The "Quick Questions that does not Deserve a Thread"...Thread. V3
9,659 replies, posted
[QUOTE=Makol;36223442]If you save $20 more you could get a HD 6770, if not the best you can do for $100 would be to get a HD 6750.
HD 6770 (comes with Dirt 3 for free!) [url]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150560[/url]
HD 6750 [url]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150602[/url][/QUOTE]
Now i feel really guilty for nabbing an HD 6850 for 106.
My gigabit ethernet controller is only operating at 100mbit. Anyone know any possible causes for this?(more details below)
This is a freshly installed motherboard and the previous motherboard also had gigabit ethernet which worked fine.
My router also has gigabit ethernet and it passes through nothing in between(this should be ruled out anyway if it worked previously).
It is a Atheros AR8151 on a Gigabyte GA-Z77X-D3H motherboard, there is some software(other than the drivers) which came with it for the network controller but it doesn't seem to be much use.
I've looked through the BIOS and cannot find anything relating to it.
Thanks in advance.
Edit: Forgot to mention, in the BIOS there was an option which was disabled by default called "Network stack". I can't find anything on it in the manual the and description in the BIOS isn't very helpful. If anyone can help me figure out what it is I'd appreciate it. While I suspect it is unrelated, I'll probably try enabling it anyway after I get done with what I'm doing now.
-snip-
[QUOTE=Jaehead;36272876]Compared to the ASUS this has better specs all round for the same price
[URL]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834152347[/URL] (675m)
[/QUOTE]
That seems just lovely, I think I'll buy this one.
I just built a new family computer to replace one that broke. My brother said he would get me an OS from his college but the key he gave me for Windows 7 Pro 64bit doesn't work. If anyone has an extra key would you be so kind and let me use it?
[editline]edit[/editline]
Got a working key. Problem solved.
Is it worth upgrading my HD6950 2gb to a GTX670?
Is there by any chance an *easy* way to upgrade a Windows 7 32-bit install to 64-bit? The disc I installed from has both, and my rig is definitely 64-bit capable, but I accidentally installed it as 32-bit. I've already got all my shit installed, definitely don't want to lose any of that and start from scratch, but is there a way to reinstall it without losing my data?
[QUOTE=gman003-main;36276176]Is there by any chance an *easy* way to upgrade a Windows 7 32-bit install to 64-bit? The disc I installed from has both, and my rig is definitely 64-bit capable, but I accidentally installed it as 32-bit. I've already got all my shit installed, definitely don't want to lose any of that and start from scratch, but is there a way to reinstall it without losing my data?[/QUOTE]
have fun with windows.old
[QUOTE=MadBomber;36275907]Is it worth upgrading my HD6950 2gb to a GTX670?[/QUOTE]
I don't think it would be worth it, 680 perhaps, not really a 670
Is there any easy way to move your own "User" folder in Windows 7? (Accessible by typing %USERPROFILE% in the startmenu).
I want to move it to another hard drive but I'm afraid that game saves, configs and all that stuff connected to installed programs will get borked.
[QUOTE=FlubberNugget;36276719]I don't think it would be worth it, 680 perhaps, not really a 670[/QUOTE]
Gigabyte 670 and hope for a good batch. You can overclock that thing like a motherfucker, you can even surpass the 680.
[editline]10th June 2012[/editline]
[QUOTE=gman003-main;36276176]Is there by any chance an *easy* way to upgrade a Windows 7 32-bit install to 64-bit? The disc I installed from has both, and my rig is definitely 64-bit capable, but I accidentally installed it as 32-bit. I've already got all my shit installed, definitely don't want to lose any of that and start from scratch, but is there a way to reinstall it without losing my data?[/QUOTE]
I have fallen into the same trap once before, I have searched for hours on end but to no avail. The only option is to re-install for all I know.
How do European cell phones work when making a plan? In the US it's buy the phone and a 24 month contract pretty much everywhere. When ever it's mentioned on here people start saying "welcome to america" but never mention how Europe does it. Is it better/different?
[editline]10th June 2012[/editline]
And maybe using Europe is too broad of a term, but my question stands for different areas.
[QUOTE=martijnp3000;36269583]Try using Avast, MSE and MBAM to hunt it down.
[editline]10th June 2012[/editline]
Right click taskbar>System tray>Modify (or something along those lines)> then make sure the volume icon is set to display and not hide.[/QUOTE]
Avast takes 19 hours to scan a 32kb file after a certain amount of files.
MSE is broken (somehow just dissappered from my system.)
Running MBAM right now
For some reason, a lot of texture in various games are low quality, even with the settings maxed. I figure this has to to with the paged pool because that's what used to happen in l4d2 with it was set to low.
I checked l4d2 and the paged pool is set to high and the textures look fine.
[Img]http://puu.sh/A8jl[/Img]
What can I do to resolve this?
[QUOTE=FullStreak12;36278656]How do European cell phones work when making a plan? In the US it's buy the phone and a 24 month contract pretty much everywhere. When ever it's mentioned on here people start saying "welcome to america" but never mention how Europe does it. Is it better/different?
[editline]10th June 2012[/editline]
And maybe using Europe is too broad of a term, but my question stands for different areas.[/QUOTE]
In the UK, you normally get the phone free with the contract (What phone depends on how much and how long the contract is), otherwise you have to pay a portion of the phone cost.
For example, for a 16GB Samsung Galaxy S3 on Vodafone, the phone would be free if you got the £41 p/m 24m contract, but you would have to pay £89 if you only wanted the £31 p/m contract.
I'm in China. You know my question.
Hey guys I am getting a laptop this summer. I have it narrowed down to two choices pretty much;
[url]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834246322[/url]
[url]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834246328[/url]
Any other suggestions are welcome as well. My budget cant really change either, maybe $100 at the [I]most[/I]
EDIT;
Whoa whoa whoa wait a minute. How is this thing;
[url]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834158073[/url] ?
Little nicer processor, better graphics, only $20 more
The second one you linked will be much better if you plan on gaming
How about the one that I edited in?
with that CPU the graphics aren't going to be very useful for gaming,
My new 750W PSU died and I'm wondering if a 600W PSU would still be able to put up with my hardware while I wait for a replacement.
Specs:
i5 3570K(no overclocking)
Gigabyte GA-Z77X-D3H(mid-high end board)
8GB DDR3 RAM at 1600MHz
4 HDDs(all 7200RPM)
Nvidia GTX 470
The old, temporary PSU is a Coolermaster RS-600-ASAA: [url]http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=39[/url]
Basically I want to be able to continue to use my computer as I would with the dead PSU(basically playing games and watching movies).
[QUOTE=ButtsexV3;36282088]with that CPU the graphics aren't going to be very useful for gaming,[/QUOTE]
Which laptop? Im shying away from the HP because of this thread: [url]http://facepunch.com/showthread.php?t=1188623[/url]
I have a new (sandy bridge) HP that doesn't have any overheating problems, most of that is just bandwagon I figure
Help, I disassembled my computer and smashed the parts with a hammer. I put the computer back together and it wouldn't work! How do I fix this?
You have to add metal flakes to the glue and glob it all over anything important silly
[QUOTE=Black0ut;36282114]My new 750W PSU died and I'm wondering if a 600W PSU would still be able to put up with my hardware while I wait for a replacement.
Specs:
i5 3570K(no overclocking)
Gigabyte GA-Z77X-D3H(mid-high end board)
8GB DDR3 RAM at 1600MHz
4 HDDs(all 7200RPM)
Nvidia GTX 470
The old, temporary PSU is a Coolermaster RS-600-ASAA: [url]http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=39[/url]
Basically I want to be able to continue to use my computer as I would with the dead PSU(basically playing games and watching movies).[/QUOTE]
Sorry if I sound pushy but I need a response kind of urgently so if you have any idea just say. I don't want it to damage all my new components.
a 600w will do your stuff fine
[QUOTE=Abrown516;36280470]I'm in China. You know my question.[/QUOTE]
If the question is what I think it is, then I know of the existence of a Firefox addon, but I'm not sure it's being updated. It doesn't work with the latest Firefox though.
(if anyone's lost PM me and I'll tell you. I'd just tell you here but...yeah...)
Can someone recommend me a slim non-mechanical, non-"clacky" keyboard.
I had an Enermax KB002U-b before a small part in it broke (I'm using a replacement right now). I want to find a keyboard that is similar in key style to it.
[QUOTE=lavacano;36282391]If the question is what I think it is, then I know of the existence of a Firefox addon, but I'm not sure it's being updated. It doesn't work with the latest Firefox though.
(if anyone's lost PM me and I'll tell you. I'd just tell you here but...yeah...)[/QUOTE]
I'm using Chrome
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