The "Quick Questions that does not Deserve a Thread"...Thread. V3 - Hardware & Software

[QUOTE=Zerokateo;37711502] Also which GPU would look better with this motherboard? [url]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131821&Tpk=sabertooth%20z77[/url] ASUS 670 [url]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121637[/url] Or MSI 670 [url]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127685[/url][/QUOTE]

MSI I think the DirectCU coolers are hideous in any case tbh That MSI one isn't too pretty, but I'd put it above the ASUS.

Alright, just wanted to make sure it wasn't going to ruin the look of the motherboard. But then again if i get crafty I could paint that blue stripe.

[QUOTE=Zerokateo;37712643]Alright, just wanted to make sure it wasn't going to ruin the look of the motherboard. But then again if i get crafty I could paint that blue stripe.[/QUOTE] You could probably find a matching spray colour and yank the cooler off, should be pretty simple to spray. It would like pretty nice in all black. Did they stop the Frozr coolers for the 670?

[QUOTE=FlubberNugget;37712686]You could probably find a matching spray colour and yank the cooler off, should be pretty simple to spray. It would like pretty nice in all black. Did they stop the Frozr coolers for the 670?[/QUOTE] No, thats actually their new Twin Frozr 4. I don't think they made them with the silver twin frozr 3's.

[QUOTE=Zerokateo;37712713]No, thats actually their new Twin Frozr 4. I don't think they made them with the silver twin frozr 3's.[/QUOTE] Damn, that sucks. My Twin Frozr III looks great, but that just looks bleh

They have a new frozr? Also the triple slot DC2 is still the quietest comes-with-card cooler, next is TF3, TF2. I wish I went with stock cards :(

[QUOTE=FlubberNugget;37712806]Damn, that sucks. My Twin Frozr III looks great, but that just looks bleh[/QUOTE] I mean it looks great with an MSI or ASUS board ( besides the sabertooth and rampage ) and I think thats what they we're going for, also since alot of people do black and blue now. [editline]18th September 2012[/editline] Also the new design makes the fans spin backwards for 30 seconds to prevent dust buildup and then spin forwards.

My cards were the first from MSI to have that option. In my unboxing and overview I show it in action, though hard to see. I should do it again with my SLR camera.

I hate how Twin Frozr IV does the reverse spin to remove dust, I always get scared soemthign might be boke when it goes into turbine mode.

Could anybody give me an opinion on the laptop I posted on the previous page?

SLI'd 560's or one 680?

680. [editline]18th September 2012[/editline] How big of a difference is there going to be between a $300 custom loop water cooling system, and an H100? Cause I really want to do watercooling but a $300 custom loop just for maybe a 5 - 10C difference really doesn't appeal to me.

[QUOTE=nehkz;37714197]SLI'd 560's or one 680?[/QUOTE] Go big before SLI. Keep your upgrade paths open.

[QUOTE=Zerokateo;37714688]680. [editline]18th September 2012[/editline] How big of a difference is there going to be between a $300 custom loop water cooling system, and an H100? Cause I really want to do watercooling but a $300 custom loop just for maybe a 5 - 10C difference really doesn't appeal to me.[/QUOTE] First of all, do you need watercooling? You can probably get an equally as quiet fan setup for cheaper

If you are just cooling the CPU, you could nearly make that $300 kit fanless I'd bet or close to it with some 800RPM GT's. Closed loops are for convenience or sometimes aesthetics, they don't cool really that well. Also between watercooling, the thing is it varies in cooling capacity. You probably wouldn't see much difference unless you're running a realllly hot processor. If you're not it's good for quiet operation since you are effectively pumping heat to a single point to be cooled instead of trying to spread it all around like a heatsink. $300 kit = Possible much quieter, more customization, control H100 = Cheaper, Easier, smaller.

[QUOTE=Brt5470;37715383]If you are just cooling the CPU, you could nearly make that $300 kit fanless I'd bet or close to it with some 800RPM GT's. Closed loops are for convenience or sometimes aesthetics, they don't cool really that well. Also between watercooling, the thing is it varies in cooling capacity. You probably wouldn't see much difference unless you're running a realllly hot processor. If you're not it's good for quiet operation since you are effectively pumping heat to a single point to be cooled instead of trying to spread it all around like a heatsink. $300 kit = Possible much quieter, more customization, control H100 = Cheaper, Easier, smaller.[/QUOTE] I'll probably just get the H100 then since I also like the aesthetics of it compared to an air cooler. And do I NEED water cooling? Not exactly but its 100 bucks, my friend has one with an i5 and 35 idle and 50 at full load and I would love temps that low. I plan on doing a slight overclock to 4.0 ghz if all goes well so I would definitely love to have that instead of an air cooler.

Okay so I need help buying a laptop. [url]http://bit.ly/V7yi0I[/url] I live in Ireland so the price of that laptop would be 880 including shipping and that's with the exchange rates. Only thing I added onto it was 8gb of RAM because default was 4, and I chose no operating system standard because I think my college gives us free Windows 7. Laptop would mainly be used for games, internet, videos, and some editing. Don't care if it can't play everything on Ultra just want to be able to play ever game decently on medium. A laptop with a 630m in Ireland costs around 1500 euros, and this laptop has a 650m and is 880 so it sounds like a good deal? Let me know

You'd want to upgrade to the GTX 660m for 90 more tbh.

[QUOTE=Makol;37717319]You'd want to upgrade to the GTX 660m for 90 more tbh.[/QUOTE] Actually, with *that* 650M, he should be fine. The only real difference between that 650M and the 660M is the clock speed, and 100MHz isn't really worth $90. Now, if it were the 1GB or 512MB 650Ms (especially the DDR3 ones), I'd be inclined to agree with you.

How much of a difference is there between the i3 2100 and the intel i5 2400? I can switch to an i3 and get some other items or even a new graphics card.

[QUOTE=gman003-main;37717369]Actually, with *that* 650M, he should be fine. The only real difference between that 650M and the 660M is the clock speed, and 100MHz isn't really worth $90. Now, if it were the 1GB or 512MB 650Ms (especially the DDR3 ones), I'd be inclined to agree with you.[/QUOTE] Thanks for the reply's. So is this laptop good for the money then? I should be able to play every game decently yeah?

-snip I feel so dumb when I google the question after posting it here.

[QUOTE=Silverspar;37717441]How much of a difference is there between the i3 2100 and the intel i5 2400? I can switch to an i3 and get some other items or even a new graphics card.[/QUOTE] You could get a [url=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116775]3220[/url] for 15 dollars more. Of course that's with the promo code EMCNAJF78, which expires on the 20th.

[QUOTE=Over-Run;37717631]Thanks for the reply's. So is this laptop good for the money then? I should be able to play every game decently yeah?[/QUOTE] Should be, yeah. It's a notch below my laptop (which maxes out nearly everything), but also like $600 cheaper.

Great I think it's the laptop I'll get them as long as it's good

How hot should my CPU get up to? I have an Asrockz77 with an aftermarket fan on the CPU to get it cooler. When Idle runs about 38C and when playing something like Dayz runs about 52C. Do those numbers seem okay?

That's fine

Another question. Is there any way with dual screens to make it so say if you're gaming, the main screen doesn't minimize when say changing your pandora station or something on the other monitor?

Holy fucking shit. I was using my external enclosure to grab some data from my old (dead) laptop's hard drive. Seemed to be working fine, until it disconnected and started smoking. Like, physically smoking. I can still smell it. I actually burned myself a bit while unplugging it - the tip of the USB cable was hot enough that I think some of the plastic melted. The hard drive, though, wasn't really hot or noticeably damaged. My *suspicion* is that either the cable or the enclosure shorted itself, and that the hard drive itself is fine. Is this just wishful thinking? More urgently, is there anything I should be doing to keep any damage from becoming permanent? [editline]18th September 2012[/editline] Okay, reducing panic levels to "moderate" now. The smoke was definitely coming from the interface part of the enclosure, not the drive. The smell is definitely stronger there (I've removed the hard drive from the enclosure now). And, on closer examination, both the USB plug and socket seem to have been damaged, but there is no similar damage to the SATA ports inside. Finally, the sounds I recall sounded more like a drive spinning down, not the clicky noise I normally hear when a drive dies. I'm going to see if I can borrow someone's enclosure to see if the drive is at all recoverable.