• PC Building V4 - "ok SSDs got cheap, now do RAM next"
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You're comparing an excellent AIO setup (push-pull is not common) with a bad air cooler at about a fourth of the cost. This is an awful comparison.
I guess you're right, didn't realize push pull wasn't common on these. Now that I look at it, that thing is definitely thicc with those two fans on there so I guess it isn't fair. https://i.imgur.com/XvgeToS.jpg
I have a haiku for you all. I title it: cooling It's twenty eighteen Hyper Two Twelve's ship sailed Arctic Silver sucks
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G2-0750-XR/dp/B00IKDETOW/ I settled on this one. It's in the price range I was looking for, it's platinum rated, it has a 10 year warranty, and it was a Tom's Hardware editor's choice pick (over the Focus Plus you suggested for about $10 cheaper.) I figure either way would've been a great choice but I decided to go here.
If I'm running Ryzen and know what I'm doing, is there really any reason not to switch to ECC when I plan to double my home workstation's RAM again (16>32) I plan to start some kinda heavy virtualization with Linux for a few reasons, and want to keep the RAM exposed to Windows the same as it is now, without horribly choking the VM (which I'll probably game in too). From what I've seen, ECC can be a lot cheaper in higher capacities thanks to a booming secondhand market, but I wanna make sure I'm not making a mistake here.
Okay wait, what's wrong with Arctic Silver? I've never had a problem with it.
It used to be king, but NT-H1 and Kryonaut deliver consistently better results for cheaper now, and are significantly less electrically conductive.
anyone?
Nope, that's a relatively weak CPU paired with a relatively weak GPU. You're good to go.
relatively weak GPU? It's basically a 570 with more vram. Stronger ones are beheadment tier prices
580 is considered to be upper mid end, 570 is decidedly mid end 1070 and up (arguably the 6GB 1060) is where "high end" cards start
I picked up 3x2gb of ECC-U 1333mhz Samsung DDR3 for $18 shipped off ebay, there was someone locally selling similar stuff for like $20 for a bunch of sticks. There's absolutely no reason not to other than it might not overclock very far and Ryzen loves a higher frequency memory? https://www.evga.com/products/productlist.aspx?type=8 But these prices will only be good when they run a sale on them. https://slickdeals.net/newsearch.php?src=SearchBarV2&q=gtx+1080&pp=20&sort=newest&pricemin=200&pricemax=600&forumid%5B%5D=71&forumid%5B%5D=30&forumid%5B%5D=9&forumid%5B%5D=25&r=1 https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/new/ I'd setup some slickdeals alerts for GTX 1080 and GTX 1070 but it seems like there is a significant amount more bad deals being posted on there, my card was posted again for $319.99 like a week ago. It seems like prices are going back up because of the rumors that the RTX cards aren't worth the money. If you want a good deal, you're going to be ready to pay ASAP. I waited 6-8 months for a deal on a Corsair 450D and scooped it for $46 and change from Amazon on a lightning deal with literally a few seconds left before it sold out. The 1080's were up for almost an hour and restocked twice. Went Noctua fans all the way around and man does it make a difference. Noctua also apparently ships some of their redux fans with their anti vibration dampers, the PWM 140mm 1200rpm NF-P14's came with them. Incredible fans for $15 and with my last Noctuas lasting 7+ years of 100% constantly before one just starting to make a little noise, should last for the life of this case. I replaced all my dying, not even two year old stock Corsair 450D fans. My motherboard runs each fan header at different speeds with only the CPU fan header supporting PWM control despite having other PWM 4 pin headers. Guess that's why I've always had issues with cheap fans failing. Switched to a Swiftech fan hub and it's so nice to have all the fans spin up and down based on load, it's silent at 50%/idle and doesn't make any noise until the GPU fans kick on and everything starts to warm up. I wouldn't recommend this hub to anyone with a really shallow back panel though. It's really thin but the wires from the fans can get in the way if you can't get them to bend flat at the connector. Highly recommend anyone that doesn't have a high end motherboard with customizable PWM fan curves on all headers to spend $10 on something like this. I really wish facepunch supported rotated jpg images. It's really irritating that I have to rotate them, rotate them back, save as a png, reupload them to the post and then when I use png's they post vertically instead of horizontally in the post... https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/144519/14710dec-9dff-4b41-bb85-8c795487fd69/20180826_130751.png https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/144519/6fd97243-697c-465b-abae-e532bfed32a0/20180825_151440.jpg https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/144519/fbaa2dd3-7b83-4ceb-8ce0-5306cb78f378/20180826_130551.png
if you think arkansas is hot, you've never been to mississippi. air is fine. I overclock on air (extra 900 mhz on my cpu and 80 mhz on my gpu) in worse heat than you and have perfectly reasonable temps don't worry about clc unless you're doing big boy overclocks or are looking to do a quiet setup
Not exactly a PC-building question, but here goes. I have a Mac and I have a PC. Sometimes I work from home. I like to have the monitor and keyboard plugged into the Mac. Sometimes, I have to build a binary on Mac, and it takes up a lot of resources, i.e. slows it down. While it's doing this, it would make sense to switch to my PC and do some other work. But that's the thing, I have to then take out the cables and plug them into my computer instead. The build process takes maybe 15 minutes, just enough time to do something else, but not enough time to switch cables around. Is there some sort of more elegant solution for this? For example some kind of 'switch' box where you could choose between A and B? You give it an HDMI and a USB as input, and then you have the same amount of outputs for both A and B. Does this even make sense? Is it a dumb idea?
It's called a KVM Switch
Ain't this annoying as fuck. I'm not the only one apparently, but the Prime B450 plus by ASUS has a pretty nasty habit of making the system hang on the BIOS splash screen on cold startups - everything works fine on restart & it doesn't give me any trouble once I'm in Windows Contacted CS and tried all their suggestions, including but not limited to flashing the BIOS and playing around with connected peripherals So I guess the TL;DR of this is : Suggest me a replacement B450 motherboard, please
I really need to get round to getting a new monitor and making my current display a secondary one. Do you guys have any recommendation on a primarily gaming monitor at 1080p? I'm running an OC 7600K and GTX 970, so like GSync would be cool and 144hz is probs a little out of my range. My price range is under £250 though, so I don't know if I could get something with GSync? My current monitor is cheap af, so anything is an upgrade.
Uhh if it's getting that hot in idle, he needs to make sure that the cooler is properly seated and pasted. Hell, mine ran at about those temps with a dead fan. Reasonable idle temps are like 10-15 degrees above ambient. (unless you do something stupid like disable all the power saving options and run at full OC clocks all the time)
I think I'm writing off gsync at this point, that monitor only has 1 input, which for me is a bit of a deal breaker. Plus it's weirdly hard to get hold of from a decent place and price in the UK.
I would argue that if you need an aftermarket cooler you shouldn't be spending less than $35-40 USD.
Stock coolers, atleast for AMD are good enough where you need to spend a decent amount to get something better. I know some people who got a 2600x and then spend 20 bucks on a cooler and saw worse performance. Like cmon man.
While I ended up ditching my Wraith Spire for boost clock and silence reasons, I was fairly impressed with its performance and especially its noise level for such a small fan.
how strict is your budget? its not out until 31st but samsung are releasing the CJG5 its £309 for 27/1440/144hz/VA unless you want to spend a lot of money you have to compromise somewhere with monitors id rather take the image quality of VA over gsync (the MSI vs that AOC)
5C is worth a non-trivial amount. 5C cooler is also that much quieter, remember. The 212's weak point is its fin stack, the H7 can spin at much lower RPMs
I'm still using mine because I got it back when it was the best value cooler, and I don't feel the need to replace it yet. That said, not sure I'd buy it again today.
If you still have one and it's working for you then no need to replace it.
I'm looking for a 4k monitor refresh rate of 60hz is fine since I don't typically play anything where I get more than 60 fps, and I was wonder if there was anything better for the 300-400$ price range than this
im in the slow process of building my 'dream' pc, something that I've always wanted (to play games on max settings for the first time) but I also want to roll 1440p on 144hz. I don't mind dropping a lot of cash. What kind of graphics card should I go for? Will a 1080 or something similar work, or will I have to spend 1k for the new ones? On max settings.
You can't say this. We have literally no idea how it performs.
What do you mean with nvidia's crystal clear graphs? Clearly the 2080 is anywhere from 1.5 to 2.3 1080's in a "vague, most likely inaccurate" sense, and the new physical chips can fly at a higher altitude than any previous generation I'm pretty sure. Still not as high as Volta though, that's top bitch on the charts.
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