PC Building Thread V6 - "running six RGB controller utilities at once" edition
292 replies, posted
Hey all, welcome to the PC Building thread. Want to build or upgrade? No problem, this is the place.
pcpartpicker.com – A fantastic resource for both comparing prices from many websites and doing some basic compatibility checks. The best part of all is that this site is available in many different regions and countries
Here are two excellent guides for the actual assembly of a system. It's actually fairly easy, and following a good guide like one of these, the chances to mess something up are extremely slim.
An excellent step-by-step guide using pictures, it is cleanly laid out and easy to follow
This is a multi-part Newegg YouTube series that is very long and comprehensive. Part 1 Part 2 Part 3
UserBenchmark is an incredible site, and while not scientific, it's a fantastic way to get a vague feel for how different parts compare to each other in a wide variety of synthetic workloads. Make sure to contribute to it as well by downloading and running the benchmark itself!
General Building/Component Tips
-If you get hung up on any details, go ahead and ask. No question is stupid in the realm of blowing $1k on a new system.
-Watch the quality of your PSU. It's not going to give you any extra performance, but a poor quality PSU can cause unnecessary stress on your component, causing them to age faster. Seasonic and rebrands such as XFX and Rosewill Capstone are excellent buys, as are SuperFlower units (and accompanying rebrand of the EVGA G2 series) and finally Delta units, most commonly they are found in Antec boxes. Check out the Antec HCP if you're in the market for a top notch PSU with high wattage. And please don't get a Corsair CX.
-Watch out for motherboard compatibility. An 1150/1155 socket motherboard does NOT mean it will work out of the box with every CPU that fits. You need to watch out for refeshes and "ticks" in the architecture. Luckily, the AMD side of things is more forgiving, an AM4 socket will work just fine with any Ryzen-branded CPU. Just make sure to update the BIOS first.
-A good case can make or break a long term build. A good case is a dream to build in, and can both increase airflow and ease the process, while a bad case can bend, and leave some nasty cuts.
-Don't listen to just one person for your build if you've got time to wait. People have biases, and can miss some nice deals that just dropped. Even Kiwi.
-Watch out for motherboard compatibility. An 1150/1155 socket motherboard does NOT mean it will work out of the box with every CPU that fits. You need to watch out for refeshes and "ticks" in the architecture.
-Check your motherboard's QVL, especially for Ryzen. This will ensure that your high-frequency RAM will actually be able to hit those advertised clocks. Ryzen 2000 does much better with RAM compatibility than Ryzen 1000 did but there are still snags in the way.
-Water coolers only make sense in fairly uncommon and unusual situations. Please stop buying them unless you know why you're buying one.
-Don't forget to please enable XMP/DOCP. Your fancy high-frequency RAM will run at stock 1333 MHz speeds without it.
-Intel CPUs, as of January 2019, have a very specific niche, and that is Adobe applications and high-refresh-rate gaming, above 200 FPS or so. Ryzen is almost always a much better deal outside of those use cases, and even then they do well enough in those scenarios.
Recommended Power Supply Models
Here's just a quick list of model names that are generally recommended for a great quality unit that should last a long time without issues.
Seasonic: m12/S12/S12G/S12-II, XFX: TS/XTR/PRO, Superflower: Any, EVGA: G2/P2/T2/GS, Antec: HCG/TruePowerClassic/Earthwatts Green/Edge/HCP
There used to be a bunch of recommended builds here but they weren't super up-to-date and I don't really believe in "suggested builds," so I've left them out. http://www.logicalincrements.com/ is a really good jumping-off point, though.
Also check out the featured builds on pcpartpicker!
Please DM me, @AtomicSans , with any suggestions to improve this OP. I've only given it a quick once-over here, tweaking and adding small things.
I don't like the build guides on PCpartpicker. They use filters to pick the cheapest motherboards and SSDs possible, which is a pretty terrible idea.
That's a good point, I wrote that fairly thoughtlessly. I'll come up with something better.
So uhh, what's the deal with the GTX 1160 I keep hearing about? Why would they make something like that when the 2060 is a thing?
The only case I can see it making sense is using it in budget gaming laptops and gaming-focused AIOs, where stuff like RT and DLSS are less important to the average buyer.
I would. I have no plans of getting a 4k monitor so DLSS is completely worthless to me. And I'm not interested in any of the games with RT support, nor would I want to sacrifice framerate for that feature.
You have to remember that RT and Tensor cores add a lot to the die size, so the GPUs become more expensive to produce. And not everyone wants to pay for that.
The raytracing and tensor cores on top of all the usual functional units you'd find inside a GPU have turned Turing into a very fat, expensive to manufacture chip. Since it doesn't make sense to bring the RTX features to lower-end cards, they need to fill out the lower-end, cheaper part of the lineup with something else. So they could make a separate Turing chip without the RT + tensor cores which would be a lot smaller and cheaper to manufacture. Or maybe it's just gonna be a rebrand of the 1060 with slightly higher clocks and a lower price, just so they can respond to the 590.
I dunno how well this card does thermal wise, but I'm glad to see some card makers are getting inventive with cooling ideas for their cards.
Self contained LQ is actually really clever, why has no one done that before
Seems kinda silly to me, some of the main advantages of liquid cooling are that you can have much bigger radiators and blast heat directly out of the case. Here they're basically just replacing passive phase-change thermal transfer (heatpipes) with active coolant circulation. I'm not sure if there's any significant benefit to doing that. I'd love to see how a massive triple-slot traditional air cooler compares to this.
I think the only benefit is the higher thermal mass. Which will make temperatures and frequencies more stable.
There's one game which uses RTX and one game that uses DLSS and we're 4 months in? The former only until recently was nearly unplayable on highest settings on a $1300 RTX card. The assumption is that there's been some driver improvements and Dice "optimized" the RTX settings. No one knows what's going on with the back end, the massive FPS increases could literally be because they made the highest settings more like the previous medium settings or something.
By the time any meaningful amount of games start existing with RTX and DLSS features, the next series of RTX cards will be dropping and you can be sure we'll have to see some Ti refreshes and massive price cuts before then. Nvidia moves more 1050 Ti's and 1060's than the high end combined, when the massive overpriced overstock of these runs out do you expect them to abandon this market entirely? The demand for cards is high, people want new hardware but the price of the same performance has only gone up since 2016.
No, they optimized it anf fixed some bugs.
It is not noisier or renders fewer reflections.
It's insane how well things get documented and compared these days, so it seems it's a lot of Dice's fault for the implementation. The videos I watched of the fps increase were awful comparisons compared to that one.
I was browsing local used PC parts and a guy wants to throw in some ddr3 8gb (2*4gb) for just a few bucks extra with some other stuff I found. If I already have 16gb (2*8gb), could I put 2*4gb in the other slots and still get dual channel? It's all ddr3 1600.
Looking to upgrade my CPU Heatsink with something not to big, quick and easy to install. I won't be overclocking but the stock cooler in there currently lets the thing get to the mid 80C range under load and I'd like to knock it down 10-20C if possible without breaking the bank. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Cryorig H7, quiet and cools very well for an excellent price. Not super tiny though.
They seem to be having some supply problems, it's often out of stock or overpriced.
I'd say go for the roughly equivalent be quiet! Pure Rock, then.
@Tarzy What CPU are you cooling with this?
currently struggling not to upgrade to an i7-8700k and a new mobo from my i5-6600k.
mainly because my mobo is a piece of shit budget asus board and there is little point upgrading an old socket mobo by itself.
that, and I just bought a new windowed case and my PC looks like shit. not interested in playing above 1080/144hz at the minute so my 970 is fine.
with this in mind, is there anything I can do to spice up my aesthetic WITHOUT splashing on a new mobo (and thus new CPU) or some ridiculous bullshit like dummy RAM modules?
I mean, I'll be upgrading eventually but my last jump was 2500k - 6600k. 6600k - 8700k seems a bit premature.
The 8700k is not compatible with the same motherboards as the 6600k
The 6600k can use z170 and z270 boards
The 8700k can use z370 and z390 boards.
I'm just using a stock Intel cooler that was like 8 bucks, worked well enough in my last build and I never seemed to break mid 70C with it but I guess when I upgraded I turned up the beast in this thing. It's mounted firmly and the thermal paste isn't the issue.
I see Newegg is stocked for their Cryorig H7 so I think I'll give 'er a go, it looks like it'll do perfectly dude.
Thanks a bunch for the quick help, it's greatly appreciated
Ok so my buddy's pc keeps locking up and needing a hard reboot, So far he tried taking each of his ram sticks out, different gpu, different psu, driver reset, and windows reinstall. Any other reason is keeps doing it.
Cheap motherboards have a tendency to cause freezes and lockups in Windows. Does it do this only under load, or does it sometimes happen during web browsing or idling?
He has the Asus B450 Strix. It does happen sometimes during browsing, but its mostly under load during gameplay.
It's specifically some of the worse B450 motherboards that do this, I'm sorry to say. You've covered most of the other bases so I think that's the culprit.
Got a nice pair of speakers yesterday, everything working out fine except for the fact that the voltage from my PC is bleeding into my speakers so I gotta buy a whole nother thing to eliminate the voltage noise.
Funny because the reason I found out was because I loaded up a game that went up to 1000+ fps on the menus and that loud coil whine that can happen was coming straight thru the speakers which gave me a good laugh.
That happened on my old Pentium III PC. Moving the mouse across the screen would make the speakers whine, and the faster I moved the mouse the higher the pitch would be, good times.
People give shit to the 9700k but imo that would be far more worth your money for the slight increase in price.
It happens with pretty much any integrated soundcard that isn't properly shielded. You get to hear the wonders of EM interference in its full glory.
Mine has a decent amount of random noise as a baseline, but then there's an additional, louder buzzing noise that's affected by the GPU. Its frequency is proportional to the framerate and the amplitude to the power draw, and it pretty much exactly mirrors the coil whine from the GPU. Makes the occasional 2kFPS loading screens pretty "fun".
Wasn't even integrated. Happened on an old Creative Soundblaster. But it sure wasn't shielded.
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