PC Building Thread V6 - "running six RGB controller utilities at once" edition
999 replies, posted
I don't understand how NZXT can make excellent AIO coolers but have the most absolutely brain dead software to accompany it. Not only does uninstalling it fuck your fans and pump by putting them at the baseline of whatever setting they were on, there is no way to get them back to being controlled via the motherboard's fan controller. And if you stick with using CAM, the software will just fucking give up at random, so it'll show your liquid temperature's at 29C when in reality thanks to HWInfo not being garbage, the damn coolant is in the 40C's. Then if you try to change any settings, it freezes and you have to restart the fucking software.
Seriously who is the cunt at NZXT who designed this piece of shit software so I can promptly smack them in the god damn face.
Yo why are those extra 2 PCIE cable ends not plugged in.
Also is this bad, this is a learning experience for both of us lol.
Tbh I've considered doing the same. Not that I think I've said too much "regrettable" stuff, but the world - and myself - are definitely in a different place today compared to 10 years ago.
On topic - after having an extremely frustrating fight with a GPU yesterday (that I ended up losing), I just built a Ryzen 2600X build for a friend today. Seriously, what a fucking breeze that was. For all its flaws, Windows 10 really made the experience of switching hardware much, much more seamless - he's been through two laptops on the same SSD, and even though it's a switch from (Intel) laptop hardware to AMD desktop, Windows just did its thing for maybe a minute and shit just works. Ain't that long ago that I was burning DVDs with different Windows SKUs on them (or doing that hack that allowed you to pick the SKU during installation).
Also runs like a dream. I'm jealous.
I'm looking for a new PSU for my Zen 2 upgrade because my current one is pretty noisy. (Some kind of OEM'ish 700W FSP)
Here is my current specs:
i5-3570k, 16GB DDR3, GTX1080, 1 SSD, 3 HDDS.
Zen upgrade: whatever comes with highest core amount and clock speed (so about 140w TDP?), 32GB DDR4, GTX1080, 2 SSD, 1 HDD.
My #1 priority is low noise level. I'm not trying to build super quiet setup but I find it ridiculous that PSU is the only component in my PC which doesn't lower its fan speed when my PC does nothing.
So apparently gtx 1080 = 180W, a beastly overclocked zen 2 =~ 150W, add all the other stuff to that and you're looking at ~350-400W peak power output. PSUs typically reach peak efficiency at ~50% load and they tend to spin down their fans a lot too at lower loads. Get something from a quality brand in the 700-800W range and you're set. Honestly, you could even do with a lot less powerful PSU than that, it's weird that your current one doesn't spin down properly at low loads.
if you plug a 6 pin into an 8 pin usually you just won't get any output, but sometimes it'll run but be unstable
hey guys got a few questions here
Planning on upgrading and slightly future proofing my mobo and CPU from a z170 pro gaming and a 6600k, to a maximus XI Hero and a 9700k, to go along with a 1070ti and an unknown ammount of ram.
Unknown because I have 2x8gb (16) of hyperX fury at 2400mhz, and I figured I could either upgrade to 3200mhz to go along with the future proofing theme, or not ditch the ram I already have, get two extra sticks and overkill it to 32gb quad channel, which will either do nothing or a slight lot.
What would be the best option in terms of ram here? I honestly don't know what would be better, without going over 130 euros. If performance boost from the 16gb 2400 I have to anything else was mostly negligeble, I wouldn't spend it at all and just save the cash, but if it were to make an actuall difference, then yeah, I'd do it.
Also, I don't plan on OCing the CPU for a while. Would a 212 EVO work well? It has managed to keep the 6600k at bay with an extra 1ghz of clock in it, but would it work here? Actually, would it fit at all?
Is a 620W seasonic M2II enough for all of that?
And lastly, should I just save 30 euros and get the non-wifi version of the mobo or is it a really good thing to have? I prefer cable connection overall.
i tried plugging it in but it looks off, as if it's being pushed
There is usually a little latching bit that keeps it in place, make sure it's on the right side of that.
Those fuckers can be hard to get in, but they'll go.
So, I'm not sure where else to ask, but... I'm at the end of my rope, here. My favorite gaming headset for countless years (Plantronics GameCom 780) finally broke, and I'm stuck out in the cold looking for a successor out of nowhere. I had it EQ'd, loved the HUGE soundstage its digital surround had, and really appreciated getting a decent mic for what it cost.
I have no idea where to start looking for something comparable. The Plantronics RIG is fine but its surround implementation is trash, same with the HyperX Cloud II (narrow and muffled), the Corsair HS70 (SEVERELY reduced sound quality in surround, sounded like a 140p youtube video) and Corsair VOID PRO (incorrect positions and muffled) that I've tried so far. Aside from that, the VOID and HS70 had pretty mediocre mics compared to the GC780, and the VOID was kinda bad for music...
Basically I want something that:
Has good, clean audio quality that could be touched up easily with EQ
Has a great, clear mic
Has good surround functionality, preferably something that can be tuned (the GC780's was so good I just left it on all the time, super wide and clean)
Supports higher than 16bit audio with its requisite software installed (seriously, Corsair?)
Has software that isn't hot garbage (SERIOUSLY, Corsair?)
Is USB, or includes a USB DAC that isn't terrible (seriously HyperX?) to get proper 24bit audio with no noise
Has a decently sturdy build
And I'm willing to spend quite a bit to get it. I'm definitely not shy to throw down $150 or more on something that will actually be high quality, and is likely to last as long as my previous pair.
I know the want for surround might be strange, but I'm the kind of person who would have an actual 7.1 setup if I didn't run the risk of angering some very, VERY noise-sensitive neighbors. Seriously, I've gotten complaints for talking too loud past 10PM. It's ridiculous. A headset with a good surround implementation and wide soundstage can sound like you're just listening to speakers, which is why I loved the GC780 as much as I did, and am having so much trouble getting into pretty much everything I've tried so far.
Any recommendations, here? I feel like at this rate I'll wind up returning nearly everything my local store carries before I find something good on my own.
Don't even fuck w/ headsets IMO.
Grab a pair of AKG Q701s, stick those into a fairy recent Realtek-powered 3.5mm jack and you're pretty set for audio <$400.
For a mic, just strap a modmic on there and be done with it.
Both Realtek software, and Windows let you play around with virtualized 7.1 and other speaker configurations, and have built-in EQ settings.
at 1st it looks tilted, but i got it figured out
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/527436084981006336/567204489992339456/20190415_112734.jpg
Here's some really good EQ settings, it's kinda shocking how much of a difference it makes:
https://www.reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/92b08s/eq_settings_for_700_headphones/
Does anyone know where I can get spare working LGA 1155 mobos for a sane price? I'm after mini ITX so I can swap my parts to a new case cause they're currently in a Dell which doesn't fit other case standoffs.....
Ebay is your best bet
That's probably going to be my next avenue, it's just a bit frustrating that what I'm looking for now was not only available previously, but was less than $80 when I bought it, and now I can't find an equivalent at seemingly ANY price (aside from buying the same headset new-old stock at a hilariously inflated $300-500)
Tried this for my AH-D2000's and all it does is make the bass drown out all vocals and highs.
Huh, I think it really improved the sound of my Sennheiser HD 598. It improved the soundstage and made the individual sounds more clear and distinct.
FWIW I'm not a big fan of EQ for headphones. When I use any on my stuff it usually just ends up boosting the base and drowning the treble.
SO I relpaced the stock cooler with a H7 Plus and Kryonaut. Getting some wierd spikes, but I'm assuming I've got to give the thermal paste some time to heat up and settle in- should I stress test it with a high intensity setting game or just let it idle on lower temps for a while?
I'd say let it settle by idling the system for a good while. Putting it through an extreme stress test right after repasting might lead to bubbles forming.
Copying and pasting from a post I made 8 months ago
High-end CPU coolers actually have very low thermal capacity but very high dissipation, which results in the near-instantaneous spiking to temperature that you're seeing. You are 100% fine.
The relationship between thermal capacity and thermal dissipation is kind of weird. Within the last week I've run the same benchmarks on both a Wraith Spire and a Dark Rock 4, both on a 2600X. The Wraith Spire maxed out at 89C while the Dark Rock 4 maxes out at 70. Both idle around 40C. However, while the Dark Rock 4 spikes from 40C to 70C in around two seconds, the Wraith Spire takes about 15 seconds because it spends so much time filling the thermal mass of the copper core before the heat can reach the fins to dissipate it.
Basically, stock coolers aren't the best at dissipation but they result in smoother temperature-time graphs because they're closer to solid blocks of metal, and the heat up slowly and evenly. Fin-stack coolers are much lighter and have less mass but dissipate faster, so they "fill up" with heat way faster than stock coolers, faster than the fan can actually catch up.
With high-performance coolers, very brief spikes in temperature are expected and accounted for. They happen when doing such mundane things as loading a page in a web browser.
So I can just go nuts with gaming, then? I wanted to jump right back into DOOM 2016 to see how the new cooler I'm using stacks up to the stock cooler, but I wasn't sure if I needed to give it time.
Yeah go ahead. Kryonaut is non-curing anyway, it remains in the same physical state in all conditions and doesn't have a curing phase.
For some reason this thread (and I think the other megathread too) is permanently marked as read no matter when people post.
So two weeks ago, when I was pankicking, I was getting avg temps of 80-85c. So I did the same test as last time, Doom 2016, Ultra, run through Foundry until completion.
Now, with that c7 cooler and Kryonaut, this is my average cpu temp
https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/527/0425b731-b96b-48fe-90ca-c962b7397d5e/Capture.PNG
Holy SHIT
I'm a believer.
I get notifications for all new posts here. The whole forum has been a bit wonky this week since a prolific poster deleted their account and the forum's database hasn't handled it very gracefully.
I cannot stress this enough because it keeps coming up all the time: the only temperature that really matters with regards to cooling is the maximum that your cpu cores reach at any point. You only have to stress test with a worst-case load once to figure out if your setup can keep the temps in check, after that you can rest easy knowing that your temps will never surpass that point (save for any fan/pump/paste failures).
Frankly I don't understand why so many reviewers even bother including idle temps in their tests, it doesn't tell you anything useful about the cooling setup and it's almost impossible to get accurate results. It's highly unscientific and just ends up sending the wrong message.
sounds like shit on my dt990 600 ohm and my koss pro 4aaats. user side eq in general is pretty dumb, buy some flat response monitors and let the audio engineer do the work
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