The "Quick Questions that does not Deserve a Thread"...Thread. V3 - Hardware & Software

How do I change to AHCI mode? I installed in IDE mode on Windows 7, and I heard you go into registry and go to msachi but its not showing up for me? What can I do? Also what setting do I change in BIOS? There was 2 things that I could select AHCI for. Where can I get a Windows 8 ISO file? The version I downloaded from my College website is like a DreamSpark version or something? I can't seem to find a ISO download anywhere, I tried the Windows Update Assistant because apparently they allow you to download an ISO but it just tells me that I can't get it in my country.

[QUOTE=Shadaez;38724622]how is it a bit slower, that makes no sense[/QUOTE] I mean the one that's available in that store is 3.1 GHz, while this one is 3.4GHz.

[QUOTE=simkas;38725114]I mean the one that's available in that store is 3.1 GHz, while this one is 3.4GHz.[/QUOTE] You must be looking at the wrong one [url]http://ark.intel.com/products/65523/Intel-Core-i7-3770K-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-3_90-GHz[/url]

[QUOTE=waxrock;38725134]You must be looking at the wrong one [url]http://ark.intel.com/products/65523/Intel-Core-i7-3770K-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-3_90-GHz[/url][/QUOTE] [QUOTE=simkas;38725114]I mean the one that's [b][i]available in that store[/i][/b] is 3.1 GHz, while this one is 3.4GHz.[/QUOTE] I'm talking about from where I posted that picture at the top. [editline]6th December 2012[/editline] Actually no I looked there again and the 3770K they have is actually faster than the one I picked, so I'm actually gonna go for that one.

Whats the name of that program to use after formatting your PC, that downloads all your programs for you? Can't remember the name of it. EDIT Jesus Windows 8 is pissing me off already. When I booted from the CD it asked for my CD key which I put in, then it all installed fine. When it boots onto the desktop, I have the build number and all on the screen and in the user settings it says to activate windows. I enter the CD key and it's not working? What the fuck is going on I just bought this in a shop

[QUOTE=Over-Run;38725645]Whats the name of that program to use after formatting your PC, that downloads all your programs for you? Can't remember the name of it. EDIT Jesus Windows 8 is pissing me off already. When I booted from the CD it asked for my CD key which I put in, then it all installed fine. When it boots onto the desktop, I have the build number and all on the screen and in the user settings it says to activate windows. I enter the CD key and it's not working? What the fuck is going on I just bought this in a shop[/QUOTE] [url]http://ninite.com/[/url] Where did you download windows 8 from? I've just ordered an SSD too

I ended up not downloading it I just went and bought it for 40 in a shop, couldn't find an ISO version. Thanks for the link!

Fair enough, for anyone who does need it [url]https://www.mswos.com/[/url] Download link as the bottom of the page once you put in your info

[QUOTE=Naelstrom;38684191]Yes you can! To keep 4 bootable OS's on your system and switch between them easily: there's several solutions. The first is to install each OS to a separate drive and choose which to boot through your BIOS/UEFI, if you have bios your second option is to get a boot loader like linux's GRUB, if you have UEFI your next option would be to get a boot manager like rEFInd. That way you can have operating systems installed in secondary partitions and still boot to them via chainloading or direct load(UEFI). For your external drive question, yes you can boot from any external datasource. Most motherboards attempt to boot from usb before internal drives, if not you can easily change that in their BIOS.[/QUOTE] Just wanted to say this is a very well provided answer and comes off as genuinely helpful. Have a heart.

Whenever I play a game with a lower resolution than my monitor full screen, windows 8 always offsets everything by the pixel size of the game on my other monitor and it's really annoying, how do I stop this?

[QUOTE=Shadaez;38721283]from?[/QUOTE] Upgrading from Windows 7 32 bit. I know you have to back up all your files and that stuff, but I was mainly wondering if it was possible with an upgrade disc.

How long do I actually need to run a test when overclocking? Cause I've been at 4.2 ghz all day ( not at 100% load ) and just fine, no crashes or anything and prime95 ran great for 2+ hours. Temps are also the same still 35c on idle and 60c max on 100% load. [editline]6th December 2012[/editline] i5 3570k btw.

[QUOTE=Zerokateo;38734337]How long do I actually need to run a test when overclocking? Cause I've been at 4.2 ghz all day ( not at 100% load ) and just fine, no crashes or anything and prime95 ran great for 2+ hours. Temps are also the same still 35c on idle and 60c max on 100% load. [editline]6th December 2012[/editline] i5 3570k btw.[/QUOTE] I'm not sure what the minimum is, but I've heard 30min is normal, so two hours of prime95 is probably more than enough.

So I'm using [url=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817121084]this power supply[/url] with [url=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125410]this GPU[/url]. For some reason, when playing games such as GTAIV, SRTT, and APB (open world city environments) I get expectedly excellent performance but my entire system just shuts down after anywhere from 15 to 50 minutes of gameplay. (Note that recently I've been unable to turn it back on without switching the PSU off for a minute then turning it back on) I checked my temps on APB once, they usually doesn't break 70C, but I'm wondering if I may have a faulty power supply? Help me out, please.

Can anyone recommend me a new Hard Drive to get for Christmas? I'm looking for 1-2 TB of storage and only use my computer for gaming really. I was currently looking at the one below and wasn't sure if there was any better choices. Also want to keep the price up to a max of ~$150. [url]http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-ST2000DM001-Barracuda-3-5-Inch-Internal/dp/B005T3GRN2[/url]

Avoid seagate drives. Western Digital and Samsung are generally well supported and regarded in that field. Personally I can recommend the Spinpoint F3 but I don't know if it would still apply seeing as It's under seagate now [editline]7th December 2012[/editline] [QUOTE=rampageturke 2;38729577]Whenever I play a game with a lower resolution than my monitor full screen, windows 8 always offsets everything by the pixel size of the game on my other monitor and it's really annoying, how do I stop this?[/QUOTE] That's just something windows does, there is no way to prevent it iirc. The closest thing you could do is somehow get the application to run windowed without a border

My favorite are the WD Black series, nice fast drives with a 5 year warranty.

snip wrong thread

[QUOTE=Sie-Sveinhund;38741486]So I'm using [url=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817121084]this power supply[/url] with [url=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125410]this GPU[/url]. For some reason, when playing games such as GTAIV, SRTT, and APB (open world city environments) I get expectedly excellent performance but my entire system just shuts down after anywhere from 15 to 50 minutes of gameplay. (Note that recently I've been unable to turn it back on without switching the PSU off for a minute then turning it back on) I checked my temps on APB once, they usually doesn't break 70C, but I'm wondering if I may have a faulty power supply? Help me out, please.[/QUOTE] Yeah thats a REALLY shitty PSU, it probably can't handle that big of a load for very long and just shits itself, I would NOT use it anymore, next time it could die and take your whole PC with it.

[QUOTE=IpHa;38741704]My favorite are the WD Black series, nice fast drives with a 5 year warranty.[/QUOTE] Actually skimmed over those earlier, now I'm looking at [url]http://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Caviar-Internal-Desktop/dp/B0036Q7MV0/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1354911650&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=WD+Black+series[/url]. Also, any comments or concerns on getting Windows 8 System Builder 64b along with it?

[QUOTE=Deac;38741790]Actually skimmed over those earlier, now I'm looking at [url]http://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Caviar-Internal-Desktop/dp/B0036Q7MV0/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1354911650&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=WD+Black+series[/url]. Also, any comments or concerns on getting Windows 8 System Builder 64b along with it?[/QUOTE] You could save a hefty bit of money using an upgrade deal of some sort if possible But otherwise that seems fine

[QUOTE=FlubberNugget;38741895]You could save a hefty bit of money using an upgrade deal of some sort if possible But otherwise that seems fine[/QUOTE] I'll look for some, but thanks a lot for the info!

[QUOTE=Zerokateo;38741781]Yeah thats a REALLY shitty PSU, it probably can't handle that big of a load for very long and just shits itself, I would NOT use it anymore, next time it could die and take your whole PC with it.[/QUOTE] A second opinion like this is exactly what I needed to spur me into getting a better one. Any recommendations on a better model?

[QUOTE=Sie-Sveinhund;38743049]A second opinion like this is exactly what I needed to spur me into getting a better one. Any recommendations on a better model?[/QUOTE] Budget?

parents and grandparents keep asking me what i want for christmas and i cant think of anything except upgrading my pc and im pretty out of the loop for hardware i built my pc over 2 years ago and have a quad core intel 2.33ghz, 4gbs of ddr2 and a ati 5770. i wanna get some ddr3 because apparently ddr2 is oudated but my main thing is is what is a good card nowadays? i dont really have a budget persay since im not buying it

[QUOTE=Zerokateo;38743428]Budget?[/QUOTE] Preferably $120 or below but I'm sure I can bend for what it's worth. I think my GPU's rated for a 400 watt minimum but some room to expand wouldn't hurt.

[QUOTE=Sie-Sveinhund;38743721]Preferably $120 or below but I'm sure I can bend for what it's worth. I think my GPU's rated for a 400 watt minimum but some room to expand wouldn't hurt.[/QUOTE] Here's a nice semi modular for $105 [url]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151106[/url] Someone might be able to find something else for a better price but I can't find anything.

Ugh so confused. If I want to hook up old consoles to my monitor, what would I get? I'm looking into adapters and upscalers but I'm not sure which will work and which won't. I was looking at this. [URL]http://www.amazon.com/Mygica-SuperColor-Converter-Definition-Standalone/dp/B000XY6N5Y/ref=pd_sim_e_4[/URL] Last review was 2008 and said it won't work nowadays though. Thought that was just for TV cable though. Any ideas? And yes, I'm aware it probably won't be pretty, and yes I have an old TV I'm using for now. It just takes up more space than it's worth to have in here. I should really just go with a capture card, but I don't want to pay out the ass for 1080p...

I kinda want to make a thread for this but is there a term for the type of keyboard on a laptop? I need a new keyboard and I found a keyboard by Razer called the "[url=http://www.razerzone.com/gaming-keyboards-keypads/razer-arctosa]Arctosa[/url]". They call it "Hyperesponse" technology. To put my question simply, can anyone recommend me a gaming/good quality keyboard that feels like a laptop's keyboard that's under $50? Or at least tell me what the type of keyboard is called so I can do further research.

[QUOTE=ashxu;38752200]I kinda want to make a thread for this but is there a term for the type of keyboard on a laptop? I need a new keyboard and I found a keyboard by Razer called the "[url=http://www.razerzone.com/gaming-keyboards-keypads/razer-arctosa]Arctosa[/url]". They call it "Hyperesponse" technology. To put my question simply, can anyone recommend me a gaming/good quality keyboard that feels like a laptop's keyboard that's under $50? Or at least tell me what the type of keyboard is called so I can do further research.[/QUOTE] I suppose the term you're looking for is chiclet keys. Also, why would you want one? They're poor quality and generally flimsy.