PC Building Thread V6 - "running six RGB controller utilities at once" edition
999 replies, posted
You did install NZXT's CAM software right? You should have control over the pump and attached fans through it's software, the only bitch is the software always has to load in either a "guest profile", or you make an account to log in to see other things like recorded game statistics and etc, but jesus fucking christ is this implementation shit, it's half the reason I want to swap out my Kraken X42 into something else.
Can someone recommend an affordable NAS?
Yep, both are on fans and pump are on 'performance' mode.
I reseated it and made sure those settings are in effect so I'll try FC again tonight and see where it's at. But looking online tells me that it getting hotter than 60c under load is really not good for a watercooler. I'm really not sure why this would be happening. My 6600k was ~20 idle and never went that high underload with a corsair watercooler. Though that same cooler was having the same shitty high results on my 9700k
Oh awesome, that's a great motherboard with the high end 16 phase VRM. The 3gb 1060 would do fine in it.
You should be pretty set if you have a good cooler, load on the vcore voltage like 1.3-1.425v until you hit the limit of your cooler or the silicon. Enable LLC, don't exceed 1.35v on the QPI/VTT/IMC or whatever asus calls it or you will likely degrade your IMC. Dial back your uncore down to like 10-12x for stability, set the QPI multi to the slowest since you're overclocking via base clock. Give it like 200x23 for 4.6ghz and see where it's happy and stable.
After you confirm vcore stability with a longer stress test, you can raise your uncore back up. Uncore will find you a lot of performance and usually shows pretty well in Cinebench so between tweaking settings just hit it with a Cinebench to see if you're getting a performance improvement. The uncore for me has been a touch of a nightmare as I had three different things intermittently causing instabilities and the Uncore does not cause consistent instability, you could see weeks to months between blue screens depending on how close you are to the limit of your silicon then get 3-4 in a single day.
You might end up touching the QPI PLL and IOH Core voltages, these two should match. Setting them both to 1.2v would is safe but it's not always needed. The CPU PLL, no one can really decide if it should go up or down. Some people lower it, some people raise it. I personally raise it. It's just something else to try if you're on the edge of stability. As far as voltages though, those are the ones which you should really ever have to touch. Everything else is just multipliers, clocks and trying to make it happy. Most mild overclocks can be handled with just dumping in some vcore, adjusting the uncore and calling it good. With that motherboard though, you should easily see the limit of your silicon.
I'd also get familiar with some of the basics of the platform, there's tons of X58 and Westmere Xeon overclocking guides. Just remember though your Westmere Xeon is not a Nehalem i7 and a couple voltages are a little different, most notably the heavy recommendation to never exceed 1.35v on the IMC/QPI/Uncore/VTT. Everything else is pretty lax, it's very unlikely you'll see anything else meaningfully degrade within it's useful lifespan unless you're dumping a couple tenths of a volt over intel spec into stuff.
Linus Tech Tips and Overclock.net both have fairly active X58 Xeon overclocking threads/communities. I find OCN to be a little more straight laced with some slightly less friendly but very very knowledgeable people who will occasionally dispense knowledge that's just so in-depth you won't even know how to apply it, LTT has a bunch of EVGA SR2 owners and a couple people who on the extreme end have binned out like a hundred xeons and overclock them until they degrade on dry ice.
It's also recommended on X58 motherboards to never use the Sata3, it's through an add-in Marvell controller on the pci-e bus and it's fucking awful. Disable it and plug your SSD into Sata 0. You'll also want to enable AHCI, since that was not standard yet and if you need USB3 front panel for your case you're gonna need something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Express-Controller-Internal-Connector/dp/B00JFR2H64/
I'm getting my money sorted this month after a huge stretch of big payments.
A PC is now no longer a pipe dream
Perhaps even better, I'll probably have about 150 this month to throw around.
Yeah not a huge amount, but if I just want to something like Fallout 4, it isn't act too bad
Besides the fact I don't care about running games at 6k at 10,000FPS
Do you guys know any resources I can use that don't automatically assume I have £3k to burn on a PC?
One last dumb ass AIO question - the whole push v pull thing is confusing me a little bit. Right now, I have it set up so that the fans are attached to the top of my case, blowing air out of the top of the case, and the radiator is sitting underneath them. Is this a valid configuration? Should I have the fans attached to the case sucking air in, onto the radiator below? Should I have the fans under the radiator, sucking air into it, or underneath pushing air through the radiator, out of the case?
The front of my case isn't really open, and there's nowhere to put a fan on the bottom.
(it is a corsair 450d for reference)
What do you mean, it already comes with 2x 140 intakes?
https://www.corsair.com/medias/sys_master/images/images/h9f/hbd/9110585835550/-CC-9011049-WW-Gallery-450D-013.png
Looks pretty open to me, it's set up that way for a good reason. Just make sure that the rear fan is blowing out, a low of heat builds up in the area around the GPU and you want to get that out of the case rather than blow it around and have it warm up the entire machine.
Yeah, I suspect that'll be my best option.
But if you know other ways, please let me know.
Mine isn't open like that on the front, it's closed. They must have an updated version of it. I wonder if I can just buy a new plate for the front? It does come off pretty easily.
It can still do 2x 120/140 in the front, so that's what you'll have to work with, even if it's a little choked by that front panel. Still better to have those fans there than not have them at all.
a reasonable pc would still be a pipe dream if all you have to throw at it is 150 pounds, an okay-ish gaming pc would be around 400-500$ so ~200$ is going to be really rough, especially for fallout 4 (if you do get a setup, it'll probably be running at 720p 30fps on lowest settings)
you'll have to buy used from craigslist or ebay or w/e else, but you'll have to do research to see if what you're buying would be worth it, so it'll be pretty time consuming to say the least
Okay, I should have added more information to that, that's my bad
I'm not looking to buy a WHOLE PC for 150, even I know that's not worth it.
I'm part shopping, I'm looking for PARTS to start building my PC and I'm getting about 150 A MONTH.
Should have explained that better, sorry.
Unless you have a decent knowledge of used parts, how much they're worth and how they perform and live in an area where the used market is actually viable. It's gonna be pretty tough since ebay is generally scam level overpriced for used hardware. It's hard to recommend anything because just because someone found a LGA775 motherboard and ram for $25, shoved a $10 ebay xeon with a sticker over some pins and overclocked it to match like a 5 year old i5, it doesn't mean you can always find anything remotely similar.
If you just want the easy cheap performance, buy something used/pre-built with an i7 in it. Get a gpu and a power supply then throw a $20 120gb ssd into it and call it a day. Be aware though, most prebuilts use proprietary motherboards, cases and power supplies. Most standard size towers will still take a standard ATX power supply, these dells do but you will need to buy a special 24pin to 8 pin connector to use a standard power supply or add a video card.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dell-Optiplex-7010-MT-i7-3770-16GB-RAM-1TB-HDD-3-4Ghz-AMD-Radeon-7570-1GB/283346586795
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dell-Optiplex-7020-Desktop-i7-4790-3-60GHz-4GB-DDR3-500GB-Win-10-64-bit-WiFi/233134319181
As far as graphics cards, I wouldn't recommend buying anything under $60-80. The moment you step down from the $100 price range where high end 4GB cards like the GTX 970, RX 570 and the like are currently sitting. Going down just $20-30 almost halves your performance. As soon as you go down to about $50 it often becomes useless for anything remotely modern and quickly becomes a video output that doubles as a 200w heater. The market is so broken though that new AMD cards are selling for cheaper than used 5 year old Nvidia pascal cards with the same performance.
I don't get it, are you trying to slowly upgrade the PC you already have part by part, or do you need to build everything from scratch?
If it's the latter option and you can set aside 150 a month, then save up for a few months till you have ~600 and then start buying stuff. By that time, the GTX 1660 and Zen 2 will probably be out already, RAM and SSD prices will probably continue falling, etc. It's hard to give any solid advice right now because by the time you have the money, the situation will have changed significantly.
I'd have up untill you have about £750 and probably look at Ryzen 3XXX, and whatever Navi or Nvidia GTX is out by then.
How badly am I handicapping my system by using 2x8 GB 2400 MHz RAM sticks with my Ryzen 5 1600? I've got an ASRock B350M and it's only rated up to 2400MHz so I just got the highest freq it's rated for before I found out that Ryzen likes higher freq RAM.
Am I going to see any significant FPS increase in games? I haven't noticed my system being "slow" by all means.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U4k_ErEg-FU
You can probably overclock your memory to at least 2800.
Another idea is to watch for certain parts like the case, power supply, ssd's and the gpu and try to get them as they go on sale.
If you can wait until July/August, Zen 2 is probably coming out on 7/7. We won't see Navi or any new gpus other than the GTX 1660 until late 2019 so waiting for the GTX 1660 Ti pricing and performance before buying AMD's 4-5 year old Polaris offerings would probably be a good idea.
its all good in the hood
im not anywhere near a computer expert considering my knowledge honestly comes from me wanting to build my own computer which started around 6 months ago (and now ive done it and it all worked out)
but if you're getting 150 a month, save it. You don't want to buy computer parts over a huge stretch because if one ends up not working, you may be SOL when it comes to instant replace warranty stuff. Not to mention deals come and go. Also depends on when you want it, because black friday/cyber monday deals are pretty nice, but you'd end up waiting until pretty much the end of next year before getting your parts. GTX 1160 is coming out soon-ish which should be a nice budget card, but who knows what amd is gonna come out with. It also depends on your budget as a whole, how long you're planning on saving up cash. Theres plenty of budget guides https://pcpartpicker.com/guide/ and https://www.logicalincrements.com/ are the places I started, along with buildapc reddit to see what other people posted at with the price range I was going for.
Okay, that's good to know. I'm running a 1060 6GB anyways so my takeaway from the video is I'm probably going to be GPU bottlenecked before seeing any significant gains from higher frequency ram. Thanks!
well yea, its all just a starting off point, looking at what actual users purchase and build is good as well
What are some good closed loop coolers? Looking for good price\performance, gonna cool a 9700k oc'd (not crazy clocked tho)
The EVGA CLC 240 is an excellent contender for its low price. It's not very popular because some people think it's ugly, but who cares, it's a fantastic performer.
That does look good, and should match since I have a EVGA GPU
If you're not concerned about the 5 year warranty, you can save like $30-40 buying it via EVGA's B-Stock.
https://www.evga.com/products/productlist.aspx?type=8&family=Cooling&chipset=CPU+Closed+Loop+Cooler
Is there a reliability issue? What if I don't have the hardware to install? I got my GPU B-Stock it came with nothing at all, but it worked out since there's not much needed. I did have to RMA my first card since it was P-Much DOA.
I never had a CLC before, so I just want to make sure I get it right lol
Anyone know where I can get two of these blocks?
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc1080-gtx-ftw-nickel
They're end of life'd so they aren't selling them anymore. Google is only finding me 1080 Ti ones or FTW2 which has a different PCB.
For the ease of mind for more longterm reliability Ill probably just get the new one. Thanks!
Aaand my psu just went pop, wonderful.
What brand and wattage?
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