• PC Building Thread V6 - "running six RGB controller utilities at once" edition
    999 replies, posted
SeaTools DOS is legit.
Alright, I'm probably going to go for the WD pro then, I hope the noise isn't too loud, but I need more data than anything and that seems to be a good option.
its making that sound then its gone moments later, doubt its the cable, but i'll check
Yeah you can store games on HDDs, that's even one of the things SSDs generally aren't that much better at (sequential read). I've had mixed reports about WD's 7.2K RPM drives in terms of noise, I've had friends that say the sound is quite loud, friends that say they're totally silent, and in between. Reviews are often similarly mixed. In my experience (I run 7 WD Golds in my tower, HDD tray is pretty close to head level, arms length away) they're generally effectively silent, but if you hit them with hard random IO ops you can hear them a bit, it can add up with a bunch of drives. Decide for yourself, here's a recording of 3x6TB Golds in RAID going through full crystaldiskmark run: https://s.gvid.me/s/2019/03/16/clickyclicky.webm That is at full mic gain, about 2 feet from the HDD cage, the gain is so high at times you can literally hear me breathing and moving. Its loudest around the 1:20 mark, when hitting the random I/O test.
So i'm going to be getting a new PC soon, but I want to get new peripherals (monitor, kbm, headphones) with it as well, but I also want something that'll last me a long time. My budget is $1500 and this is about what i've come up with. Will this suffice for at least a few years? I don't much care for raytracing, and i'm mainly going to be sticking to two 1080p monitors (one reused, one in the purchase).
Danke, I was only going off my somewhat limited experience with computer hardware, as i've only gotten into it over the past year.
Alright, I think I'm about ready to pull the trigger. Changed the monitor to a Dell that has FreeSync, but nothing much else has changed from last build post. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/xpQBBb Thanks, if it's "only" that loud, I don't think it'll be a problem
Eh, you're right. I thought that for $50 more I should increase my storage space from 4 to 6, but if I end up having that much media, I should throw in on an external backup at that point.
It's up to preference, I generally err on the side of going with more storage if it's only a little bit extra. HDD pricing and availability also vary just about daily on Amazon, so sometime 6TB drives are the sweetspot (I got all of mine for really nice price) and sometimes 4TB hits it. I don't know when you're going to pull the trigger on the purchase, but if it's a ways off then I'd check HDD pricing just before. I prefer Golds above everything else, but Red Pros are a good 2nd place. Getting less than 4TB drives is generally a waste, unless you get a good deal, since price/GB usually is worse, and so is speed, overhead (you're using limited HDD bay space, SATA connectors, power, etc). I also see games getting massive (like 40-70 per) and this has filled up my games drive pretty quick before I splurged on the 12TB of storage recently-ish. Addendum: I known you said you don't like to upgrade often, but I think at least a consideration of high-end Ryzen 3rd gen when they come out should be done. It'll be expensive-ish (probably 2-350), but if the rumors are true about gains, then I think it's a no-brainer, especially since you're gonna be on AM4 anyway, so it's just BIOS update and plop the new one in. That'll tide you for probably the next 7 years, since the pace of lithography development has reached molasses speeds, and easy-to-reach x86 uarch improvements have run out. Just my thoughts.
Oh shit, I forgot to mention this the other day. Don't bother buying Windows retail, buy grey-market keys through /r/microsoftsoftwareswap or eBay. I prefer the subreddit myself. You can get a key for like $25.
Also plenty of credit and gift card fraud. But hey, a cheap windows key is a cheap windows key.
Yeah. I'm not exactly going to shed tears over indirectly defrauding Microsoft, of all entities. My grubby little fingers need their cheap Windows keys.
ok update about my HDD noise i used seatools and both my internal and external cam out with green results, maybe i should recheck it again with dos version
Some workplaces may also provide Win10 Pro to you if you request it. Many that have some form of "extended commitment" or other work-from-home program will do this. Usually with some kind of trade-off, like requiring them to install it for you, or limiting the kind of PC you can ask for it installed on (mine intends this for laptops only, since they know people like me want to use the key when building our own rigs)
Does anyone know if Solidworks/Autocad uses more VRAM or just RAM?
Normal RAM, and a fuckton of it.
Solidworks loves three things High core counts at decent speeds As much RAM as you can throw at it Nvidia Quadro specifically, they are built first and foremost for CAD and simulation, and are amazing at both
Damn, alright. Might go back to using the 2080 for that build then. As much as I've enjoyed my AMD card these last seven years, I feel the amount of VRAM isn't necessary, especially when it can't really help me on simulation aspects if I'm working at home. I feel that, while I don't like NVIDA's near monopoly and pricing practices, their stuff is often better supported and more in line in where the industry will go. My heart is telling me the VII, but logic says that the 2080 would be a better long term bet.
Honestly for Solidworks either the VII or the 2080 would be okay. I've heard they're both good simulation cards, if you want something that'll be great at both that and gaming too, but if you're JUST doing CAD and sim then a Quadro P4000 might be a better fit.
Wow, if the Vega 64 is beating the 2080 Ti, that means the Radeon 7 would smash it, since it's roughly 30% above the 64 in benches.
I feel you. I'd much rather buy AMD cards, but I do 3D art, and ray-tracing renderers' support for OpenCL ranges from nonexistent to mediocre. CUDA is the standard and I kind of have to follow that standard.
So Saturday I tried messing with the AMD Ryzen Master software, and long story short I bricked my cube PC's OS because I wanted to attempt a slight overclock of 4.3ghz. Angry and sad, Sunday was dedicated to reinstalling the OS and messing with vcore voltages, because with it being on auto with XFR on it was getting the vcore to 1.4 to 1.44V, which I've heard is not good for long term stability, and before messing with Ryzen Master, I was able to have the CPU comfortably sit at 1.36V with XFR on, and with the reduced power came some pretty awesome cinebench scores, 145FPS, 1420 CPU Score, 172 Single CPU Score, and was able to open games. Now after reinstalling the OS, it will not go through cinebench without crashing, and same for opening games like Insurgency or GTA5 while using the old settings I was using, but if I put the vcore voltage back to auto, everything is functioning, though with a good hit in cinebench scores, and games open and function fine. Basically I'm just posting in hopes that someone gets a laugh out of my stupidity, and that someone may know a thing or two about stabilizing Ryzen vcore voltages.
I was editing the CPU clock ratio, because that's all I could do with the bios. Then when it came to voltage, I read 1.35 to 1.37 was a "sweet spot" so to speak, so I started at 1.35 and worked it originally to 1.36 after I felt the "overlock" was ok, which was just XFR with the CPU down at 1.36V. For LLC, I also had it on standard(0 or 1), low(2), and Medium(3) to test and settled on low because it seemed to lower the CPU thermals while keeping performance. It was after all of this that I decided to dick around with ryzen master and after doing what I said, the OS locked and I was forced to reinstall Windows.
B450 I Aorus Pro Wifi from Gigabyte
So Ryzen master will give you pretty high voltages normally, even without OC. Like if you set it to Game Mode or whatever it'll go way high. Spikes to 1.4v are absurdly high. The problem there would arise in the form of fucking your VRMs brains out. Test at VERY low voltage first, and try your OC. It sucks because you'll get crashes and reboots and you'll have to have it sit on a p95 cycle for hours or do a handbrake encode to test stability, but it beats the hell out of buying a new mobo. Literally try 1.28-1.30 volts and a light OC to begin.
I have one final question about my build, then. I set an internal deadline of ordering by friday- is there any reason I should wait to see if there's sales by then, or should i just got for it?
you forgot to buy a roll of tacky RGB LED strips the title of this thread isn't a joke. it's actually law
Alright. Probably biggest single purchase since my car going through right now, haha. Thanks @Lolkork @Glitchvid @AtomicSans for all your help. Wish me luck!
Pcpartpicker doesn't always have updated pricing information, and sometimes items aren't listed at all. Generally as a build reaches "these are the parts I want" I do digging to see what etailer has the best pricing/etc. I usually take the hit of stuff being a bit more expensive and get it on Amazon, because their return policy is great, and shipping is free. Similarly, I'll batch stuff on different etailers if I have to, I can't stand ordering parts from like 6 different companies and trying to manage that mess, (taxes, shipping, etc). Like, I'd go with this ordering situation: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/7MRXw6 Because then you're only dealing w/ Amazon and Newegg, and payment/taxes/shipping will be less of a pain in the ass.
Too late, but thank you. I'm already regretting a bit going with all those different sellers because of my mistake with ordering the 2 cpus from B&H instead of my intent of the 1 cpu and 1 atx mobo. If I did it like you're suggesting, it would have been a much easier fix with amazon and Newegg to cancel and change that.
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