Tell Steve about it:
https://twitter.com/GamersNexus/status/1058159024246546432
I'd love to send them the card but I'm getting a replacement PC in three days and have to ship this one back.
Just report it to him in the meantime with the SKU and the pictures of the artifacts.
So I changed the update on my GTX 560 when the new update wrecked my resolution. While it's fixed now my stuff is just lagging along.
https://i.imgur.com/fRP6i1H.png?1
FYI: The 2080ti deaths are most likely being caused by inadequately cooled VRMs, running significantly over their rated temps under the FE cooler.
There are thermal images floating around of certain parts of the card lit up 15-35 (!!!) degrees celsius beyond what they're supposed to.
Wait what, aren't VRMs usually rated for something like 110 degrees? How the hell can they possibly get that hot, from what I heard the FE cards even had overkill power delivery design so they could easily handle much more than the stock wattage. Must be a really shitty cooler design if it's not properly contacting the VRMs and completely blocking the airflow over them at the same time.
I appended my post, the VRAM is being choked as well, and that's most likely what's actually straight-up killing the cards (corruption of death)
For reference, these are the 2080ti's hotspots under a GOOD cooler
https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/228820/a7a826c5-e5d8-4001-afc5-e8f36cf9cc36/hotcard.png
I'll just use something else, then. Thanks for the info :-)
Holy shit, is that stock clocks without raising the power limit? Those temps would be kinda hot even directly on top of the components, let alone on the back of the PCB. So much for Nvidia trying to steal business away from their OEM partners with the new cooler design
This was part kind of funny. So basically the case has 2 special slots for HDDs. I've always seen that HDDs needed to be screwed in from the sides, but in this case they needed to be screwed in from the bottom... with some special kind of screws... which were not included (and you can't buy them anywhere). Anyways, I engineered something up and it holds, so whatever, I guess... I probably should write them (Fractal Design) a message about this, lol.
Fractal, huh. The case should have come with a small box full of different screws etc.
I've got the exact same case and yeah, he's missing screws. @dedmytas Call/email FD about it and hopefully they'd mail you some at no extra cost (can't guarantee that but they seem like a good, self-respecting company)
I'm looking to get a decent replacement to my 11 year old 1600x900 monitor, I've no idea what to go for so long as it can manage 1920x1080 as a minimum. I'm also wanting to set it up so I can run a PS4 and my partner's switch off it, so we could get some speakers or headphones plugged in. Any suggestion as to what sorta setup would work best?
Thanks, I messaged them. I don't need the screws anymore, but still, I think they should know...
If you're into high refresh rates at the expense of contrast and color depth, I highly recommend this.
https://smile.amazon.com/ViewSonic-XG2402-FreeSync-Advanced-Ergonomics/dp/B075D1B4SV/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541340783&sr=8-3&keywords=viewsonic+xg2402
Otherwise, the people at /r/monitors are incredibly knowledgeable.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Monitors/
Picking a monitor is highly subjective. It would help to know what you care about in terms of a display. How do you feel about contrast? Color gamut? Refresh rate?
Not sure to post this here, but anyone with a Geforce 500 series GPU with 64 bit processor know what the best driver update is? I have the one from Oct 30 2017 and my framerate is in the toilet.
Version 388.13 I believe. Anyone know a good one?
I use a DELL U2417H (~24 inch) and I love it. Really slick, tho it's only FHD.
My wife have a 950 with same processor and we play GTA, overwatch, sims 4, and plays on okay to medium graphics if your looking for budget gaming.
I'm more looking for old driver updates, but I'll keep that in mind when I'll probably need to switch to a new GPU.
Full specs are:
AMD FX- 8150 8 Processor 3.6GHz
Motherboard unknown (Computer was a relative's)
Nvidia GTX 560
32GB RAM
1 TB HDD
So a fallback GPU that compliments the hardware would be nice should the updates fail.
1920x1080 resolution and a 120hz refresh rate as a minimum, I assume Display Port is the better standard these days (yes, I am still using VGA atm) preferably within the confines of £100-200.
1060 6GB is rock-solid for 1080p gaming, and plenty affordable. It'll also give you CUDA cores, which will give some apps like the Adobe suite a huge performance boost.
If you want something stronger, the 1070 will net you a marked performance gain and +2GB VRAM, though you will need to make sure your CPU is up to the task.
On top of the 1060 6GB, I'd recommend grabbing a cheap SSD too.
Agreed. The top things to change in this rig are the SSD and GPU.
1060 is the best buy or full hd. And, of course, it's better to have SSD instead of HDD. If you try what it is, you will never want to return to hdd.
It's still not a terrible idea to have a regular old HDD around as backup storage. Aren't HDD's more reliable than SSD's when it comes to longevity anyways?
Yes, I was suggesting an SSD as the OS drive with some games and the existing HDD as mass storage. Which is how pmuch everyone does it, unless they're running some caching system.
Surprisingly the Intel 630 UHD can't display HDR content. The option was grayed out when messing around with this system where my 2080 ti died.
It's not quite that simple. The difference is that HDDs have much higher failure rates, but without mechanical failures and wear, they could theoretically work almost forever.
SSDs almost never have unexpected failures but they have a sort of "expiration date." SSDs are rated for a certain amount of data to be successfully written to them over their lifespan. That's what people are talking about when they talk about TBW, that's terabytes written. Past a drive's TBW rating, it's expected to fail.
I feel like most SSD's expiration date is completely irrelevant, even in use on a server it's pretty much certain you're going to be done with an SSD long before it dies.
That was where the "most" part comes in. Cheap in this context isn't even £30 from Kingston, it's somehow even less from a company with a suspiciously similar name to Kingston on banggood.com or whatever.
Can you guys give me some advice on choosing a motherboard for Ryzen 2600? Is ASUS ROG STRIX X370-F GAMING any good?
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PC Building V5 "needs extra thermal paste"
