Automotive Addicts V8 Pt. 2 - Real Motors have 8 cylinders and Pushrods Edt. - General

so uh, my uh coolant just exploded. I had my car idling in my driveway with the hood open because I was tightening my wiper blades (they skipped a lot and I hate that). And then my coolant just exploded out through the top left of my radiator all over my engine. I turned the car off immediately. what the fuck happened? I hadn't noticed any abnormal temperature readings. I heard no unusual noises. I had a "service" light on but that isn't the check engine light. I hadn't even touched that area since my radiator was replaced like 6+ months ago. I found a plastic plug that seemed to fit in the hole where it all sprayed out. I'm guessing too much pressure somehow? Why would they make the vent vent all over my fucking engine? At least this was in my driveway with my hood open and not at fucking 4:45AM when I go to work. 1996 Volvo 960.

sounds like you have a clogged heater core or coolant line somewhere and probably a bad coolant reservoir cap, causing the system to pressurize too much. The cap is supposed to vent pressure above a certain threshold by design and most of them fail stuck open but some fail stuck closed. best case the rad is a cheap POS and the failure was its own. buy OEM

My mechanic is one of those napa only guys, they usually have good warranties right? I have also heard of heater cores in my model being prone to failure. Regardless I'll head to the mechanic monday after I get off work. Luckily I can mooch off my sisters car.

Hey y'all, I'm saving up for a used Craigslist car and trying to figure out what's best. I'm a college student who's really just gonna be using this car to get around and have access to a wider area. I've been thinking a mid-2000's Toyota Corolla, Camry, Avalon or Honda Civic. I've always driven Toyotas and I know their engines are reliable, and I've heard the same about Hondas. Anybody have any suggestions or things to look out for?

That's just a really unusual failure. I wouldn't trust a new one from them, cause youll probably have to replace it again in the not so distant future. Assuming something else wasn't the cause.

i got super extremely fucking hammered at a bar last night with my buddies, i couldn't drive home so I passed the fuck out in my suburban, in the bar parking lot. I've literally never had a more relaxing sleep.

I can talk about Civics D-Series engines on civics up to 05 may sometimes get warped heads. this breaks the head gasket and maybe coolant or oil will leak into the cylinder. If you are looking at an 06-09 civic (This does not apply to the Si model), make sure the previous owner had their engine replaced by Honda as many civics of those years had a defective engine block that developed a crack. Also highly recommend the manual transmission on all Hondas. I have never had a problem with the autos but I hear they can be fragile.

Careful, the police can still fuck you over for doing that.

I was worried about that but by that time I was so hammered i couldn't operate my phone, and I couldn't find my friends.

if you're looking for another Corolla, I would advise keeping an eye out for oil consumption. The standard 1ZZ-FE engine that Toyota used from 1998 to 2008 has a problem with blowby in the crankcase if the engine has been abused. It's nothing too dire, you just need to top off the oil every few weeks or so. Also, avoid the VE trim level like the plague. Toyota only ran it from 1998 to 2001, and for good reason: the three-speed automatic has no overdrive, which means highway travel is a bitch. Even worse, the engine has to take up the slack, which puts Toyota's legendary engines to the test in the worst way possible.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lvr5quwTcog New Mazda 3 reveal next month. The rear looks a lot like the Mazda Kai concept they showed off before. http://www2.mazda.com/en/next-generation/prodcut-concept/images/gallery/gallery_01.jpg

Later single cams used MLS gaskets, that was really more of a D15 thing to blow headgaskets if you overheated them. EF's used composite gaskets, it carried over into the D15B7 too but the D16Z6 and D16Y8's both use MLS. I assume the D16Y7 does as well but people love to neglect those poor engines. If you do buy a 96+ D series, do not let the oil get low. If you starve it of oil, it will toast the bearings and wreck the crank. The oiling is adequate but Honda cheaped out on the crank a little and if you run it low of oil and it starves, you're gonna kill it like 110%. All of Honda's cranks are forged and nitride coated so if you run them low on oil and hurt a bearing at all you're looking for a new crank anyways. Just keep oil in it, none of this is really much of a concern. EM2's and ES2's aren't particularly the most engaging to drive, they ditched the double wishbone and went full cheap with the suspension like everyone else. They're definitely good commuter cars, but they're no EF/EG/EK. The EP3(01-05 Civic Si) is a little under rated, while the K20 in it is the literal worst spec K series engine ever, and in a base 2007 RSX is slower than a 1990 Integra which is the 18 year prior base model of the same car. It's going to be reliable, good on gas, quirky and fun to drive while having the utility of a hatch. As far as the R18's cracking. If they were going to crack, they already did. If it has over 100k on it, there's literally like zero chance of it happening and most of them cracked under warranty anyways AFAIK. I might be skeptical of a 06 with like 15k miles on it but if it has at least 60k you'll be fine. 8th gens are okay, my family has had a few. I still find it really silly that a 1000lbs heavier, 20 year newer car won't fit 4 adults comfortably but my 90' Civic hatch other than being a 2 door has a massive amount of room on the inside while I can't comfortably fit in the back of a 8th gen coupe. Then again, I don't fit in the back of my Integra since my head goes above the headliner against the rear hatch glass. So that doesn't really mean much, I'm just not a fan of most newer cars. Hondas tend to hold a lot more value than Toyotas(excluding 25k first gen tacomas lmao) though. Corollas and Camry's are usually a little cheaper for a nicer car, people have a very strange habit of absolutely destroying Hondas over time.

Does anyone have any recommendations for leather shift knobs? Can barely find any, almost everything is metallic and I don't want to have a shift knob that burns my hands in the summer and freezes them in the winter, and quite frankly I straight up dont like the look of them

hey, sorry in advanve for spellimg mistakes am on phone we got an old puch m50 in our shed, its just the frame my dad got it somehow and im interested in fiximg it but i need more information i will ost a pictur when i get home from work could anyone help me find specifications like different puch m50 variants, build year and engine specs and such? mind im a total fuckin rookie when it comes to anythig automative but i like the way this thing looks and its heen sittingnthere for two years untouched now

http://imgur.com/a/hUO8ltN This should be pretty easy to patch up, right?

Well Put it together so the cracks are mostly gone and glue some plate on the inside for structural strength

Does any one have access to Alldata or engine repair guides for machinists? I need to know the valve to piston clearance and piston to deck distance for a '98 Chrysler 3.8L. I think I may be able to make a Gen III/IV LS 4.8/5.3 piston work with it. 1998 Chrysler 3.8L uses a 5.945" center to center rod (same as an SRT-4) with a .9" small end bore. The piston is a flat top with a compression distance of 1.283". The bore of said piston is 96mm (same as an LS motor). The head gasket used is a .067" graphite headgasket. There's a .027" MLS gasket available as well. So what I'm looking at doing is using a Gen IV 4.8/5.3 piston in this engine but there's a few issues: 1. The LS piston has a CD of 1.325" 2. Small end bore of the LS piston is .943" I would like to use an SRT-4 rod with it, but the small end bore of that rod is .88" - Probably too much to bore out to fit the LS piston. My other choice is to use a Chrysler 3.5L rod, which has the same small end bore as the LS but it's center to center distance is 5.936", or .009" shorter, which may work in favor of this. My question is, being that the piston will be up the bore .042" (or .033" using the 3.5L rod) - Can I make up that difference using a head gasket? I'm not exactly sure the piston to valve clearance is and until I figure it out I'm not 100% sure. I feel like adding .042" to an already thick head gasket is asking a lot. Or maybe I can just shave the top of the piston down .042" lol.

Just an update for this, apparently my fan wasn't coming on. I have definitely seen it come on before so the relay must have stopped working in the past few weeks. All it took was idling in the driveway for it to overpressure.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xtlU0toucYI IT FUCKING RUNS

Damn I love the 944, they can look super modern and great with some stance going on.

@Trekintash if you ever need help with any german or translation for diagrams on the 944 i can help you

I'm going all out with the repairs, going to patch the cracks, fill with putty, sand it all back down, then repaint the whole panel black.

https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/228931/8afb39a6-8ab3-4198-9997-af17b440e797/IMG_1621.JPG https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/228931/01fe8d32-4696-46cf-8c6a-0adea43105b1/IMG_1634.JPG Getting there. Drilled and tapped the transmission out for the starter, used the mercedies as a tow vehicle and pulled the motor into alignment since the bend in the tube was "centering" away from the 3/4" offset i wanted, aligned the transmission to match, broke the steering pump off with a crowbar, got the oil filter on, changed the fluids, did vaccum lines, coolant lines, EGR lines, fitted new temp/oil/etc sensors, test fit the headers (fuck yeah they fit), got the steering wheel stuck on the shaft, got it off again using a puller, started making a fan shroud, made an expansion tank out of a 750ml beer bottle and currently figuring out the pedals assembly and brakes. And it looks exactly the same as last time.

holy shit what a fucking thing to run into when deciding to check on and post in this thread for the first time in ages, this is rad as hell I'm still feeling like a big dumb bitch about understanding coilovers, dampers, etc. Is there some good reading I can use to understand more about suspension components? I'm trying to plan some modifications out for the car I'm planning to buy. Speaking of: I'm thinking of finally getting a fun car. I was gonna spend some time making my 04 CRV more of a fun daily, but instead I'm going to leave it bone-stock (maybe do some reliability / cleanup upgrades down the road, but not for now). I'm going to buy an '18 BRZ (Limited, Performance Package so I get the Brembo psuedo-BBK and some lovely Sachs dampers) w my signing bonus from the company I'm switching to hopefully by the end of the month. If I don't switch, I'll just keep drooling and building a mental parts list lol. i can go into why i chose that car and the mods i plan to do if anyone cares. i wrote out like 3 versions explaining what/why i chose and erased em for verbosity. tldr is that i'm absolutely not going FI, not doing aggressive bodymods, and im mostly just looking to clean up the stock powerband, add what power i can get from an NA setup, and use the car for autocross and my daily.

Sounds pretty hype. Suspension mods are pretty heavy duty, and you'd need stuff like bearing presses and shit to do that work, unless you're just talking about setups for stuff already on the car. And that answer to that is that there is no right answer. Suspension setup is so deep everything from ambient temperature to how far back your seat is is going to have some effect on it. So it really comes down to what you want the car to do, how you want it to do it and where on that specific day. You're absolutely going to have to keep a setup for just driving the car around and autocrossing it too. Also, paperwork is through, Dad's thunderbird's coming home either this week or next. https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/228931/aec078e6-155f-4e23-8219-5cb70a8b08a2/image.png It even matches the XJ. What are the odds.

I changed the headunit in my Merc to an Android one with DAB+, however either the windshield blocks dab signals or the antenna that came with it is really shit. Either way I have to change the antenna since it can't be moved once it's been placed... Fun fact: Norway shut down 99% of the FM transmissions, so now pretty much everything goes through DAB.

That's an XJ?

I got help from a mechanic friend to replace my clutch before we put the engine back in my E36, and we had some issues as it seemed like the flywheel was touching the engine. "Oh yeah that's fine, look" I said, and gave my trigger wheel a whack so the flywheel moved about 0.5-1cm back. So apparently the crank isn't supposed to do that. And we were expecting to get the car running before the weekend.

Tbirds are underrated, always overshadowed by chevys and mopar stuff at car shows, if you can even find one there cause they seem to be disappearing.

https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/228931/45836fe4-d31e-4b95-bf91-d5c0d598903f/DSC_6662.JPG No, this is.