The "Quick Questions That Don't Deserve A Thread"...Thread. v5 - Hardware & Software

I'm currently running a r7 260x 2gb, I'm looking at an r7 370 4gb for fallout 4, is that a good enough upgrade or would it be better to just run the 260x and hold that over till Tax season?

What's better option in near future: Get another 970 or get r9 390 and SliCrossify it with 970 if dx12 goes well?

My computer is blue screening on start-up and is relatively new. Should I reset to factory or is there another solution?

[QUOTE=arleitiss;48999400]What's better option in near future: Get another 970 or get r9 390 and SliCrossify it with 970 if dx12 goes well?[/QUOTE] Wait until there's more information on this matter than benchmarks of a few cards with a single prerelease game.

[QUOTE=~Kiwi~v2;48998304]Well if you can go to $329 you can get a rebate of $20 for a [URL="http://pcpartpicker.com/part/msi-video-card-gtx9704gd5toc"]GTX 970[/URL] There's also the MSI AMD R9 [URL="http://pcpartpicker.com/part/msi-video-card-r9390gaming8g"]390[/URL] for $319 with a rebate to bring it down to $299 [editline]28th October 2015[/editline] What is that PSU btw? Got a model number?[/QUOTE] I appreciate all your help already, thank you! So is the 970 a safe bet for something that can run new games well, and will last me for a while?

So I'm hunting around on newegg, and I'm confused by what's different here: [url]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=14-487-088&utm_medium=Email&utm_source=GD102815&cm_mmc=EMC-GD102815-_-index-_-Item-_-14-487-088[/url] [url]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=14-487-136&utm_medium=BehEmail&cm_mmc=EMCPB-102015-_-PB-_-Bluecore-_-Content&utm_campaign=Post_Browsed&obem=kiXnWxl7uKRp8qHjXASnKG3Ec9sWM0dpapcQqRcdyZU%3D&utm_source=Bluecore[/url]

[QUOTE=~Kiwi~v2;48999816]one is super over clocked out of the box one is not[/QUOTE] I'm assuming the $280 is not super overclocked. Although that one has a higher base price at $350. So that's a little confusing. A $20 difference isn't that much, so should I go with the super overclocked one?

[QUOTE=~Kiwi~v2;49000103][img]http://kiwime.me/files/images/st/1dfe22d2-0183-43bf-9f62-1d9d632d3f43.png[/img] [url]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487088[/url] is the one you want[/QUOTE] You rock. I really, really appreciate all of your help. Now to save up for a not shit monitor! [editline]28th October 2015[/editline] I just realized, is it possible for me to use the new 970 and my old 560 Ti at the same time? For more oomph?

[QUOTE=That Ninja;49000131]I just realized, is it possible for me to use the new 970 and my old 560 Ti at the same time? For more oomph?[/QUOTE] No. SLI setups must use two of the same GPU.

[QUOTE=That Ninja;49000131]I just realized, is it possible for me to use the new 970 and my old 560 Ti at the same time? For more oomph?[/QUOTE] Short answer: Not really. Long answer: There are a few, limited ways. The main way to use multiple GPUs for a single application is called SLI by Nvidia (AMD calls it CrossFire). This requires basically identical GPUs, which you do not have. This does require game-specific support, but it's very common, since it's been done since (IIRC) the DirectX 9 days. You can, of course, use the two GPUs to drive different applications on different screens. Have a game running on one monitor hooked up to the 970, and have another game running on another monitor hooked up to the 560 Ti. I really don't know why you'd do that, though. People really only do this when they run out of ports on their first GPU for more monitors, and they usually buy cheap, low-power non-gaming GPUs for that. There are two methods to use different GPUs for the same application. The first is to use the 560 Ti as a pure PhysX card - it does no rendering on its own, it just does physics calculations for the other card to render. This only works with games using Nvidia's PhysX though. And sometimes it's actually slower than just putting all the load on one card, because of all the inefficiencies from synchronization and going over the PCIe bus. The second option is DirectX 12 Explicit Multiadaptor. This is beyond cutting-edge tech right now - not a single released game uses it. And nobody is exactly sure how well it will work yet, nor how many games will actually make use of it (not just any DX12 game will do this - it has to be specifically programmed for explicit multiadaptor). But... if it works, and if your game uses it, it can leverage any DX12-compatible GPUs you have, even ones from different companies. I wouldn't bet on it too heavily, though.

Will an unlocked smart phone from Australia work in the US with a US sim card?

I can get onto safe mode and have disabled most startup programs but the problem persists. I have no backups for an unknown reason and the problem is only in non-safe mode. Error is BAD_POOL_ERROR Technical information: *** STOP: 0x00000019 (0x0000000000000022, 0xFFFFF8A000E00000, 0x000000000000-thisbitiscutoff-, 0x0000000000000000) If there is need for any more information I can give it.

[QUOTE=AtomicSans;48997481]it's going to be a while before your processor becomes obsolete. Quite a while. The rate at which processors improve is slowing to a crawl, at least on the Intel side of things (amd has a fuckton of slack to pick up).[/QUOTE] I mean, I certainly don't need to upgrade, this is more because I want to splash out. Basically if ill see any improvement then ill probably upgrade, it's just a question of if ill see literally any improvement in games, it might be small but I think there should be a small improvement?

[QUOTE=lavacano;48991497]Do you have any non-alphanumeric characters in your (internal) Windows username? If so, that would cause those non-alphanumeric characters to go to your folder's name in "C:\Users", and I once learned the hard way that a lot of things break if you have a folder like "C:\Users\♥Cutesy-Nonsense". While I doubt that you have hearts in your username, you might have something like Æ or ú in there, which would have the same deleterious effects.[/QUOTE] No weird characters in my name, folders worked as "D:\Users\Gabe G" although that space might have done it

So i'm fixing up this old Acer Aspire one and I run into this weird problem at first I just think numlock is on because when i try to type it's giving me numbers where uiopjklm should be so i turned numlock off. Now while it's off and i try to type with those keys nothing happens, so then I find out I have to hold down the FN key to get any letters to show up while hitting those keys. Anyone have any idea as to what's happening here?

[QUOTE=AtomicSans;48997481]it's going to be a while before your processor becomes obsolete. Quite a while. The rate at which processors improve is slowing to a crawl, at least on the Intel side of things (amd has a fuckton of slack to pick up).[/QUOTE] Well, I thought so too - but to a shock, not entirely true - at least in the case of GTA V. Because of some diagnostics for testing a GPU I swapped out my 660 TI with a GTX 970. I did not get a single frame extra. I tried overclocking my cpu and it helped.. Source Engine is still very CPU based too, so thats definetly a factor. But yeah, Intel is focusing on newer technologies and pushing their iGPU to the maximum instead. I really appreciate their iGPU efforts for laptop use. But the heat changes and constant performance improvement is definetly a good thing, and they're pushing more cores into the packages thus creating lower prices.

I should be getting ~240Mbps Down and 24Mbps Up. This is the actual result: [IMG]http://www.speedtest.net/result/4784720922.png[/IMG] Whats a higher possibility of connection being throttled/fucked? 1) I got a fake CAT5E cable from Ebay (50 meters for 15 Euro) It was advertised as CCTV cable (although it's just CAT5E). I am using all 50 meters of it, there is no markings on it but cables are twisted inside. No shielding. 2) Fuck up by ISP. Oh and please don't quote me on Mbps or Mb/s, I have no fucking idea what the difference is :v: All I know: Speedtest should be 240 Units.

[QUOTE=~Kiwi~v2;49002094]i told you this before ages ago replace cable or bitch at isp[/QUOTE] Yeah it's been a while, although I kinda dropped it and thought 80 Units is enough but well I want more.

Out of curiosity: What determines good quality cable from bad? I mean they all seem to be twisted and have connectors on their end. What affects actual speed? Why CAT5 is 100Mbs while CAT5E is like 1Gigabit?

Yes hello hi. How do I make a burger?

[QUOTE=arleitiss;49003502]Out of curiosity: What determines good quality cable from bad? I mean they all seem to be twisted and have connectors on their end. What affects actual speed? Why CAT5 is 100Mbs while CAT5E is like 1Gigabit?[/QUOTE] CAT5 is 100mbit CAT5E is 1000mbit CAT6 is 10gbit

[QUOTE=Cyberuben;49003665]CAT5 is 100mbit CAT5E is 1000mbit CAT6 is 10gbit[/QUOTE] It's a bit more complicated than that.

[QUOTE=arleitiss;49003502]Out of curiosity: What determines good quality cable from bad? I mean they all seem to be twisted and have connectors on their end. What affects actual speed? Why CAT5 is 100Mbs while CAT5E is like 1Gigabit?[/QUOTE] Think about Ethernet as two people shouting at each other from across a room. In a bad cable, the room is full of noisy people, or just piled full of junk so they can't hear each other clearly. In a good cable, the room is empty and has excellent acoustics. Electricity is complicated[citation needed]. You can get all kinds of weird effects - stuff like crosstalk (where a signal in one wire creates a current in another via electromagnetism), skew (where one wire is longer than the other, so signals take just slightly longer to get there) and almost literally a million other things. CAT5 vs CAT5E vs CAT6 is simply a measure of the minimum electrical performance you should get. 100 ohms impedance at 100MHz, 52 picofarads/meter capacitance, even stuff like structural strength are defined. These specifications do not define a speed - they don't even define a protocol. You can send analog video over CAT5 if you have the right equipment on both ends. The protocols define the speed, and also define the minimum quality of cable simply as a way to guarantee they'll only be demanded to work in conditions that they can actually work in. 1000BASE-T ethernet, AKA "Gigabit ethernet", can run just fine on CAT5 cable that actually meets CAT5 specifications (other types of Ethernet can run at gigabit speeds on various types of fiber-optic cable, eg. 1000BASE-LX). I'm really not sure why it's become "common knowledge" that CAT5E or CAT6 is necessary. CAT6 is only necessary for 10GBASE-T "10 Gigabit Ethernet". I suspect cable makers are behind it, to drive sales of the new stuff.

yeah how do I raise a quick $500 dollars? I want to build a pc but I'm also saving up money for a car.

[QUOTE=gman003-main;49004163]Think about Ethernet as two people shouting at each other from across a room. In a bad cable, the room is full of noisy people, or just piled full of junk so they can't hear each other clearly. In a good cable, the room is empty and has excellent acoustics. Electricity is complicated[citation needed]. You can get all kinds of weird effects - stuff like crosstalk (where a signal in one wire creates a current in another via electromagnetism), skew (where one wire is longer than the other, so signals take just slightly longer to get there) and almost literally a million other things. CAT5 vs CAT5E vs CAT6 is simply a measure of the minimum electrical performance you should get. 100 ohms impedance at 100MHz, 52 picofarads/meter capacitance, even stuff like structural strength are defined. These specifications do not define a speed - they don't even define a protocol. You can send analog video over CAT5 if you have the right equipment on both ends. The protocols define the speed, and also define the minimum quality of cable simply as a way to guarantee they'll only be demanded to work in conditions that they can actually work in. 1000BASE-T ethernet, AKA "Gigabit ethernet", can run just fine on CAT5 cable that actually meets CAT5 specifications (other types of Ethernet can run at gigabit speeds on various types of fiber-optic cable, eg. 1000BASE-LX). I'm really not sure why it's become "common knowledge" that CAT5E or CAT6 is necessary. CAT6 is only necessary for 10GBASE-T "10 Gigabit Ethernet". I suspect cable makers are behind it, to drive sales of the new stuff.[/QUOTE] Then can you explain me how two cables I bought at the same time, from the same brand, where one is CAT5 and the other is CAT5E, the CAT5 one never gets speedtests above 100mbit where the CAT5E does? [editline]29th October 2015[/editline] [QUOTE=IJNOMED;49004460]yeah how do I raise a quick $500 dollars? I want to build a pc but I'm also saving up money for a car.[/QUOTE] Learn webdevelopment. It's my main source of income, self employed, and have a hourly rate 7 times higher than my friends who work for a boss.

[QUOTE=Cyberuben;49004487]Then can you explain me how two cables I bought at the same time, from the same brand, where one is CAT5 and the other is CAT5E, the CAT5 one never gets speedtests above 100mbit where the CAT5E does?[/QUOTE] CAT5E is a tighter specification than base CAT5. There's a million things that could cause just enough noise on the line to make CAT5 not work at 1Gbps but still work over CAT5E. Also, there's a lot of companies selling cable that isn't actually certified for what it's being labeled as. There's some stuff sold as "CAT6" that won't even pass muster as CAT5.

What kind of power goes through audio lines, like say, wires in a headphone? I'd imagine the signal itself must be rather weak, and is amplified at the output end, at the speakers or headphones or such? Basically, I'm wiring this audio thing, and I want to know if it will be a problem if I happen to use wires that aren't thick enough.

[QUOTE=~Kiwi~v2;49006505]impedance is a term you want to look up[/QUOTE] Well it's essentially just a switch, I don't plan on anything like that being an issue.

[QUOTE=IJNOMED;49003649]Yes hello hi. How do I make a burger?[/QUOTE] First, you get yourself some ground meat, usually it's beef though chicken and pork also make good burgers in my experience. Each patty needs to be about half an inch thick (any thicker and the inside won't get cooked), however you can of course stack multiple patties (I recommend cheese for sticking). [i]Season your fucking meat[/i], you don't need to go crazy gourmet, just throw some damn salt and pepper into it. Then you put your patties on a skillet (or similar flat pan), and you cook them. Or if you happen to have a grill, you use your grill. You're looking for the whole outside to go from pink to brown (bits might turn grey, that's fine, it's the same thing that puts that skin on top of your soup, but it's not cooked). Ideally, both sides would have some darker brown spots, but if you can't or won't do that, just wait until the juices run clear. You do have to flip them halfway through if you're going to cook them correctly. After you flip them, apply your cheese of choice (cheddar, swiss and pepper jack are my favorites). You apply them while they're on the pan/grill so they melt and go into your burger a bit. Once they're cooked, slap the patties on bread, or hamburger buns if you've got them. Apply condiments (practice safe lunch). Go run to the store and get yourself a bag of chips and a beer or a soda, according to preference and whether you're of the legal drinking age.

Is it possible that Spotify blocks some songs for me at home? When I am at work, if I search for Circle of Alchemists, it has hundreds of tracks available, if I search at home - only 5. Workplace internet connection comes out in UK (I think it goes through series of proxies) and comes out in London, I wasn't aware spotify has music restricted to countries? anyway I can listen to all music without restrictions? Like google music, do they have restrictions too?