• PC Building V4 - "ok SSDs got cheap, now do RAM next"
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I could, but then I'd have to either copy the framebuffer to that GPU, or not have enough power. Also my new motherboard only has a single PCIe x1 slot exposed.
Weird, I thought DP could directly address VGA I have to use an adapter like that at work, and it seems to expose all the refresh rate, timing, and over/underscan options as straight VGA
There will be bare minimum 1 frame of latency. I suppose that won't matter too much at 100hz, but I still want to have as pure a signal as I can.
Okay, so I've hobbled together a very tentative part list here for my future build. If anybody could let me know if there are any glaring problems or parts that could be replaced with something else for a better value I'd appreciate it. I'd really like to cut costs anywhere that a cheaper part would suffice. I also really don't know what I'm supposed to be looking for with a motherboard. PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/D6HcyX Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/D6HcyX/by_merchant/ CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4GHz 6-Core Processor  ($164.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI - B450M PRO-VDH Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($61.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Team - Vulcan 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  ($129.99 @ Newegg) Storage: ADATA - Ultimate SU800 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($48.89 @ OutletPC) Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($44.89 @ OutletPC) Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC GAMING ACX 3.0 Black Edition Video Card  ($359.99 @ Newegg) Case: Phanteks - Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case  ($89.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: SeaSonic - 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($79.99 @ Amazon) Optical Drive: Asus - DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer  ($21.89 @ OutletPC) Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit  ($94.89 @ OutletPC) Monitor: Acer - GN246HL 24.0" 1920x1080 144Hz Monitor  ($192.99 @ B&H) Total: $1290.48 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-09-25 17:33 EDT-0400 Specific questions: I've been reading that the stock cooler on this CPU is good enough that if you're not overclocking (I'm not), so a separate cooler is not necessary. Does that check out? If I'm not buying a separate cooler, am I going to need thermal paste for anything? The case comes with two fans already (front and back). Am I likely to need any more? There was another monitor that was slightly cheaper, with a curved screen, but 4ms delay. Would that be noticeably different from the 1ms delay on the one I've selected? The monitor I was eyeballing was this: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/vdvbt6/acer-ed242qr-abidpx-236-1920x1080-144hz-monitor-ed242qr-abidpx
Honestly I'd recommend just buying a new card and a good DP>VGA pigtail, giving it like a week, and if you REALLY can notice the difference, return the card/adapter and keep holding out I guess. You're almost always given at least two weeks to return high end electronics, even open box, and every one I've worked with has dropped their restocking fee for all but damaged goods. You don't have much to lose here, aside from maybe the time and labor of actually swapping the cards.
In all honesty, it's really not going to bug me in use. I'm just being an anal purist. I'm pretty content with the 980 Ti's performance in the games I play, and the RTX isn't a big enough jump to justify the cost. I'm sure by the time I actually get an FW900 I will have upgraded my card.
Only AiB cards are ever going back to analog, and even that is going out of style I think. Analog video out is dying, just a fact of life.
It's dying everywhere except commercial-use projector solutions, for some reason VGA will be around forever in some form or another as long as those are needed
Trying to push someone into buyers remorse isn't fun.
Should be yeah, the thermal paste should also be preapplied, though I prefer removing it and using MX4 or NT-H1.
Yeah the Ryzen coolers are surprisingly good for in-box freebies, especially when you compare them to Intel's insultingly anemic and blatantly token standard coolers
I normally throw out stock coolers, but I actually kept the one I got with my 1600 as a backup in case my AIO fails. Knowing I can back off my OC just a little bit and be able to run with that til I can afford another AIO is a nice feeling.
Can anyone tell me how well a Ryzen 5 2400G's GPU works? I understand the iGPU is no worse than a GT 1030 but shoving it into an Inwin Chopin for games on the go would be neat if it's closer to a GTX 1050.
Don't worry - no remorse here at all!
Have you considered getting the 2600x instead of 2600 since you're not overclocking? It already comes pushed nearly to the max out of the box and you could definitely use the higher single core boost clocks in games. It also has a more capable cooler included. Depending on the current prices it might have a slightly worse price/performance ratio, but you're already spending so much that the extra 40$ shouldn't make a big difference. Other than that it looks like a sensible build, nothing else immediately jumps out. For motherboards it's good to take a look at some reviews to make sure that it has all the features you expect and that everything works as advertised. Personally I wouldn't be buying a budget mobo for a build that costs this much, but if you're not overclocking and you're sure that you won't need more expandability later on, it'll probably work just fine. I can confirm that the fans that come with the Pro M are quality stuff, really quiet and they move a decent amount of air. Two should be more than enough for a 150W graphics card. If you notice a lot of heat building up in your case around the graphics card area, you can still add extra fans later on. You technically don''t need thermal paste, but you might as well get some so you have it at hand in case you mess up the cooler installation and need too reapply it. A small tube is really cheap and it'll last you for like 10 applications.
I've got a Node 202 but I need it ~smaller~
ive got the a4-sfx. it's nice but i still gotta buy a 2TB ssd for it so I can close it. I still have 2 1TB regular size hdds so i had to keep the side of the case open to run my sata cables and power to them
So chrome is just being weird on every website I go to now. https://i.imgur.com/tYGnpSL.png Those are icons on reddit. Every once in a while pictures do that on facebook too.
you could get a better monitor for a similar price, i didnt look loads because the filter on pcpartpicker sucks and monitor naming is crazy but one model i saw was the MSI - Optix G24C https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Hh648d/msi-optix-g24c-240-1920x1080-144hz-monitor-optix-g24c drop windows and the dvd rom and you have $100 to spend elsewhere or just save, i use one of those cheapo ebay keys on my new pc and havnt had any issues
My 7600k didn't come with one actually
I think K series don't even bother.
I mean, granted, Intel's stock coolers do WORK, but the problem is that they don't work as well as they need to for post-2010 chips. They've kept basically the same design for close to a decade, only bothering to engineer new thermal solutions for their Xeon platform. Honestly they stand to could partner with someone, to either create a new cooler designed from the ground up for the i9 and K-series chips (like AMD did with the WraithRipper), or even to just put some kind of rebate in the box toward a good tower or AIO. Their partner gets a huge PR boost and tons of new customers, Intel gets to save money by not making it themselves, and customers are happy they get something sensible for once. Everyone wins.
I still remember the WTF moment when I upgraded from a core 2 duo with a 65W tdp (I think) to a 77W 3570k and noticed that the new stock cooler was half the height of the previous one, and of course the temps were accordingly much higher. Intel's been REALLY cheaping out on the coolers lately, that core 2 ran reasonably cool with the stock cooler even with a decent OC.
Thanks for all the tips! I updated the build with advise from you guys. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/zKWNBb I think I might stick with the 2600, because $30 is $30 and from what I've been reading, the performance benefit of the X probably won't be very significant. Might seem silly to skimp there after I'm already dropping this much on it, but I'd still like to be reasonably frugal where I can be here. Switched out to that motherboard, seems like a very reasonable price. I got G.Skill Aegis memory, but switch it out for 8GB. I suspect I'll get by just fine without the full 16 gigs, and if I every find that I need the full 16 I can always just buy another stick when I can find a good deal. Did some light research on monitors and the one you linked seems like a pretty good upgrade for a very small increase in price, so I'm going with that. All in all, knocked a good chunk of money off the build that I can put towards peripherals. I'm seeing a solid deal on a 1070, but it's on Ebay. Has anybody had bad experiences buying new parts on Ebay? It says there's a money back guarantee. https://www.ebay.com/itm/VGA-08G-P4-5170-KR-GeForce-GTX-1070-GAMING-8GB-GDDR5-DX12-OSD-Support-PXOC-/113242188990?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10#viTabs_0 Should I go for it?
Not every PC is an open air bench or an airflow optimized mid tower. mATX and ESPECIALLY ITX PCs can suffer horribly with Intel's stock cooler, even moreso if they have to share space with a GPU.
They tried once, let's not forget this BEAST https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/237826/451ca8e6-42eb-48e9-a4cc-31ffc28fffd1/image.png https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UPdpS_6ln-o Just fuck me up fam
That thing is butt-ugly, wow
I remember when I could overclock my Pentium D and have it no immediatley melt with the stock cooler. My parents wouldn't be me a new CPU cooler
It's finally happening, I'm finding 1070's listed for $200 and 1080's for $300 on craigslist in many places. Miners are trying to unload cards locally and can't move them, really can't wait for when demand goes down further and having 10-20 cards means discounting them massively to get your money back out.
dont get that SSD, pay $30 more for this: SAMSUNG 970 EVO M.2 2280 250GB PCIe Gen3. X4, NVMe 1.3 64L V
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