• PC Building V5 "needs extra thermal paste"
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I think they are? I have a .hml file from a BF1 match I played, would you mind looking at it?
What does MSI afterburner show?
Playing a match right now and they seem to be stable. I also restarted my PC after doing this and so far I had no stutters.
https://i.imgur.com/jUdisvy.png If I get a GTX 1060 6GB could I expect to run Black Ops 4 at 900p 60fps with high or better settings? How important would upgrading mobo/ram/cpu be in comparison?
Great, my CPU and Mobo and a few other things were "Delivered" yesterday but there's no sign of them anywhere. I was hoping maybe they would show up today, but I got another package today with no sign of the missing parts. Has anybody had to deal with this before in the US? It's all Amazon. I'm not sure how long I'm willing to wait for a late delivery while $500+ worth of parts is just in the wind.
Contact them immediately. If it’s marked as delivered it’s not coming tomorrow. Either major shipping fuckup or someone walked off with your parts.
During the holiday seasons (esp around black Friday and Christmas) the amount of package thievery skyrockets.
It's been a while since I window shopped on pcpartpicker to keep up with hardware so I did that, with a budget limit of $1000 and some constraints: - Try to replace everything. - Prioritize external components/peripherals. - No rebates or discounts. Base Total: $999. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/LjMCvn Rationale for some choices made: 24"/4K/IPS: Programming(+GameDev), Art, HiDPI support development. AMD GPU: Linux. Components reused: Hard disks DVD drive Case What would be added with a bigger budget, ordered by importance: Drawing tablet CPU Cooling (likely a Noctua) Storage Case Better components I think It's a pretty good list but maybe I missed something. Thoughts?.
Having a bit of annoying trouble with Youtube playback on an Atom x5 Win10 tablet. My usual 1060@60 test video (a ~2:30 Trackmania "press forward" demo) runs horribly in Chrome on said tablet, dropping upwards of 700 frames out of the ~10,000 frame total. It plays back perfectly fine in Edge, and playback from local video files is fine too, so I don't think it's the hardware being slow. Is there a way to make sure Chrome is being hardware accelerated? Is there a decent Youtube app from the Win10 store that I can use instead?
Does it have a GPU section in task manager? Decode may be shown there.
It shows brief spikes of activity while buffering the video, but playback isn't using it at all as far as I can tell, which is strange Meanwhile in Edge, solid usage throughout, and zero dropped frames
Could always give alternate players a go. MPC-BE has YouTube playback support. MPV (the best option currently, IMO) has support as long as the Youtube-DL exe is provided to it.
Honestly if I'd have to do YT outside my browser, I'd prefer to do it in one of those universal apps (the ones from the store), since direct-stream programs don't let you browse subs or recommended, and that's a lot of what I do on Youtube these days. Any recommendations on those? I used Hyper way back in W8 but as far as I know they've completely gutted and rebranded it, so it's worthless to me now.
Whoa, that helped immensely. Dropped frames went from >700/10000 to <10/10000, about a percent of what it was before Granted it does KO all the 1440p+ options but this tab is 1080p so it doesn't matter Have a diamond
i think 24" is a bit small for 4k, 27 or 32 is a better choice imo
Update: My packages showed up on my front porch today, one was open but taped back shut. I checked my security camera and a random guy in a truck just came and dropped them off. I guess somebody got them by mistake and took them to the right address... after opening one and seeing an M.2 SSD I guess they weren't interested?
That specific choice is a tough one. There's no 4K monitors around here so I can't really see for myself if a size that small is overkill. Forever going for higher and higher DPI would be hypocritical when I believe that for audio 44.1 KHz/16-bit is enough. But to accept that I had to be "sure" that there is no difference when going higher (rather than "you _may_ not hear a difference"). At a minimum; unhinted, anti-aliased black on white text at arbitrary sizes, positions and rotations shouldn't look worse than the same text in print at the same viewing distance (about an arm's length). But what resolution at what size would that be?. I don't really know so I blindly picked that monitor to err on the side of caution. Software support for scaling is not a concern in this hypothetical scenario. An example: https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/140792/d70118c3-0f67-43e3-8f1b-5c2d72525939/small_text.png (Notice the lack of sharpness; what should be solid black is grey) Closer look (Thumbnailed for convenience): https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/140792/0300d4b5-aa05-452d-b75d-6aa3dcd8fd6c/big_text.png
1440p is the resolution sweet spot right now for most people. 4K is cool for productivity on a big-ass display but it doesn't make sense for gaming and will make UI elements too small on smaller display sizes.
Hm, that's a more gamer-oriented build, which has different priorities. I've got several questions about it: What makes the Crucial SSD a better pick?. (IMO it's a better brand but that can't be the only reason) What about the motherboard; it's more expensive but it has largely the same specs. (VRMs?, Would you be OC the CPU?) The monitor is larger, more expensive and has less resolution while still being 60 Hz, I checked and it seems there isn't really a "good" monitor for around that price so maybe for gaming it would be better to drop to 1080p/120Hz+ (that wasn't a question but this text here is?)
Bought a 1TB Crucial MX500 and a SanDisk 256GB Ultra CZ48 for Cyber Monday, what did you buy?
The sadness of not having a headphone jack. https://s.gvid.me/s/2018/11/26/Mbk684.png
It entirely doable until your dongle breaks. That's my only true downfall of not having a headphone jack.
$900 phone, I want to charge + watch shit (It gets SUPER slow at work during winter). So it's either I get a $40 dongle, or just spend $100 and get some Pixel buds. I'm probably going to just hotspot my current 6P for watching shit, doesn't wear out the newer OLED panel in the P3XL.
I've been out of the game for too long, modern naming conventions for graphics cards no longer make sense to me. Is it possible to buy a graphics card that can play Prey '17 on max settings for under $300?
At what resolution and what target frame-rate? If 1080@60, then just about any mid-range card will do. I recommend the RX580, they're going for cheap from just about any AiB partner right now, around $200. If you can spend $50 more, go for a Vega 56, a few around $340-350 on Newegg right now. Should serve you @ 1080P for years to come.
I just got my EVGA 1080ti FTW3 and it keeps crashing on games after a short time playing. I can't seem to figure out why this is happening.
I just decided to look up when I bought this and I got it for $20 cheaper over 3 years ago. Are monitor prices that stagnant?
I was considering switching out the 1TB HDD in my PS4 Pro out for an equivalent or bigger SSD, does this seem like a worthwhile upgrade idea to you guys?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OP0tgY4vmM
Trying to make the best out of a 27in 1440p 144hz monitor, should I wait for nvidia to start producing 1080tis again or am i gonna have to take an rTx 2080 for now? 1080tis are ludicrously expensive rn (new)
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