[QUOTE=RoboChimp;52775401]Ah that's good, I'm thinking about updating the firmware to 2.0, but I'm a bit lazy. Anyway the GH5 is a pretty great camera for the price, considering you're getting 10-bit internal recording 4K@ 60p and HD at 180FPS,[/QUOTE]
Besides AF, the new All Intra formats which aren't a huge deal to me. New Anamorphic. 5k full sensor video
[QUOTE=meppers;52776165]do not buy a bargain-bin microsd card reader for the sd card you need to plug in once a year.
[IMG]https://i.imgur.com/ottCVIb.jpg[/IMG]
can this be un-fucked? i have the ifixit tool kit but will the pin just break off?[/QUOTE]
well I tried my best to straighten it. the end of the pin is folded into itself and it is impossible to return it to the 90 degree bend it needs to be at.
I tested out the port and windows instantly throws out USB power surge warnings.
[QUOTE=RoboChimp;52775401]Ah that's good, I'm thinking about updating the firmware to 2.0, but I'm a bit lazy. Anyway the GH5 is a pretty great camera for the price, considering you're getting 10-bit internal recording 4K@ 60p and HD at 180FPS,[/QUOTE]
You're gonna want a fully charged battery to do the firmware update, as an FYI.
Also the GH5 can only do 10-bit internal recording at 4K 30p, not 60p. You can do 60p if you use an external HDMI recorder that can support 10-bit 4K 60p recording.
[QUOTE=meppers;52776935]well I tried my best to straighten it. the end of the pin is folded into itself and it is impossible to return it to the 90 degree bend it needs to be at.
I tested out the port and windows instantly throws out USB power surge warnings.[/QUOTE]
Might be possible to buy a new socket and swap it unless it's the type cast in plastic.
USB 3.0 is a bit of a bitch with its 4 extra fine pitch pins though
guess who's getting fiber optic within the next 2 months
so yea, today some dudes came early to our house and routed the fiber optic from the sewers, they say the network should work by the end of the year.
So for some reason, my desktop randomly rebooted. When I looked at the Event Viewer, it looks like it rebooted because Windows asked Microsoft for the time and it somehow crashed something in the Kernel.
I've since turned off that feature.
[QUOTE=garychencool;52777228]So for some reason, my desktop randomly rebooted. When I looked at the Event Viewer, it looks like it rebooted because Windows asked Microsoft for the time and it somehow crashed something in the Kernel.
I've since turned off that feature.[/QUOTE]
If you disabled NTP, your computer's clock is eventually going to drift really bad.
Honestly I'd just change w32tm to pool.ntp.org as the peer, tend to have less problems in general with that.
[QUOTE=Levelog;52777256]Honestly I'd just change w32tm to pool.ntp.org as the peer, tend to have less problems in general with that.[/QUOTE]
Pool has some trash machines on it, it's useful for finding reliable time servers close to you though, if you manually search the database.
I'ye been having nothing but issues since the Ryzen upgrade. USB devices just don't work half the time, wifi dongle stopped working, no longer showed in device manager, unplugged mouse to try dongle there, mouse no longer recognised.
Computers are great. USB tethering doesn't work because my phone isn't recognised either.
Reboot usually fixes it but it's a pain in the ass.
[QUOTE=helifreak;52777318]I'ye been having nothing but issues since the Ryzen upgrade. USB devices just don't work half the time, wifi dongle stopped working, no longer showed in device manager, unplugged mouse to try dongle there, mouse no longer recognised.
Computers are great. USB tethering doesn't work because my phone isn't recognised either.
Reboot usually fixes it but it's a pain in the ass.[/QUOTE]
I haven't really had any issues with my Ryzen build lately, except for that random reboot which was probably Window's fault. Maybe the only annoying part was when my keyboards backlighting would stop working, but that's probably the keyboard's fault and Logitech's software being crap.
[QUOTE=Kiwi;52777322]Early adopter issues. Although that could just be a bad motherboard. Get it RMA’D or swap.[/QUOTE]
That doesn't sound like anything Ryzen would cause. I haven't personally experienced anything like that nor have I heard of anyone else experiencing anything like that.
Sounds more like he needs a good 'ole Windows reinstall, and if that doesn't work, then yeah RMA the motherboard.
Protip: When removing a heatsink backplate that uses adhesive don't use a razer knife to get it off. Instead use a blow dryer and a flathead screwdriver.
I got awfully confused when my new heatsink came in the mail and my PC wouldn't boot. I had a spare motherboard thankfully.
[QUOTE=darksoul69;52777368]Protip: When removing a heatsink backplate that uses adhesive don't use a razer knife to get it off. Instead use a blow dryer and a flathead screwdriver.
I got awfully confused when my new heatsink came in the mail and my PC wouldn't boot. I had a spare motherboard thankfully.[/QUOTE]
Or just use a plastic prying tool :v: maybe also mild heat if absolutely necessary. Certainly not a screwdriver though, you're just asking to fuck up some SMD components with that.
I wonder if helifreak happens to be using the same Mobo. Really doesn't seem like anything a CPU would cause.
[QUOTE=Kiwi;52777423]Just money.[/QUOTE]
I think you just summarized life
[QUOTE=garychencool;52777011]You're gonna want a fully charged battery to do the firmware update, as an FYI.
Also the GH5 can only do 10-bit internal recording at 4K 30p, not 60p. You can do 60p if you use an external HDMI recorder that can support 10-bit 4K 60p recording.[/QUOTE]
Also can I say how confusing the firmware update process is? I spent a good half hour finding a guide to do it. Couldn't find it in my manual.
[QUOTE=colincooke;52777462]I think you just summarized life[/QUOTE]
I got ryzen because it was cheaper for more performance than Intel
[QUOTE=Dr. Evilcop;52777429]I wonder if helifreak happens to be using the same Mobo. Really doesn't seem like anything a CPU would cause.[/QUOTE]
Same brand and chipset but different boards, ASUS Crosshair VI Hero vs my ASUS PRIME X370-PRO. Had planned an OS reinstall this weekend but other shit came up and it's probably not going to happen until next week at this rate.
Two motherboards bricked this has to be some kind of record.
Bricking a motherboard has to be some sort of an achivement, the things are glorified backplanes and manufacturers are sticking redundant BIOS in em now.
Too bad BIOS chips aren't user-swappable anymore, that was a fun feature in older ones.
Both the BIOS chips on my last board died from old age, circa 2011 but the chips were soldered.
[QUOTE=meppers;52776935]I tested out the port and windows instantly throws out USB power surge warnings.[/QUOTE]
That's the 5V pin that's sticking out.
When you tried to plug in a device, the shield of the connector caused a short between +5V and GND.
Literally the worst pin on the connector to have wrecked.
[QUOTE=latin_geek;52777692]Bricking a motherboard has to be some sort of an achivement, the things are glorified backplanes and manufacturers are sticking redundant BIOS in em now.
Too bad BIOS chips aren't user-swappable anymore, that was a fun feature in older ones.[/QUOTE]
No the best part was when it booted into recovery mode and it overwrote the recovery chip and BIOS with the new image then BAM black screen. Post code FF :D
I honestly don't know if I caused the problem or if this was going to happen either way since this motherboard was in storage for a while. I mean it posted right...
I checked the back for any obvious damage but didn't see any. The first board had a cut mark.
[QUOTE=Savage Octane;52774116]Hey fellas, thinking of building a new pc and I want to go an uncommon route- Dual CPU Xeons. Is this still feasible with available boards and chips? would it still be able to game well?[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=gman003-main;52774176]It's doable but there is absolutely no reason for it. Nobody optimizes games for multi-socket, so it would barely be faster than a single i7, while being much more expensive and really limiting your board options.
Source: I gamed on a dual-Xeon computer for five years. I got the machine for free, which is about the only situation where gaming on a dual-Xeon computer is reasonable.[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=Dr. Evilcop;52774245]Just get a Threadripper and call it a day
[editline].[/editline]
Honestly going the "uncommon route" with computer stuff in general is usually a bad idea. It'll seem cool on paper but after you're done paying for everything you'll find that it actually kinda sucks ass because no one bothers supporting the uncommon route.[/QUOTE]
I got really bored on ebay and was tired of my i7-930 about a month ago, I saw a X5660 for $24.13 buy it now with free shipping and just figured what the hell. My old i7 lost the silicone lottery and the like $300 pile of crap never hit 4ghz not to mention that the benchmarks it put out were far lower what other people seemed to get. If you're looking for a dirt cheap used setup or a home server, 1366 is the way to go. If you have DDR3 laying around from old builds it's almost a no brainer. ECC DDR3 is also like $50 for 6x4gb sticks so if you need plenty of ram for a server you're basically set.
Straight off booting, it beat my overclocked i7-930 and ran at ambient temps which were so low I thought the sensors were broken since I've never seen anything run that cool. My Cinebench score nearly doubled from the overclocked i7 after hitting 4.4ghz and would have kept going except my GA-X58A-UD5 is a rev.1 board and is basically a low end UD3 with half the power phases that the higher end boards do. It gets extremely unstable any further and starts to turn off fully the further I push voltages even at this clock. I imagine I'm hitting a wall of either my PSU or motherboard since I'm still a decent bit under Intel Spec on everything. I managed to get a [url=https://i.imgur.com/Dj3rvhi.png]1001cb[/url] but people have managed much much more with these and the more expensive sku's. The single thread performance isn't incredible as you'd expect from a 8 year old hex core and is comparable to Ivy/Sandy Bridge but the hilarious part is it's pretty close to the stock Ryzens for like 1/10th the price. It's still far far better than what I had though.
Overclocking is fairly straight forward. Other than forcing all of the ram settings manually, just the normal stuff like turning off EIST and thermal protections then using LLC helped the overclock. It was basically just jam voltage into the vcore and qpi/vtt/imc until Intel Spec, raise core multi all the way and set the QPI to around 2x memory clocks. Shove base clock into it until it doesn't boot then massage those around until they're in a place you feel comfortable and the system is stable. Touching any other voltage setting other than turning all of them off of auto to default did nothing more than seem to make it more unstable. If you've never overclocked before, it's a great platform to play with and you're pretty unlikely to hurt it although the IMC is much weaker on the 32nm hexcores than the i7's. I had to mod my BIOS and update the CPU microcode since Gigabyte didn't update the microcode to a late enough one that fixed issues with the QPI multipliers and some other issues. But most of the higher end Asus stuff and newer board revisions have all of the latest microcode updates in the latest bios revisions. It's not too hard to patch these in, all the tools are out there to do this.
There are a lot of choices when it comes to dual socket 1366 motherboards and there's a solid few in the ATX form factor ranging from the Asus/EVGA SR2 offerings to server oriented boards that have PCI-E for much cheaper like the [url=http://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Micro-X8DTL-iF-LGA-1366-ATX-Motherboard-with-2-x-Xeon-E5620-I-O-Shield-/272879880273]Super Micro X8DTL-iF[/url] which even comes with two free quad cores. Here's an example I just found on google [url]http://forums.lowco2525.com/threads/building-a-monster.229/[/url]
If you want to get creative, there's a lot more interesting E-ATX server boards with 12 slots of ram. I'm sure some larger cases could easily support these if you chop out drive cages, ignore backplates and maybe use PCI-E extenders to mount the graphics card elsewhere if it doesn't line up. There's also another really interesting option, there were a ton of workstation computers that included these motherboards that are being sold for around $200 even with a old junk Quadro in them. There was also the Mac Pro which was sold with single and dual socket 1366 "CPU trays", these are insanely desirable and people often charge tons of money for them but you can sometimes find them on craigslist getting basically thrown away.
Most of the dual socket boards don't allow overclocking from what I recall but there's still a ton of 1366 hold outs and plenty of resources about what hardware works and what doesn't. I'd grab a ebay X5675 as cheap as possible and try to find a cheap 1366 motherboard locally at a computer recycler or pay for a good one off ebay but beware that they still run up to nearly new prices. I don't think I would go dual socket on something you plan to game on since losing overclocking is a pretty hard hit and there are some chipset differences that probably don't make them as good for gaming. However, if you video encode or do any sort of multithread intense work that you need done as cheap as possible that's exactly what you want.
My largest complaint about 1366 is that there's not going to be a usb3 header, manufacturers shoved in a bunch of garbage into the smaller amount of pci-e lanes like upto 3 or more extra sata controllers all of which should be disabled and AHCI isn't supported natively which requires it to boot to a AHCI bios after your first bios boots. My boot times are astronomical because I have e-sata enabled and it goes from bios to ahci bios then to a e-sata boot thing. Ignore the Sata 3 since it's not supported by the Intel X58 chipset and the Marvell Sata 3 controller is slower than the integrated Sata 2 and will cause microstuttering in games if you use it.
[QUOTE=garychencool;52777011]You're gonna want a fully charged battery to do the firmware update, as an FYI.
Also the GH5 can only do 10-bit internal recording at 4K 30p, not 60p. You can do 60p if you use an external HDMI recorder that can support 10-bit 4K 60p recording.[/QUOTE]Yeah I know, but thanks anyway.
I thought of this a couple of minutes ago, and I still enjoy how horrible it is:
I like my Ethernet cables how I like my hurricanes: [sp]twisted[/sp]
[QUOTE=latin_geek;52777692]Bricking a motherboard has to be some sort of an achivement, the things are glorified backplanes and manufacturers are sticking redundant BIOS in em now.
Too bad BIOS chips aren't user-swappable anymore, that was a fun feature in older ones.[/QUOTE]
Friend actually managed to fry a fancy ass (very not cheap) motherboard by accidentally shorting one of the chassis fan headers, just flicked off and never came back
Nobody knows why since that really shouldn't be enough to kill a mobo, the guy at the store just wrote it off as a defect and RMA'd it
[QUOTE=slayer3032;52778003]I got really bored on ebay and was tired of my i7-930 about a month ago, I saw a X5660 for $24.13 buy it now with free shipping and just figured what the hell. My old i7 lost the silicone lottery and the like $300 pile of crap never hit 4ghz not to mention that the benchmarks it put out were far lower what other people seemed to get. If you're looking for a dirt cheap used setup or a home server, 1366 is the way to go. If you have DDR3 laying around from old builds it's almost a no brainer. ECC DDR3 is also like $50 for 6x4gb sticks so if you need plenty of ram for a server you're basically set.
Straight off booting, it beat my overclocked i7-930 and ran at ambient temps which were so low I thought the sensors were broken since I've never seen anything run that cool. My Cinebench score nearly doubled from the overclocked i7 after hitting 4.4ghz and would have kept going except my GA-X58A-UD5 is a rev.1 board and is basically a low end UD3 with half the power phases that the higher end boards do. It gets extremely unstable any further and starts to turn off fully the further I push voltages even at this clock. I imagine I'm hitting a wall of either my PSU or motherboard since I'm still a decent bit under Intel Spec on everything. I managed to get a [url=https://i.imgur.com/Dj3rvhi.png]1001cb[/url] but people have managed much much more with these and the more expensive sku's.
Overclocking is fairly straight forward. Other than forcing all of the ram settings manually, just the normal stuff like turning off EIST and thermal protections then using LLC helped the overclock. It was basically just jam voltage into the vcore and qpi/vtt/imc until Intel Spec, raise core multi all the way and set the QPI to around 2x memory clocks. Shove base clock into it until it doesn't boot then massage those around until they're in a place you feel comfortable and the system is stable. Touching any other voltage setting other than turning all of them off of auto to default did nothing more than seem to make it more unstable. If you've never overclocked before, it's a great platform to play with and you're pretty unlikely to hurt it although the IMC is much weaker on the 32nm hexcores than the i7's. I had to mod my BIOS and update the CPU microcode since Gigabyte didn't update the microcode to a late enough one that fixed issues with the QPI multipliers and some other issues. But most of the higher end Asus stuff and newer board revisions have all of the latest microcode updates in the latest bios revisions. It's not too hard to patch these in, all the tools are out there to do this.
There are a lot of choices when it comes to dual socket 1366 motherboards and there's a solid few in the ATX form factor ranging from the Asus/EVGA SR2 offerings to server oriented boards that have PCI-E for much cheaper like the [url=http://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Micro-X8DTL-iF-LGA-1366-ATX-Motherboard-with-2-x-Xeon-E5620-I-O-Shield-/272879880273]Super Micro X8DTL-iF[/url] which even comes with two free quad cores. Here's an example I just found on google [url]http://forums.lowco2525.com/threads/building-a-monster.229/[/url]
If you want to get creative, there's a lot more interesting E-ATX server boards with 12 slots of ram. I'm sure some larger cases could easily support these if you chop out drive cages, ignore backplates and maybe use PCI-E extenders to mount the graphics card elsewhere if it doesn't line up. There's also another really interesting option, there were a ton of workstation computers that included these motherboards that are being sold for around $200 even with a old junk Quadro in them. There was also the Mac Pro which was sold with single and dual socket 1366 "CPU trays", these are insanely desirable and people often charge tons of money for them but you can sometimes find them on craigslist getting basically thrown away.
Most of the dual socket boards don't allow overclocking from what I recall but there's still a ton of 1366 hold outs and plenty of resources about what hardware works and what doesn't. I'd grab a ebay X5675 as cheap as possible and try to find a cheap 1366 motherboard locally at a computer recycler or pay for a good one off ebay but beware that they still run up to nearly new prices. I don't think I would go dual socket on something you plan to game on since losing overclocking is a pretty hard hit and there are some chipset differences that probably don't make them as good for gaming. However, if you video encode or do any sort of multithread intense work that you need done as cheap as possible that's exactly what you want.
My largest complaint about 1366 is that there's not going to be a usb3 header, manufacturers shoved in a bunch of garbage into the smaller amount of pci-e lanes like upto 3 or more extra sata controllers all of which should be disabled and AHCI isn't supported natively which requires it to boot to a AHCI bios after your first bios boots. My boot times are astronomical because I have e-sata enabled and it goes from bios to ahci bios then to a e-sata boot thing. Ignore the Sata 3 since it's not supported by the Intel X58 chipset and the Marvell Sata 3 controller is slower than the integrated Sata 2 and will cause microstuttering in games if you use it.[/QUOTE]
I guess it comes down to how valuable your time is to spend so much effort on older hardware that is more readily and easily beaten by modern stuff.
Also,
"The single thread performance isn't incredible as you'd expect from a 8 year old hex core and is comparable to Ivy/Sandy Bridge but the hilarious part is it's pretty close to the stock Ryzens for like 1/10th the price. It's still far far better than what I had though."
Are we talking IPC or stock performance, because my Ryzen 7 at 3.8 blows away my 3770k, even in ST. Then again my 3770k never quite performed how it should.
[QUOTE=Brt5470;52778467]I guess it comes down to how valuable your time is to spend so much effort on older hardware that is more readily and easily beaten by modern stuff.
Also,
"The single thread performance isn't incredible as you'd expect from a 8 year old hex core and is comparable to Ivy/Sandy Bridge but the hilarious part is it's pretty close to the stock Ryzens for like 1/10th the price. It's still far far better than what I had though."
Are we talking IPC or stock performance, because my Ryzen 7 at 3.8 blows away my 3770k, even in ST. Then again my 3770k never quite performed how it should.[/QUOTE]
Slayer is Pentium's prodige. It took me months to convince him SSDs were "cool"...
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