Is there anyone here who's good with soldering? At the moment I'm trying to replace a few leaking capacitors on a Cisco switch. While I was able to get one of the dead capacitors out, I'm literally unable to clean the holes or open up a hole to insert the new capacitor in. I've tried to push a paperclip in and heating it up with my soldering iron but it's not getting hot enough. I do have a desoldering pump, but it's not strong enough to suck all the crap out of the holes sadly enough. I didn't have a huge problem replacing capacitors before but the problem here is that the holes are much smaller in diameter. I was thinking of drilling them out but I don't think I can get a drill bit that's this thin.
Really would appreciate some help as I'm getting desperate, and running my network off a 100mbit switch that I have as a backup is quite a pain :v:
Get a quality soldering iron that can get hot enough and [I]keep[/I] the temperature hot enough. Soldering irons that plug straight into the mains are generally not great. Insert the capacitor while the solder is hot; you don't really need to clear the hole as long the solder is liquid.
Other than that you can try pre-heating the board (not too much or you'll start frying things) so it doesn't sink all the heat you put into it so easily.
I guess it's my soldering iron too that's playing a role in the whole story yeah. It's a 10 euro piece of crap that plugs straight into the mains. I do have a narrow tip installed on it but even that is not enough to get the solder inside the holes properly heated up. For now I had to call it quits as I'm only getting more and more frustrated and I'm afraid of fucking the board up. I think I'm just going to purchase a few <1mm drills and just drill the holes out tomorrow.
Melt and mix in some leaded solder to make things easier. Make sure to use a little flux. Once the solder is melted just stick the capacitor through the hole without taking the iron off the solder.
I wouldn't recommend drilling the holes, there's way too much room for error that'll fuck up the board doing that.
Yeah, for desoldering shit off a mainboard it's an all-of-the-above kind of situation
- Clean your iron clean before soldering by wiping it on a wet sponge or paper towel or copper wool
- Use some standalone flux
- Tin your iron (apply a bit of fresh solder) immediately before use - let the solder stuck to the iron transfer the heat, not the iron itself
- Melt some leaded solder into the joint to lower the temperature
- If you can't melt the joint within around 5 seconds, let it cool and think again while your iron warms back up - otherwise you'll peel off the pad
- For melting bigger things, use a bigger tip and higher temperature.
- If possible, heat sink components you're soldering to by clamping them to metal.
- Solder wick needs to have some flux and melted solder in it to work. Tin your iron before and after use
- You don't have to actually get the capacitor out of the hole. Just snip it off and solder the new one to the leads that stick out (or the pads / traces). Electronics repair isn't a beauty contest, just slap it together, hot glue it down and call it a day.
[QUOTE=Brt5470;52567566]Tried doing it manual in my BIOS. still no dice.
Back to DOCP 2666[/QUOTE]
What memory do you have and how many DIMMs are installed?
I have the same board with 2x Corsair CMK16GX4M2B3600C18 8GB sticks and they run at 3200, I backed them off to 2933 for better timings though.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/mL07FwV.png[/img]
HP - Hell's Printers™
[editline]13th August 2017[/editline]
oH MY GOD I LITERALLY JUST READDED THE PRINTER AND IT STILL WON'T PRINT
Send help
[QUOTE=garychencool;52567918]Those are neat features but I still don't really see myself on using it. Currently it's the 500GB WD Blue drive I use to direct all exports of media (photos, videos, etc.) so I suppose leaving it as ReFS would be fine. There's only ever a single copy of something on it anyways, and from there I'd copy it to somewhere else later. It's also the drive for uploading stuff to YouTube, etc.[/QUOTE]
I'm just explaining what ReFS is really for. It's a stopgap for resilient filesystems on Windows without switching to a different FS like ZFS or something. Use NTFS for all your regular work drives. I use ReFS for archival and where I want to know I'm reading good data. My 4x4TB "RAID10" in my system now for editing and workloads is NTFS still.
[editline]13th August 2017[/editline]
[QUOTE=AugustBurnsRed;52569822]What memory do you have and how many DIMMs are installed?
I have the same board with 2x Corsair CMK16GX4M2B3600C18 8GB sticks and they run at 3200, I backed them off to 2933 for better timings though.[/QUOTE]
They are LPX 16GB dimms. I think they are dual rank, which is probably my issue. Though I thought I heard people running these at 2933.
[url]https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820236033[/url]
I somehow managed to fry an AGP port on a computer I was going to use in a retro build, damn it.
[QUOTE=Brt5470;52570393]I'm just explaining what ReFS is really for. It's a stopgap for resilient filesystems on Windows without switching to a different FS like ZFS or something. Use NTFS for all your regular work drives. I use ReFS for archival and where I want to know I'm reading good data. My 4x4TB "RAID10" in my system now for editing and workloads is NTFS still.
[editline]13th August 2017[/editline]
They are LPX 16GB dimms. I think they are dual rank, which is probably my issue. Though I thought I heard people running these at 2933.
[url]https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820236033[/url][/QUOTE]
To my knowledge, the only Corsair sticks that work are 3600mHz sets running at 3200. Everything else uses hynix dies. Why they are worse than the samsung B-dies for Ryzen I don't know.
"The Boot Configuration Data for your PC is missing or contains errors."
asdsfGJHDSGKKF[B]DSGLKJHFKLSJDGL
[/B]Everything of importance is backed up elsewhere, and in case it's not just Windows randomly fucking up but actually my SSD that's dying it should still be covered by warranty, but even then it's still ass
Edit:
Running the "Windows Automatic Repair" thing does nothing and just tells me it's fucked, trying to restore it manually via CMD does nothing either and just tells me "The file or folder has been damaged and can not be read"
Mounting the SSD in Linux works just fine, everything's there, and everything's accessible. What the hell is going on?
Edit:
chkdsk reports "Windows has scanned the file system and found no problems. No further action is required."
SFC reports "Verification 100% complete. Windows Resource Protection did not find any integrity violations."
rebuildbcd still gives me "The file or folder has been damaged and can not be read"
Edit:
Fuck it, reinstalling Windows
EDIT AGAIN:
Alright I'm very confused right now. Disconnected all of my HDD's, and began reinstalling Windows. Installation went fine, and after it finished, I shut the PC down, restarted it again, everything was fine, I shut it down, and I connected my HDD's again. "The Boot Configuration Data for your PC is missing or contains errors.". (Should be noted that none of the two HDD's contain any old Wndows installations, or even traces of them). I disconnected the bottom HDD (Seagate Barracuda 3TB), the problem persisted. I disconnected the top one (Western Digital Black 2TB), and poof, the problem disappeared. I then reconnected the bottom one, no problem, reconnected the top one, and while it didn't just throw a message in my face refusing to boot, it did come up with the "press any key within 10 seconds to cancel chkdsk scan".
So I'm guessing there's something wrong with my WD Black? But it makes zero sense to me, all it contains is games and shit, what the fuck does it have to do with Windows? I just formatted my SSD for no reason, great
I've had issues before where one of my data drives got marked as a boot drive, then whenever the computer tries to boot it tries to boot off of there while there's no BCD on the drive at all.
[QUOTE=FalconKrunch;52571267]I've had issues before where one of my data drives got marked as a boot drive, then whenever the computer tries to boot it tries to boot off of there while there's no BCD on the drive at all.[/QUOTE]
Eyup. Just checked it in Disk manager, the WD is in fact marked as a boot drive. This whole ordeal made me kinda paranoid so I'm in the middle of backing my games up, will try to to unmark it as soon as that's done and come back with results. I mean, I feel like a complete retard for not checking this before anything else, but still, what the fuck Microsoft. This setup of drives has worked flawlessly for over a year, and suddenly (must've happened last night), out of the blue Windows suddenly decides that it's a good idea to boot off a nonsense location?
[editline]14th August 2017[/editline]
Alright, just unchecked it. It still keeps complaining about CHKDSK needing to scan it, though.
I let CHKDSK scan through it, which took like ten seconds, and now it shuts up about it. So yeah, problem solved, now I just need to spend the rest of my day off setting up Windows to my liking
[QUOTE=Kiwi;52571410]Enable cloudflare on website again to get faster caching.
Web server now causes 301 x25gazillion times and can no longer be reached.
Turns off cloudflare.[/QUOTE]
Did you have ssl redirection on your server but only cloudflare side ssl? If so, cloudflare tries to fetch the http site from the server, which leads to infinite redirects. Easily fixed by turning on transport security.
Looks like Amazon blew through its whole stock, since now they're no longer listing any.
Existing orders are in [URL="https://s.gvid.me/s/2017/08/14/7uM556.png"]limbo[/URL].
Ordered a Vega 64 at 1605 local time, they were already sold out.
Maybe I'm completely in the wrong place to ask this question, but I guess the people here are the most experienced.
Lets say I have a project that has 3 different servers that run the same stateless API server. Type of the executable shouldn't matter. There's tools like GitLab CI, but it doesn't seem to serve the purpose of deploying 1 project to multiple servers. When searching for information on this subject, I find that people recommend to hard-code all the servers in a .gitlab-ci.yml file, which is something I don't want to do.
How do you guys handle deployment of certain applications? The programming section of FP doesn't seem to be the right place imo, as it's mostly games which don't get deployed in such a way.
[QUOTE=Kiwi;52571410]Enable cloudflare on website again to get faster caching.
Web server now causes 301 x25gazillion times and can no longer be reached.
Turns off cloudflare.[/QUOTE]
Calling all benjojos :v:
Hoooly shit Vega sold out in a millisecond what the hell.
All I want is Vega 56.
Also I acquired a Sun Netra x4270 over the weekend. 16 gigs ddr3, 2 xeons, 4 300gb SAS 10k drives, 2 extra 4-port gigabit nics.
Its fukin [I]nice.[/I] I'm trying to wrastle with its RAID interface right now, but there is a frustrating lack of documentation available to... [I]third party owners.[/I]
[QUOTE=WastedJamacan;52571699]Ordered a Vega 64 at 1605 local time, they were already sold out.[/QUOTE]
And I paused, too, to verify all my information was right.
Now I'm left wondering if I had just clicked through without checking my info if I could have gotten one...
I feel kinda "ehhh" about Vega. The 56 seems pretty great, ~1070 performance for ~70USD less.
The 64 though, 1080 performance for less, sure, but it needs like a nuclear power plant to run.
Then again they offer A LOT more in terms of raw performance than the 1070 and 1080, so I guess we'll just have to wait and see. I remember the launch of the 7970, slower than a 680, a couple of years later and it's almost as fast a GTX 780
Wait for Vega 😂😂😂😂😂😂
Looks like I made a good call by ordering a 1080 Ti last week. Vega looks great but reviews don't have it quite dethroning the Ti. So for a couple bucks more than a Vega 64 Liquid's list price, I get a slightly more powerful GPU that I can actually get my hands on. The price on the Ti has even started to go up, a little bit.
I think Vega looks pretty alright. It's decently performant without being more expensive. However I will say, the Water 64 has gotta be the worst of the bunch. In terms of price, it's only a small fraction cheaper than a 1080 Ti but the Ti pretty much outclasses it, and you don't have to deal with the extra pain and organisation of a built-in water loop. Air 64 looks pretty okay, comparable to a 1080 at a comparable price point, with the opportunity to be cheaper with a little bit of time. I think with discounts, Air 64 will look pretty nice. 56 also looks alright. Competitive price, competitive performance. I see no issue with that. The only catch with Vega as a whole is that it runs hot and draws a good chunk of power. But, well, Nvidia did too not to long ago, then they invested heavily into power-efficiency and it paid off. I suspect AMD will soon too, depending on how their income goes.
Overall I really don't see how it's [b]bad[/b] at all. It's just not the best. No problem with that.
[QUOTE=wingless;52572265]Air 64 looks pretty okay, comparable to a 1080 at a comparable price point, with the opportunity to be cheaper with a little bit of time. [/QUOTE]
Isn't it cheaper already? The cheapest 1080 you can buy here costs ~5700SEK (if you buy it from a reputable reseller, there's a shady Danish one that ships to Sweden selling it for ~5.3K, but I've heard a lot of bad things about them so ehhh), whereas the 64 air will only cost ~5000SEK (If you buy it from that same reputable reseller)
My biggest concern is still power consumption and the apparently extremely loud reference fan, third party coolers will of course fix the latter, but cards from XFX, Sapphire etc. tend to be a bit more expensive than the reference ones, closing the gap to the 1080 even more
[video=youtube;hWhlqJU8gdk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hWhlqJU8gdk[/video]
Not entirely sure about this one Techmoan, £150 for something with very questionable printing quality and costs more than a new 2DS.
[QUOTE=Rixxz2;52572334]Isn't it cheaper already? The cheapest 1080 you can buy here costs ~5700SEK (if you buy it from a reputable reseller, there's a shady Danish one that ships to Sweden selling it for ~5.3K, but I've heard a lot of bad things about them so ehhh), whereas the 64 air will only cost ~5000SEK (If you buy it from that same reputable reseller)
My biggest concern is still power consumption and the apparently extremely loud reference fan, third party coolers will of course fix the latter, but cards from XFX, Sapphire etc. tend to be a bit more expensive than the reference ones, closing the gap to the 1080 even more[/QUOTE]
Gonna vary wherever you are. Here in AU you can get a 1080 from anywhere between $830 to $970. 1080 Ti ranges from $1150 to $1400. Air 64 is $899 and Liquid 64 is $1099. All AUD. Haven't seen AU 56 prices pop up yet.
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