MM Pinnacle 24, Core i7 920, Dual GTX 295 - Liquid Cooled Work Log (Lots of pictures)
647 replies, posted
[QUOTE=Zorlok;14476533]That's the real serious stuff, drop one of the RB engines in a 240SX. Another fun swap is the small block 350 in a 280Z.[/QUOTE]
My dad has a 280Z. We're currently redoing it.
Xenos you could always buy some materials to sleeve your wires and then they would all be black and no odd colors popping out just your green tubes.
[QUOTE=steven20;14483217]Xenos you could always buy some materials to sleeve your wires and then they would all be black and no odd colors popping out just your green tubes.[/QUOTE]
I have a green sleeve on the big ones but the other cables are tiny and they aren't worth the work. THere are also the components on the mobo that are blue and stuff that bug me.
[QUOTE=Xenos;14484985]I have a green sleeve on the big ones but the other cables are tiny and they aren't worth the work. THere are also the components on the mobo that are blue and stuff that bug me.[/QUOTE]
I love sleeving wires and I would do even the smallest ones like case fans. To me it just looks so much more professional. As for the components on the mobo you're just about out of luck, might have been better to go with an EVGA mobo that has Green and black colors on it.
What are your temps at 4.2ghz? How much higher have you gone?
[QUOTE=Hexxeh;14642254]What are your temps at 4.2ghz? How much higher have you gone?[/QUOTE]
Come on, we need temps + max overclock ;)
[QUOTE=Xenos;14476407]It must be my placement and the fact that that my case isn't closed. I wish I had more places to put my cathodes. Here is what mine looks like. notice how the whole tubes are illuminated. The last pic is with my green catodes one. If anyone has any recommendations for where I can put my 4 cathodes, Let me know. (Antec 1200 case) (12" cathodes)
(BIGASS IMAGES)
The thing that I don't like most is that I can see all the nasty colors of all my components. I got the green cathodes so I didn't have the ugly ass orange heat sinks and the red wires so prevalent when I look at it. I need some serious redecorating lol.[/QUOTE]
DAAAAAAAMN @ the pictures
I'd like to see more pics of the OP's rig. Where's the finished product?
It was completely finished before I set off to i36 a couple of days ago, just been pretty busy recently, I'll get some pics soon
Okay cool
It really is a headturner. It's a huge red and back monolith, something very special.
[QUOTE=cosmic duck;14661743]It really is a headturner. It's a huge red and back monolith, something very special.[/QUOTE]
He should have put out a tip jar.
Honestly, I think I came a little. The only way you can describe this is "epic".
(without the "HaHa EpIc WiN xD" look)
More pictures!
[QUOTE=darkride195;14476392]my dad has a 65' mustang, and that is a muscle car, i can hear him all the way a block away.[/QUOTE]
Only a block away? Learn about straight-through on a big-block...then we can talk..btw fords sucks Mopar ftw. lulz
[QUOTE=eskimobob925;14690866]Only a block away? Learn about straight-through on a big-block...then we can talk..btw fords sucks Mopar ftw. lulz[/QUOTE]
Are you kidding? Glasspacks? I've never heard a car with Glasspacks that didn't scream "redneck" from a quarter mile away.
Come on, can we get these temps? My WC kit item choices depend on this. :D
Idle @ 4.2Ghz, All power saving and multiplier reducing options disabled in bios, HyperThreading Disabled. All low speed fans
[img]http://www.tehupload.com/uploads/955394faf45e1c6idle.JPG[/img]
Please take all temperatures that I post as what they are, a rough indication. Due to the method in which temperatures are calculated, software based temperature programs are notoriously inaccurate, positively or negatively. The only real way to get an accurate temperature reading is to drill a temperature probe into the CPU heatspreader
nice, that's running cool.
Can I ask why you would turn HT off?
[QUOTE=Odellus;14694289]Can I ask why you would turn HT off?[/QUOTE]
HT reduces FPS in a large percentage of games and increases temps. If you're not doing CPU heavy multithreaded tasks such as video encoding it's useless. It was also causing compatability issues with some games, such as Grid, which was detecing all 8 as physical cores, sending it into a loading loop
What games doesn't it decrease framerate in?
[QUOTE=Odellus;14694397]What games doesn't it decrease framerate in?[/QUOTE]
I can't really answer that, as it's not really a specific genre of games that are affected, but I'd take a guess that Supreme Commander is one of the few games that would benefit from it. Couldn't realy list any games that would know what to do with 8 Cores. Crysis, Far Cry 2 and Unreal Tournament 3 on the other hand (games that I play) all have slowdowns. It's just a couple of % on average, but add to that the temperature increase, HT just isn't worth it for gaming.
20 minutes 99% CPU Prime95 StressTest, Everything else as before
[img]http://www.tehupload.com/uploads/553105255b66fc6benchmark.PNG[/img]
That's considerably hotter than I expected, for a triple TFC rad and 18w pump! :O
The temperatures were pretty much in line with what I expected. You have to increase the voltage to run the Core i7 at 4.2Ghz, and as the memory controller is now in the CPU they aren't a particulary cool generation of CPUs. The CPU is actually sharing a Quad TFC Rad, with the MOSFETS, NB & SB.
[QUOTE=Hexxeh;14694579]That's considerably hotter than I expected, for a triple TFC rad and 18w pump! :O[/QUOTE]
Concidering he's overclocked his CPU 63% higher than what it's made to run at, I'd say those are fine temps.
[QUOTE=Pandamobile;14694635]Concidering he's overclocked his CPU 63% higher than what it's made to run at, I'd say those are fine temps.[/QUOTE]
You can do 3.8ghz with a stock cooler, so 4.2ghz isn't really too impressive.
I'm watercooling a 920 for a friend and an E8500 for myself, and he's hoping to do 4.2ghz but can't spend as much as this, he's getting a 240mm rad for example and a D-Tek pump...
Edit: Oh, didn't know it was sharing a loop with the rest of the mobo components...
Just to prove my point about the innacuracy of temperature reading programs, this was taken at the same time, just using CoreTemp instead of RealTemp
[img]http://www.tehupload.com/uploads/56994cc7b57076dtemp.PNG[/img]
[QUOTE=Hexxeh;14694656]You can do 3.8ghz with a stock cooler, so 4.2ghz isn't really too impressive.
I'm watercooling a 920 for a friend and an E8500 for myself, and he's hoping to do 4.2ghz but can't spend as much as this, he's getting a 240mm rad for example and a D-Tek pump...[/QUOTE]
If I wanted lower temperatures I would have used higher speed fans. 70c load still leaves room for higher voltages, but you have to understand there is a big difference between 3.8 and 4.2. When you start to get past 3.8, the CPU needs much higher voltage boosts to be 100% stable, and fan based system would quickly hit 100 degrees and overheat. I choose to use a big radiator but low speed fans so I could get good cooling without having a hoover sat next to me.
So which one IS the most accurate?
Currently, I use both HWMonitor and Core Temp, and the readings are pretty consistent.
I've always relied on CoreTemp really, but they both read from the same sensors so I don't seem how they get different readings.
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