Could you please tell me if I have selected compatible parts and if they will fit in the selected case?
Also will I be able to overclock to around 4Ghz with the selected cooler?
I have put together two (I think) comparable builds, which one would be better?
[B]Build one:[/B]
[img]http://i.minus.com/iLfhs1JnsR4LD.PNG[/img]
[B]Build two:[/B]
[img]http://i.minus.com/iTFJVLJvHQQYR.PNG[/img]
I recommend build one except with the Asus cards swapped out to MSI Twin frozr one's. I also recommend the R9 280X above the GTX 770 since it preforms faster for less (see this thread for large debate about which one is better: [url]http://facepunch.com/showthread.php?t=1329707[/url]). Either way I still recommend MSI for the brand. I also recommend the case be swapped out for a fractal design r4.
[QUOTE=flayne;43037779]I recommend build one except with the Asus cards swapped out to MSI Twin frozr one's. I also recommend the R9 280X above the GTX 770 since it preforms faster for less (see this thread for large debate about which one is better: [url]http://facepunch.com/showthread.php?t=1329707[/url]). Either way I still recommend MSI for the brand. I also recommend the case be swapped out for a fractal design r4.[/QUOTE]
Would combining a MSI motherboard with MSI cards be better (like this) or should I get the MSI GPU with the asus board?
[img]http://i7.minus.com/ibigZAwXwQusQT.PNG[/img]
I'd preferably get the gtx 770 SLI because of Shadowplay and generally I think Nvidea drivers are better (correct me if I am wrong). Thanks!
[QUOTE=rakker;43037809]Would combining a MSI motherboard with MSI cards be better (like this) or should I get the MSI GPU with the asus board?
[img]http://i7.minus.com/ibigZAwXwQusQT.PNG[/img]
I'd preferably get the gtx 770 SLI because of Shadowplay and generally I think Nvidea drivers are better (correct me if I am wrong). Thanks![/QUOTE]
Get rid of that extremely expensive PSU and get one for arounf 70-80€,. Corsair, Seasonic, XFX and some cooler masters are good.
Also you dont want to start with SLI. Just buy a single 780 or even a 770 for that matter and upgrade later.
There are almost no games a single 770 cannot run maxxed out, and your just going to create problems with sli with no real benefit. (Drivers, microstutter, increased power usage, unsupported in games etc etc)
I got a MSI board not too long ago, and it's great, you can use the mouse in the BIOS (though I think most mobos have that now), even change bios settings from within windows, and [I]use a flash drive with a bios image to boot it in case the on-board one fails for some reason[/I].
Also I have a deep hatred for Asus because everything I've ever owned that was made by them broke for no reason.
So yeah get MSI+ Nvidia (shadowplay, working drivers, physx)
the MSI g45 gaming is a pretty standard medium quality board. It does have the best sound quality of all boards at that pricepoint tough so its higly reccomended.
[QUOTE=taipan;43037848]Get rid of that extremely expensive PSU and get one for arounf 70-80€,. Corsair, Seasonic, XFX and some cooler masters are good.
Also you dont want to start with SLI. Just buy a single 780 or even a 770 for that matter and upgrade later.
There are almost no games a single 770 cannot run maxxed out, and your just going to create problems with sli with no real benefit. (Drivers, microstutter, increased power usage, unsupported in games etc etc)[/QUOTE]
I chose this PSU because it was suggested on a website to use in combination with these video cards, and I want to be sure it works as I have little to no knowledge about this kind of thing, could you link me a PSU that works with this combination of parts?
Also considering the arc midi r2 vs the r4 now, why should I choose one or the other?
(price difference is that important)
That's build two, I recommend you modify off of build 1. Combining an MSI motherboard with MSI card will do absolutely nothing. The following are myths:
Intel goes with Nvidia.
AMD processors go with AMD graphics cards.
SLI and CFX are only supported by Intel and AMD processors respectively.
Matching up brands results in a speed boost because of hidden features.
The G45-Gaming, however, is a great motherboard. I recommend that or the z87x-d3h. The G45-Gaming provides slightly better sound quality and an additional PCI 3.0 express slot, while the z87x-d3h has a better BIOS layout and provides more USB I/O. I have the z87x-d3h, and it's an absolutely fantastic motherboard.
With the build above, I have the following critiques:
Like I said the case should be swapped for the R4, since it's an updated version of the fractal design series unless you have specific reasons for wanting the case.
Low profile RAM is unnecessary (and it's quite expensive), don't worry I have the same cooler and it fits fine with non-low profile RAM as long as you don't install an additional fan and populate the leftmost RAM slot at the same time.
[editline]1st December 2013[/editline]
[QUOTE=rakker;43037878]I chose this PSU because it was suggested on a website to use in combination with these video cards, and I want to be sure it works as I have little to no knowledge about this kind of thing, could you link me a PSU that works with this combination of parts?
Also considering the arc midi r2 vs the r4 now, why should I choose one or the other?
(price difference is that important)[/QUOTE]
What is the price difference between the two? The R4 is just an updated version.
PSU myths:
Only certain PSUs go with certain cards (truth: PSUs don't care what components you have, just that you have enough wattage and the right connectors or adapters).
Only certain PSUs support SLI and CFX (truth: they all do, it just takes an impressive amount of wattage to run two of the most power consuming hardware in your computer).
Going with a really expensive ultra-effecient platinum PSU will save you money in the end because it will reduce your power bill (truth: unless you have an incredible power bill per watt, it will reduce your power bill by about $5 a year going from 80 plus bronze to gold).
You need to have twice the wattage of your system in your PSU (truth: PSUs preform best when your system is 60-80% their certified wattage if they have been certified accurately; however, this won't reduce your power bill by a significant amount, and it's really not important to have too much more wattage unless you are planning on upgrading significantly (like adding another graphics card).
For PSU, buy from a reputable brand so it doesn't blow up and have enough wattage to support your system are the only real requirements.
[QUOTE=flayne;43037882]That's build two, I recommend you modify off of build 1. Combining an MSI motherboard with MSI card will do absolutely nothing. The following are myths:
Intel goes with Nvidia.
AMD processors go with AMD graphics cards.
SLI and CFX are only supported by Intel and AMD processors respectively.
Matching up brands results in a speed boost because of hidden features.
The G45-Gaming, however, is a great motherboard. I recommend that or the z87x-d3h. The G45-Gaming provides slightly better sound quality and an additional PCI 3.0 express slot, while the z87x-d3h has a better BIOS layout and provides more USB I/O. I have the z87x-d3h, and it's an absolutely fantastic motherboard.
With the build above, I have the following critiques:
Like I said the case should be swapped for the R4, since it's an updated version of the fractal design series unless you have specific reasons for wanting the case.
Low profile RAM is unnecessary (and it's quite expensive), don't worry I have the same cooler and it fits fine with non-low profile RAM as long as you don't install an additional fan and populate the leftmost RAM slot at the same time.
[editline]1st December 2013[/editline]
What is the price difference between the two? The R4 is just an updated version.
PSU myths:
Only certain PSUs go with certain cards.
Only certain PSUs support SLI and CFX.
Going with a really expensive ultra-effecient platinum PSU will save you money in the end because it will reduce your power bill (truth: unless you have an incredible power bill per watt, it will reduce your power bill by about $5 a year going from 80 plus bronze to gold).
You need to have twice the wattage of your system in your PSU (truth: PSUs preform best when your system is 60-80% their certified wattage if they have been certified accurately; however, this won't reduce your power bill by a significant amount, and it's really not important to have too much more wattage unless you are planning on upgrading significantly (like adding another graphics card).
For PSU, buy from a reputable brand so it doesn't blow up and have enough wattage to support your system are the only real requirements.[/QUOTE]
The r2 is €83,10 and the Fractal Design Define R4 Pearl Black €87,38, so the price does not make a difference, however I want to make sure it will all fit.
[editline]1st December 2013[/editline]
Concerning the motherboard, is the following just a marketing trick? Will I get the same performance with the gigabyte board?
[img]http://i6.minus.com/iPIn8XMpQr52g.PNG[/img]
[QUOTE=Thunderbolt;43037849]I got a MSI board not too long ago, and it's great, you can use the mouse in the BIOS (though I think most mobos have that now), even change bios settings from within windows, and [I]use a flash drive with a bios image to boot it in case the on-board one fails for some reason[/I].
Also I have a deep hatred for Asus because everything I've ever owned that was made by them broke for no reason.
So yeah get MSI+ Nvidia (shadowplay, working drivers, physx)[/QUOTE]
I own a Gigabyte Z77X-D3H, I love it. There's nothing wrong with it. I can too use my mouse on the BiOS menu. Easy overclocking. As with any hardware though, it's fragile. I made the dumb mistake one day when removing a fried GPU (time did its work on it) and the PCI express lane's clip would not let go. As I tried to unclip it, the lane broke.
I was mad, but, with the satisfaction I'd had with the motherboard, purchased a new one of the exact model, that had in fact, been revised. The four pin CPU power had been changed to eight pin, along with a few other new goodies.
I agree that you should start on a 770, 780, or 780 Ti in a singular setup. Not enough later? Decide you just want "moar FPS"? Get a second one. I owned a single 660 for BF3 and it played it at about 80 FPS. A reference card that was factory overclocked and loved it. I grabbed a second card for my computer after BF4 beta because it was my birthday and I no longer got 60 FPS when the final product was released at the end of October. Odd because the beta performed better.
Now I hit 110 FPS on my dual 660s (but the game is poorly optimized as of my last checking, so I have had hits ~ 40FPS, and not because it was maxing my cards)
Don't get a 760 or a 660.
Hyper 212 Evo is an excellent choice.
An i5 for gaming ATM is an excellent choice.
Do get a cheaper PSU.
That case looks cool, but I personally prefer the Rosewill Blackhawk because of its five fans out of the box. The only issue is that with the Hyper 212 EVO, the case side fan will need to be moved to the top of the case. It also has Blue LEDs on all of the fans except for the side fans.
Your case has: 2 x USB 3.0
Rosewill Blackhawk: 2 x USB 3.0, 4 x USB 2.0, and a tray on top with a SATA dock along with cable management for about the same price
Case is usually preference though. Stick with what you want.
The GPU is great. Nvidia for shadowplay, etc.
My opinion: you're looking good.
[QUOTE=GeEkOfWiReS;43038091]I own a Gigabyte Z77X-D3H, I love it. There's nothing wrong with it. I can too use my mouse on the BiOS menu. Easy overclocking. As with any hardware though, it's fragile. I made the dumb mistake one day when removing a fried GPU (time did its work on it) and the PCI express lane's clip would not let go. As I tried to unclip it, the lane broke.
I was mad, but, with the satisfaction I'd had with the motherboard, purchased a new one of the exact model, that had in fact, been revised. The four pin CPU power had been changed to eight pin, along with a few other new goodies.
I agree that you should start on a 770, 780, or 780 Ti in a singular setup. Not enough later? Decide you just want "moar FPS"? Get a second one. I owned a single 660 for BF3 and it played it at about 80 FPS. A reference card that was factory overclocked and loved it. I grabbed a second card for my computer after BF4 beta because it was my birthday and I no longer got 60 FPS when the final product was released at the end of October. Odd because the beta performed better.
Now I hit 110 FPS on my dual 660s (but the game is poorly optimized as of my last checking, so I have had hits ~ 40FPS, and not because it was maxing my cards)
Don't get a 760 or a 660.
Hyper 212 Evo is an excellent choice.
An i5 for gaming ATM is an excellent choice.
Do get a cheaper PSU.
That case looks cool, but I personally prefer the Rosewill Blackhawk because of its five fans out of the box. The only issue is that with the Hyper 212 EVO, the case side fan will need to be moved to the top of the case. It also has Blue LEDs on all of the fans except for the side fans.
Your case has: 2 x USB 3.0
Rosewill Blackhawk: 2 x USB 3.0, 4 x USB 2.0, and a tray on top with a SATA dock along with cable management for about the same price
Case is usually preference though. Stick with what you want.
The GPU is great. Nvidia for shadowplay, etc.
My opinion: you're looking good.[/QUOTE]
The Rosewill Blackhawk is not sold here, So I think that I will stick with the R2 (probably) or the R4.
I decided that I will probably get the Z87X-D3H, because there are more overclocking guides for this board.
Still not sure what PSU to get, I will have to look around a bit more.
So far this is what I have now, thanks for all the help!
[img]http://i4.minus.com/iBnLIUItl9bGZ.PNG[/img]
[QUOTE=rakker;43038194]The Rosewill Blackhawk is not sold here, So I think that I will stick with the R2 (probably) or the R4.
I decided that I will probably get the Z87X-D3H, because there are more overclocking guides for this board.
Still not sure what PSU to get, I will have to look around a bit more.
So far this is what I have now, thanks for all the help!
[img]http://i4.minus.com/iBnLIUItl9bGZ.PNG[/img][/QUOTE]
Are you going to need all 250 GB on the SSD? I usually say to load the OS onto the SSD and change the location of where you install all of your programs to the HDD. I thought the EVO 128 GB was ~40 cheaper, but like I've said: personal preference.
[B][U]Edit[/U][/B]: Do you know what operating system you're using / do you have it?
[QUOTE=GeEkOfWiReS;43038233]Are you going to need all 250 GB on the SSD? I usually say to load the OS onto the SSD and change the location of where you install all of your programs to the HDD. I thought the EVO 128 GB was ~40 cheaper, but like I've said: personal preference.
[B][U]Edit[/U][/B]: Do you know what operating system you're using / do you have it?[/QUOTE]
Wouldn't installing games to the SSD give a notable performance difference?
[editline]1st December 2013[/editline]
I plan on getting windows 8
[QUOTE=taipan;43037848]Get rid of that extremely expensive PSU and get one for arounf 70-80€,. Corsair, Seasonic, XFX and some cooler masters are good.
Also you dont want to start with SLI. Just buy a single 780 or even a 770 for that matter and upgrade later.
If you do decide to multi-card, SLI is your best bet. Crossfire has had many incompatibilities. And I did have bad drivers fry one of my 660s in the past, so nothing is perfect.
There are almost no games a single 770 cannot run maxxed out, and your just going to create problems with sli with no real benefit. (Drivers, microstutter, increased power usage, unsupported in games etc etc)[/QUOTE]
[editline]1st December 2013[/editline]
[QUOTE=rakker;43038290]Wouldn't installing games to the SSD give a notable performance difference?
[editline]1st December 2013[/editline]
I plan on getting windows 8[/QUOTE]
Yeah, but I noticed that you had a 2TB HDD on there as well, but I was unsure what you planned to do. If you put your games on the SSD, you can drop the HDD to a 1 or 1.5 TB and stick with the 250 GB.
[QUOTE=GeEkOfWiReS;43038317][editline]1st December 2013[/editline]
Yeah, but I noticed that you had a 2TB HDD on there as well, but I was unsure what you planned to do. If you put your games on the SSD, you can drop the HDD to a 1 or 1.5 TB and stick with the 250 GB.[/QUOTE]
Sounds good, will do.
Still not sure about the PSU, any suggestions?
[editline]1st December 2013[/editline]
The build is getting cheaper and cheaper :v:
[img]http://i4.minus.com/ibnqJTLuSMHlva.PNG[/img]
Yeah that thing is a marketing gimic. There's a technology Nvidia has called GPU boost that will do the same thing.
The R4 has one more case fan slot, more I/O, and in my opinion looks better. Just look at fractal design's website for the details.
By the way I recommend you grab some arctic MX-4 if it's not too much more expensive.
As far as I'm aware it's the best thermal paste currently available.
[QUOTE=flayne;43038435]Yeah that thing is a marketing gimic. There's a technology Nvidia has called GPU boost that will do the same thing.
The R4 has one more case fan slot, more I/O, and in my opinion looks better. Just look at fractal design's website for the details.
By the way I recommend you grab some arctic MX-4 if it's not too much more expensive.
As far as I'm aware it's the best thermal paste currently available.[/QUOTE]
MX-4 is actually €1,40 cheaper.
[editline]1st December 2013[/editline]
Added MX-4 instead of 5, thanks
for the psu i suggest you find an 800-1000 watt mostly for future upgrades
there's a cheap 1050 watt i found on newegg hold on
[url]http://pcpartpicker.com/mr/newegg/kingwin-power-supply-abt1050mm[/url]
He has prices in euros. Do you really think he can buy from newegg?
To the OP: what vendor are you using?
[QUOTE=flayne;43039141]He has prices in euros. Do you really think he can buy from newegg?
To the OP: what vendor are you using?[/QUOTE]
idk why his account says hes american then
[QUOTE=Death_God;43038958]for the psu i suggest you find an 800-1000 watt mostly for future upgrades
there's a cheap 1050 watt i found on newegg hold on
[url]http://pcpartpicker.com/mr/newegg/kingwin-power-supply-abt1050mm[/url][/QUOTE]
Thats an absolutely horrible PSU.
OP: Are you still sure you want to start off with SLI? In my opinion its a really bad choice with the reasons I stated a few posts above.
[editline]2nd December 2013[/editline]
[QUOTE=GeEkOfWiReS;43038317][editline]1st December 2013[/editline]
Yeah, but I noticed that you had a 2TB HDD on there as well, but I was unsure what you planned to do. If you put your games on the SSD, you can drop the HDD to a 1 or 1.5 TB and stick with the 250 GB.[/QUOTE]
Your quote of my post kinda screwed up fyi.
I'm from the Netherlands and use the pricewatch on tweakers.net to find the best deal for me.
I plan on buying a 120hz monitor as well so that is why I'd want an SLI setup.
[QUOTE=rakker;43043669]I'm from the Netherlands and use the pricewatch on tweakers.net to find the best deal for me.
I plan on buying a 120hz monitor as well so that is why I'd want an SLI setup.[/QUOTE]
One of the highest end graphics cards like the R9 290(X) or the 780 will run 120hz fine, i'm currently using a 780 on 1440p 120hz without noticable issues in games that aren't shit ports
[editline]2nd December 2013[/editline]
When i had a 120hz 1080p monitor with SLI 680's i ended up playing most games with a single card since SLI caused more issues than it'd ever hope to fix in a majority of games
[QUOTE=taipan;43043303]Thats an absolutely horrible PSU.
OP: Are you still sure you want to start off with SLI? In my opinion its a really bad choice with the reasons I stated a few posts above.
[editline]2nd December 2013[/editline]
Your quote of my post kinda screwed up fyi.[/QUOTE]
Wonderful. I'm going to have to fix it.
[quote=rakker]
I'm from the Netherlands and use the pricewatch on tweakers.net to find the best deal for me.
I plan on buying a 120hz monitor as well so that is why I'd want an SLI setup
[/quote]
Stick with a single R9 290X or 780ti if you want to have 120 FPS. They will definitely have headroom.
My two GTX 660s are just a month after BF4's release hitting 60 FPS with V-Sync / 121 FPS with it off. I still get bad FPS hits, so grab an excellent card now and if it degrades later, get another.
[quote=RandomGamer342] One of the highest end graphics cards like the R9 290(X) or the 780 will run 120hz fine, i'm currently using a 780 on 1440p 120hz without noticable issues in games that aren't shit ports
Edited:
When i had a 120hz 1080p monitor with SLI 680's i ended up playing most games with a single card since SLI caused more issues than it'd ever hope to fix in a majority of games
[/quote]
Here is what I mean.
Would an XFX PRO850W be just as good as the linked Hale? It is €90,-
Does it have all the needed cables for the components? (Including a DVD burner?)
[QUOTE=rakker;43043669]I'm from the Netherlands and use the pricewatch on tweakers.net to find the best deal for me.
I plan on buying a 120hz monitor as well so that is why I'd want an SLI setup.[/QUOTE]
This still doesnt warrant starting off with SLI. Just get a single 780.
780 will easily reach 120 FPS @ 1080p. Maybe even @ 1440p with medium settings.
The XFX Pro line of PSUs is also very good, so no worries there.
The DVD burner takes the same power cable as the HDD (a SATA power cable).
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