• PC Building Thread V6 - "running six RGB controller utilities at once" edition
    999 replies, posted
I just got the strangest suggestion for how to fix my space issues: instead of a 24 inch 1080p monitor, get a 32 inch curved 1440p (or even 4K) panel, and rotate it into portrait, since while I have limited horizontal space, I have vertical room up to the ceiling Apparently, vertical 4K would give me approximately the same horizontal resolution as my old monitor, albeit at a slightly smaller effective size, so I would be able to game by running the game itself in 16:10 borderless 1080p window at the bottom, but when not gaming, I'd have effectively 2.25 monitors to work with stacked up vertically in that space, the curve making the higher half more usable in practice I mean, it sounds completely ludicrous, but... Kinda cool? Like, I don't think I've ever seen that done before, but aside from high refresh rate 4K panels being expensive, I can't think of any reason why it WOULDN'T work
It's possible that the new bios doesn't play well with older drivers, but if you're doing a fresh install, you won't have any drivers to start with so that shouldn't be a problem. Otherwise that makes no sense. Honestly, what reason do you have for partitioning the drive, it's no different than creating 3 folders on the same partition? And it's less awkward than dedicating a fixed 2TB to each, then later finding out you'd prefer different sizes. I personally prefer to create a small partition for the OS and most programs (~100GB), then keep all my data and game libraries on other partitions/drives. This way, if you ever have to wipe your OS install, it's a relatively painless procedure. So, splitting the SSD up might make more sense.
I can't get my ram to go up to 3200. I've sloted them in A1 and B1 Have set the XMP profile to XMP 2.0 Profile one, which was defult. DRAM profile is CORSAIR VENGEANCE I've done the timings properly (16-18-18-18-36) on bios and set the voltage to 1.350. It's reading both of them, but at 2133. I'm probably missing something obvious, but I don't understand what.
Here's my bios, what am I missing? https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/527/fb07669d-e406-4250-b1e2-ff423d79d7dc/Memory Meme.jpg
There's like calculators for all of the DDR4 settings nowadays, maybe try one of those. Some timing is probably not high enough and the auto setting's best guess isn't good enough. https://www.overclock.net/forum/13-amd-general/1640919-new-dram-calculator-ryzena-1-4-1-overclocking-dram-am4.html
Alright. I'm still waiting on my OS key from r/microsoftsorftwareswap, so I'm relegated to testing different configs until I can get an OS to get some software on it. I've managed to get it up to 2800 with a few auto boots, but that's about it.
When you save and reboot, what happens? Does it fail to boot multiple times? Also, look at the POST-code display and see what it gets stuck on, cross reference with the manual table for POST codes.
If I set the MHz too high, it just starts for 2 seconds and shuts down. Rinse and repeat until it goes through the allotted fails and reverts back to 2111MHz. Max repeats I can set is 10. It gives me F9, which isn't even in my debug list. PDF Page 42 A quick google search says f9 on a different ASRock mobo is "Recovery capsule is not found" I think at this point I'm going to have to wait to get the OS going to try a bunch of debug tools. I've got New Dram Calc, Ryzen Timing Checking, CPU-Z, and HWiNFO lined up.
I'm rocking a 32" portrait 4k monitor and I love it. On the topic, are there any simple programs that just add more window snapping zones to a monitor? Windows default is 2x2 which looks stupid on a portrait monitor, but the program's I've found online have too many features I don't care about and also cost money. My quest to put a 2x4 or 2x6 snap grid on this monitor has felt unnecessarily arduous. In pictures, windows does this: https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/110010/698cb262-bf4a-447e-8be0-ac285d4805ec/image.png I want this: https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/110010/687c7650-9086-489f-b2da-86b9de166db4/image.png Or this: https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/110010/20128155-df68-4bb2-84c3-4d128a526fa1/image.png Or even this: https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/110010/29b0c580-d4ed-4da7-afb1-8e741aabb858/image.png
You could honestly also try re-seating the RAM. Sometimes that clears things up. Also SOC voltage can be set to 1.1V manually, but XMP should be doing that. Otherwise, sometimes you just get a dud piece of silicon. I have a friend who E-Z got 3200 on a 2700X, and another who no effort got 3466 on his 2950X, My other friend has trouble hitting 2933 on an 1800X. I can hit 2933 just fine on a 1700X and ASRock b340 Pro4. That said, you should be at least getting 2666, and optimally 2933 without much effort.
You don't even need a key to download the official OS image: https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/software-download/windows10 Just install it now and activate later.
I recently bought some new hardware(i5 8600k, 1070ti, 16gb ram) but I’m still on a 1080 display(it’s 144hz though) Which is fine for me since I don’t have to play everything at the highest settings, just with a good enough FPS. But I’m kinda interested in a 144hz screen at 1440p, just to get a crisper image. Are there any decent monitors around 27’’ that fit the bill that don’t cost a shitload of money? I’ve been a out of the hardware loop for years now so it’s all a bit too much
Would there be any advantage/harm in swaping the places of the two sticks of ram? A1 into B1 and visa versa?
It probably wouldn't do anything, that said, the manual recommends putting the ram into A2 and B2, not A1 and B1 (unless you're populating all slots).
my 2070 FE died after 11 days so i returned it got this big fuck you EVGA 3 slot card https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/110593/9622a05b-19f3-41db-888b-700ee2cf3ea7/image.png
Oh shit, I'll try that. Not sure How I missed that, hopefully it'll help.
A few years ago my brother bought an i5-6600k + motherboard kit from some reputable parts seller. It was pre overclocked @ 4.5GHz and came with a fat 212 EVO cooler. He's had no issues at all, but I went into his BIOS yesterday to find all they'd done was stick the multiplier up at 45x and set the voltage to 1.5 1.5????? for 4.5GHz? how fucking lazy is that. I dropped it down to 1.35 and made sure it was stable. Absolutely fine. Will that have fucked his CPU at all? He never complained of any temp issues or anything and nothing has cropped up thus far but 1.5v seems mighty high.
It's possible that the mobo has a ton of voltage droop under load and they had LLC turned way down, so the actual voltage could be a lot lower. What do the readouts from monitoring tools show? Still not a very smart thing to do, but at least the cpu didn't suffer any serious damage.
How bad have I fucked up? So I was stress testing with DOOM 2016. The high refresh rate is amazing, and I cranked everything up to ultra. Played for a good 15 minuets, smooth as butter. That was before I alt-tabbed to check speccy, to my absolute horror my cpu was reading 117 C Needless to say I've shit my pants and quit as fast as I could. Case is open, I have a freestand fan blowing air onto it to try to make sure it doesn't permanently melt. Even now, it's sitting average at 85 but still occasionally spiking to 95. Shouldn't a 2600x be able to handle DOOM on those settings, though? The only way I could image I messed up during the application was having to remount the stock cooler once. This could have shifted enough of the preapplied thermal paste, but I don't see any on the sides, it must still all be on the cpu, right? It's better to leave the computer on to have the fan continually cool it, correct?
wow, yeah, speccy is still saying 95c whereas HWiNFO is saying 35. Should I relaunch DOOM while logging?
I've done this exact test with a 2600X and stock cooler, Noctua thermal paste though. It pushed about 89C. It's an unrealistic and abusive test.
Well came back from a full session of 2k 144hz doom on ultra- Peak was 75 but average was 65. It'll probably go higher once my case is closed up, might pick up an extra 120 case fan to help out, but tthose temps don't seem so bad.
Is there anything else I can do at this point without buying a dedicated water cooling solution? I'm going to pick up a couple more fans to improve/increase airflow in the case, should I buy some thermal paste and reapply?
The Fatal1ty X470 K4's fan curves are very conservative. By default it only spins up to 100% at 90C. I made a custom curve that goes to 100% at 60C for max XFR2 clocks, but that's easier for me to attain because I use a Dark Rock 4 for cooling.
I don't mind the noise, so it it possible to change the curves in Ryzen Master Utility, or do I need to do it in another program.
Anything better than an entry level air cooler is going to be an improvement, the Wraith Spire is decent but it's just an adequate cooling solution for a stock 2600x. Noctua's NH-U12 or the Scythe Mugen 5 would work really great, I can't seem to figure out BeQuiet's lineup with Pure Rock/Shadow Rock/Dark Rock but they have some quality options. Enermax and Deepcool should have some similarly performing options at lower cost as well but pricing and availability on everything aside from these two fluctuate like crazy. Budget AIO's also become an option but honestly cheap and water don't really mix. I feel like 120mm AIO's are really only useful in small form factor or atheistic focused builds but with the later, 120mm rads look cheap in a mid tower. https://www.amazon.com/Scythe-Cooler-Sealed-Precision-SCMG-5100/dp/B01M6CR4GH/ https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-U12S-Premium-Cooler-NF-F12/dp/B00C9EYVGY/
You don't really need to buy an aftermarket cooler. The Wraith Spire is actually damn good for what it is. I only got one because I had money burning a hole in my pocket at the time, and I really wanted an extra 100 MHz out of XFR2. For reference I bought a Be quiet! Dark Rock 4. It's pricey but absolutely wonderful, dead silent at max RPM. Highly recommended, if anybody really wants an aftermarket air cooler. It also comes with a screwdriver that is way better than it has any right to be. It's probably my favorite Philips-head screwdriver that I own, and I didn't even expect it in the box. Anyway. You can configure a fan curve in your BIOS. The interface is very simple. However, make sure that the motherboard is reading the temperature from "Tctrl", not anything else. Ryzen's temperature sensors are a little strange in some ways, and I think ASRock isn't very experienced with the platform yet, so no other sensor besides Tctrl will work properly. Just a small oddity. I'm glad you got the same board I have, it makes it a lot easier to navigate all the little quirks.
Late reply, power went off during our massive random snowfall so I haven't been online. Thanks, but don't worry about it, I'm not the only person in here helpin' ya out. I just don't like seeing people get burned by PC companies, so I do what I can to prevent it. If you really feel the need to spend money, donate to the Internet Archive or the EFF.
I always do 100% of humble bundle to EEF anyways, they're good people.
I have a Kraken X42 on my 2600x and it keeps it at 58C constant in either 1080P 144hz gaming or 4K 60hz gaming, it's got some scale-ability to it, though when it comes to 4K I'm testing on a TV with dog shit input lag so it kinda kills the FPS gains my rig is making. Also, I've never been more impressed with a AIO on an NZXT graphics card bracket, I put an EVGA 120 AIO on my 1080TI, and it won't push past 45C in games, fucking incredible.
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