• PC Building Thread V6 - "running six RGB controller utilities at once" edition
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Atrix 550watt, the fan has been making grinding noises for months now so I assumed it would happen sooner or later
Is there a MSI Equivalent? I don't mind a another brand I just have a preference with MSI lol
Ah okay is there a specific reason, I never owned anything gigabyte. I can get that Gaming Edge AC for 169.99 at my local Fry's electronics since they do price match.
@Flak Performance-pcs has some. They're low stock so you should act fast. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?o=ek-fc1080-gtx-ftw-nickel&q=ek-fc1080-gtx-nickel This search link delivers basically all the gtx 1080 waterblocks but yeah.
Also for anyone interested B&HPhoto has the 9700K at $418 with Free shipping and no Sales tax (atleast for me). It was the only place other than newegg in stock.
Turns out when my psu died it took the motherboard, cpu, and a stick of ram out with it. Anyone wanna loan shark me?
Not to disparage you, but for people reading, this is primo example of why you don't fuck around with power supplies, buy a reputable brand & series, and if you suspect malfunction, replace ASAP.
So I'm a dumbass again and I bought some RGB fans (coolermaster masterfan mf120AR A-RGB) but turns out my motherboard only supports rgb 5050 4pin, wheras the fans are addressable 3pin. is there any way to convert that 3pin to a 4pin so i can connect it to the motherboard? the fans need 5v and the motherboard pins support 12v so if converted they should still work hey?
Thanks, I picked up two. Time to wait another paycheck to buy the rest of the loop because it'll cost me another $400.
I'm thinking of getting a GTX 1660 Ti to replace my 950. Are there any brands that I should avoid (low quality, bad customer support, etc)? Also would it be worth waiting a couple weeks to see if people have any issues with the card like with the 2080Ti?
This is also why I buy gold/platinum rated depending. PSUs are so cheap and are literally not only the last line of defense against bad input power, but are also the most dangerous component to literally every other part in the PC. Yeah the efficiency rating its self doesn't really help much, but it is a indicator of component quality due to needing components with tighter tolerances and thus better manufacturing. That bump in quality means bump in the life of the product to some degree. Barring any major PSU changes, like we abandon PCI power or some other major changes like we had in the early-mid 2000's, this $140 PSU of mine will last probably the next 3-4 PCs I build if not way longer.
I say too if you want to "cheap" out a bit, go with a name brand like Corsair if you were getting anything lower than 80plus Gold. CORSAIR CX850M V2 (2017 Edition) CP But even then, still watch them like hawks and replace if anything wrong is suspected.
https://i.imgur.com/Kdp3Bkt.png Scratch that, they only have one but allowed me to order two for some reason.
I have a quick question would a 650 watt be enough to OC a 9700k plus a 1080ti, and the various other things in my pc?
Warehouse issue or someone ordered one before you and the system hadn't updated to reflect it yet or something. Idk. See if they have the one with the acetyl top instead? If you're running 2 cards in one system it's not like you're really able really take the cosmetic advantage of a second plexi top anyway, plus long term Plexi is more likely to crack/degrade.
Dang already Bought the 240. Yeah should be fine is a Seasonic Prime Gold 650
Why is it such a pain in the balls to just copy a picture on mobile I gifted my cousin this two years ago, and he just decided (after only buying 1 fan for it in the last two years) that he would give up on it. So I guess it's mine again. Tempted to build another tower.... https://www.nzxt.com/products/s340-elite-matte-white I'll replace the link with a picture when I get home, sorry for just the url.
Oh shit, that tower's actually slick because I didn't know it had built in HDMI IO on the top for VR access, that's fucking sweet.
I have a wonderful awful idea. So used GTX 1080 FE cards are hovering around the $300 mark right now, and 1060s are hovering around $150, and I've got a literal PILE of used computer parts I can sell off for money. Is a 1080 going to last me the next few generations? I'd like to give resolutions greater than 1080p a try.
The 1080 will be an excellent 1440p+ card for at least a few years. The 1060 is really better suited these days for higher end 1080p or lower settings and 1440p, which means an upgrade would likely be due within the next year or so IF you want to maintain higher graphics settings. That said, if you're cool with upkeep, overclocking, and tweaking settings for a while to optimize them, you'll have a ton of fun with the 1060.
I should probably mention that I'm using an HTPC case, the Fractal Design Node 202. The (pretty terrible tbh) GPU cooling solution is more of an oven than anything else, making it so you need either a reference card or an ITX sized card with a 120mm fan blasting at it. OCing probably isn't an option here.
What clearance do you have as far as GPU width goes? I know (for example) the Asus ROG 1080 conforms to the length allowance of that case.
the GPU clearance is 310mm, more than enough for any full size card I'd care to get.
While this won't help with your cooling issues, if you're looking at 4K then you're going to want 8gb of vram at least. If you're just wanting to do 1080p for a while and looking for an upgrade in a year or so I'd recommend a used GTX 970 over an overpriced 1060 unless form factor and power are more important factors. The 970 basically slots in right between the 3gb and 6gb 1060's except they're $100~ The 970 isn't going to cut it for 1440p though either but it will last long enough to some price changes in RTX cards and new options come to market.
Sorry, I meant more along the lines of card slot width. Usually this would be denoted as "single-slot form factor" or "two-slot." Most aftermarket cards sit in the 2-3 slot range, and I believe the FE is a 2-slot blower design. Is this a case of "I don't have clearance for anything besides an FE?" Or is this more of a "Even if I had a 2.5 slot card with three fans in there, an axial fan setup would just push more hot air all over my case, so I'm going blower-style for air to be redirected out of the case."
Heat issues continued: I've undervolted my 9700k and on AIDA64 FPU test it tops out at about 80, which is much better than before when it got up to 94. My problem now is the idle temps are way higher. They were 35 but now it sits at 40-45. To undervolt I set the voltage to manual and did 1.25. When I tried adaptive and 1.25 as Turbo max it didn't seem to want to stick to that and still went up way higher and the CPU overheated and throttled. So I figure setting it manually, while good for my max temp, isn't great for my idle temp. Is there anything I can do about that?
Idle temperatures basically don't matter, your cpu could run 10 years nonstop at 45C and it won't get damaged in any way. The only concern is if you're worried about power consumption, but in idle I'd bet there's only a couple watts difference between stock and your settings, while you're making big savings under load, so you probably still come out ahead. You could try dynamic voltage if you can get it dialed in to a place where you want it and it all works stable, but if you don't want to bother with that, static works fine too.
Running Metro Exodus in game and the benchmark sees the CPU temp sitting around 55 which is down heaps from sitting at like 75. So I guess the load savings do come out ahead but the computer probably spends more time in idle than it does in a game, so if there is a way to get it to lower the voltage enough at idle I would be willing to give it a go. Would dynamic voltage help with that while still giving it a max of 1.25 (or whatever is stable)?
That's how it's called on my rather old Z77 mobo, it's possible that newer CPU/chipset generations have different methods of voltage controls or it's one of those things where it just depends on what the manufacturer decides to call it. It's best for you to just look specifically for Coffee Lake overclocking guides to get the correct info on how you should set things up.
Yeah I've been doing that and had good success so far obvious, but I can't find anything about getting the CPU voltage to chill out at idle at the same t me/don't know what to search for. I'll keep lookin!
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