Yeah get this exact same issue since the update on a fresh install.
There might be a driver update at some point.
Microsoft did change audio APIs, so it could be a thing that wasn't accounted for
I started a 14 day game pass trial and am trying to download State of day 2 from the Windows Store, but it keeps hanging and then slowly lagging out my PC until it's almost freezing.
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/284335694799962113/449694325597667359/unknown.png
It starts out downloading at about 20MB/s, rapidly loses speed and then ceases downloading whatsoever, stuck at a few MB. Goes through a few stages, "Checking product files", "Almost ready," "Calculating download size," etc. Downloads a bit more at a few hundred kb/s then stops downloading again. This is when it starts to lag out my entire PC.
Things I've tried;
running wsreset.exe
Uninstalling and reinstalling Windows Store using powershell
Installing to different drives
Stopping and starting WS services using command prompt
At one point it got really bad - I restarted my PC and it started lagging hard after signing in. After a shut down it then wouldn't let me sign in (could move the mouse but keyboard unresponsive). Luckily it sorted itself out after a few minutes.
Weirdly I remember downloading and playing the Sea of Thieves beta through the store just fine a few months ago. Malwarebytes also activated premium trial on its own today, which likely clashed with my other antivirus, so I disabled it. This might have made things better but it's hard to tell.
Currently I'm on W10 version 1709 (judging by the OP I'm guessing I shouldn't upgrade)
I'm incredibly confused on how Windows 10's licensing works, since I haven't built a new PC since before it. If I build an entirely new PC, can I log into my Microsoft account during installation and have the license transfer over? That's how some of the material I've read makes it sound, but I'm having a difficult time understanding the specifics. I'd really rather not pay the $90 for a new copy of Windows if possible at all.
Yeah I'd like to know that too since I'll be upgrading soon as well. I heard that booting up from an existing installation on your old drive also works, but would the OS even start without all the drivers if literally everything was different?
Windows 10 will, 7 likely won't, no idea about 8 but it's garbage so you're better off upgrading.
since 1803 i have an annoying bug where sometimes my pc doesnt sleep properly, the pc stays running but the monitor wont come back on. i only find people talking about a edge sleep bug
Updated to 1803, didn't fix my store download stalling bug. At least the progress bar works now!
https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/237778/a49b724e-6d35-4051-9f49-8733848ef62a/image.png
Being unable to make working progress bars isn't just limited to the store. Haven't had a single update in the Visual Studio updater not download past 100%.
It was more of a joke at how I went through updating my OS only for a tiny change to occur rather than fixing the downloading entirely
I did a bit more reading, I made a mistake - I was searching 'windows store' rather than 'microsoft store' so I got a few more hits, problem is a bit more common than I thought. People are saying to leave the download going overnight or installing on the C: drive, I'll try the latter
How does one update to 1803? Windows update says I'm up to date despite being on version 1709.
you wait more
1803 is slow rollout
You can use the Windows upgrade assistant. Download Windows 10
Here's how my brother got a free windows liscence. It probably won't do the same thing but it might work something out
I put my boot hard drive into his PC to play my video games. Windows eventually noticed that the machine was invalid and needed to update the licence.
I called Microsoft (at 9pm), and the system accepted a liscence transfer. The joke is it wasn't invalidated on my normal hardware (we used 90% the same back then hardware perhaps)
In Win10, you apparently can skip the liscence key in installation. You will get that validate windows message I guess but that's a given. Being able to skip it allows you to hit anything up post-install for shit.
Activations are based on the motherboard though (even though it's linked to your Microsoft account), therefore, your best bet is to try the solution I posted first, so try and save your drives just for a windows transfer.
Would make sense since I updated my motherboard+cpu last year, but since I'm still using the same ssd for windows, it eventually just reactivated itself automatically
Trouble is I'm selling my old PC entirely, and its boot drive is a slow mechanical.
You'd only need to use it once to activate the machine.
Then you can just reinstall windows on a new drive
So I could plop my new SSD into my current PC, install Windows to that, then put the SSD into the new build and it'd still be registered?
Nah it works, Just after some time windows goes "oh fuck invalid"
They remove customisation options shit and you get this watermark
https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/1755/f07ac745-0c16-4706-8acf-9534834f2c57/image.png
Just had to disable the TPM in the BIOS to use more that a 20 character password for HDD encryption. What a fucking joke of an OS.
Just had a very interesting afternoon fixing a mate's computer after a fucked attempt at updating to 1803
Turns out for no good reason, during the upgrade Windows conviently forgot that his PC uses a specialised SATA controller that requires drivers to use, and deleted them. On the first reboot it got itself stuck in a BSOD loop with no way out other than to completely reinstall it from scratch. Holy fuck I knew 1803 had issues but I didn't know it'd go and fully knock out the fucking SATA drivers out of all things
Welp, Windows 10 just swallowed one of my disk drives in the middle of a game session, and why am I even surprised this OS is such a pile of shit.
At least this is just my laptop, but still, great example of Microshit 2018 quality control.
The actual disk drive itself doesn't appear on Disk Management, wondering if I should fiddle with the drivers or something to try and get it to appear? That's assuming it's not totally fucked beyond recognition.
Couldn't the hardware have just experienced a failure? Under the hood, Windows' file and drive management is considered pretty solid. If it regularly "ate" hard disks, it wouldn't be considered acceptable for an enterprise environment.
Well, I checked EventViewer and it showed an error about shadow copies failing to be written to a volume, and the disk drive being force dismounted. I ruled out formatting or deletion, especially because the loss probably wouldn't have been so sudden (like, 10 secs or so).
After looking at it, I realised I just had to try one simple thing before turning to anything more drastic. Turn the laptop off and turn it on again.
And fuck me, it worked. Still not a fan of the OS, but I am now optimistic that it won't swallow my hard drive for no particular reason.
Check SMART data. If you were on a desktop I'd suggest changing SATA port. This doesn't really sound like a software failure to me.
I had to google what the task view button is supposed to do, because it does fuck all.
Apparently it relates to the virtual desktops, but neither that button nor pressing WIN + TAB does anything at all. What gives?
WIN + TAB at least was working until recently.
yours is broken then, should be doing this (minus the blur)
https://i.imgur.com/YS9zTRd.jpg
i'd say sfc /scannow, make sure the privacy settings for timeline are at least temporarily enabled to see if that fixes it and then go from there
https://i.imgur.com/AFBHQIl.png
I've got a rather odd annoyance here, I'm using a Rosewill USB keyboard and whenever I'm at the log in screen the type box will start filling up until I hit a key. Any ideas?
Have you tried it with a different keyboard?
Is it only at the login screen or is it every text box?
Is it any specific key and have you tried prying off the cap to see what's up underneath?
Does it do it when you restart or only after it's been sitting there overnight/for a while?
My wild guess is that it's a key that's physically janked up until you press it, at which time it temporarily un-janks itself for the duration you're using the computer. An isopropyl alcohol cleaning might help if that's the case.
Turns out it's the k key and I'm definitely thinking it's a short in the board, got it used and honestly now the k key is getting pretty janky.
Water damage ho!
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