[QUOTE=glitchvid;52830301]Golds are burn tested before leaving the factory, have a higher rated MTBF, double the spec'd duty cycle, and a lower read error rate, 5 year warranty.
The black drives also have the 5 year warranty, but none of the other things apply, on the 4TB model they're spec'd 1MB/s faster.
From WD itself Black drives are usually a good bit more expensive. I prefer to get the WD golds, since it's cheaper for better reliability. HGST also has good options.
[editline]28th October 2017[/editline]
There's also other specific firmware features that might be important to you, such as TLER (mostly a RAID reliability feature). Golds also boast some vibration resistance features, and variable head fly height, mostly for that reliability.[/QUOTE]So is a gold more likely to keep my data safe than a black?
[QUOTE=RoboChimp;52830389]So is a gold more likely to keep my data safe than a black?[/QUOTE]
Statically yeah. The extended burn-in test they do just means you'll get less DOA and early death drives, which is nice for the average dude, but mainly it's really nice for data centers ordering whole pallets of them and installing them into SANs.
TLER is basically useless unless you have the drive in RAID.
The vibration resistance features are always a plus, but it's mostly useful in high disk density situations, and is a big reason Seagate did terrible on Blackblaze's reliability statistics, since the early chassis weren't padded.
Generally I prefer the higher tolerances golds have to meet, and they've been cheeper for me to get than blacks. (I also run 8 disks in my case, so vibration tolerance is appreciated)
[editline]28th October 2017[/editline]
That's not to say Black drives aren't reliable, they are. The oldest drive in my system is an 8 year old WD Black drive.
[editline]28th October 2017[/editline]
Also, when buying from an e-tailor, make sure it's a new drive, retail. Lots of companies resell newish or unused OEM WD drives, but they won't have the 5 year warranty from WD, or it'll be already counting down.
In the US at least, make sure when buying from Amazon that the seller is infact Amazon, or the supplier is WD verified.
WD is usually pretty good about it, but it's always good to have your paperwork in order.
[QUOTE=LordCrypto;52829629]disadvantages:
no easy cash deposit
advantages:
app that doesn't suck
support experience that doesn't suck
[editline]27th October 2017[/editline]
the chip's worked for like a year lol[/QUOTE]
So does simple just not have very good atm support? The very few times I've needed cash deposit, I just found one of the various atm networks supported by my credit union and dropped cash into an envelope, dollars are in my account next day.
[QUOTE=WastedJamacan;52830533]So does simple just not have very good atm support? The very few times I've needed cash deposit, I just found one of the various atm networks supported by my credit union and dropped cash into an envelope, dollars are in my account next day.[/QUOTE]
[url]https://www.simple.com/help/articles/getting-started/cash[/url]
It's kind of the one downside to Simple, but I almost never use cash for anything if I can avoid it so it doesn't bother me too much
[QUOTE=Lyokanthrope;52830556][url]https://www.simple.com/help/articles/getting-started/cash[/url]
It's kind of the one downside to Simple, but I almost never use cash for anything if I can avoid it so it doesn't bother me too much[/QUOTE]
Good to know. Essentially I'd have to retain my cu in order to deposit into simple, so not really worth it for my situation, as a landlord who may take cash payments for rent. Plus, since my cu is relatively limited in membership, the customer support is actually pretty good.
[QUOTE=RoboChimp;52830389]So is a gold more likely to keep my data safe than a black?[/QUOTE]
A backup will always keep your data safe. Assuming you're using some sort of resiliency, a better drive just is less headaches.
[QUOTE=glitchvid;52830301]Golds are burn tested before leaving the factory, have a higher rated MTBF, double the spec'd duty cycle, and a lower read error rate, 5 year warranty.
The black drives also have the 5 year warranty, but none of the other things apply, on the 4TB model they're spec'd 1MB/s faster.
From WD itself Black drives are usually a good bit more expensive. I prefer to get the WD golds, since it's cheaper for better reliability. HGST also has good options.
[editline]28th October 2017[/editline]
There's also other specific firmware features that might be important to you, such as TLER (mostly a RAID reliability feature). Golds also boast some vibration resistance features, and variable head fly height, mostly for that reliability.[/QUOTE]
Been using a lot of Golds in my Synologies lately and can confirm they're solid as fuck
[QUOTE=WastedJamacan;52830566]Good to know. Essentially I'd have to retain my cu in order to deposit into simple, so not really worth it for my situation, as a landlord who may take cash payments for rent. Plus, since my cu is relatively limited in membership, the customer support is actually pretty good.[/QUOTE]
plus i've heard bad things about using simple for any sort of business-y money receiving
[QUOTE=tratzzz;52830041]Ran a full read test overnight, found no problems.
next stop, maybe it is the cables?[/QUOTE]
It's not unheard of, and as the saying goes: replace the cheapest component first
What if the cheapest component in my build is the case? :v:
Time for a new case then :v:
[QUOTE=Del91;52831396]What if the cheapest component in my build is the case? :v:[/QUOTE]
What is your case made out of? Cardboard?
I think my case might be the most expensive singular part of my build :v:
My GPU might have been more new but that's the advantage of buying review samples off people
I think the only thing cheaper than my phanteks case was my 212 evo. Otherwise the rest of my build is composed of parts >$80
I just started working with MS Hyper-V for the first time, fresh server install and not a single VM will start.
Why the flying hell is there not a check in place for the localservices user? Just wasted a couple of hours to find that. :disgust:
Back to level 1 hypervisiors it is.
I may have just done the worst ghetto-ass subwoofer install ever.
I mean, it probably isn't the worst, but I didn't even screw the +12v and -12v properly in. It is a really big gauge wire for the amp at least.
The input is taken from the top speaker in the BMW just where the wire goes to the speaker, didn't even tap in, just wrapped over the speaker connector, the input wire just dangling from the headliner. I didn't connect a remote wire, only a switch to turn it on/off. I did it all outside, with an old swiss army knife thingy that had pliers and some wires. Worth it for this night though, probably going to try to make it a bit (or a ton) better tomorrow.
[QUOTE=garychencool;52831416]What is your case made out of? Cardboard?[/QUOTE]
It's an nzxt h440, I think I paid like $90 for it
So I just received my warranty wheel from Logitech and installed the software for it, then let it scan for games on my system
[t]https://imgkk.com/i/zf1a.jpg[/t]
i was planning on playing forza but i guess inertial marquee tool drifting is ok too
[QUOTE=Levelog;52831434]I think my case might be the most expensive singular part of my build :v:
My GPU might have been more new but that's the advantage of buying review samples off people[/QUOTE]
My GPU is the most expensive part of my desktop build, it was like.. 1/3 of the cost (after taxes, etc.), cheapest part was the D15 cooler if you ignore the free hard drives I had laying around.
[QUOTE=glitchvid;52830410]Statically yeah. The extended burn-in test they do just means you'll get less DOA and early death drives, which is nice for the average dude, but mainly it's really nice for data centers ordering whole pallets of them and installing them into SANs.
TLER is basically useless unless you have the drive in RAID.
The vibration resistance features are always a plus, but it's mostly useful in high disk density situations, and is a big reason Seagate did terrible on Blackblaze's reliability statistics, since the early chassis weren't padded.
Generally I prefer the higher tolerances golds have to meet, and they've been cheeper for me to get than blacks. (I also run 8 disks in my case, so vibration tolerance is appreciated)
[editline]28th October 2017[/editline]
That's not to say Black drives aren't reliable, they are. The oldest drive in my system is an 8 year old WD Black drive.
[editline]28th October 2017[/editline]
Also, when buying from an e-tailor, make sure it's a new drive, retail. Lots of companies resell newish or unused OEM WD drives, but they won't have the 5 year warranty from WD, or it'll be already counting down.
In the US at least, make sure when buying from Amazon that the seller is infact Amazon, or the supplier is WD verified.
WD is usually pretty good about it, but it's always good to have your paperwork in order.[/QUOTE]Cheers mate!
[editline]29th October 2017[/editline]
[QUOTE=Brt5470;52830770]A backup will always keep your data safe. Assuming you're using some sort of resiliency, a better drive just is less headaches.[/QUOTE]True, my backup machine is running out of space, so is my PC. My PC is WD blacks, backup machine is WD reds.
Did you know NTFS is pseudo case sensitive?
[t]https://www.helifreak.club/image/20171029024039653.png[/t]
Internally Windows is just upper casing every single filename to find the real path so that's fun.
[t]https://www.helifreak.club/image/20171029024701156.png[/t]
So what we learnt from this is you can use WSL to hide files from normies.
[QUOTE=Del91;52831396]What if the cheapest component in my build is the case? :v:[/QUOTE]
I've had [URL="https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147107"]this case[/URL] for almost 6 years. I paid $60 for it, it's been more expensive ever since :v:
The front panel (top) headphone jack died in a year or 2, I emailed rosewill and they shipped me a whole new front I/O unit no questions asked. I used the old one to add USB2 ports to a 20 year old case.
[QUOTE=helifreak;52832155]Did you know NTFS is pseudo case sensitive?
[t]https://www.helifreak.club/image/20171029024039653.png[/t]
Internally Windows is just upper casing every single filename to find the real path so that's fun.
[t]https://www.helifreak.club/image/20171029024701156.png[/t]
So what we learnt from this is you can use WSL to hide files from normies.[/QUOTE]
Of course, but it breaks DOS compatibility, so we can't have that. :suicide:
[QUOTE=glitchvid;52830410]Statically yeah. The extended burn-in test they do just means you'll get less DOA and early death drives, which is nice for the average dude, but mainly it's really nice for data centers ordering whole pallets of them and installing them into SANs.
TLER is basically useless unless you have the drive in RAID.
The vibration resistance features are always a plus, but it's mostly useful in high disk density situations, and is a big reason Seagate did terrible on Blackblaze's reliability statistics, since the early chassis weren't padded.
Generally I prefer the higher tolerances golds have to meet, and they've been cheeper for me to get than blacks. (I also run 8 disks in my case, so vibration tolerance is appreciated)
[editline]28th October 2017[/editline]
That's not to say Black drives aren't reliable, they are. The oldest drive in my system is an 8 year old WD Black drive.
[editline]28th October 2017[/editline]
Also, when buying from an e-tailor, make sure it's a new drive, retail. Lots of companies resell newish or unused OEM WD drives, but they won't have the 5 year warranty from WD, or it'll be already counting down.
In the US at least, make sure when buying from Amazon that the seller is infact Amazon, or the supplier is WD verified.
WD is usually pretty good about it, but it's always good to have your paperwork in order.[/QUOTE]
Hmm good to know. I checked the prices and WD Gold is cheaper than WD Black, so I'll probably go get Gold instead of Black in future purchases.
The 750MhHz PIII in my one ThinkPad decided to randomly drop to 600MHz. Even CPU-ID now says it's a 600MHz pentium III when I have a picture from a few months ago showing at as 750MHz. The fuck?
Edit: NVM, intel speedstep is just stuck on battery saving because the battery is dead.
I have a YT video with 12 counts of copyright claims.
that's what I got for making a terrible mix of terrible music.
Learned something yesterday. Sister's boyfriend runs ads on social media, and the ad he was running hit the cap on the contract so he had to take it down, but the site he uses for managing those ads will not let you on via mobile. I thought it was just a "if the browser looks for a mobile version, deny" but requesting desktop site didn't work either. However, I turned the VPN on on my phone, and it worked totally fine. With my limited knowledge on this, I wonder if they're essentially blocking traffic from cell towers.
Not cell towers, but possibly by blocking IPs from mobile ISPs
[QUOTE=B!N4RY;52833430]Not cell towers, but possibly by blocking IPs from mobile ISPs[/QUOTE]
Makes sense. In any case, I definitely opened up his means of working lol
Hot damn, I just have been peeved a lot for the vertical AND horizontal black bars on youtube on 21:9 videos, like, I get a shitton less used screenspace due to it.
I was just watching a [URL="https://youtu.be/vy9h3SR7ZZY?t=9m4s"]CorridorDigital/Sam and Niko[/URL] video and it turns out it is a youtube endcard limitation. That's fucking retarded. Is it really that hard for somebody at youtube to do something useful?
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