Yep those are the ones, thank you I will check that!
I can't remember if you got an AMD or Intel CPU but in your BIOS the option will show up to enable either XMP or DOCP. They're the same thing.
AMD, yeh
Alright so my Bios had 2 A-XMP options, option 1 on left and option 2 on right. Which should I use?
https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/109712/6870bafc-7894-4ead-987e-6eeb0f30de47/options.png
Option 2 looks better to me, a 1T Command Rate is better than 2T; also the frequency is higher, with no changes to the significant latency values.
What's the best way to clean computer screens?
The temps are acceptable, but depending on the exact cpu/cooler/overclock you're running, you could do better.
I was thinking of getting a beefy laptop for when I go back to uni next year, since I'm going to be travelling around a lot. Capable of gaming, editing and general everyday use. Capable of going in my bag and travelling around with me. Was thinking DELL Inspiron 15-5577 with i7 7700HQ, 8GB, 128GB SSD and 1TB HDD. It's got a 4GB 1050 in it. It's a refurb that's listed as "Refurbished As New (Unused)". Would cost about £650, so like... not unattainable but still a very big chunk of money. The machine has the capacity for more RAM and a bigger 2.5 inch drive too, plus the SSD is M.2.
In hindsight, my full tower machine might have been a bit of a mistake...
Do you have a gaming desktop already? If so, I would spring for something with Thunderbolt 3, so you can get a TB3 eGPU enclosure and bring your desktop's GPU with you.
A decent laptop with TB3 would be about the same or less than most laptops with a 1050ti built in, and it would let you upgrade that GPU later at your leisure.
Some variance is normal, but yeah 10 degrees is higher than what you'd typically see. Could be due to intel toothpaste under the IHS. Or it could also be a bad mounting job. You can try remounting it if you feel like it, but otherwise I don't think there's much to worry about.
Odd, I've read a fair few Amazon reviews and constantly see people say things like " it feels sturdy and solid". I play a bunch really varying from obscure indies to the biggest games ever, the most demanding games are going to be big AAA titles like AC Odyssey. My everyday is mucking about in Overwatch, Quake Champions and Monster Hunter World. I also edit videos, which requires a certain level of processing and graphics power.
heads up this is the closest Garry has gotten to saying he's going to shut down FP
emergency CIPWTTKT/h&s discord here
https://discord.gg/GqQ4NEx
I'm thinking of making the jump from 8GB to 16GB of DDR3, am I better off going 4x4 or 2x8? I'm using 2x4 at the moment but looking at a few decent second hand offers so I'd rather go with the most optimised setup, mobo is an ASUS P8Z77-V LX
4x4 would give you quad channel access, but you need to make sure all four sticks are working and can withstand repeated stress testing.
Twice as many components that could potentially fail, after all.
Quad channel? That's a Z77 board, dual channel only as pretty much every Intel consumer board is.
I have a lapped ,soldered IHS Xeon X5660 that at 1.4v will see upto a 35-40c difference between core 6 and core 3/4. Yes that's 98c(probably overtemp too) during a synthetic P95 vs 65-70c on other cores at the same time. My X5675 is only like a 15c difference at the same voltage. Intel's solder isn't always great, and on a larger die it was much worse. While bad solder will beat good paste like every time, issues like this is probably part of why they thought ditching solder was a good idea for consumer products.
80c isn't anything special on Intel, they're literally designed to peg out 100c and throttle back as stupid as it seems. As long as it stays under 80c during normal use(not synthetics like P95), your cooling is "perfectly safe". You can definitely try reapplying the paste, but it's probably the junk paste under the IHS or you just didn't get a good cpu. Pretty much everything after Ivy Bridge doesn't take well to a P95, 4790K's are notorious for P95 causing shut downs, insane temps and probably even some dead cpus. I'm pretty sure either Haswell or Devils Canyon brought the AVX offset stuff which dips the multiplier to prevent the previous issues. Or maybe Skylake or Broadwell brought that, dunno.
I would recommend to use Aida64 or OCCT for any sort of long term testing, P95 is okay if you just want to see the cpu get as hot as possible but it's fallen much out of favor. Cinebench is pretty good for a more realistic heavy workload test, it can be a pain if you score too high though since the tests will go faster. Otherwise, just logging temps during some gaming or doing like Firestike, Heaven Benchmark, Timespy, ect. will work for checking more standard load temps too.
DDR3 doesn't always find large performance increases past 1600, 2000mhz is usually too much for it and the latency is junk or you paid wayy too much for your DDR3. 1866 isn't bad but I've generally found(on my systems) you can tighten down the latency on 1600 enough to have similar performance anyways. It will also depend on your platform, later DDR3 platforms will find more performance here generally too. The cost of high end DDR3 is usually not worth it when mid range DDR3 is anywhere from acceptable prices to what's basically free+shipping $3 2GB 1333mhz ECC Registered DDR3. AMD platforms usually support single rank ECC Unbuffered which if you just need some extra ram can be really cheap but you can often even find them for like $15 for a 4GB 1866mhz stick. Otherwise, you're pretty much limited to your standard gaming/mainstream/enthusiast ram.
Also be aware, there is DDR3 and DDR3L. DDR3L is low voltage DDR3. Some motherboards support one or the other, some both, ect. You could probably mix them since normal DDR3 can be overvolted fairly far and DDR3L will do 1.5v but you really shouldn't and don't need to.
If you already have cheap ram, a higher end 16gb kit would be the better route and then to sell off or repurpose your current ram. If you have a decent kit already, i'd just pair it with either something that was a really good deal or something similar to what you already have. Not spending too much on used, old ram that will soon be made worthless anywhere but drug fueled craigslist and ebay posting by DDR5, would be my main concern overall though. DDR4 is cheaper now too. If you're paying more for DDR3 than you can get new DDR4 for, you should consider if an upgrade would benefit you more.
Oof, yeah my mistake, I overlooked the board ID (and am used to quad channel being a given, in my line of work)
Should I go for a R3 1200 and OC it to 3.7 or get a R5 1400 and keep it stock? I've seen vids on how a GTX 1060 will perform almost the same with both and I plan to pair my CPU with a 1050 Ti
Is the 2200G a bit harder to OC since it also has the GPU? I think it also doesn't have solder so I think it would run a bit hotter
I'll most probably use 2400Mhz RAM
Yeah I'll wait to see what is cheaper by the end of the year, maybe even the 1400 will be cheap by then
I'm a little confused. Currently running 16GB of Vengeance LPX at stock settings, no timing tweaks or anything, and out of nowhere I keep getting MEMORY_MANAGEMENT bluescreens.
I've repeatedly stress tested all 16GB, switched the positions of the sticks, everything, and I still occasionally get hit with that despite the clean bill of health. It's never the same thing that triggers it either, which makes me think it's unlikely to be software related. What's up, here? Am I missing something?
I have a HDD and an SSD, currently my SSD only has my OS on it and my HDD has literally everything else. I was planning on upgrading my HDD to an SSD, what's the best method of transferring everything?
If you can, install both in your system at once, and simply copy the root directory over. Outright cloning or imaging an HDD to an SSD can lead to cache and structure weirdness if you don't use the right software or settings, since data is arranged and accessed inherently differently on an SSD; copying the files to it via Windows will let the SSD's controller orient everything in the best way it can, and it'd let you continue using your computer (and all the stuff you're copying over) in the meantime.
If this isn't possible, there are software utilities with features specifically geared towards HDD>SSD migration. I'll have to take some time to compile a list.
Should I make a separate thread for a PC build I'm considering? Would like tips / suggestions. Or should I just drop it here?
This is the PC building thread and if you have a question or suggestion about your build then this is the right thread.
It might get more attention in here, honestly.
Alright. I originally posted in reddit (https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/9nvf1p/possible_pc_build_have_questions_comments_would/?), so I'll just shorten my post.
tl;dr building a PC for atleast 1080p@60FPS gaming and some programming. I multi-task, have lots of stuff / tabs open.
Current build:
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 1700, Octo Core, 3.70GHz, 20MB, AM4, 65W, 14nm, BOX
Motherboard: MSI B450 GAMING PRO CARBON AC, AM4, 4xDDR4, 3 PCI-Ex1, 6xSATA3, 2 M.2, 6xUSB3.1
Case: FRACTAL DESIGN Define C TG
RAM: G.Skill Trident Z DDR4 16GB (2x8GB) 3200MHz CL14 1.35V XMP 2.0 (Model number: F4-3200C14D-16GTZ)
PSU: Cooler Master V series 650W, 80Plus Gold, Full Modular, Single +12V Rail/ Inteligent 120mm FAN/ High efficiency up to 92% / Active PFC PSU 650 W, 648 W
GPU: Graphics Card | GIGABYTE | NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070 | 8 GB | 256 bit | PCIE 3.0 16x | GDDR5 | Memory 8008 MHz | GPU 1506 MHz | Dual Slot Fansink | 1xDVI | 1xHDMI | 3xDisplayPort | GV-N1070WF2-8GDV2
SSD: Samsung 860 Evo 250
HDD: WD Black 3.5'' 1TB SATA3 7200RPM 64MB
Approx. total price: €1,400.
I am not interested in overclocking.
Now, sorry if I mixed something up in the build, been reading all week and frankly I'm a bit burned out.
I have a few questions about this build:
Is any part overkill? (e.g. the motherboard, I've looked at it's specs / features and it seems like it's more for overclockers).
Will this motherboard support the RAM? I checked MSI's website and the model number is not there, but this https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/62vp2g/clearing_up_any_samsung_bdie_confusion_eg_on/ thread says otherwise.
FRACTAL DESIGN Define C TG or Meshify C? They seem identical. Any major differences?
Basically this. All suggestions / tips / recommendations / criticism appreciated <3. Thank you.
I'll deliver all my thoughts in a big chunk.
-The motherboard is not overkill. If anything, it's a little underkill. If you're getting a B450 motherboard, probably get the MSI Tomahawk, it's one of the few B450 boards with decent VRMs. If not, pretty much all X370 and X470 motherboards are safe bets for quality, but look at Asus' offerings first.
-I don't think the CPU fits your use case very well. You live in a very different country from me so I don't know what pricing is like, but the 1700's performance in gaming is a little bit lacking, while its workstation performance is probably a little bit overkill for your use case. If the price is comparable or less, a 2600 or 2600X fits your use case a lot better. Better gaming performance and not as much multi-threaded performance that you won't be really using.
-Motherboard QVLs are not totally inclusive, they can't test everything. However, I can tell you that I have the exact same RAM kit in the machine I'm currently typing this on, and it works fine with my Ryzen 5 2600X. Trident Z is known to have very good compatibility with Ryzen 2000, but I think it's a little bit hit and miss with Ryzen 1000. Don't quote me on that.
-The Define C and Meshify C have identical tooling, the Meshify C simply has a mesh front panel instead of a solid one. The Define C is theoretically a little bit quieter, and the Meshify C lets you cool your PC more effectively. It's up to you, they're both very good cases. I have a Meshify C and adore it.
-PSU is a quality choice but it's overkill, the 1070 is not a power hungry card. My 1080 gets by just fine on a 520W PSU, with some headroom for overclocking as well. The V550 or a comparable Seasonic unit would work just as well for you and at a lower price.
Everything else looks great to me.
Thanks for your thoughts.
I just wanted to ask, is it really a big deal to look into detail about VRMs and shit if I'm just gonna run everything on stock (I've read about them, interesting stuff)? I don't have enough technical knowledge to do the math myself looking at differences between the Carbon Pro and Tomahawk at the moment. Also, how is the motherboard underkill? I don't know what I should look for in another motherboard, besides checking VRMs and slots or whatever.
Speaking simply, I am not even a hardcore gamer or anything, I'd just like to try the newest games without any lag. I haven't been able to for a long time. I might not even stick with them. On the other hand, I just want a quality build that will last me a long time. I don't know. Sorry, tired.
Thanks again.
Thanks for bringing this up. A lot of people overestimate the importance of VRMs, thanks in particular to Buildzoid, a really great reviewer that places particular emphasis on overclocking and power delivery. The reality is that pretty much any VRM is going to handle a CPU at stock speeds just fine, and they're only really a major concern for overclockers. However, you're doing a Ryzen build, and Ryzen's automatic overclocking and boost algorithm is actually pretty extreme and can easily be limited by a weaker VRM array. I want you to be able to get all the performance you can get out of your CPU. You don't need a top of the line one, though, far from it.
I always recommend X470 boards over B450 boards for Ryzen 2000 CPUs, for the simple reason that X470 can squeeze an extra 200-ish MHz out of your CPU boost clocks compared to B450, and that can net you some extra FPS in CPU-locked gaming scenarios. And X470 boards generally are safer buys with fewer QC issues.
I'd recommend X470 to you specifically because you want to keep your build for quite a while. The extra 200MHz could make a difference at some point in the future.
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PC Building V5 "needs extra thermal paste"
