The "Quick Questions that does not Deserve a Thread"...Thread. V3 - Hardware & Software

[QUOTE=NuclearAnnhilation;38972641]i want a new graphics card as i feel my 5770 is on the way out and i cant really run new games on max anymore do i get the gtx 650 or 660? the 650 is like $170 for the 2gb version, has amazing reviews and everyone says you can run new games max and get 50-60 fps reliably but then theres the appeal of the 660 but i dont wanna spend $300 [editline]25th December 2012[/editline] also running on a 1920x1080[/QUOTE] I would never buy a <=X[B]50[/B] card, always X[B]60[/B] and above since they are designed for gaming.

[QUOTE=NuclearAnnhilation;38972641]i want a new graphics card as i feel my 5770 is on the way out and i cant really run new games on max anymore do i get the gtx 650 or 660? the 650 is like $170 for the 2gb version, has amazing reviews and everyone says you can run new games max and get 50-60 fps reliably but then theres the appeal of the 660 but i dont wanna spend $300 [editline]25th December 2012[/editline] also running on a 1920x1080[/QUOTE] 7850 2gb or 7870. Nvidia is terrible with price/performance right now.

[QUOTE=TrulliLulli;38970183]I'm aware that it may be faulty, but I don't want to spend money on another hard drive when the real problem might be the GPU, after all without a GPU the hard drive works perfectly and I could send it back for an RMA if the problem persists with a new graphics card. I'm dreading that if I go and buy a new graphics card the clicking will come back and it's actually a motherboard problem or something.[/QUOTE] I get your worries, but I don't see how the graphics card can be causing the harddisk to make clicking noises. You also have to realize that in safe mode, windows has much less to load on startup (meaning much less strain on the disk), and may not be accessing the bad parts of the drive at all. If you spend some time in safe mode, running programs and other things, I'm sure the clicking nose will come around. You said the harddisk was new though. Can't you just RMA it? The part about graphically demanding games could be the same as with safe mode. Less intensive games normally take up less space on the harddisk, and don't use stuff like streaming to load textures and models in real time, meaning less strain on the disk.

^ what he said, GPU don't magically make your HDD stop reading properly. [QUOTE=TrulliLulli;38970183]I'm aware that it may be faulty, but I don't want to spend money on another hard drive when the real problem might be the GPU, after all without a GPU the hard drive works perfectly and I could send it back for an RMA if the problem persists with a new graphics card. I'm dreading that if I go and buy a new graphics card the clicking will come back and it's actually a motherboard problem or something.[/QUOTE] Run a chkdsk /f

Does an ATX12V psu fit all atx cases? I have a micro atx motherboard and i ordered a CORSAIR Builder Series CX600 600W ATX12V. I searched around on google and I just get different answers.

[QUOTE=Crpto2007;38972869]Does an ATX12V psu fit all atx cases? I have a micro atx motherboard and i ordered a CORSAIR Builder Series CX600 600W ATX12V. I searched around on google and I just get different answers.[/QUOTE] No, not all cases, it'll work with the motherboard though. What case is it / prebuilt? If it's not an odd case and looks like a standard PC, it'll most likely work.

Well I have an HP pavilion a1700n computer case.

I've worked on one of those, the PSU is all standard, should work just fine.

[QUOTE=NuclearAnnhilation;38972641]i want a new graphics card as i feel my 5770 is on the way out and i cant really run new games on max anymore do i get the gtx 650 or 660? the 650 is like $170 for the 2gb version, has amazing reviews and everyone says you can run new games max and get 50-60 fps reliably but then theres the appeal of the 660 but i dont wanna spend $300 [editline]25th December 2012[/editline] also running on a 1920x1080[/QUOTE] From what I've looked into (and what everyone else here is saying) the 660 is the best if you want power. That being said, if you want to spend in the $100-200 range, you'd be looking at the following cards; GTX 650, GTX 650 Ti, or the Radeon 7770. The Radeon is close enough to the price of the GTX 650 to make the budget differences inconsequential, and from everything I've heard the 7770 is a superior product. That being said, if you want to spend $30-40 more you could get a GTX 650 Ti, which from what I've seen is better than the Radeon 7770 in pretty much everything. So if you're willing to spend money, the 660 is your best bet. If you want the cheapest GPU possible while still upgrading, I'd recommend the Radeon 7770. If you want the best "budget" GPU under $300, I'd recommend the GTX 650 Ti.

In that case, what's the best 27" 1080p 120Hz monitor for the money? (In GBP and from Scan/Overclockers/Amazon)

Looking for a gpu with a $550-$600 budget upgrading from a MSI Twin Frozr III GTX 570 650w PSU Intel Ivy Bridge 3770k i7 CPU

[QUOTE=zezsniper;38973970]Looking for a gpu with a $550-$600 budget upgrading from a MSI Twin Frozr III GTX 570 650w PSU Intel Ivy Bridge 3770k i7 CPU[/QUOTE] 7970 GHz Edition if you would like the factory overclock, if you're okay with voiding the warranty and overclocking it yourself then the regular 7970 will do you fine.

-snip-

Currently own a Razer Lycosa and it's a steaming pile of shit. Looking to get a mechanical keyboard because I hear they're pretty sweet, can anyone recommend me anything?

[QUOTE=HolyCrapAWalrus;38972270]Pretty sure all 120Hz screens do 3D because of how the frames are displayed, but I'm not 100% on that. The BenQ 120Hz screen is supposedly pretty nice, but it's 1920x1080 and a 24". Haven't seen too many 2560x1440 120Hz screens, it's either one or the other most of the time.[/QUOTE] I think that's not true. All 120hz screens can theoretically do proper 3D, but I'm pretty sure even a korean panel at 120hz won't register right for 3D vision.

Cooler Master Quickfire TK, Cooler Master Storm Trigger, Corsair Vengeance K90, Rosewill Illuminated RK9100 are all good if you're into backlighting, if not then the Monoprice mechanical keyboard is only like $55 and is pretty nice from what I've heard [editline]25th December 2012[/editline] [QUOTE=Brt5470;38975240]I think that's not true. All 120hz screens can theoretically do proper 3D, but I'm pretty sure even a korean panel at 120hz won't register right for 3D vision.[/QUOTE] There are Korean monitors that do 120Hz regularly? I thought only some could do it from overclocking but it was risky.

Anyone know of a tray or something I can use for a small wireless mouse and keyboard on? I considered getting a Phantom Lapboard but $130 is a bit pricey.

What is the best video card I can get for like, $250, shipping to Argentina included? Preferably nvidia since I've always used those but beggars aren't choosers. Since shit is 2.5x it's normal price here I might as well see if I can get someone in the US to get me a card from Newegg or similar and ship it to me.

How much would it cost to ship a video card? If it's around $50 you could get a 2gb 7850 or maybe if you can stretch the budget a bit a 7870.

[QUOTE=Makol;38975325]Anyone know of a tray or something I can use for a small wireless mouse and keyboard on? I considered getting a Phantom Lapboard but $130 is a bit pricey.[/QUOTE] Get one of those pillow-hybrid-tray things like [URL="http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10239077/"]this one[/URL], I used one for my laptop once and it was real comfortable. Of course that doesn't work if you're putting the tray on a solid surface... but in that case you would use the solid surface. What do you plan on doing with it? [editline]26th December 2012[/editline] [QUOTE=HolyCrapAWalrus;38975676]How much would it cost to ship a video card? If it's around $50 you could get a 2gb 7850 or maybe if you can stretch the budget a bit a 7870.[/QUOTE] that's what i'm wondering really :v: Seems like it's around $52 for the USPS "Priority mail medium box" w/$200 insurance unless a card can fit in a small one (which is about $20) but then it doesn't get tracking or insurance

I'm confused by my motherboard and case manuals. I'm trying to connect the front pannel stuff to my motherboard. Are there easy to read diagrams on this?

I'm looking for a good standing USB mic. A mic that isn't a headset that I can use with my PC and that has a mute button on it. I'm gonna start using some nice quality headphones instead of speakers and I want to still be able to hear and talk at the same time but without the poor quality of a headset. So yeah, basically a USB desktop mic on Amazon.

[QUOTE=latin_geek;38975716]Get one of those pillow-hybrid-tray things like [URL="http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10239077/"]this one[/URL], I used one for my laptop once and it was real comfortable. Of course that doesn't work if you're putting the tray on a solid surface... but in that case you would use the solid surface. What do you plan on doing with it? [/QUOTE] I found my spare TV and decided to put it next to my bed and hook up my laptop to it. I need something I can use a small keyboard, something like Apple's wireless keyboard, and a smallish mouse on.

Is 39 celsius at idle and 70-75 celsius at load a bad temperature for a 7950?

[QUOTE=FullStreak12;38975812]I'm confused by my motherboard and case manuals. I'm trying to connect the front pannel stuff to my motherboard. Are there easy to read diagrams on this?[/QUOTE] Your motherboard, if it's new, should have came with something like these (not sure what they're called, for sakes of clarity I'll call them Jigs): [img]http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQ2J3lMBRDZs21JgH51XEKV68bT2YiSvt22VgNdZNN7LQk88b0knpXVp8HjLA[/img] They are meant to make connecting your front panel shit a whole lot easier, just match up the names on the front-panel wires to the names on the white Jig and stick them on the corresponding Jig pins. Then stick the whole Jig onto your motherboard's front panel connections (rather than referencing your manual for each pin). [img]http://img.tomshardware.com/us/2002/09/18/building_your_own_pc/panel_leitungen.jpg[/img] (Note: This photo is just what the motherboard's front panel connection place looks like, a Jig is not included) Don't worry much about them being wrong, you can easily fiddle with them till everything works correctly.

Haven't seen any recent motherboards come with those.

A couple of board I've had listed them as optional accessories but I've never had a board that's included them. It's not like I buy cheap boards either. I believe Asus calls is "Q-Connect".

[QUOTE=Zerokateo;38972237]I need a free fucking HDD clone program. All I want to do is click 1 fucking button and have it be done, none of this clonezilla bullshit trying to figure out why the fuck everything is wrong.[/QUOTE] You could hire an infinite amount of monkeys to type on keyboards that only have 1's and 0's. They'd get it eventually, right?

sup bros i built a new PC yesterday, everything is working fine - but I get horizontal flickering static lines across my screen when I play a game now I think the problem may be that the DVI to VGA adapter I was given is utter shit, but when I try and plug VGA directly in to my mobo the display doesn't turn on wtf is happening thanks

[QUOTE=SataniX;38978177]Haven't seen any recent motherboards come with those.[/QUOTE] but they SHOULD, it makes things so much easier. Screw those little cables that are lodged in between the GPU and your case. [editline]26th December 2012[/editline] [QUOTE=Noss;38978422]sup bros i built a new PC yesterday, everything is working fine - but I get horizontal flickering static lines across my screen when I play a game now I think the problem may be that the DVI to VGA adapter I was given is utter shit, but when I try and plug VGA directly in to my mobo the display doesn't turn on wtf is happening thanks[/QUOTE] get a better shielded VGA cable, or make sure it's not loose so that the shield is properly grounded