PC Building V5 "needs extra thermal paste" - Hardware & Software

I wish somebody reputable made a Vega Nano or Sapphire Pulse waterblock, would be wicked tiny. Also, I find the EK Vega blocks to be ugly and boring: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/1600x/040ec09b1e35df139433887a97daa66f/e/k/ek-fc_radeon_vega_cp_coolant.jpg Swiftech has a slightly better one: http://www.swiftech.com/images/products/detail/KOMODO-NV-LE-RX-VEGA-IRIS.jpg And of course, the best one: https://babeltechreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/RX-Vega-64-Liquid-2.jpg

Honestly if it could be done easily or with no modification, I'd just buy another GPU bracket like the one in my system and do it to a Vega.

1080ti prices are so damn high you'd may as well get a 2080 lol

I was looking at the type c one but yeah it's 172 and I don't know if it's worth for me

My opinion is to just buy a used 1080ti, usually locally. You can usually get them for the same price as a "new" 1080 or about $50-100 more than a "new" 1070. After Nvidia succeeded in price fixing their 10 series with the 20 series launch since they gambled on crypto, I wouldn't bother paying for 2016's performance at 2016's MSRP. Otherwise you just have to pray for a decent deal coming up which there seems to still be some floating around.

My headset just broke into pieces when I picked it up to use it....what do you all recommend as a replacement? I currently have a wired Logitech 5.1 surround sound one. Just need something with good audio and great mic.

Just wondering if anyone can just do a overview of my planned build. [url=https://pcpartpicker.com/list/HGW3vn]PCPartPicker part list[/url] / [url=https://pcpartpicker.com/list/HGW3vn/by_merchant/]Price breakdown by merchant[/url] [b]CPU:[/b] [url=https://pcpartpicker.com/product/C9hj4D/intel-core-i7-8700-32ghz-6-core-processor-bx80684i78700]Intel - Core i7-8700 3.2 GHz 6-Core Processor[/url] ($308.99 @ Walmart) [b]CPU Cooler:[/b] [url=https://pcpartpicker.com/product/CrDzK8/corsair-cpu-cooler-cw9060025ww]Corsair - H100i v2 70.69 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler[/url] ($94.99 @ Amazon) [b]Motherboard:[/b] [url=https://pcpartpicker.com/product/G9WfrH/asus-rog-maximus-x-code-atx-lga1151-motherboard-rog-maximus-x-code]Asus - ROG MAXIMUS X CODE ATX LGA1151 Motherboard[/url] ($259.99 @ Amazon) [b]Memory:[/b] [url=https://pcpartpicker.com/product/MYH48d/corsair-memory-cmk16gx4m2b3000c15]Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory[/url] ($129.89 @ OutletPC) [b]Video Card:[/b] [url=https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Pshj4D/evga-geforce-gtx-1070-8gb-ftw-gaming-acx-30-video-card-08g-p4-6276-kr]EVGA - GeForce GTX 1070 8 GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card[/url] ($369.89 @ OutletPC) [b]Case:[/b] [url=https://pcpartpicker.com/product/p8x2FT/nzxt-h500-black-atx-mid-tower-case-ca-h500b-b1]NZXT - H500 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case[/url] ($67.99 @ Amazon) [b]Power Supply:[/b] [url=https://pcpartpicker.com/product/sMM323/evga-supernova-g3-550w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-220-g3-0550]EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply[/url] (Purchased For $0.00) [b]Total:[/b] $1231.74 [i]Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available[/i] [i]Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-11-17 17:21 EST-0500[/i]

This is a pretty boilerplate reply but don't bother with gaming headsets, they universally suck. Grab some good headphones, ATH-M50s are the go-to, and some kind of desktop microphone. Others would know more about those than me. I use an Antlion Modmic but I wouldn't necessarily recommend you buy one these days.

Look at the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M, $100 on Newegg and Amazon.

That's the tempered glass version, the normal one is a good deal cheaper. I've been using this case for a while and it's really solid, great value in terms of price/functionality. It has all the features you'd want and tons of space for building. The only situation where I'd advise against buying it is if you have many drives, because then you'd need to spend a bunch of money on buying the additional HDD/SSD brackets.

It was the only version that I could find on Amazon, but good catch. I remember them being like $75 on Newegg, that's probably why. Also damn, yeah those brackets are surprisingly expensive, thats like $70 in just brackets to fill the whole thing.

I'll consider it as I do want to drop the price a bit. Also, I still have my Phanteks Enthoo Pro Series PH case. If it's still decent to use, I'll just drop .

Man the space I get in my full Enthoo Pro I dunno how I'd manage going back to a mid-sized tower. So many fans

I got a modmic 5 and my friend on discord said it gets a bit static-y when talk, very annoying I have a few things coming in that will hopefully fix the issue, since no google solutions have worked so far, but its very nice outside of that

So I'm running into a strange issue with my new build. After a complete power loss, when trying to turn it on it will reboot twice in quick succession (1 second or so), wait a longer duration, reboot again, and finally POST and give me this, wiping all BIOS settings: https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/106970/256e0a59-3d5f-4158-8362-2a6c60404916/image.png I've already updated the BIOS to the latest version (0602), because out of the box it was 0224, dated 2 months before the oldest driver on Asus' website (0506). If I don't completely disconnect the power it works fine and retains the BIOS settings, and the CMOS battery measures 3V so it's not dead either. RMA the motherboard?

I would also definitely recommend the 2600x or 2700x with an equivalent motherboard, you're going to get equivalent performance for $200+ less. The graphics card is a decent deal, but it's promotion season so do make sure you look about. You might get a better deal by using some of that $200 saved to get something like $50 more.

Can you force a non-k Intel CPU to run at max turbo multiplier even in all-core workloads? Or at least remove the power limits so that it always reaches the predefined boost clocks? Cause a 6c/12t i7 8700 running at 4.3GHz doesn't sound too shabby.

I know why that is. The Modmic is electrically pretty non-standard. Most standard microphone ports literally don't provide it with enough power to function correctly. The solution is to buy a cheap ADC. The cheapo Sabrent DAC+ADC USB thing goes for about eight bucks and will fix most Modmic issues.

It's supposed to go up to 4.6GHz single core turbo and 4.3 all core, but somehow I doubt it can maintain the 65W TDP with those frequencies under heavy loads. The reason I'm asking is because there's been lots of controversies lately around the "multicore enhancement" features that come enabled by default on some motherboards, though those are usually mentioned with regards to K CPUs. If you could actually turn that stuff on with a non-K, it'd make for a pretty compelling choice. Though I wouldn't be surprised to see the non-Ks fully locked down rather than just having a max multiplier limit.

I'm having trouble believing it manages to boost that high in all cases, I mean why else would they advertise 3.2 base clock?

Hmm, after searching for a while I finally came across a review (why are they so hard to find - did nobody buy this damn thing?), it claimed over 100W power consumption under full load. So basically it looks like even the non-k versions don't care about the TDP limits so they can reach those boost clocks.

The most wattage my CPU seems to take is 25-27W, keeping its boost clock at 3.8 most of the time. It's an I5 7500 Kaby Lake rated at 65W, so is this normal?

Deciding I want to enjoy 75Hz without paying for Nvidia's extortionate G-Sync I decided to get a Freesync monitor and upgrade from a Gigabyte GTX 970 to a Sapphire NITRO+ RX 580 8GB. I saw the Sapphire going on Amazon for £181.99 and went for that - it's still not been dispatched however and says I won't get it till either the end of this week or next week. With that in mind, I am seriously considering cancelling the order as I have since seen the Gigabyte model going on Overclockers for just £20 more, with the added bonus of two free game codes for RE2, DMC5 and the Division2. The latter doesn't interest me but this is a plus either way as even with RE2 already on order I'd still be getting DMC5 for £25 less than what it's on for pre-order at now. Is it worth cancelling the Amazon order and going for the Gigabyte or are there any substantial differences between the two?

If ya'll want to see how shitty DXR is on BF:V add me on steam and you can control my computer with parsec. I'll be back in a few hours, and it's generally a good idea to have latency under 60ms (probably want 30 tbh). I'm located near Seattle.

Alright, so. I tried Battlefield 1 and Far Cry 4 with my new PC. The most noticeable thing are micro stutters and I want to figure out why. In BF1 they are less frequent after I turned vsync off. In FC4 they are frequent with vsync off by default. Any ideas or info? I heard that Win 10 Creator's update caused problems for people with Nvidia GPUs (I don't think I have the update, tho?).

CPU/GPU? Are the clock speeds stable on the GPU/CPU while gaming or are they jumping around? Use afterburners in game overlay to verify.

Is there a difference between 3200 and 3000 ram? I'm thinking between this https://www.amazon.com/G-Skill-Ripjaws-PC4-25600-3200MHz-F4-3200C16D-16GVKB/dp/B015FXXBW0 https://www.bestbuy.com/site/corsair-vengeance-led-series-16gb-2pk-8gb-3-0ghz-ddr4-desktop-memory-with-led-lighting-black/5507128.p?skuId=5507128

So I got my Rx 570 Radeon gpu...but it turns out that it needs a 8 pin connector for power and my PSU may have only a 6 pin connector. This is the supply unit. http://www.coolermaster.com/service/support/model/RS-A00-AMBA-J3/ My motherboard to reinstate is a Sabertooth 990FX.

That's what I found out. That's what was connected to the nvidia 560gtx card. The new radeon looks like it requires a 8 pin connection. So there may be an option to use a adapter to make the psu connection work, but then again there was a hidden unused 4x2 connection with the psu but there was another like it connected to the CPU.

6+2 connectors are the same as 8 pin connectors though? I'm confused as to what your issue is.