[QUOTE=DormitoryRapier;52593182]What do you guys think about the Logitech romer-g switches? I want to get a G413 since it's fairly cheap but people say it feels really mushy when you bottom it out. The other option is a G610 but it's more pricey, especially the one with MX Reds.[/QUOTE]
don't ever get romer-g switches, they're fucking horrible
Romer-G is literally worse than rubber dome, like how can they fuck it up that badly
but hey, at least they have RGB!!
Romer-G is the mega mush.
I want mx brown but they're too expensive so I want kalih browns
Yay or nay
kalihs are fine
gateron browns are (I think) cheaper than cherries and people claim that they're much better than cherries
disclaimer: I have cherry browns and am quite satisfied with them
After several months of using my G610 with MX Reds, I gotta say I love using the keyboard and it's just a breeze to type on for me. The media controls work, the backlighting is white and not horrific and the volume scrubber is so useful.
[QUOTE=INH;52597005]I want mx brown but they're too expensive so I want kalih browns
Yay or nay[/QUOTE]
Go Gateron
Are there any GSX96 layout boards which support an ISO enter group?
[QUOTE=Chubbs;52615034]Are there any GSX96 layout boards which support an ISO enter group?[/QUOTE]
Most do, I know RS96, Duck Lightsaver, B.fake 96 and ZZ96 do. Problem is getting one of those, the 96-key layout is still pretty uncommon.
[url]https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/6w4vy4/krh_lsv3light_saver_v3_vea_tx75realforce_keycaps/[/url]
Here's a guy in Korea selling an unbuilt Lightsaver V3 kit....for $950+shipping :v:
[editline]26th August 2017[/editline]
If you want something somewhat similar but not exactly, there's always the Leopold FC980 series, winkeyless sell a 75% + numpad called the b.mini EX and there's currently a few $10-15 ISO 1800s listed on ebay under "G80-18xx"
When you're getting a $950 Lightsaver kit I'm not sure that shipping from Korea is that much of a worry :v:
am I the only one who dislikes the PuLSE SA keycap set? The glossiness and SA profile doesn't fit the colorscheme imo.
So I discovered something awesome. The Ultratec Minicom line of TTY devices.
Minicom II (MX Cherry Blacks)
[img]http://i.imgur.com/DSvFYhM.png[/img]
Minicom IV (Alps)
[img]http://i.imgur.com/Oj1alEg.png[/img]
I was wondering how hard it would be to get these keyboards working as a USB or PS/2 device. I'd assume it'd involve an arduino interpreting, but I'm happy regardless. I want to know because these devices are the perfect size for the Raspberry Pi portable I've been theorycrafting for months, especially the Minicom II.
Here's a picture of the PCB from the Minicom IV. I'd imgine the II is very similar, just less advanced.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/eAq8hf8.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/LOTPEXe.jpg[/img]
I've had my K70 rapidfire keyboard for over a month and I still smash the keys all the way down out of habit. The actuation point on this keyboard is insane though
[media]https://youtu.be/Gfyr1CVlkag[/media]
Please help, why is this happening. No damage to guts underneath...
[QUOTE=Smoot;52645148][media]https://youtu.be/Gfyr1CVlkag[/media]
Please help, why is this happening. No damage to guts underneath...[/QUOTE]
stabs come loose
[QUOTE=Smoot;52645148][media]https://youtu.be/Gfyr1CVlkag[/media]
Please help, why is this happening. No damage to guts underneath...[/QUOTE]
Is it a cherry or costar stabilizer? I had a similar problem, and it was because the plastic inserts fell out of the key itself, so I just put a small bit of scotch tape on the top of the plastic insert, and put it back into my key, so it would fit in there snug.
[QUOTE=Xyrec;52647387]Is it a cherry or costar stabilizer? I had a similar problem, and it was because the plastic inserts fell out of the key itself, so I just put a small bit of scotch tape on the top of the plastic insert, and put it back into my key, so it would fit in there snug.[/QUOTE]
This worked great, thank you.
[img]http://lodyb.com/i/P9170068.jpg[/img]
I think i want to switch to the hhkb full time and use the ergodox as a `macro keys and stuff` system
Anyone know of a good way to accomplish this in the least janky way?
[B]Review: Aukey KM-G6 104-key mechanical keyboard[/B]
[t]https://i.imgur.com/laciKIV.jpg[/t]
I got this keyboard for $30 on sale. I was only after a nice MX Blue-like typing feel with backlit keys. I didn't really care that the backlight was rainbow LEDs and had all sorts of patterns. It was just the cheapest full-size mechanical keyboard available.
I was very pleasantly surprised by the build quality. I was expecting a cheap plasticy piece of junk barely more stable than a laptop keyboard, but this thing has a very solid metal frame. I can easily type on it all day without it feeling flimsy at all. Key layout is perfectly normal, nothing funky or weird. The Fn keys are reasonably well laid out. I like that volume is on the f9-f11 block, closest to the Fn key itself, so one-handed volume changes are simple and easy. F5-F8 holds the media playback keys, while F1-F4 is generic application launches. Nifty features are a Windows Key lock (Fn+Windows), and a total keyboard lock (Fn+F12), which can come in handy if you're stepping away from the keyboard for a while, or if you plan on putting something on the keyboard for whatever reason.
The lighting system is far more amusing than I thought it would be. Fn+Insert toggles the different modes, which include breathing and wave motion modes, as well as on or off. Additionally, it has a couple of reactive modes, which can be either a "breadcrumbs" mode where each key you press lights up for a second or so before fading out, and a "ripple" mode, where each keypress sends a wave across the whole keyboard. It's good fun. There's also some "gaming" backlight modes, which only light certain keys based on games. There's one for Counter Strike, LOL, and DOTA, for example.
I rather like the Outemu Blue switches, which are clones of the Cherry MX Blue, of course. They're a little bit stiffer and somewhat louder than the genuine article, but I find the feel really pleasing. I can type on this for hours without feeling fatigued, though the noise can get a bit much sometimes.
Overall Score: 9/10. For the price, you can't beat it. Way better value than my Blackwidow Ultimate 2016.
Pros:
1: Super solid construction
2: Excellent key feel
3: Amusing backlight will entertain for minutes at a time
4: Price
Cons:
1: No Macro functions
2: Fn key combos aren't backlit.
3: No separate LED for the Windows Lock or Keyboard Lock combos despite being doubleshot. This can confuse you if you left it locked and forgot.
My cons are really nitpicks at best, as for the price you really cannot get a better keyboard, even at list price of $40.
Here's a link to the Amazon page for this keyboard. (non-referral)[url]http://a.co/bZoHcD5[/url]
Hey guys. I'm not much of a mechanical keyboard enthusiast, but I do love the feel of them. I had a question that might be common...
What's the procedure for cleaning your keyboard? I have a, I think, a 2013 Blackwidow Ultimate. I'm currently moving and would like to clean out all of my gear before setting it all back up. Some of the keys have accumulated the usual scruff and as you can imagine, dust and some crumbs are in the tray.
[QUOTE=255;52690277][t]http://lodyb.com/i/P9170068.jpg[/t]
I think i want to switch to the hhkb full time and use the ergodox as a `macro keys and stuff` system
Anyone know of a good way to accomplish this in the least janky way?[/QUOTE]
[t]http://lodyb.com/i/1505766732b08592c5-0671-4103-88b5-f98d265c6d54.jpg[/t]
I did it
(￣▽￣)ノ
[QUOTE=Lerlth;52693816]Hey guys. I'm not much of a mechanical keyboard enthusiast, but I do love the feel of them. I had a question that might be common...
What's the procedure for cleaning your keyboard? I have a, I think, a 2013 Blackwidow Ultimate. I'm currently moving and would like to clean out all of my gear before setting it all back up. Some of the keys have accumulated the usual scruff and as you can imagine, dust and some crumbs are in the tray.[/QUOTE]
Keycaps - warm soapy water. Don't use more potent solvents than soapy water on keycaps unless you know for a fact it won't fuck them. For example Filco keys are coated with something that causes them to discolour a crap shade of blotchy white when exposed to isopropyl.
Case/Plate - blow all the crumbs and shit off the plate with an air line. Then disassemble and clean in warm soapy water.
Switches - usually not needed, but if they're sticky you can use either a damp qtip or a straw to get a VERY tiny amount of water in there. If it's still sticky after then give it some isopropyl.
PCB - Don't bother, if it works then it works.
Also NEVER let acetone/MEK/ect near a keyboard. You'll just ruin your keycaps and switch stems/housings.
[editline]18th September 2017[/editline]
[QUOTE=255;52694246][t]http://lodyb.com/i/1505766732b08592c5-0671-4103-88b5-f98d265c6d54.jpg[/t]
I did it
(￣▽￣)ノ[/QUOTE]
didn't think i'd see someone with a shigecat here
Hey does anyone know if there's a way to get at the firmware of this Aukey keyboard? Trying to find a way to reprogram the lighting a bit more directly than just on and off.
[QUOTE=Trekintosh;52704281]Hey does anyone know if there's a way to get at the firmware of this Aukey keyboard? Trying to find a way to reprogram the lighting a bit more directly than just on and off.[/QUOTE]
Get a programmer for whatever controller they're using I guess.
[editline]21st September 2017[/editline]
Does anyone know somewhere with Kailh BOX switches in stock that doesn't want a million quid to ship them to the UK?
[QUOTE=Chubbs;52705035]Get a programmer for whatever controller they're using I guess.
[editline]21st September 2017[/editline]
Does anyone know somewhere with Kailh BOX switches in stock that doesn't want a million quid to ship them to the UK?[/QUOTE]
If it's cheaper I'll ship them? It probably isn't though.
Been looking at buying a brown switch mechanical keyboard and had the [URL="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Z8E58MI/ref=s9u_cartx_gw_i1?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pd_rd_i=B00Z8E58MI&pd_rd_r=9471ee11-9f4a-11e7-a313-c98a1d47b184&pd_rd_w=SWUjU&pd_rd_wg=a5ikw&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=V890WQ85YYWBCN9BDZ88&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1cf9d009-399c-49e1-901a-7b8786e59436&pf_rd_i=desktop"]Nixeus Moda v2[/URL] or a Varmilo board on my list. I'm a bit held back on the Nixeus because of the mixed reviews regarding kailh switches but I do like the minimalist design.
Does Varmilo make reputable boards for the 100$ + price point and has the quality of kailh switches improved over time compared to gateron and cherry switches?
I just ran into the [URL="https://www.pcgamingrace.com/collections/glorious-gaming-modular-cherry-gateron-kailh-mechanical-keyboards/products/glorious-modular-mechanical-pc-gaming-keyboard-tenkeyless-tkl-87-key-gateron-cherry-kailh-switches?variant=43938944846"]GMMK-TKL[/URL] and this seems to be well worth the 100$ USD price with all the features the keyboard includes, might hold off and see if I can buy one of these.
It bugs me that the I key on my K70 that's only a couple weeks old is clickyish (Not noticable when typing/gaming) even though it's an MX brown.
It feels like something is catching it on the way up and is slightly stiffer than all the rest.
[QUOTE=Levelog;52705956]If it's cheaper I'll ship them? It probably isn't though.[/QUOTE]
It's coming out at like ~25 USD to get 100 of them shipped from all the stores that have them in stock in the states (Mehkee/Novelkeys/Flashquark) which isn't worth it in my opinion for 30 USD of switches. I'm probably just gonna wait for them to come in stock at a UK distributor.
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