I've already got a build mostly picked out, and I'm wondering if anyone can help me find better prices on the parts.
I already have:
A mouse
A keyboard
A monitor
An OS
Speakers etc.
I'm in the US
Here's what I've got so far:
8GM G.Skill Ram ($40)
[url]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231314[/url]
asus motherboard ($105)
[url]http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2406890&CatId=6976[/url]
i5 sandy bridge 3.3GHz cpu ($210)
[url]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115073&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-_-pla-_-NA-_-NA[/url]
coolermaster case ($40)
[url]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119248[/url]
nvidia gtx 560 ti ($190)
[url]http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2148471&SRCCODE=WEBGOOPA&cm_mmc_o=mH4CjC7BBTkwCjCV1-CjCE&gclid=CO_NmoWK5rICFeaDQgod0GIAcw[/url]
corsair 750w power supply ($100) (a weaker one might be okay)
[url]http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3844176&CatId=2533[/url]
WD 1TB hdd ($85)
[url]http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1421254&CatId=2459[/url]
Total: $770
I already have $410, so anything that can shave off some of the remaining $360 would make buying it much easier. Also maybe getting everything from one website.
Get the 2500k, or the [del]3750k[/del] 3570k. Always worth 20 dollars to have overclocking available. Even if you don't use it right away, it's an option. Can always throw an h 212 evo afterwards and overclock then.
Almost certainly don't need 750 watts in that system. Get something in the 500-600 watt range. You could get away with a good 80 plus bronze. If the rosewill capstones are still on sale at newegg, that's a really good place to start for a cheap gold PSU.
[I]Please[/I] don't get a caviar green. Get a blue at a minimum. Black is ideal, but not required. Greens are AWFUL.
I'm sure you could get a slightly lower end motherboard and be fine. You could probably score a better deal on a GPU as well. I realize you are trying to cut your budget a bit, but seeing a 2500 without the k makes me cry, and greens are just bad.
[QUOTE=Zephyrs;37903542]Get the 2500k, or the [B]3750k[/B]. Always worth 20 dollars to have overclocking available. Even if you don't use it right away, it's an option. Can always throw an h 212 evo afterwards and overclock then.[/QUOTE]
I'm sure you mean 3570K?
Whoops. Fat fingered that one.
Edited.
[QUOTE=Zephyrs;37903542]Get the 2500k, or the [del]3750k[/del] 3570k. Always worth 20 dollars to have overclocking available. Even if you don't use it right away, it's an option. Can always throw an h 212 evo afterwards and overclock then.
Almost certainly don't need 750 watts in that system. Get something in the 500-600 watt range. You could get away with a good 80 plus bronze. If the rosewill capstones are still on sale at newegg, that's a really good place to start for a cheap gold PSU.
[I]Please[/I] don't get a caviar green. Get a blue at a minimum. Black is ideal, but not required. Greens are AWFUL.
I'm sure you could get a slightly lower end motherboard and be fine. You could probably score a better deal on a GPU as well. I realize you are trying to cut your budget a bit, but seeing a 2500 without the k makes me cry, and greens are just bad.[/QUOTE]
I did mean to find a 2500k, got that page instead somehow.
Found a better hardrive, motherboard, powersupply, and cpu. I think I'll stick with this gpu.
updated build:
8GM Ram ($40)
[url]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231314[/url]
motherboard ($80)
[url]http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=7303315&CatId=6977[/url]
i5 sandy bridge 3.3GHz cpu ($220)
[url]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115072[/url]
case ($40)
[url]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119248[/url]
nvidia gtx 560 ti ($190)
[url]http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2148471&SRCCODE=WEBGOOPA&cm_mmc_o=mH4CjC7BBTkwCjCV1-CjCE&gclid=CO_NmoWK5rICFeaDQgod0GIAcw[/url]
750w power supply ($60) (a weaker one might be okay)
[url]http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=7220650&SRCCODE=WEBGOOPA&cm_mmc_o=mH4CjC7BBTkwCjCV1-CjCE&gclid=CPzWj7qp5rICFWXhQgodXUAAnA[/url]
1TB hdd ($75)
[url]http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=7288051&csid=_61[/url]
Total: $705
Remaining: $295
Thanks for the advice, that really helped
That psu sucks.
[url=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116504]3570k[/url] ~230
[url=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157304]Asrock Z75[/url] ~85
[url=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233186]Corsair Vengeance 2x4gb[/url] ~40
[url=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139040]Corsair CX750[/url] ~100
[url=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152185]Samsung Spintpoint 1tb[/url] ~85
[url=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129181]Antec One Case[/url] ~50
Use promos: MB106 PSU106 CPU106 MEM106 CollegeSave5
Total: ~540, now add a gpu that fits within budget.
Technically that adds up to $590, you didn't include the case. I might swap in a few of those parts.
If you're planning on gaming, I would get a Radeon HD 7850 instead of a GTX 560 ti. They are around the same price point, but the differences in the performance are worth the upgrade.
[QUOTE=ZenX2;37906357]Technically that adds up to $590, you didn't include the case. I might swap in a few of those parts.[/QUOTE]
It does include the case. Add it to your cart and use the promos I gave.
~~~
If you want to save some more money, get a cx500 or cx600 instead.
Thanks for all the advice guys, it's really helped me save money on this thing.
I think I've got the build finalized and ready to order in a few days. The ridiculous thing is that I have to pay $53 tax and 3-day shipping is $10, but 2-day shipping is $76.
Do a trial for shoprunner for free two-day shipping. I did and just cancelled it afterwards.
[QUOTE=ZenX2;37914252]I think I've got the build finalized and ready to order in a few days. The ridiculous thing is that I have to pay $53 tax and 3-day shipping is $10, but 2-day shipping is $76.[/QUOTE]
So what's your final build? Some of the parts posted in this thread are slightly overpriced for this budget, for example you could save $40 by getting the i5-3550P instead of the 3570K (at a loss of a whopping 0.3 GHz and the ability to overclock, not something worth mourning considering how fast Ivy bridge quads are anyways) and invest that in a better graphics card for a much more tangible performance boost. Similar motherboards, RAM, and power supplies can also be had for quite a bit cheaper, and the savings really add up.
Here's a build I've been recommending a lot recently, feel free to replace the SSD with a hard drive if you need the extra storage. Also note that the video card has a $10 mail-in rebate.
[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0F7AVQtP2EI/UG4sdDfUTrI/AAAAAAAADV4/ern9AgqZpA4/s0/2012-10-04_20-40-14.jpg[/img]
Link to list on newegg: [url]http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=20422445[/url]
[editline]4th October 2012[/editline]
Also, the 7850 is a better buy than that old 560 Ti. Here's an average of the performance of many modern cards averaged over 20+ games.
[img]http://tpucdn.com/reviews/MSI/HD_7850_Power_Edition/images/perfrel.gif[/img]
The 7850 is about 7-8% faster (not to mention more overclockable due to the much better cooler) and 20% cheaper (more if you get the MIR.) The 560 Ti is beginning to show its age.
PSU in above post is an IED
get [url]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151093[/url]
[QUOTE=Barbarian887;37918447]PSU in above post is an IED
get [url]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151093[/url][/QUOTE]
You seem to not do research. Cooler Master isn't some shit company like Coolmax, PowerMax or Q-Tech.
Would 500W be enough for everything?
[QUOTE=ZenX2;37924024]Would 500W be enough for everything?[/QUOTE]
Yeah, it'll be plenty. The 7850 will only draw about 150W max, and the i5-3350P only draws up to 69W (the 3570K and up are 77W parts.) Everything else (RAM, SSD, fans, mobo) won't add up to more than another 50W, probably more like 30. That all comes to 249W, so assuming the PSU were only 75% efficient, you would have an available power budget of 375W, so you'd still have 125W to spare.
[QUOTE=Evilan;37921854]You seem to not do research. Cooler Master isn't some shit company like Coolmax, PowerMax or Q-Tech.[/QUOTE]
uhh that doesn't mean it's automatically a good PSU
[quote][url]http://www.hardocp.com/article/2009/02/16/entry_level_power_supply_roundup/14[/url]
The AcBel built Cooler Master eXtreme Power 500w is certainly one of the older and lower end designs in today's roundup and as such it really isn't surprising that it is not the top unit today. While the unit was able to output its claimed capacity at 45c (and at 100v AC input) it was not a great unit or even a passing unit as the DC Output Quality was just plain bad at full load. The unit’s component selection and build quality are far from top notch, the efficiency peaked at ~77% and bottomed out at ~71%. The DC Output Quality was out of specification limits at full load on ALL of the rails at 100v. At the current price of $49.99 the eXtreme Power 500w is certainly not an “eXtremely” amazing buy as it did not cleanly pass testing.[/quote]
[QUOTE=reapaninja;37928198]uhh that doesn't mean it's automatically a good PSU[/QUOTE]
Yeah, it's not the world's greatest PSU, but it doesn't need to be either, especially since it won't even be near full load with this type of build. It will certainly do its job just fine for this machine, and that's as good as it needs to be... no need to scare the OP into getting a $80+ PSU that would just be going to waste. An IED, honestly? Let's reserve that title for Rosewill.
[QUOTE=mblunk;37924066]Yeah, it'll be plenty. The 7850 will only draw about 150W max, and the i5-3350P only draws up to 69W (the 3570K and up are 77W parts.) Everything else (RAM, SSD, fans, mobo) won't add up to more than another 50W, probably more like 30. That all comes to 249W, so assuming the PSU were only 75% efficient, you would have an available power budget of 375W, so you'd still have 125W to spare.[/QUOTE]
that's not how efficiency works at all
efficiency affects the draw between a PSU and the wall, and has nothing to do with how much a PSU can output
at 80% efficiency if components are pulling 80W from the PSU then 100W will be pulled from the wall, 20W of which is wasted e.g. as heat
[QUOTE=reapaninja;37928281]that's not how efficiency works at all
efficiency affects the draw between a PSU and the wall, and has nothing to do with how much a PSU can output
at 80% efficiency if components are pulling 80W from the PSU then 100W will be pulled from the wall, 20W of which is wasted e.g. as heat[/QUOTE]
Efficiency between wall and components (guess what, that's PSU output), not just wall and unit. You really want to be a sperg and have a semantic debate in someone's PC building thread?
[QUOTE=mblunk;37928272]Yeah, it's not the world's greatest PSU, but it doesn't need to be either, especially since it won't even be near full load with this type of build. It will certainly do its job just fine for this machine, and that's as good as it needs to be... no need to scare the OP into getting a $80+ PSU that would just be going to waste. An IED, honestly? Let's reserve that title for Rosewill.[/QUOTE]
completely the wrong attitude to have with PSUs
why risk every component in a build with a POS $40 unit when you could be using a $55 seasonic based neo eco, $45 with a current offer
and rosewill has some excellently priced 80+ gold super flower OEMd units, and I wouldn't place their shittier lines on a level lower than the extreme power
[editline]6th October 2012[/editline]
[QUOTE=mblunk;37928314]Efficiency between wall and components (guess what, that's PSU output), not just wall and unit. You really want to be a sperg and have a semantic debate in someone's PC building thread?[/QUOTE]
a PSU has nothing to do with how much a component will draw
if a GPU is going to draw 100W it will do so with any PSU
if a PSU can output 480W/40A on 12V, it will do so
efficiency affects how [B]efficient[/B] a PSU is at drawing that power, note the keyword efficient, hint it has something to do with efficiency
this is PSU basics, if you can't understand this then you're misinformed and have no place recommending any
[QUOTE=reapaninja;37928369]completely the wrong attitude to have with PSUs
why risk every component in a build with a POS $40 unit when you could be using a $55 seasonic based neo eco, $45 with a current offer
and rosewill has some excellently priced 80+ gold super flower OEMd units, and I wouldn't place their shittier lines on a level lower than the extreme power
[editline]6th October 2012[/editline]
a PSU has nothing to do with how much a component will draw
if a GPU is going to draw 100W it will do so with any PSU
if a PSU can output 480W/40A on 12V, it will do so
efficiency affects how [B]efficient[/B] a PSU is at drawing that power, note the keyword efficient, hint it has something to do with efficiency
this is PSU basics, if you can't understand this then you're misinformed and have no place recommending any[/QUOTE]
Where did I say that a component would draw any different amount of power based on the PSU used?! Are there any other words you'd like to put in my mouth for me? And I was using the term efficiency regarding actual output capabilities of the unit relative to advertised (because you don't really want to be running most consumer units at full advertised load, unless that's what you do?), which you would've understood if you had read my post for comprehension instead of semantics. Of course there's the efficiency measure advertised and pertaining to 80+ ratings which is wall-to-unit, but that's not what I was talking about in this case.
The OP asked to reduce the cost of his build (using workable parts), and what's what I did.. he didn't ask to use premium parts. If his budget had more room, then of course I'd go for something higher up the ladder, but unless you want to show me that PSU fails when you pull 300W from it or have another unit that'll also do the job for less money, then go ahead and post it instead of starting drama over the fact that someone used a less-than-premium component at a less-than-premium budget.
[QUOTE=mblunk;37928646]Where did I say that a component would draw any different amount of power based on the PSU used?![/quote]
[QUOTE=mblunk;37924066]so assuming the PSU were only 75% efficient, you would have an available power budget of 375W, so you'd still have 125W to spare.[/QUOTE]
here where you're talking about the maximum output of the PSU as 75% of it's advertised 500W which is incorrect
it would be possible to pull 500W from a 500W 75% efficiency PSU (ignoring any failures, protection tripping or the entire rails discussion), but it would have to pull the remaining 25% from the wall and it would be wasted as heat
375W is not the "power budget"
[quote]Are there any other words you'd like to put in my mouth for me? And I was using the term efficiency regarding actual output capabilities of the unit relative to advertised (because you don't really want to be running most consumer units at full advertised load, unless that's what you do?), which you would've understood if you had read my post for comprehension instead of semantics.
Of course there's the efficiency measure advertised and pertaining to 80+ ratings which is wall-to-unit, but that's not what I was talking about in this case.[/quote]
the closest meaning I can gather from "actual output capabilities" is rails but that 375W quote doesn't match up to that, the output limits for a PSU depend on what rails it has and what you're pulling from each rail
seeing as it's a modern system the 12V rail is the only one worth looking at, in which case the listed max is 360W which still isn't 375W so I'm still not sure what you mean
I'm far from dumb enough to try to pull a rail's limit, 50% load produces the best efficiency but I'm perfectly happy with 70% ish, I'd rather put money towards a higher quality PSU than a higher capacity just for reaching 50%
the problem here is terminology, in terms of PSUs efficiency refers only to the same sense as 80+ Certified, you can't expect to start using it in a completely different way and have every suddenly understand, especially when efficiency doesn't mean anything close to maximum output
[quote]The OP asked to reduce the cost of his build (using workable parts), and what's what I did.. he didn't ask to use premium parts. If his budget had more room, then of course I'd go for something higher up the ladder, but unless you want to show me that PSU fails when you pull 300W from it or have another unit that'll also do the job for less money, then go ahead and post it instead of starting drama over the fact that someone used a less-than-premium component at a less-than-premium budget.[/QUOTE]
I have never said to use more expensive/"premium" parts, I've just said to use better quality ones
[url]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371030&Tpk=neo%20eco%20520w[/url] is $5 more than the extreme power, seasonic OEM > acbel OEM, 480W 12V rail > 360W 12V rail, 3 years warranty > 2 years, higher efficiency and more native connectors
there is absolutely no reason to get the extreme power over this
I have not been trying to "start drama", I'm just correcting misinformation
if you've been reading anything I've posted as aggressive then that's not been my intention and I'm not at fault for that
[QUOTE=reapaninja;37929087]here where you're talking about the maximum output of the PSU as 75% of it's advertised 500W which is incorrect
it would be possible to pull 500W from a 500W 75% efficiency PSU (ignoring any failures, protection tripping or the entire rails discussion), but it would have to pull the remaining 25% from the wall and it would be wasted as heat
375W is not the "power budget"
the closest meaning I can gather from "actual output capabilities" is rails but that 375W quote doesn't match up to that, the output limits for a PSU depend on what rails it has and what you're pulling from each rail
seeing as it's a modern system the 12V rail is the only one worth looking at, in which case the listed max is 360W which still isn't 375W so I'm still not sure what you mean
I'm far from dumb enough to try to pull a rail's limit, 50% load produces the best efficiency but I'm perfectly happy with 70% ish, I'd rather put money towards a higher quality PSU than a higher capacity just for reaching 50%
the problem here is terminology, in terms of PSUs efficiency refers only to the same sense as 80+ Certified, you can't expect to start using it in a completely different way and have every suddenly understand, especially when efficiency doesn't mean anything close to maximum output
I have never said to use more expensive/"premium" parts, I've just said to use better quality ones
[url]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371030&Tpk=neo%20eco%20520w[/url] is $5 more than the extreme power, seasonic OEM > acbel OEM, 480W 12V rail > 360W 12V rail, 3 years warranty > 2 years, higher efficiency and more native connectors
there is absolutely no reason to get the extreme power over this
I have not been trying to "start drama", I'm just correcting misinformation
if you've been reading anything I've posted as aggressive then that's not been my intention and I'm not at fault for that[/QUOTE]
Sorry for using "efficiency" in a perhaps unexpected way in a PSU context, although it sounds like you still understood exactly what I meant - that it's best to run power supplies in this price range (hell, in general) at a load well below 100%. Yes, that Antec unit is a better choice when it's available for $5 more and it shows in the ratings distribution, I just took issue with the fact that there was so much trouble over the CM unit when it'd still be more than up for the job.
the problem is that "up for the job" isn't good enough for PSUs
when you're putting $600 of hardware in the hands of one component you want it to be one you can trust to not flip out and throw a few hundred watts down a rail before popping violently because they skimped on safety protection, or slowly kill a component with noisy power
this would be alright if it were easy to tell if a unit is good at a glance but you have to find reliable reviews performed with the right equipment to find out if it's going to perform within spec
and just because a brand is well known in other areas it doesn't mean they've put effort into their PSU lineup, CM is a great example of this because in general their PSUs aren't great choices
still taking just the extreme power plus 500 in example, as well as the [H] review I already posted hardware secrets wrote
[quote]Cooler Master eXtreme Power Plus 500 W is the perfect example to explain why maximum power isn’t everything. This power supply can really deliver 500 W, but with efficiency above 80% only when you pull between 40% and 60% load (between 200 W and 300 W) and electrical noise level above the maximum allowed if you pull 80% load or more (i.e., starting at 400 W).
We can’t recommend this power supply, however if you are really on a budget this may be an option until you have money to buy a decent power supply for your PC.
Compared to the 460 W model we have already reviewed, the main components are the same, with the switching transistors replaced with more powerful models. The printed circuit board, however, is different.[/quote]
it's a terrible unit hidden behind the coolermaster brand chosen for it's ability to provide power without any thought put into other important aspects like electrical noise
at the time of the review the only positive aspect was the price, and three years later there's much better choices at the same price point
[editline]6th October 2012[/editline]
sorry if I'm going into ridiculous detail, PSUs are kindof fascinating to me as a product built on mountains of marketing BS
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