and do that. I'll be doing a slow transition from stock ECU N/A, to MegaSquirt N/A, to then other mods, to then forced induction.

Haven't posted here in months. Teaching my roommate how to drive in my car. Might be his some day [img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/7dxexmw.jpg[/img_thumb][img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/ctVVtHH.jpg[/img_thumb] yes i know it's a shitty walmart bike

[QUOTE=Lerlth;50368600]Yeah, I meant more like the general concept can be applied. I may not be upgrading it from the supercharger to a turbo, as there's another configuration of the engine I could build for super cheap that would better support a turbo. But all of the learning would be out of the way. Building the ECU, learning to tune it, and settings things up. The initial setup for a supercharger seems to be cheaper than the turbo. I already have an Eaton M90, which cuts down on the price for the setup to begin with. The turbo seems like it would involve more work. But we'll see. I may just go straight to turbo and do that. I'll be doing a slow transition from stock ECU N/A, to MegaSquirt N/A, to then other mods, to then forced induction.[/QUOTE] Without a carburetor your going to have a difficult problem to solve in how you get the Eaton roots blower to feed into the intake of the motor/ how to mount it and drive it, etc. Youd need a pulley on the crank as well.

[QUOTE=Xanadu;50368626]Haven't posted here in months. Teaching my roommate how to drive in my car. Might be his some day [img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/ctVVtHH.jpg[/img_thumb] yes i know it's a shitty walmart bike[/QUOTE] Instantly reminded me of... [t]http://media.tumblr.com/tumblr_loiak3ot0g1qfwbmq.jpg[/t]

[QUOTE=Serj22;50368742]Without a carburetor your going to have a difficult problem to solve in how you get the Eaton roots blower to feed into the intake of the motor/ how to mount it and drive it, etc. Youd need a pulley on the crank as well.[/QUOTE] O.o Carburetor? What...? All I have to do is is make a plate and weld a pipe outlet onto it then run piping to the intake for a GM Eaton. And literally just a a pipe for a Ford M90. Then fabricate a mount and put a bigger Serpentine belt on. Or use the same size one with an AC delete. I'm using an M90, not a 6-71. That's old school stuff.

a part of my rad return tube got corroded and clogged my radiator, did some rough sketching of what i'm gonna do with it. [img]http://i.imgur.com/RulohoE.jpg[/img] gonna cut off the corroded part, attach a larger diameter hose, make an extension using a stainless steel tube (green) and then attach the radiator return hose to it. got the radiator cleaned and flushed the cooling system already, a lot of rust and gunk went out. [editline]22nd May 2016[/editline] [img]http://i.imgur.com/DzSq4Sn.png[/img]

So recently I got one of those cheap chineese ELM 327 bluetooth obd2 scanners and while it worked perfectly fine on my civic it made my dad's diesel renault go batshit insane, the engine failed to idle and all the warning lights for various electrical system failiures started lighting up. Thankfully it all went away after the scanner got unplugged but it was spooky as all hell. Anyone had something similiar happen? It can't really be a faulty unit since it works as intended on the civic. I just can't seem to find any info on stuff like this happening except for straight up defective scanners.

Corroded? It seriously might be easier to takeep that part off put in a tub of drain-o or just work on it with a little wire brush. Corrosion should never not come back unless your engine block is fubar. At which point I would suggest if iron block unhooking the radiator,heater core,and anything else and inserting drain on. Trust me. It works. Took my rusted and lime scaled block that would turn new coolant into mud within a second to coolant that is perfectly green after a year now. [editline]22nd May 2016[/editline] [QUOTE=Karolk;50372458]So recently I got one of those cheap chineese ELM 327 bluetooth obd2 scanners and while it worked perfectly fine on my civic it made my dad's diesel renault go batshit insane, the engine failed to idle and all the warning lights for various electrical system failiures started lighting up. Thankfully it all went away after the scanner got unplugged but it was spooky as all hell. Anyone had something similiar happen? It can't really be a faulty unit since it works as intended on the civic. I just can't seem to find any info on stuff like this happening except for straight up defective scanners.[/QUOTE] Ecu probably went into limp mode. Try plugging it into the car off then turning the car on then cranking it? If that doesn't work then I'd just say fuck it this Renault is stupid.

[QUOTE=DPKiller;50372483]Corroded? It seriously might be easier to takeep that part off put in a tub of drain-o or just work on it with a little wire brush. Corrosion should never not come back unless your engine block is fubar. At which point I would suggest if iron block unhooking the radiator,heater core,and anything else and inserting drain on. Trust me. It works. Took my rusted and lime scaled block that would turn new coolant into mud within a second to coolant that is perfectly green after a year now.[/QUOTE] It's a 1995 Suzuki Swift which was probably cooled with tap water for most of it's life. It's not just a bit corroded, it is completely rusted and cracked. I'll post a video about it soon

made the trip down to portland from tacoma to go to the IPD garage sale yesterday picked up some 262c Bertone door cards, and got a rear seat to go with it, now I just need to find some reasonably priced front seats. I think the heat death of the universe might happen before then though. [t]http://i.imgur.com/3bXAyvi.jpg[/t] some day...

[url]http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/5599428935.html[/url] Oh. Oh no. For when you want a G-class, but samurai is life.

[QUOTE=Lerlth;50360910]Got quotes from a couple of cheap turbo people. CXRacing: $250 for a GT3568 T4 On3: $390 for a GT3582 T3 VS Racing: $250 for a GT3582 T3[/QUOTE] You'll want the Garrett T3. Just make sure it's not a cheap rebuild and there's no shaft play. [editline]23rd May 2016[/editline] [QUOTE=Lerlth;50370560]O.o Carburetor? What...? All I have to do is is make a plate and weld a pipe outlet onto it then run piping to the intake for a GM Eaton. And literally just a a pipe for a Ford M90. Then fabricate a mount and put a bigger Serpentine belt on. Or use the same size one with an AC delete. I'm using an M90, not a 6-71. That's old school stuff.[/QUOTE] Lol... old school stuff. Superchargers themself are "old school" stuff. Pre WWII. But I get what you're saying. The plate has to go somewhere is what I mean. That'll be a lil tricky. With a carburetor you just bolt a carb to the top of it and that's that.

Something for the spank bank: [url]http://imgur.com/a/gULFV[/url]

Had the car at the Van Dusen gardens yesterday, had a grand old time [T]https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7674/27089932712_701a21ab1c_o.jpg[/T] [T]https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7480/27185186935_97574822a1_o.jpg[/T] [T]https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7471/27151942066_048594f026_o.jpg[/T] [T]https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7096/27151950496_62bb0a7bda_o.jpg[/T] There was some cool stuff here, endless hordes of MGB's, Midgits, bugeye sprites and such aside [T]https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7256/26580493293_367d552622_o.jpg[/T] [T]https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7674/27151995096_65264630e0_o.jpg[/T] [T]https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7541/26579287184_d88243f2f1_o.jpg[/T] [T]https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7371/27089919522_a7ce0e3989_o.jpg[/T] [T]https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7594/27089922702_d4b1f38651_o.jpg[/T] [T]https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7577/27151958316_fb0b3a251c_o.jpg[/T] [T]https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7594/27116615821_b93a9f330c_o.jpg[/T] [T]https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7235/27185216565_c448fb1550_o.jpg[/T] That boattail Alvis won best overall, rather deservedly. But you know what caught me offguard? [T]https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7170/26910596500_6018dcc8fc_o.jpg[/T] The fucking [URL="https://youtu.be/9JIq_iQdv5w?t=30"]LeMons Wolesely[/URL] Hornet was there. Last thing in the world i expected to see Talked to the guys too, they're all really cool. Tempted to get a hoopty XJ6 for Lemons sometime

Went to the local rallycross with some other newbies over the weekend in our completely unprepared cars [t]http://imgkk.com/i/--en.jpg[/t] Why did nobody tell me about rallyx before, it is AWESOME

Last time I ever drive my Miata long distance. On my way back from Chicago yesterday, on a very hot day, car overheated and blew the radiator. (Completely my fault btw) But now it's stuck 200mi away. Just ordered my replacement radiator, should be here tomorrow and then I'll be driving out there and swapping it out where it sits.

My Miata wound up driving down lots of dirt roads over the weekend. It was a blast! [img]http://i.imgur.com/zfYOCGdh.jpg[/img]

My first car is almost done. The paintjob isn't perfect, but I'm just glad it didn't cost me thousands. [IMG]http://a.nigger.cat/dyjuye.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://a.nigger.cat/jfdusg.jpg[/IMG]

What make and model is that? the logo looks familiar, but I cannot place it.

It's a 1978 Opel Kadett.

[QUOTE=fishyfish777;50376313]Went to the local rallycross with some other newbies over the weekend in our completely unprepared cars [t]http://imgkk.com/i/--en.jpg[/t] Why did nobody tell me about rallyx before, it is AWESOME[/QUOTE] Rallyx = nothing compared to real rally. The average rallyx run is only 30-45 seconds. Rally runs, anywhere from 20-200 miles, chaining together to last all day long.

Autox is nothing like real racing

[QUOTE=cardfan212;50359586]So my sister totaled our trusty Ford Freestyle a couple days ago. My dad and I have been searching around for a replacement vehicle in the $5000 range. Is there anything major to look out for on Volkswagen Jettas from the early 2000s? We've kinda narrowed things down to a '99 with 98k on the VR6, an '02 with 78k on the 2.0, and an '05 with 112k on the 2.5.[/QUOTE] I have a 2000 VR6 that my mom bought brand new in 2000, gave it to me when I turned 16 and she got her dream car TT. Things that may break or already be broken: -powered door locks died on all doors except the drivers thankfully -there is a coilpack which, over time gets cracks in it and moisture gets in there when it rains and the car throws all sorts of errors at you. -Be sure to buy a supply of little 10 amp fuses and keep them in the car, mine randomly blows a 10 amp fuse and many things stop working. Sunroof, car key (buttons to lock, unlock, open trunk), trunk won't pop open, windows don't roll down. Thankfully its a very quick and easy fix once you figure out which fuse broke -You'll also have to deal with all the little trim pieces coming off at some point, some good glue and they go right back on -Finally, the A/C in mine is nearly next to useless, heat and heated seats still work marvelously. Not that the A/C was all that great in the car to start.. Other than that, I can't think of anything wrong that isn't routine maintenance or damage my mom did to the car before I got it. VR6 is a lovely little engine, very peppy, makes it a good and fun little car. If you want to wait a year I might be able to sell it to you, I plan on using some money I saved from not having to pay for school to get myself an Audi of sorts. It hasn't even reached 90K miles yet lol Good luck to ya!

[QUOTE=fishyfish777;50376313]Went to the local rallycross with some other newbies over the weekend in our completely unprepared cars [t]http://imgkk.com/i/--en.jpg[/t] Why did nobody tell me about rallyx before, it is AWESOME[/QUOTE] :v: Seeing a Fit on terrain like that reminds me of a few remote garages I occasionally deliver to for work - in a Fit. Thing has definitely seen some abuse. Same with the Nissan Versa I had to drive before. In fact, during that time, there were more dirty/non-asphalt places I delivered to.

Your A/C Sucks? Really? The A/C in my C5 Audi would make frost on the vents and when you put the heater on it would melt the vents..... Efan to blame? Low charge?

[QUOTE=DPKiller;50378324]Your A/C Sucks? Really? The A/C in my C5 Audi would make frost on the vents and when you put the heater on it would melt the vents..... Efan to blame? Low charge?[/QUOTE] It could honestly be either. We recharged it in August of last year..then since I go to school in PA, I didn't really use the A/C at all. Only noticed it at the end of the year. Since I don't use it much, and we will probably only have the car for another year, I'll probably just recharge it again at the beginning of the year. Its getting stuff done when school starts again in August because it sits in storage for 3 months of the year. If I went to school back home in Texas, I'd fix it in a heartbeat because I don't want to cook all year long, but in PA its not really worth it. I know Audi and VW were much more similar in the early 2000s, but your Audi probably had better A/C. The S5 I plan on getting in about a year here won't have these kinds of issues lol.

[QUOTE=antiChrist;50370606]a part of my rad return tube got corroded and clogged my radiator, did some rough sketching of what i'm gonna do with it. [img]http://i.imgur.com/RulohoE.jpg[/img] gonna cut off the corroded part, attach a larger diameter hose, make an extension using a stainless steel tube (green) and then attach the radiator return hose to it. got the radiator cleaned and flushed the cooling system already, a lot of rust and gunk went out. [editline]22nd May 2016[/editline] [img]http://i.imgur.com/DzSq4Sn.png[/img][/QUOTE] Yeah so that "solution" is something I won't be doing. I took the metal pipe off the car and it's completely crumbling. While at it I also checked the water pump, which apparently was changed probably a year ago. The housing is made out of aluminium so it is in a good condition. I ordered a new metal pipe from Japan, gonna be expecting it within a week. also, does anyone know a good online source for old Japanese car parts? All which I found were either sketchy ebay sellers, or selling parts completely overpriced (ebay sells the pipe I need for 60 USD, while ordering a genuine one from Japan cost me 30 USD with free shipping- though the parts variety is limited).