Automotive Addicts V8 Pt. 2 - Real Motors have 8 cylinders and Pushrods Edt. - General

Burnout Paradise is an absolute masterpiece, I don't think it can ever be topped.

If you don't have Automation already you should get it and start making your own cars for Beam, it's a lot of fun. My favorites are Gran Turismo 2 and 4 but most of my hours are in Forza Horizon 3 these last few years. It's the closest thing to GT4 in that you can turn any shitbox into a racecar. Also you can engine and drivetrain swap pretty much anything for added fun and fuckery. But as for other good car games that I've played, GT1-4, Burnout (any), FM3/4, ATS, AC, MSC, LFS, NFSU2 and MW, Trackmania, Dirt series, and all sorts of crap I can't think of. btw we have a racing games thread be there or be square

I always liked cars, but Most Wanted is what got me genuinely interested in them, probably. Played the ass off of forza 2/3, I play 7 on PC since there aren't any other good non-supercar focused racomg games on it

I'm still looking for a game that has either a bmw e12 or e9 in it

https://gamegator.net/thumbnails/WRECK-PC-big.jpg motherfucking WRECKFEST

did they pull this game from it's grave? I bought it like 5 years ago and remember it not advancing at all for the majority of that time.

There have been a lot of updates but it still runs worse than beamng for me, even compared to beamng with a lot of cars running around.

Oh im very familiar with automation. I contributed to their crowdfunding almost a year ago. The fact that I can make cars in automation, then put them in beam.ng is an absolutely incredible feat of engineering, and not to mention they work really well.

I just want them to fix the aero issues and it'll be perfect, still an 8/10 for me as it stands. Apparently Beam sims aerodynamics (which allowed for airplane mods) and the way the exported cars come out, the whole underside is a huge open air dam which creates rear end lift and high speed oversteer where downforce should keep you planted. The stock beam cars drive better at any speed where downforce is in play, but for low-medium speed racing/autoX type stuff Automation cars really work well and as intended. Offroad is weird, cause if you choose the offroad tires for your exported car it's like driving on ice, the medium/sport compounds are better in Beam's dirt no matter what the Automation game scores say.

Wreckfest is great, ran great on my R9 280. I didn't play it when it was "Next Car Game" and Early Access but now it's pretty much the only racing game I bother to play since it's fine with just a controller and doesn't require much investment of time. The servers seem to be the worst part, most of the servers seem to run awful so if you don't have a strong CPU or something with enough threads it will probably chug in singleplayer.

It runs seriously good on my R9-270x and my A10-5700k, even with high settings and tons of cars. I love wreckfest so much.

Forgive me Araknid for I have sinned (and have $1300 less in my wallet). Turns out the dude is a part-time Manager of a local Saab shop and this was his sister's daily. No service records but for the price I figured it was worth the crapshoot. Taking it to resmog tomorrow since it didn't log enough miles on it when I bought it last week. Passed back in February so should be ok. The smog shop knows the previous owner too so if anything can work something out on failure. https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/245015/2425bda8-38cc-43cd-8915-633c05faa3a4/41754847_10212603842837434_4263961373039394816_o.jpg

https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/228931/f1def09f-ee64-4a51-9f9b-d92cd4e5b7cd/IMG_1546.JPG https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/228931/80d419a4-d79b-4086-b436-ad5de884f63b/IMG_1548.JPG LADS. LONGTUBES. THE DREAM IS REAL

the mileage is high, but she's really tidy inside and out, regularly serviced, cambelt done at 297xxx, all the fluids are good and fresh. throughout bearing is noisey but honestly thats the worst mechanical thing. and yes, its a eunos roadster imported from japan, which I don't really care about. it looks, drives and runs really well which is amazing. and I don't really like mazdas at all.

bah I never said they were bad cars May it serve you well

We are about t-minus 8 drilled holes away from sketchy having it's motor in and done. Boy howdy drilling shit in the rain sucks.

Hope you guys won't mind my asking a bike related question in this thread. Figure exhaust is exhaust, for the most part.. and mine's far too loud. Setup is twin pipes/twin mufflers, 10" long/2.5" wide baffle, made of 80% open mesh and wrapped in fiberglass mat. I'm not entirely surprised this is too loud, but rather than buy a new set of slip ons I want to fuck with these things some more. Is it feasible that splitting each baffle in two and putting a disc of perforated steel between the two lengths would quiet it down to tolerable levels? I figure that's more or less how the stock muffling system works, minus the flow reversal. Might throw in dB killers while I'm at it

free coolant

still managed to kill one, possibly two colbalt bits with an application of Rapid Tap every 30 seconds or less. Not sure the rain is helping.

Motorcycle, too loud? No compute. More sound = More fast.

Living in an inspection state is great. Jokes aside, I really don't like super loud bikes anyways so I might as well

I said it before and i'll say it again. If i didn't have bad luck i'd have no luck. She's just a harmless orb spider but you have a WHOLE GARDEN AND FOREST, WHY MY BIKE. https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/111032/6d110398-4863-42f6-b111-841ec4ccfbd1/42194238_2364323286927547_2652838858781097984_n.jpg

just pinch top of Web and relocate spiders are good friends and eliminate gay bugs

yeah, but she's really jumpy for some reason. Every time i get close to her web with a pole she kind of freaks out and starts jumping around and the last thing i need is a 6 inch orb spider on me. I'll wait till she's more calm. It's a rainy day anyway so she can chill.

So I have a couple questions on things I've always wondered about. One, timing belts. I see everywhere that you need to lock your cams in place, and make sure they don't move. However is there anything stopping me from simply, re aligning the marks, and putting piston 1 at top dead, and just throwing the belt on? Shouldn't that be perfectly timed? (Obviously only really works on engines with spark plugs directly on top, but luckly on the BP they are.) Two, piston/lifter/valve/bolt order. By this I mean, removing parts, labeling and making sure they go back exactly where they came out of. Why is this important? Especially for things like bolts, and lifters.

speak softly (to the spider), and carry a big stick (to use to relocate the little shit)

Unless you have an extremely high compression engine, rotating the engine around with any gear a tooth or two off isn't going to hurt anything. Some engines can be really difficult to time because of the valve springs but usually the manufacturer will put in a hole where you can shove a allen key or something and lock the cam. The usual procedure is to attempt to time it, rotate it around a couple times in the correct rotating direction and see if it it's right, do the tensioner and give it a few more and check again.

https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/228931/26dde5dd-3b22-462c-a3d9-ef1f92a16a2f/IMG_1559.JPG https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/228931/27e5e6b6-c192-4559-b8d0-79b7835aa4a4/IMG_1558.JPG Babby's first engine swap is done, Sketchy's got a soul again. In the spirit of fairness, i set it to hard mode, and did it while sick and during a fucking rainstorm, because i'm a dumbass and rented the hoist without checking the weather forecast. Engine sits lower than the mockup, so i gotta notch the flathead mount to clear the oil filter, but other than that it fits like a glove

one old trick is putting a couple large wingnuts in the exhaust pipe before the muffler. you can also hit up ebay and get the most restrictive looking exhaust baffle you can find. if you just need to pass inspection, wrap a t-shirt around your airbox. it'll run like shit, but it'll be quieter. less air coming in means less air going out, less air going out means less noise going out

The idea behind putting everything back in original order on worn internals is that you could introduce extra wear on all the mixed-up surfaces because of small differences in wear between all the bits. If you were putting all new shit in you could do it in any order I'd think.