• PC Building Thread V6 - "running six RGB controller utilities at once" edition
    999 replies, posted
i just gave it a try, a lot of info is wildly incorrect not shown at all or shown in a useless format considering the type of user it seems to be aimed at which of these seems more useful? speccy says my cpu is on fire my gpu has half its vram and it doesnt know what a NVMe drive is https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/237741/d7baa6e0-2b31-46b4-bde0-d94cfd09aaab/speccy.PNG
It's more for accoustics and overclocking potential but sure I guess.
We desperately need a modern hardware report program that: Is actually fucking accurate Generates reports that humans can read without having to manually pair them down Generates embed code for forum posts Still offers intensely granular specs for the few people that need them, nested in their respective top-level component reports Has tooltips for every relevant spec explaining what they mean and why they're relevant
anybody in the US/Canada want 16GB of RAM for excruciatingly cheap? perfectly good EVGA Superclocked DDR4-2400 CL15 RAM, now that I've got a full kit I have no need for these two orphan sticks.
https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/58186/77019c13-03f1-4385-b550-f88fdab9409e/Capture.PNG speccy reports everything the same as the other programs for me. not exactly using new hardware at the moment so it might just be an out of date database or something. speccy tells me all the stuff I need to know at a glance for normal system monitoring when not doing diagnostics or stability testing. of course if I want to know more I do bring up the other programs. they all have their place (except open hardware monitor which is totally redundant). speccy's place is just having a nice window on your second monitor with all the important temps easily visible and highly legible at a glance.
HWMonitor is redundant too, it misses a lot of sensors and gets some stuff wrong. HWinfo64 is the most accurate and comprehensive.
speccy is weird, it thinks my motherboard's at 110 C
I'll probably make a thread for this but I wanted to ask here before. So I bought a Predator XB271HU, and I've been having some issues. I'm on Windows 10 and I've got a 1080ti, I'm using the display port, one doesn't detect the monitor at all the other is seems a bit wacky, the monitor is stuck on 23hz, sometimes when I restart I get the full 1440p resolution other times it's stuck on 1080p. Sometimes it gives me the option to switch the refresh rate up to 60 in windows, other times up to 144 but when I change to 144 the computer freezes and the screen goes black. Any ideas?
Have you tried another display port cable? Sounds like a shoddy displayport.
Yep, just did and it was the cable. Unfortunate, but atleast I got it to work.
My primary non-boot SSD (1TB SanDisk SATA) is already about 90% full, and I'm looking at my options for another drive specifically for semi long term storage of my Unity, Blender and GIMP projects. Not archival, just somewhere the ones that aren't relevant right this minute can live as I work on more important ones. SSD is preferred, I've had horrible luck with spinning rust lately, and am fine with the increased cost for better reliability. Is anyone here familiar with those new QLC SATA drives? I hear their write endurance and read speeds are kinda low compared to many others, but I'm not hugely concerned with either of those for my purpose, and they are very cheap compared to those same other drives. 4TB for like 20% more than I paid for my current 1TB is mighty attractive...
Intel's 660p drive are cheaper and faster than Samsung's QVO drives, but have fewer write cycles and less consistent write performance. I imagine the QVO drives are better suited for archival since they use SATA.
QLC suffer from write endurance and sustained writes that fill the cache. I don't think the read speeds should be too bad. If you're not going to be writing a lot at a time, it should be fine performance-wise. You should compare the QLC drives to MLC drives if there are any alternatives. MLC drives cost the same amount as equivalent QLC when QLC released, while avoiding QLC's drawbacks, at least at <=2TB capacities. If the QLC drive is noticeably cheaper, it's worth it.
I'll be writing an exceptionally large amount of data to it right away (300 to 400-ish GB), but after that, it'll mostly be occasional <25GB copies to and from the drive. I have kind of a tiered system; for the sake of my extremely aggressive autosaves not taking too long, my "right now" projects get to sit on a dedicated 64GB partition of my boot SSD until I'm done with them for the time being, at which point they're moved to my slower SATA drive for later reference or small tweaks. While that works out nicely, I'm just sorely running low on space to maintain it. I'm thinking adding a third tier to the system would relieve a lot of the strain, considering that 1TB SATA drive also houses my Steam library.
I think this one is probably the way to go, cheap, reliable, and fast enough: https://www.amazon.com/ADATA-SU800-128GB-3D-NAND-ASU800SS-128GT-C/dp/B07GBRG2G8/ Weirdly enough the price listed on the page is not the lowest price you can buy it for: https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/458919/ef09d431-5ce5-4ed5-8d80-49ef2eca7f98/image.png
Oh lord people I have some issues. So a while back I finally upgraded to a Ryzen 5 1600 and a GTX 1080. But I’m still using a 450W PSU. On top of that, it’s a shitty 450W PSU. Also I’m gonna make the jump to a 1TB NVMe SSD. The problem here is that I don’t have the budget for all of this. I ended up paying like $60 more for the 1080 than I should have. On top of that, I only have a 1080p60 monitor for now. should I just sell the 1080 and find a 1070 Founder’s Edition? I only foresee getting a 1440p FreeSync monitor in the next 5 years. Is it worth waiting for AMD Navi and the potential RX 3000 cards? I want to get rid of the 1080 before resale value drops if that’s any good.
Honestly, looking at how well the 980 held up over the years - it can still get 1440@60 in some newer titles - I don't think you'd go wrong keeping the 1080 and replacing the PSU next chance you get, underclocking the card in the meantime if its draw is making your system unstable. And you can save some money elsewhere by just sticking with a lower capacity NVMe boot drive and using a larger SATA one for games and stuff, you'll very rarely notice a difference in most tasks and that combo can be had for much cheaper.
I use my X5675@4.6ghz with a GTX 1080, sure it doesn't get 200fps constantly in all of CS:GO's new maps and often bottlenecks up on a thread in games like No Man's Sky but jumping upto 1440p144 really helped leverage it better and in games that actually use multithreading. I'm actually pretty sure more new titles will straight bottleneck on 4c/4t more often than this old junk. 1080p60 though, I'd recommend to find like a RX 570 or a GTX 970 for under $100 and just go with that though if you think it will actually sell. I only paid $299.99 a year ago for it before RTX dropped and really wouldn't pay much more than $250-275 for an old card, even more so when there's going to be plenty of early production, well used 1080's out there. RTX 2060's come down into the low 300's as well. If you can get someone to overpay for it, go for it.
I only suggested keeping the 1080 cause he mentioned he might get a 1440 monitor in the future, and the 1080 going forward might be the lowest end card that can do high/maxed 1440@60 or medium 1440@120 in 2020-2025 triple-A titles. Yeah the RX570 and GTX970 can do 1080 perfectly well, but looking forward they absolutely will struggle as 1440 becomes mainstream.
I’m going to keep the 1080 for now, once the dust settles and we see how Navi (and by extension the next generation of consoles) pan out I’ll have to decide. If the medium range Navi is hovering around the 1080/2050 spot it’s rumored to be Ill be set for at least the next few years once I get 1440pVFR.
The weaker one is supposedly going to be around $400, so not really worth replacing your 1080 with.
I saw the discussion about Speccy and decided to try it myself, sorry if this is very late to the party, but holy shit is it garbage. It stated that I have some weird mutated 3111mb (????) RTX 2080 Ti and told me my motherboard is melting right now at toasty 105C. HWinfo64 on the other hand is spot on in everything. People should really be using that.
105c could be the motherboard's VRM. Some parts of it can operate at up to like 150c. Though it's likely a misread sensor if HWinfo64 didn't see that
92mm radiator AIO's from Asetek are available as of the moment from SFFlab and Overclockers UK https://www.sfflab.com/products/asetek-aio?variant=20962216444017 ▷ OcUK Tech Labs 92mm Extreme CPU Liquid Coolin… | OcUK https://e-cryptonews.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/asetek-launches-645lt-a-miniature-closed-loop-liquid-cooler.jpg
As far as SFF goes if you want this your best bet is the Fractal Node 202. I've had one for a few years and if you have an ITX sized GPU you'll be able to shove an AIO in there.
I have a spare 92mm fan and I was bored looking at some old pc cases, they use 92mm as exhaust fans on pretty much everyone, so I could slap a good build in an old case and have the CPU cooled with one of these. I just hope they keep stock in supply by the time I get around to making a new PC build.
Can someone find me a CPU cooler that works with a E3-1240 V3 in a 1U chassis that's quiet? I don't care if the chassis is open or not, so size isn't an issue. It has to screw into the existing backplate. I uh, ruined a motherboard trying to remove the last one. Or.... if someone could tell me how to jury rig one of the 1150 coolers so it uses screws instead of pins that would be awesome.
noctua nh-l9i should work, it'd use every bit of vertical space in a 1u chassis so you'll probably want to go open top or cut a hole in the cover. rosewill makes the rocc-17001 as well, which is pretty decent, but I think you have to use the backplate that comes with it
Well, finally ready to sell it, just have to install the latest chipset and bios updates so it can accept 3rd Gen Ryzen CPU's, then I'm finished with it. https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/198800/24076791-85d4-4326-bffc-d8e3d31c7b64/Cube PC Sale 1 resize.jpg
I mean Dynatron is an option. If you aren't cooling a ton of power, and have chassis fans, going with a big copper 1U heatsink is always an option.
Sorry, you need to Log In to post a reply to this thread.