That's weird as hell. I've heard of that happened due to the tracks lifting off the PCB in some Filco MJ1's. More likely the controller shitting itself though.
It is an old keyboard, I am hoping that Amazon one is any good.
No one seems to know tho.
Looks like some generic taobao board with kailh/gateron blues.
Would it be any good?
I don't have much money.
The actual board will function fine in all likelyhood. The keycaps will be the cheapest lasered ABS in the universe. Switches will either be to your tastes or not, there isn't really any way to know that in advance.
It will do, thank you.
When I get a few more bucks I'll buy it.
Something off TaoBao/Ali if you can use them.
I have a rk61 bluetooth board and I use it more than my 190 dollar topre boards
https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Bluetooth-Multi-Device-Mechanical-Rechargeable/dp/B0731H35J8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523298567&sr=8-1&keywords=rk61&dpID=41DvJTGXSgL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
you can use it wired too if you don't care, granted I replaced the switches in it but the ones that it comes with are perfectly fine MX blue cloans
Corsair makes an RGB one with silent switches.
https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-K70-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B073XW69VB
Ask me anything, this is my daily.
the post prior to yours was on the same day, maybe you accidentally got ported to the wrong page after posting
also what up nerds I'm looking at potentially building a "Let's Split" 40%, father in law is getting a big cnc machine and wants projects to start toying with, so I can order up some custom nonsense for the plates. Been toying with raspberry pi's as well, would be fun either building a mount in one of the boards, or making a separate housing for a screen and battery pack that matches the boards so I can just stack everything into one big brick. L like the build below but will probably aim for clear/etched plates that pick up color well from the LEDs
https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/107007/228c89ad-b2fa-450e-a6e5-33d01ef7004a/image.png
for the past while I've been using a Poker 3 with MX browns as both a desktop and travel board, have a few color enter keys I swap out here and there
https://i.imgur.com/6w9yx1l.png
I'm likely going to try selling it off to fund making the let's split, since the split would be better for toting around than this steel cased beast, and I just picked up a Vortex Vibe to act as a more permanent desktop piece. Has a numpad, and still has the same FN functions as the poker, so I'll be right at home, and it has mx silver/speed keys so it should be way less percussive if I've got a mic sitting right next to it. SHOULD arrive today or tomorrow and I'm clearly not showing up to this thread out of mail anxiety. Keeping the default keys for now but I really like this keyset on it-
https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/107007/a3d37d66-7668-4d7a-9c5e-abc7b078ac55/image.png
You're better off using a pair of Pro Micro's for a Lets Split. Any kind of Pi is way overpowered for the task. The cheapest you could make a Lets Split would be like $30. Assuming you Outemu's or something and handwire it, and you get the case right first try.
If you make an acrylic plate I would recommend cutting out 4mm x 1mm recesses for the little tabs on the switches so that they don't come flying out at random. Advisable to check the actual thickness of your plates before cutting the recesses, too, because if the slots are even slightly over 0.5mm thick the switches won't always clip.
oh no I meant using the pi as a built in computer for cheapo travel laptop/nerd nonsense, not as the microcontroller. I have the parts lists from the LS github, including the pro micro's and some cheaper equivalents on amazon. On that note though, should I trust an $8 knockoff over the $20 pro micro?
What's the best microcontroller to make my own keyboard with? Finally started tearing down my Minicom III and I'm starting to trace the matrix, but I need some actual hardware to start really testing.
I exclusively use the cheapest pro micro knockoffs I can find from eBay. The only real difference between them and the real thing is that the voltage regulation circuitry is much cheaper, but that isn't really relevant unless you're putting comedy out of spec voltages into them. I've never had one go wrong in a keyboard.
Perfect, I've got 3 or 4 Pro Micro knockoffs lying around. Thanks for the suggestion for the places to buy, I'll take a look.
MechanicalKeyboards stocks Outemu/Cherry/Gateron/Greetech blues. Kailh blues can be acquired from NovelKeys as previously mentioned.
I bought a stack of Outemu Purple Tactiles for 12 whole dollars and feel dirty. Hoping they feel good
given all the easy discount bits and price breaks, I'm actually getting parts for two let's split boards now. but to start I'm only nabbing enough switches for one and haven't figured out what I want to do about getting the keys, digging for a TKL set will probably be my best bet for options, given it's not going to take some of the odd-sized modifiers/spacebars from most planck/40% sets, and the few sets I'm seeing on ali express are boring or just bad
Thanks. I'm having trouble finding out on the outemus on that site, are they 2 pins + 3 plastic pegs, do you know? My Minicom's PCB is set up that way for its existing Cherry Blacks.
No idea, but if you have a plate the PCB mount pins aren't really needed.
Nope, no plate here. Just mounting to the PCB. Good enough for the minicom good enough for me.
novel keys is good and i would totally recommend getting kailh box clicky switches instead of blues
So I'm sick of this terrible 20 dollar knockoff thing and I'd like something that looks like a normal keyboard. Anyone have any ideas for a plain black keyboard with Cherry MX Brown? Basically the Masterkeys Pro L but cheaper would be great.
I had a G910 with the same switches, felt great but the price obviously isn't worth it compared to other things due to the gimmicky looks and app nonsense. A main namebrand board with (backlit!) MX switches for 60 bucks is a deal though! If you've got a best buy nearby they've probably got a 910 or similar board out with red switches. If there's a razer board, it's probably got (not MX?) green switches, in case you want to know what all the hubub about blues/greens is
speaking of loud
https://twitter.com/notglacier/status/982109598839484416
The current "Razer" switches are made by Greetech. Just some generic click jacket mx clones.
In my opinion the Kailh BOX/Speed click bar switches are the way to go for clicky if you can't get your hands on complicated ALPS.
I have seen the light
I bought an AEK2 off ebay last week, it arrived today and good god damn these Alps Salmon switches feel infinitely better than any Cherry switch
I don't even want to type on my fancy Korean custom board anymore, Alps is love, Alps is life
Usually I buy high end keyboards to test stuff out, but I needed a work keyboard and was looking at cherry MX clears. I picked up an iKBC CD104 full size in clears... WOW. This feels great. My question is, is this what Topre's/HHKB feels like?
(I'm not an expert on mech boards, my favorite board is an MX Blue Pok3r)
Complicated Alps is just straight up superior to the MX design. Especially clicky Alps.
Are there any ergonomic, high-performance Brown switch keyboards suitable for gaming that aren't too flashy? I have a G.Skill KM780r with Reds that isn't that bad; however, with the wrist rest it encroaches a fair bit on my desk space (and it's somewhat uncomfortable without the rest), and I'd like to type more quietly.
Browns and reds are going to be the exact same volume.
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