The "Quick Questions That Don't Deserve A Thread"...Thread. v5 - Hardware & Software

[QUOTE=zombini;48639576]If you're with Nvidia, there should be an Adaptive V-Sync option that makes V-Sync turn off whenever the frame rate drops below the refresh rate of the monitor. G-Sync is really not worth it, especially as most monitors are $400 more than the non G-Sync version.[/QUOTE] I did try adaptive sync but is just urgh. The image quality still has some of the scan lines and the slow down time is there. I Think I might just buy a monitor with a higher refresh rate since is being such a pain in the neck for me to get a g-sync one. Thanks for the reply thought I appreciate the help.

[QUOTE=Behemoth_PT;48606150] computer problems [/QUOTE] I had a very similiar issue, soon as I upgraded my case & PSU it stopped and I was even able to use one of the dead HDDs again. I think it's either the HDDs overheating because they have no airflow or the powersupply dying and cutting off power to them.

You'll have to manually set anything above 1600mhz and increase the voltage. It's reporting as 1600mhz right now. (DDR stands for dual data rate, double whatever speccy says is what it's advertised at)

thinking about replacing my 2 gtx 760s in SLI with an AMD Radeon 390x 8gb, I primarily use my rig for 3d modelling and game development, am I going to notice a performance change? I'm hoping to have a bit better performance, but I'm also looking for an ease in temperature control, SLI makes my rig hot, and one of my cards currently has a fan out.

Can anyone recommend a good laptop? I'm looking for something for under $800 CAD, I'm hoping I can get one powerful enough to at the least run Dark Souls I/II quite well.

[QUOTE=Dirty_Ape;48641248]Can anyone recommend a good laptop? I'm looking for something for under $800 CAD, I'm hoping I can get one powerful enough to at the least run Dark Souls I/II quite well.[/QUOTE] About the only laptops with half-decent dedicated graphics able to be found new, refurb or used for $800CAD is the Lenovo Y40 / Y50, which have mediocre screens at best. The Y50-80 is a significant improvement in screen quality, but also over your price range unless you can find one used. [editline]8th September 2015[/editline] [QUOTE=hippowombat;48641154]thinking about replacing my 2 gtx 760s in SLI with an AMD Radeon 390x 8gb, I primarily use my rig for 3d modelling and game development, am I going to notice a performance change? I'm hoping to have a bit better performance, but I'm also looking for an ease in temperature control, SLI makes my rig hot, and one of my cards currently has a fan out.[/QUOTE] Here's comparisons with the 290x, which is fairly similar to the 390x. [url]http://www.ocaholic.ch/modules/smartsection/item.php?itemid=1293&page=15[/url] [url]http://www.hardocp.com/article/2015/06/18/msi_r9_390x_gaming_8g_video_card_review/9#.Ve9azvlVhBd[/url] Some games will probably run a little slower while others will be the same. Games that don't support SLI well would probably see a good benefit, but only at higher resolutions.

[QUOTE=Demache;48630067]It could be defective. As for the most part on most modern LCD's, its very subtle but not usually enough to make games hard to play. And considering in the reviews that they don't mention motion blur being an issue, I'd say your monitor is the outlier here.[/QUOTE] I know my old ACER X233W was an LCD, and I never noticed any problems with blur or ghosting. [QUOTE=taipan;48632920]Are you using the correct resolution? And have you tried fiddling with the settings?/reset the screen/get it off demo mode?[/QUOTE] Yes the resolution is 1920x1080, I can't stand stretched images so it's always the first thing I set in games. Not sure what you mean by reset or demo. [QUOTE=taipan;48632920]Maybe this will help? [url]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TYLjdo4o0Sc[/url] And try toggling overdrive and light boost.[/QUOTE] Light Boost? And there is no Overdrive setting. The settings menu is completely different from that video.

Just for clarification: My left mouse button randomly toggles from pressed and not pressed when holding it down and worsens when I move it around, that's pretty much a sign that I'm in need of a new mouse right?

[QUOTE=highvoltage;48642123]Just for clarification: My left mouse button randomly toggles from pressed and not pressed when holding it down and worsens when I move it around, that's pretty much a sign that I'm in need of a new mouse right?[/QUOTE] Switches are dying, or their solder joints are cracking. The switches are most likely standardized Omrons or clones. Can be fixed, but some computer mices are impossible to open without damaging them somewhat.

[QUOTE=Edge97;48638326]I have a laptop and my phone connected to Wi-Fi network. When I just brought lap top internet worked just fine, but for next 2 days it was showing strange signs. It won't load any web pages for 99% of the time(it tries for infinity but just can't) occasionally it loads one page but trying to load another just won't work. Small things like steam chat or weather widgets in-browser work. On the other hand internet on my phone works just fine: I can load pages, download files, watch YouTube. I tried using hotstop from my phone using mobile internet - it loaded pages fine, just slowly. I tried turning off antivirus and firewall - no results. The only thing that worked for me was booting into safe mode - I could load pages now, download files and watch videos. So I assuming something on my PC is blocking my connections, but I have no idea why could that be, since I also tried to boot without autoloading apps and it did nothing. UPD: FIXED! We have MAC-filtering system. I tried deleting myself from the list and adding back, and guess what? It works now through the power of magic![/QUOTE] OK, it came back and that trick didn't work this time, so I have no idea what to do now.

I've got a friend who's been telling me he can't play Mad Max because his CPU jumps to 100% usage when playing it, his rig runs at 4.5Ghz with a GTX680 so I'm pretty sure there's no bottleneck there. I know for a fact that he's downloaded a lot of malware which is a fairly probable cause but does anyone else have any ideas?

What processor does he have though?

[QUOTE=~Kiwi~v2;48644968]reposting[/QUOTE] Get the Razer Blade.

[QUOTE=~Kiwi~v2;48644984]I'm not made of money. I have a budget...[/QUOTE] Then get a credit card!

Get the better T61 though. The Latitude wouldn't be bad though. [editline]9th September 2015[/editline] Merge...

[QUOTE=Levelog;48644961]What processor does he have though?[/QUOTE] I'm pretty sure it's an overclocked Pentium G3420. Mind you he's just told me it's been running fine for the past half an hour at around 40% so if the problem is intermittent that would point towards it being something else?

I mean it's a dual core if it's a Pentium. It's not exactly a fantastic processor. Things really benefit from more than a dual core nowadays.

I'm thinking of buying my girlfriend a LG G4 but she has a bad habit of always dropping and breaking her phones. What type of case will work best? I was thinking a nice gel one.

[QUOTE=Makol;48635943]What's a good program for cloning hard drives? My new SSD for my laptop showed up the other day and I need to clone my current one since it seems like the free Windows 10 upgrade doesn't exactly provide you with a serial key.[/QUOTE] reposting

[QUOTE=~Kiwi~v2;48645023]The Dell Lattitude has a bigger battery and is slightly ever so slightly better in benchmarks T7500 vs T8100 I might actually spring for the Lattitude due to the keyboard layout. I can't fucking stand the FN key being where the CTRL key SHOULD BE. I can't stand it nor can I adjust to it.[/QUOTE] Just swap them? I'm pretty sure the T61 has the bios option for it. [editline]9th September 2015[/editline] [QUOTE=Makol;48645034]reposting[/QUOTE] Clonezilla.

[QUOTE=Levelog;48645009]I mean it's a dual core if it's a Pentium. It's not exactly a fantastic processor. Things really benefit from more than a dual core nowadays.[/QUOTE] That's true, it's a prebuild and it came in a deal so I'm pretty sure he was just skimping on prices but I've recommended him an i5 for his socket. [QUOTE=Badballer;48645029]I'm thinking of buying my girlfriend a LG G4 but she has a bad habit of always dropping and breaking her phones. What type of case will work best? I was thinking a nice gel one.[/QUOTE] I've had a good experience with Otterbox cases, they're rubberised but not too bulky as well as having an embossed edge to stop the screen from getting scratched when placed on surfaces.

Yeah, the 3258 is okay for a budget processor, but it really does struggle.

Hey, I could use some help. I did an graphics driver update on Friday. Sunday and today (Wednesday) my PC did this while booting: [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/ADk6JQEl.jpg[/IMG] Both of my monitors were flashing between colorfully-rectangled white and default black. It happend right after Windows 10 boots and when the login screen [I]should [/I]appear. It doesn't :v: My first thought was faulty VRAM or dying GPU in general, but on the other days it booted without issues. I can play games, I can stress the GPU with benchmarks. Temperatures are fine, no problems in general. As I said, Windows boots (I can see the blue Windows flag and the loading circle doing its thing) and instead of the login screen I get that. I got around this by entering BIOS first and exiting. The PC boots up fine after that. So, any ideas? I've heard a lot of complaints about Nvidia drivers on Windows 10, but so far haven't read about someone having similar issues which makes me reluctant to immediately blame Nvidia.

I'm getting stupidly high RAM and Disk useage from a system process with PID 4. I have no idea what's causing it. I read it could be a pagefile error but I don't know what to do. I have RAM heavy work to do and I can't work when some stupid system process is using up all my fucking RAM. [t]http://puu.sh/k5rdf/ea359245d0.png[/t]

What is the basic procedure on what to do if a computer does not start? I had to build a computer for my girlfriends newphew and his budget was 400 Euro so i to get a bit of a cramped up case. Usually a motherboard has a LED that lets you know it has power but this one does not have one, i am also not sure if i properly connected the Power SW to the correct jumper connection.

Just trying jumping the bare board with CPU, heatsink, and 1 stick RAM. Jump the pins with just a screw driver to rule out anything in the case.

I'm eyeing a 4K monitor, an ASUS PB287Q (28 inch). Watched LinusTechTips review it and it seems really good. I'm just worried about GPU temperature increases. I'm on a GTX 980 STRIX 4GB with an idle temp of 35C with dual 1920x1200 (25 inch) monitors. Will the temperature rise be significant? Reason I'm thinking of 4K is because I do a lot of art stuff. 3D and video editing for the most part. Gaming would be nice too but not a priority. [editline]9th September 2015[/editline] I might go with a 28 inch 1440p monitor instead. I'm reading a lot of negatives about 4k at the moment.

[QUOTE=Coyoteze;48646846]I'm eyeing a 4K monitor, an ASUS PB287Q (28 inch). Watched LinusTechTips review it and it seems really good. I'm just worried about GPU temperature increases. I'm on a GTX 980 STRIX 4GB with an idle temp of 35C with dual 1920x1200 (25 inch) monitors. Will the temperature rise be significant? Reason I'm thinking of 4K is because I do a lot of art stuff. 3D and video editing for the most part. Gaming would be nice too but not a priority. [editline]9th September 2015[/editline] I might go with a 28 inch 1440p monitor instead. I'm reading a lot of negatives about 4k at the moment.[/QUOTE] The main limitation with most cards is VRAM. A good SLI rig with 980s (or even 970s) can handle the computational load pretty well, but the limited VRAM/bandwidth will cause the biggest hit. So temps really won't be affected any more than if you played at ultra settings in Witcher 3 or so. Since you may do some gaming, I suggest looking at a couple of the 1440p 144hz IPS monitors out there. They're a bit pricey, but since you were already eyeing a 4K monitor, they're probably in your price range. Just watch out, most are G-Sync/Free-Sync and those are 2X more expensive. Cheapest one I've seen so far is an ASUS 27" on Newegg for $580 on sale, but it's a Free-Sync monitor, which is worthless to Nvidia users atm. Also since you're doing art stuff, pretty much all sub-$1000 4K monitors are TN panels, which have very bad colors and horrible color shifting with pretty much any change in viewing angle from being directly centered with it.

[QUOTE=zombini;48647585]The main limitation with most cards is VRAM. A good SLI rig with 980s (or even 970s) can handle the computational load pretty well, but the limited VRAM/bandwidth will cause the biggest hit. So temps really won't be affected any more than if you played at ultra settings in Witcher 3 or so. Since you may do some gaming, I suggest looking at a couple of the 1440p 144hz IPS monitors out there. They're a bit pricey, but since you were already eyeing a 4K monitor, they're probably in your price range. Just watch out, most are G-Sync/Free-Sync and those are 2X more expensive. Cheapest one I've seen so far is an ASUS 27" on Newegg for $580 on sale, but it's a Free-Sync monitor, which is worthless to Nvidia users atm. Also since you're doing art stuff, pretty much all sub-$1000 4K monitors are TN panels, which have very bad colors and horrible color shifting with pretty much any change in viewing angle from being directly centered with it.[/QUOTE] Umm, you can get IPS 4k screens for $350 nowadays. Very few 4k monitors are over a grand.

I used to back up a lot of data on DVDs when I had a small hard disk. That was years ago, but now I'm starting to find myself wanting to back up stuff again. How reliable are BD-Rs for archival? I'm seeing some reports that some brands' BD-Rs have a high failure rate, either being unable to burn data out of the package or becoming unreadable after only a year. Should I just get a dedicated HDD for backups instead?