• PC Building V3 - Complain about RAM prices here
    818 replies, posted
Interacting with the system via interrupts will ALWAYS be faster, even if "speed" is identical. That's the whole reason why TB3 can do stuff like eGPUs and 10G ethernet, it can just access whatever it needs whenever it wants, rather than polling or passively queuing.
I think the Black Edition cpus were a better deal back when as far as coolers, I have a 955 BE which ran right around 65c at like upto 4.4ghz with an extremely unsafe voltage for the VRM configuration it had. I don't remember them being much more expensive at all over the non BE and I remember Newegg always having sales on them bringing the price down near or below the non BE's. I threw a $15 212 LED on it for good measure though. You can still pick up the original AM3+ Wraith Silent non LED's for $17 or LED for $28 on ebay which supposedly work with stock AM4 brackets if you get stuck with a stealth and want something cheap, simple and works. While the Spire is perfectly usable it's far from a high end heatsink and really speaks more for how power efficient Ryzen is out of the box and how well they can design a cheap heatsink. Overclocking the 2600 like a 2600X with a different heatsink would probably be more cost effective but the 2600X is just easy, simple performance out of the box. It all just really depends on how you want to spend your money.
AMD also has to design the cooler with a lot of considerations in mind, the stock cooler is downdraft, so is really compact for how well it performs (compare it to the 212 evo, which while is better is also significantly taller); and at least provides some VRM airflow.
Okay I am really breaking my head here, cant decide between: i5 - 8600k for £218 or i7 - 8700 for £276 I can easily overclock 8600k, although in reality, I would be fucking stupid to go for 8700 and not 8700k if price difference is £30. I only mainly use PC for games and GPU is GTX 1080 so it wont get bottle necked by CPU eitherway.
Hi, I've never had an issue with these and legitimately have no idea what you're complaining about.
https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/107290/ed5a0f2c-5ca2-4c7c-8966-312e44e89a19/image.png I think I finalized my choices. Considering also getting Corsair Obsidian 750D, currently have Carbide 300R but I cant fit a fucking shit into it, currently my h100i sits above RAM sticks so if I want to remove RAM - I need to take out entire rad.
You are of the ever most small minority of people then apparently*. On paper these awful little mounts seem like an A okay screwless solution but in practice they, ESPECIALLY on repeat installs (say, after replacing thermalpaste) are prone to having these little bits: https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/109874/02ce86b3-7edf-4442-803d-cb1235bc5cbb/image.png Get bent if you don't get them in just right the first time, provided they don't snap off. Once they're scroogled all subsequent installs become that much more of a pain in the ass because they wont want to stay towards the center which they absolutely need to do if you're gonna get them in through the heatsink mount hole. Having had to do a slew of installs for these from my own PCs to most of my friend's pcs when my squad was finally making the switch to them a few years ago I can assure you, these are nothing but nuisances. *And if you still think this is just a me problem, you need only google "intel stock heatsink mount pin": https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/109874/3bcb6d48-ff80-4200-a04f-cdb4e17c7c80/image.png https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/109874/3148be35-08a2-4e46-95aa-ce6fc21cfc1f/image.png
The heatsink itself also just purely sucks. Good on AMD for taking that job sorta seriously.
I've built 100+ systems with the intel heatsink and I still fuck up those pins sometimes.
Also the fans are cheap and get really noisy with age
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076XXMJZH/ Anyone know if an SSD this cheap is to be trusted?
Be sure to do your research as to who provides their NAND, and how good their controller is. The former will tell you the sort of reliability and longevity to expect, and the latter will give you an idea of its real world performance; a SATA SSD with a bad controller will feel noticeably worse than one with a competent or good one, especially when it comes to random reads.
looks like these are MLC https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/79dd4u/ssd_inland_professional_120gb_sata_iii_6gbs_25/ https://smarthdd.com/database/SPCC-Solid-State-Disk/SBFM21.1/
Anyone know any good European stores with international shipping? My Logitech G700 is dying and I can't find a single new one in my country, and I don't want any of their newer models since they lack the features I want. I checked amazon.de by the way and they only have used or refurb ones :/
nothing like literally two days after you finish your build getting this email from fractal support https://i.imgur.com/nknaFVp.png
Why the fuck does the R6 support 11 HDD sleds then only come with 6? That's a direct downgrade from the 8 on the R5 for no discernible reason, you even lose the nice slide in functionality of the older ones.
did the r5 ones slide in tool-less? they slide in on mine and then you just thumbscrew them in and still 6 drives plus 2 2.5 attachment points behind the motherboard is a pretty big amount of drives
R5 ones you slide in until they click then you squeeze the two bits that stick out to remove them, no fucking around with screws. The captive thumb screws on the rear side panel are awful to actually get to go in right, not sure why they didn't use the same spring loaded fastener they used on the other panel. The normal thumbscrews on the other side work just fine but those captive ones are pieces of shit.
Not sure if this is allowed or classed as promotion but if there's a better thread for it move me there or just delete this post but I'm selling my old GTX Gigabyte 8GB 1080 if any of you PC builders here would like one
we used to have a hardware exchange thread but it's gone now, I think. I'd post to CIPWTTKT as well.
I really wish this new FP had a working message system because I might have the scratch for it soon, and wouldn't mind buying secondhand from you guys
Any recommendations for a robust Bluetooth solution? My HTPC has no integrated Bluetooth and I'm not sure how to work around this. I bought a ASUS BT400 but it's far from an ideal solution. My DS4 controllers keep disconnecting for short but annoyingly noticeable durations. Input gets stuck sometimes as well so if a controller disconnects for a milliesecond while moving in one direction, it'll keep moving in that direction until I reconnect it. Such a painful experience that I opted for cables instead and let the adapter sit in a drawer. Would it be a better idea to go for a PCI Bluetooth card or are there USB solutions that perform the same? Also, my router sits next to the HTPC. Could that interfere with the signal or is there no reason for concern? The only devices connected to the WiFi is my weight, weather station and me and my SO's phone.
So, my workstation has a grand total of ten type A ports (6x 3.0, 4x 2.0), and basically all of them are occupied with something at all times now. Rift, Rift sensor towers, Xbox controller, mouse, keyboard, programmable keypad, trackball, spacenav, etc, etc... Things are not going so smoothly. I've noticed that on startup, some of my USB devices aren't being recognized, and occasionally they'll conflict with eachother during otherwise normal operation, like one of my Rift sensors suddenly disconnecting and reconnecting when my Xbox controller goes to sleep. Where do you guys think the bottleneck is? Am I pushing my PSU or something?
are these all mobo ports? if so yeah, you're probably using too much, get a powered USB hub/card
Back six (4x 3.0, 2x 2.0) are mobo, remaining 2/2 are front IO Would I just be better off upgrading my PSU instead of hassling with powered hubs? And if so, is there an expansion card I can buy that would add like... At least eight more 2.0 ports? Most of my devices don't actually run in 3.0 mode, and I assume a 2.0 card would draw less system power than a 3.0 card.
What PSU do you have?
i don't really think the PSU is relevant all the USB ports he's running are running directly off the mobo rails, it's not like it can push more power to get to the USB ports without breaking the mobo
460w OEM, came with the system Is there any way to test what my total draw from the PSU to the system is?
Glad to see we moved to a new forum that totally fixed the bugs the old one had.
Mind you, it's all those ports, an R5 1400, RX 570, 16GB DDR4, SATA SSD, two mid RPM case fans, one high RPM CPU fan, and a wireless AC nic. And apparently this PSU was "just up to par" for half that RAM and one less fan.
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