The "Quick Questions that does not Deserve a Thread"...Thread. V3 - Hardware & Software

[QUOTE=Waterrmelonn;38850291]Would any of you consider a notebook cooler essential? I was about to buy one but it would take a shitload of space in my backpack.[/QUOTE] I got one and took it back, I guess it depends on your laptop. The one I bought only decreased it by about 2 degrees celcius - definitely wasn't worth the £20 pricetag.

I upgraded my router yesterday, installed a P5QPL-AM motherboard paired with an E7400. It's one of these: [url]http://www.ciao.co.uk/Productinformation/Fujitsu_Siemens_SCALEO_L__5806792[/url] Problem is that the PSU has a 20-pin power connector, and the motherboard is made for 24-pins. I tried putting it in with the topmost 4 pins open, and the LED on the motherboard turned green. When I hit the power button, fans started spinning and all that, but nothing really happened. Searching on google, I found out that there are many motherboards that work with the topmost 4 pins open, but all the posts I found saying this were really old. Do you guys think I can get it working by getting a 20-pin to 24-pin adapter? The problem might just be that the power supply doesn't have the juice to power this new hardware though. I figured the difference wouldn't be that big, but I'm going from a socket 478 Celeron to a socket 775 C2D. Edit: Forgot to mention. The wires from the front panel were a tad short, so I only wired the power button. Could this be causing trouble?

Your router is one of those?

[QUOTE=SataniX;38851740]Your router is one of those?[/QUOTE] Yeah, I run pfSense on it. [editline]16th December 2012[/editline] Turns out the PSU is a whopping 250W though. I don't want to be running that 24/7. Is this a good replacement? [url]http://www.komplett.no/k/ki.aspx?sku=657684[/url]

Quick question, is there somewhere I can legally get a Windows Vista 32bit install image? My parents fried the hard drive on their computer and can't find the recovery disk, but they still have the product key for it.

[QUOTE=RedBlade2021;38853984]Quick question, is there somewhere I can legally get a Windows Vista 32bit install image? My parents fried the hard drive on their computer and can't find the recovery disk, but they still have the product key for it.[/QUOTE] Well as long as you use your key you could really use an image from anywhere you can find it. But I'm curious why 32 bit

[QUOTE=RedBlade2021;38853984]Quick question, is there somewhere I can legally get a Windows Vista 32bit install image? My parents fried the hard drive on their computer and can't find the recovery disk, but they still have the product key for it.[/QUOTE] The links to the image from Microsoft's Digital River [url=http://en.community.dell.com/support-forums/software-os/w/microsoft_os/3317.2-3-microsoft-windows-vista-official-iso-download-links-digital-river.aspx]here[/url] still seem to work. All it requires is just a non-cracked activation key which makes it legal. [editline]16th December 2012[/editline] Grab the x86 version if you're confused as to which version you should pick. [editline]16th December 2012[/editline] Also ignore the Dell-specific stuff if the computer wasn't made by them

Dropped my keyboard the other day and the spacebar popped out. I decided to clean the ENTIRE keyboard but am still having issues with the spacebar: [url]http://imgur.com/a/wgJQn[/url] I've been having the problem where off center clicks don't register. Quick searches on Google told me it either has to do with that metal bar or these pieces of plastic that are under the spacebar. Well I checked and there are no plastic pieces that I can imagine fitting under there. So I assume it's the bar or something. The final pic in that album shows what happens if I push down on one side. An issue that never occurred before. I feel like a knob but I have no idea where this would go. I don't think it deserves a thread :v:

You tucked the edges of the metal bar under the plastic notches, right? The bar needs to be clipped into the bottom of the spacebar like this: [img]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-C9OYX3lmP7M/UM7pUL1EBsI/AAAAAAAAGsY/T1jIDW1jS-s/s400/IMG_20121217_044328.jpg[/img] And the ends of the bar need to tuck into the notches on the bottom of the board like this: [img]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-MPU22H0007o/UM7prWk3vyI/AAAAAAAAGsg/FmI59m-YTUg/s400/IMG_20121217_044506.jpg[/img] The bar is what spreads out the pressure applied onto the spacebar so that pressing down anywhere on the button will still cause the whole button to smoothly depress and hit the sensor, without it you have to push right on top of the sensor to get it to work and it will refuse to move downwards when pressed too far off to the side from the middle.

Windows Explorer. There's been a lot of arguing about the Auto Arrange function as it's pointless. I'd like to remove it if possible without downloading any .bat files like all other tutorials have to. Any way?

Whats a good wireless adapter that just works with Windows 7 so i don't have to deal with crappy drivers? I already got this piece of crap([url]http://www.zyxel.com/products_services/nwd2105.shtml?t=p[/url]) and it doesn't work because the drivers are utter SHIT.

[QUOTE=the_grul;38865681]Whats a good wireless adapter that just works with Windows 7 so i don't have to deal with crappy drivers? I already got this piece of crap([url]http://www.zyxel.com/products_services/nwd2105.shtml?t=p[/url]) and it doesn't work because the drivers are utter SHIT.[/QUOTE] Might want to say a budget because I have an ASUS N53 adapter and it's brilliant but it's a bit pricey.

[QUOTE=PyroCF;38865769]Might want to say a budget because I have an ASUS N53 adapter and it's brilliant but it's a bit pricey.[/QUOTE] It's pretty cheap actually. Does it need any drivers or do you just plug it in and let Windows fix the rest? [editline]17th December 2012[/editline] Is it this one? [url]http://www.edbpriser.dk/wi-fi-dongle/asus-usb-n53-id-6295173.aspx[/url]

[QUOTE=the_grul;38865794]It's pretty cheap actually. Does it need any drivers or do you just plug it in and let Windows fix the rest? [editline]17th December 2012[/editline] Is it this one? [url]http://www.edbpriser.dk/wi-fi-dongle/asus-usb-n53-id-6295173.aspx[/url][/QUOTE] that's the one, seems to have gone down in price now! Yeah I've just plugged it straight in and it's working fine.

So my friend ordered an i7-3770K for his PC which I built for him more than half a year ago. He wanted to upgrade from the i3-2100 that he had. Anyways the 3770K appears to be DOA, first time experiencing that. Putting it in made the PSU make a clicking noise, and after googling about a bit I couldn't find another explanation.

[QUOTE=lavacano;38860732]Well as long as you use your key you could really use an image from anywhere you can find it. But I'm curious why 32 bit[/QUOTE]Thanks. The product key we have is for that as its a Dell prebuilt. [Quote]The links to the image from Microsoft's Digital River here still seem to work. All it requires is just a non-cracked activation key which makes it legal. Edited: Grab the x86 version if you're confused as to which version you should pick. Edited: Also ignore the Dell-specific stuff if the computer wasn't made by them [/quote] This looks like it'll do the trick. Thanks!

what's the best desktop microphone i can get for a decent price (below £50 ish)

[QUOTE=RedBlade2021;38867674]Thanks. The product key we have is for that as its a Dell prebuilt. [/QUOTE] 32-bit keys work fine in 64-bit

[QUOTE=MarioInATopHat;38868666]what's the best desktop microphone i can get for a decent price (below £50 ish)[/QUOTE] Sell you my Blue Snowball for £30

[QUOTE=mblunk;38863061]You tucked the edges of the metal bar under the plastic notches, right? The bar needs to be clipped into the bottom of the spacebar like this: And the ends of the bar need to tuck into the notches on the bottom of the board like this: The bar is what spreads out the pressure applied onto the spacebar so that pressing down anywhere on the button will still cause the whole button to smoothly depress and hit the sensor, without it you have to push right on top of the sensor to get it to work and it will refuse to move downwards when pressed too far off to the side from the middle.[/QUOTE] Thanks a ton! Your post made me realize how I had to put it in. I thought I could put it in one piece at a time but it wasn't until your post that it occurred it was one piece. Once I clipped on the metal piece, I angled it into the hooks and it worked perfectly.

Haven't built an intel tower in a while; Is LGA 1155 the consumer standard for mid-high end gaming PCs now? Last time I built a PC it was LGA 1366 I think, but that isn't even an option on newegg anymore :o

[QUOTE=-SAH-;38872084]Haven't built an intel tower in a while; Is LGA 1155 the consumer standard for mid-high end gaming PCs now? Last time I built a PC it was LGA 1366 I think, but that isn't even an option on newegg anymore :o[/QUOTE] Yeah, but it's going to change for the next generation.

Every time I change themes, it creates a replica of the theme I want to select called Untitled Theme. Can someone please tell me what the hell is going on? I am on Windows 7 Home Premium 64-Bit

[QUOTE=Megaman1811;38872724]Every time I change themes, it creates a replica of the theme I want to select called Untitled Theme. Can someone please tell me what the hell is going on? I am on Windows 7 Home Premium 64-Bit[/QUOTE] It just does that if you modify the theme at all, like changing window colors and all that.

[QUOTE=Shadaez;38873515]It just does that if you modify the theme at all, like changing window colors and all that.[/QUOTE] I know but it happens whenever I SELECT a theme

Have a question. Recently I upgrade my computer (Mobo, Memory, Processor, SSD ect.) The SSD I got is only around 120 GB so I wanted to use my old harddrive for storage, which I am currently. After installing Windows 8 on my SSD, I formatted my old drive which had Windows 7 on it. However, whenever I boot up the computer, it asks me which OS I would like to start, WIndows 8 or 7. The other drive is wiped clean, so Windows 7 is gone. I'm assuming there some data on the new drive causing this but I can't be sure. Any help would be much appreciated.

Hey guys, I have an Intel DX79SR motherboard and I was wondering if the mother board has good quality components. The reason being is that I am kinda paranoid about the VRM solution that is used on this board, sure it is designed by Intel, though I still want some peace of mind about my purchase. The Asus Sabertooth has a 10 VRMs I think while the Intel DX79SR has only 8 VRMs with a heatsink on top.

[QUOTE=rsa1988;38877252]Hey guys, I have an Intel DX79SR motherboard and I was wondering if the mother board has good quality components. The reason being is that I am kinda paranoid about the VRM solution that is used on this board, sure it is designed by Intel, though I still want some peace of mind about my purchase. The Asus Sabertooth has a 10 VRMs I think while the Intel DX79SR has only 8 VRMs with a heatsink on top.[/QUOTE] I'm assuming you can't overclock with Intel boards, so the extra 2 VRMs are probably just there for overhead.

There is the possibility for overclocking on this Intel board. So either way even if there is only eight VRMs I think that I should be good. I don't overclock just fyi. There is one good thing though, it is not a dell motherboard so that means something.

[QUOTE=N7;38875261]Have a question. Recently I upgrade my computer (Mobo, Memory, Processor, SSD ect.) The SSD I got is only around 120 GB so I wanted to use my old harddrive for storage, which I am currently. After installing Windows 8 on my SSD, I formatted my old drive which had Windows 7 on it. However, whenever I boot up the computer, it asks me which OS I would like to start, WIndows 8 or 7. The other drive is wiped clean, so Windows 7 is gone. I'm assuming there some data on the new drive causing this but I can't be sure. Any help would be much appreciated.[/QUOTE] Perhaps you didn't format the 100mb boot partition on the w7 hdd. Go into the windows disk and fixmbr or something like that.